Mercedes W124 E300D estate - progress, or not...
Discussion
Thanks.
I'm feeling a little disgruntled this afternoon. The box was advertised for £360 plus shipping. I put in a slightly cheeky offer for £300 plus shipping, which was promptly refused. While that's fine, and the refusal was on the basis that he's now VAT registered, the pricing has been upped to £420.
I'll ponder.
I'm feeling a little disgruntled this afternoon. The box was advertised for £360 plus shipping. I put in a slightly cheeky offer for £300 plus shipping, which was promptly refused. While that's fine, and the refusal was on the basis that he's now VAT registered, the pricing has been upped to £420.
I'll ponder.
A few things done today.
First of all, the manky old number plate light lenses have been swapped for nice shiny new ones.
Barring some fiddling, a nice easy job.
I tried unscrewing the trim that the lenses sit in, to tidy up the rust bubbles, but the trim didn't loosen when the screws were removed so I'll come back to it.
Next up, I used the new-to-me ramps for the first time to get the front upwards:
They're very useful, albeit a bit of an effort to do. By taking the bottom of the tyres to almost knee height, access under the car is made much easier. Of anyone in the Reading area would like to borrow them, ping me.
I was hoping that the jerky shifts would be due to the vacuum modulator and, if that can be resolved, the car would be more drivable until the gearbox gives up the ghost. So the undertrays came off, and I drove underneath.
First off was to put threadlock onto the bolts holding the steering damper - I didn't do it at the time. That went smoothly enough.
The modulator.... Well. The vacuum line is attached okay, and the modulator looks okay albeit that's not proof of anything. I don't (yet) know where the vacuum line goes off to, so I haven't been able to check (yet) that it's in good condition and plumbed in.
The sheath around the - I presume - wiring to the box is looking past its best.
And this exhaust clamp isn't looking very clampy.
My Man has cable ties the front edges of the lower front wheelarch trims, and now they're not flapping around I'm not getting any crunchy noises. They do tidy up the arches nicely, so it's a worthwhile mod.
Lastly, I found out that one of my neighbours is a currently-underutilised airline pilot. He works on cars as a sideline, and has a good daily rate. I imagine there'll be more to come from The Pilot.
First of all, the manky old number plate light lenses have been swapped for nice shiny new ones.
Barring some fiddling, a nice easy job.
I tried unscrewing the trim that the lenses sit in, to tidy up the rust bubbles, but the trim didn't loosen when the screws were removed so I'll come back to it.
Next up, I used the new-to-me ramps for the first time to get the front upwards:
They're very useful, albeit a bit of an effort to do. By taking the bottom of the tyres to almost knee height, access under the car is made much easier. Of anyone in the Reading area would like to borrow them, ping me.
I was hoping that the jerky shifts would be due to the vacuum modulator and, if that can be resolved, the car would be more drivable until the gearbox gives up the ghost. So the undertrays came off, and I drove underneath.
First off was to put threadlock onto the bolts holding the steering damper - I didn't do it at the time. That went smoothly enough.
The modulator.... Well. The vacuum line is attached okay, and the modulator looks okay albeit that's not proof of anything. I don't (yet) know where the vacuum line goes off to, so I haven't been able to check (yet) that it's in good condition and plumbed in.
The sheath around the - I presume - wiring to the box is looking past its best.
And this exhaust clamp isn't looking very clampy.
My Man has cable ties the front edges of the lower front wheelarch trims, and now they're not flapping around I'm not getting any crunchy noises. They do tidy up the arches nicely, so it's a worthwhile mod.
Lastly, I found out that one of my neighbours is a currently-underutilised airline pilot. He works on cars as a sideline, and has a good daily rate. I imagine there'll be more to come from The Pilot.
Great - thanks.
One other thing for me to note here, because it'll soon fall out of my head with the way work is at present: when under the car at the weekend, I noted the Behr label on the underside of the radiator is dated 2011.
...and a question: what are the symptoms of blown rear suspension spheres? The back has been lower than the front for some time, and reading r129sl's thread has me wondering. Thanks.
One other thing for me to note here, because it'll soon fall out of my head with the way work is at present: when under the car at the weekend, I noted the Behr label on the underside of the radiator is dated 2011.
...and a question: what are the symptoms of blown rear suspension spheres? The back has been lower than the front for some time, and reading r129sl's thread has me wondering. Thanks.
Sounds like the springs are worth looking at, then. Thanks for the pointer.
W201_190E has provided some unexpected and, to me, staggering information about this car: from dealership work records, the car drove >83,000 miles.
In its first year!
My mind is boggled. Thanks again for the information.
W201_190E has provided some unexpected and, to me, staggering information about this car: from dealership work records, the car drove >83,000 miles.
In its first year!
My mind is boggled. Thanks again for the information.
Genuine MB brake pedal rubber bought - £6.50 on eBay. Why some people try to get nearly £15 for a well-used one is beyond me.
The car was up on my ramps for the last week, just in case I wanted to have another look underneath (and because it's a little stressful to drive it onto them). I ended up not winding the ramps skywards this weekend, but the extra front end height made looking at a couple of things easier.
Having looked at the gearbox end of the vacuum modulator setup, I thought it was worth looking topside. Realistically, that meant whipping off the intake manifold crossover pipe to look underneath. A bit fiddly, but I've done it often enough for it not to be much of an issue. Even after I disconnected (what I think is) the EGR valve from the crossover pipe, and dropped the gasket onto the undertray.
No smoking gun there. As far as I can tell, the other end of the vacuum line which goes into the modulator ends up at a fitting under the IM, near or into a green jobbie whose purpose I've now forgotten but which I'll look to replace as a just-in-case.
No obvious disconnected pipe found, I reassembled and checked out the vacuum pump itself. I've recently heard some worrying stories of what can happen when these go pop.
I think mine is the okay(we) version, but may look to get hold of one so it can be swapped in for piece of mind. I believe it's a Pierburg 7.20607.74.0.
I also made the rear door cards less completely detached from the doors. They're not on properly - not by a long shot - but they're closer to where they need to be.
Then I took the car out for a drive, to see if my fiddling a had made the box shift more smoothly.
Um.... No.
It was worse!
After a few miles, I drove under the bonnet again, as I figured the very harsh shifting was a sign of proper vacuum disconnection. Sure enough, a line I've managed to pull out before was disconnected near the air intake.
(The lower one, reconnected in this pic)
And the result? Not convinced it's better.
The car was up on my ramps for the last week, just in case I wanted to have another look underneath (and because it's a little stressful to drive it onto them). I ended up not winding the ramps skywards this weekend, but the extra front end height made looking at a couple of things easier.
Having looked at the gearbox end of the vacuum modulator setup, I thought it was worth looking topside. Realistically, that meant whipping off the intake manifold crossover pipe to look underneath. A bit fiddly, but I've done it often enough for it not to be much of an issue. Even after I disconnected (what I think is) the EGR valve from the crossover pipe, and dropped the gasket onto the undertray.
No smoking gun there. As far as I can tell, the other end of the vacuum line which goes into the modulator ends up at a fitting under the IM, near or into a green jobbie whose purpose I've now forgotten but which I'll look to replace as a just-in-case.
No obvious disconnected pipe found, I reassembled and checked out the vacuum pump itself. I've recently heard some worrying stories of what can happen when these go pop.
I think mine is the okay(we) version, but may look to get hold of one so it can be swapped in for piece of mind. I believe it's a Pierburg 7.20607.74.0.
I also made the rear door cards less completely detached from the doors. They're not on properly - not by a long shot - but they're closer to where they need to be.
Then I took the car out for a drive, to see if my fiddling a had made the box shift more smoothly.
Um.... No.
It was worse!
After a few miles, I drove under the bonnet again, as I figured the very harsh shifting was a sign of proper vacuum disconnection. Sure enough, a line I've managed to pull out before was disconnected near the air intake.
(The lower one, reconnected in this pic)
And the result? Not convinced it's better.
I haven't yet gone chasing water ingress into the boot area, buy the side windows seem to be the regular culprit.
Parts availability for this 25+ year old car are surprisingly good. Dependant, of course, on how original you want to go and how much you want to pay. Some items now seem to be NLA from Mercedes itself - the vented front wing apparently being an example - but for the most part there's a lot of spare parts support for these cars.
If you're looking to take one on, it's worth reading up about the shape-specific and engine-specific foibles that combination has, and either keeping an eye out for that work already having been done or expect sometime to pay to get the work done.
As an example, the OM606-powered estate like this car will likely at some point have:
- Rusty front outer & inner wings;
- Water ingress;
- Engine wiring harness problems;
- Glow plug seized into the head;
- Rear subframe (front) mounting points rust.
My car has had all of these issues (and more!) but I forgive it when I'm out for a drive and racking up the miles.
Parts availability for this 25+ year old car are surprisingly good. Dependant, of course, on how original you want to go and how much you want to pay. Some items now seem to be NLA from Mercedes itself - the vented front wing apparently being an example - but for the most part there's a lot of spare parts support for these cars.
If you're looking to take one on, it's worth reading up about the shape-specific and engine-specific foibles that combination has, and either keeping an eye out for that work already having been done or expect sometime to pay to get the work done.
As an example, the OM606-powered estate like this car will likely at some point have:
- Rusty front outer & inner wings;
- Water ingress;
- Engine wiring harness problems;
- Glow plug seized into the head;
- Rear subframe (front) mounting points rust.
My car has had all of these issues (and more!) but I forgive it when I'm out for a drive and racking up the miles.
I'll be seeing my mechanic (yet) again next week, and I'll try to remember to ask.
There's been some good news with the car recently and, amongst the doom and gloom of this year, it's much appreciated.
Firstly, I have a replacement gearbox waiting to go into the car. I found, via FB, a guy with various W124 bits including the right flavour of gearbox (722.435) and, although it's been sitting in his home garage for a while and has already been in a couple of cars, I'm hoping it'll be a good one. As you would with an entire secondhand car, you're buying the seller as much as the car and I'd say he was ideal: an older gentleman, keen on old Mercedes diesels specifically, who'd taken the fully working engine and box (plus ancillaries) out of an estate with dissolved rear subframe, fitted it into a coupe and ran around in that happily until the interior water ingress and offers on parts meant he broke it for a profit. He still has an engine, a broken gearbox from another similar car he broke, various diffs, exhausts, a W221 parked outside along with a W210.... You get the idea. I agreed £100 for the box, with torque converter, and I'm gathering together some other bits to change while there (vacuum lines, modulator etc). I'm pondering the idea of the Superior K722A-D spring kit, as it'd be easier to do when the box isn't in the air and has been full of fluid, but I'm not sure I should change anything before knowing how if shifts as-is.
My current box seems to be losing health by the day - noise levels seem to be going up, along (I think) with vibration levels at 70, and reverse seems to be becoming balky. I'm waiting for fluid to arrive (I've ordered some Dexron IID - figured that any mild price premium is worth paying if this box resolved my problem), and I ordered the other bits from my local MB dealer in the end. I'm planning to clean up the outside of the box, not doing anything else (unless someone says there's anything worth doing before it goes in) and trying to get it fitted this side of NY.
And we have a shiny new MOT! Went in yesterday, Man noticed a weep from a hydraulic line so nipped it up....and it failed for a weep from that joint, which was loose by the time it got to the MOT centre a mile away. Odd. Nipped up again, cleaned again, and passed with an advisory for "engine cover fitted". I'll take that!
I need to properly refit the rear door cards - they're not fitting right at the window ledge - and there's always more to do with this car, but resolving the gearbox and getting a new MOT have really helped. I'm now chasing down the outstanding bits I'd need to add cruise controls - got the actuator from Box Man for £40 (along with a set of fifteen-holes for the same), so 'just' the wiring harness, stalk, ECU to go, I think.
There's been some good news with the car recently and, amongst the doom and gloom of this year, it's much appreciated.
Firstly, I have a replacement gearbox waiting to go into the car. I found, via FB, a guy with various W124 bits including the right flavour of gearbox (722.435) and, although it's been sitting in his home garage for a while and has already been in a couple of cars, I'm hoping it'll be a good one. As you would with an entire secondhand car, you're buying the seller as much as the car and I'd say he was ideal: an older gentleman, keen on old Mercedes diesels specifically, who'd taken the fully working engine and box (plus ancillaries) out of an estate with dissolved rear subframe, fitted it into a coupe and ran around in that happily until the interior water ingress and offers on parts meant he broke it for a profit. He still has an engine, a broken gearbox from another similar car he broke, various diffs, exhausts, a W221 parked outside along with a W210.... You get the idea. I agreed £100 for the box, with torque converter, and I'm gathering together some other bits to change while there (vacuum lines, modulator etc). I'm pondering the idea of the Superior K722A-D spring kit, as it'd be easier to do when the box isn't in the air and has been full of fluid, but I'm not sure I should change anything before knowing how if shifts as-is.
My current box seems to be losing health by the day - noise levels seem to be going up, along (I think) with vibration levels at 70, and reverse seems to be becoming balky. I'm waiting for fluid to arrive (I've ordered some Dexron IID - figured that any mild price premium is worth paying if this box resolved my problem), and I ordered the other bits from my local MB dealer in the end. I'm planning to clean up the outside of the box, not doing anything else (unless someone says there's anything worth doing before it goes in) and trying to get it fitted this side of NY.
And we have a shiny new MOT! Went in yesterday, Man noticed a weep from a hydraulic line so nipped it up....and it failed for a weep from that joint, which was loose by the time it got to the MOT centre a mile away. Odd. Nipped up again, cleaned again, and passed with an advisory for "engine cover fitted". I'll take that!
I need to properly refit the rear door cards - they're not fitting right at the window ledge - and there's always more to do with this car, but resolving the gearbox and getting a new MOT have really helped. I'm now chasing down the outstanding bits I'd need to add cruise controls - got the actuator from Box Man for £40 (along with a set of fifteen-holes for the same), so 'just' the wiring harness, stalk, ECU to go, I think.
A bit of light fettling today, a question, and perhaps a realisation.
Question first: there's a linkage attached to the throttle linkage spaghetti that drops down through the inlet manifold. Does it go to the fuel pump, or does it go Somewhere Else? I believe the cruise control actuator lives down that direction too. I'm sure I'm not that well-endowed already....am I? The car has had some changes in the past so, although there's no stalk or cutout in the steering column shroud, I'm curious as to whether the other end of this linkage goes somewhere cruise-related. I'm now thinking not...?
The realisation: I think the rear springs are the wrong ones. Here's why: the back end of the car has looked low for a while, in as much as the tyre-to-arch gap is less on the back, but the car has recently passed an MOT so I doubt the springs have snapped or anything similar. The ride isn't bouncy, so it seems like the spheres haven't blown (thanks for the pointer on that). I've now picked up some new springs and the three-dot pads, thinking that that should improve things. But....when I was talking to my Man on Thursday and mentioned new springs, he said he thought he'd put new ones on last year. And well he might, but the car has had a full seven-seat leather interior put in at some stage, and that will have added weight over the rear wheels. When I was working out the part numbers, I took that into account along with the other options, and plumped for the thickest spring pads in case I ever add a tow bar. Those two options alone add 14 points to the tally, so the ones he replaced last year (if he did) may simply be too short for the running order the car is in. In any case, at some point we'll sling these new parts on the car and see where we're at.
Shiny springs:
I snapped up some scuttle plastics a few weeks back for £15 delivered. They were (and, despite taking a bath, kinda still are) properly mucky, but they give me an idea as to how they go together and may be useful as spares if not a wholesale replacement.
Here they are pieced together. Not sure where the other two bits (top of bonnet) are supposed to live, and my car is currently bunged up with silicone in an effort to reduce the ingress, so I'm not going to take it apart until I have some confidence that I know what goes where.
I have nicked the rubber seal to replace the one on my car that had been cut short to match up with the missing driver's side scuttle piece. The new-to-me seal is workable for now, but I'll probably look to replace at some point as it's better but not great. I'm not aiming for perfection; right now, function is more important.
Having looked at the new central piece, the one on the car has definitely been mucked about with - the two larger grille sections are loose on my car but seemingly joined (plastic welded?) To the main panel on the spare piece.
The car still isn't running right from cold. My next culprit is the injectors. I've now got some washers to replace under the injectors, so the next step on that job will be to get the injectors out for refurb, then refit and see where we are. I suspect one isn't functioning right: it's stumbling until warm, with some smoke out the back. The car does have a slight rock to it sometimes when warm, which maybe points to engine mounts (worth doing when the gearbox is off?), but the cold behaviour points to injectors in my head.
As it were.
Oh, and I've grabbed a NOS cruise control stalk from Starpartz for £50 delivered. Looks like the harnesses are available at not-stupid cost, just just the ECU and ancillaries (brake light switch, some kind of speedo signal?) to go with that project.
Oh, and I need to change the central air vent for one I've got waiting, as soon as the wrinkle paint arrives. Which means pulling the cluster (got the hooks, but may decide to change the bulbs while out) and the passenger airbag. Not a job I'm hugely looking forward to, but needs to be done!
Question first: there's a linkage attached to the throttle linkage spaghetti that drops down through the inlet manifold. Does it go to the fuel pump, or does it go Somewhere Else? I believe the cruise control actuator lives down that direction too. I'm sure I'm not that well-endowed already....am I? The car has had some changes in the past so, although there's no stalk or cutout in the steering column shroud, I'm curious as to whether the other end of this linkage goes somewhere cruise-related. I'm now thinking not...?
The realisation: I think the rear springs are the wrong ones. Here's why: the back end of the car has looked low for a while, in as much as the tyre-to-arch gap is less on the back, but the car has recently passed an MOT so I doubt the springs have snapped or anything similar. The ride isn't bouncy, so it seems like the spheres haven't blown (thanks for the pointer on that). I've now picked up some new springs and the three-dot pads, thinking that that should improve things. But....when I was talking to my Man on Thursday and mentioned new springs, he said he thought he'd put new ones on last year. And well he might, but the car has had a full seven-seat leather interior put in at some stage, and that will have added weight over the rear wheels. When I was working out the part numbers, I took that into account along with the other options, and plumped for the thickest spring pads in case I ever add a tow bar. Those two options alone add 14 points to the tally, so the ones he replaced last year (if he did) may simply be too short for the running order the car is in. In any case, at some point we'll sling these new parts on the car and see where we're at.
Shiny springs:
I snapped up some scuttle plastics a few weeks back for £15 delivered. They were (and, despite taking a bath, kinda still are) properly mucky, but they give me an idea as to how they go together and may be useful as spares if not a wholesale replacement.
Here they are pieced together. Not sure where the other two bits (top of bonnet) are supposed to live, and my car is currently bunged up with silicone in an effort to reduce the ingress, so I'm not going to take it apart until I have some confidence that I know what goes where.
I have nicked the rubber seal to replace the one on my car that had been cut short to match up with the missing driver's side scuttle piece. The new-to-me seal is workable for now, but I'll probably look to replace at some point as it's better but not great. I'm not aiming for perfection; right now, function is more important.
Having looked at the new central piece, the one on the car has definitely been mucked about with - the two larger grille sections are loose on my car but seemingly joined (plastic welded?) To the main panel on the spare piece.
The car still isn't running right from cold. My next culprit is the injectors. I've now got some washers to replace under the injectors, so the next step on that job will be to get the injectors out for refurb, then refit and see where we are. I suspect one isn't functioning right: it's stumbling until warm, with some smoke out the back. The car does have a slight rock to it sometimes when warm, which maybe points to engine mounts (worth doing when the gearbox is off?), but the cold behaviour points to injectors in my head.
As it were.
Oh, and I've grabbed a NOS cruise control stalk from Starpartz for £50 delivered. Looks like the harnesses are available at not-stupid cost, just just the ECU and ancillaries (brake light switch, some kind of speedo signal?) to go with that project.
Oh, and I need to change the central air vent for one I've got waiting, as soon as the wrinkle paint arrives. Which means pulling the cluster (got the hooks, but may decide to change the bulbs while out) and the passenger airbag. Not a job I'm hugely looking forward to, but needs to be done!
I changed the oil and filter a few months (a few hundred miles, at the 2020 & dodgy gearbox rate) ago, and they were also changed last year. I am trying to take it gently with the car, 3k rpm changes notwithstanding.
I've had a couple of chats with my local MB parts department recently. Rear loadspace seals are £120odd at the moment so, when the gearbox work is done, I'll look to get the seals. I don't think the ledges are terrible but they will need to be done as there looks to be minor leakage on both sides, and one 2" crusty section of metal inside one of the seals.
MB no longer make the gearbox wiring harnesses - not much of a surprise - but they may be on the list to get redone on my car at some point. I suspect they may not be in the best condition but - touch wood - seem to be working fine. Being disturbed during the box change might change that, though.
I've bought a few manuals & videos from MercedesSource over the weekend, which gave so far proven helpful. One realisation is that, as far as I can tell, mg car is missing half its blower casing! I know my Man has put a shield over something, I think the fan motor, because it was open to the elements. And I've had water ingress problems at the front. Given the state of the scuttle plastics and with the other observations in mind, that seems to be the missing link. I think the part number might be 0008300252 but MB came up with a blank on that, so I may check in with them when I collect the parts I have on order.
Right then. Plans are afoot - car is booked for the gearbox swap next Wednesday (which will be the fourth car trip to the Man in less than three weeks - bargefleet mechanical planning at its best).
I have the replacement gearbox & torque converter.
The fluid should arrive in time.
I should be collecting the vacuum modulator, vacuum pipework (hard and rubber lines & junctions) from MB on Friday.
I've got the transmission mount and front flex disk.
I also have questions:
- Aside from giving the outside of the box a quick clean, it there anything else I should do to the box before install day?
- Is there anything I should check on the new box before we start? It's empty of fluid, so I don't know if it's feasible to check it rotates without graunching (?)
- Would it be worth replacing the front propshaft centering bush while the prop is disconnected?
Any & all tips are welcomed.
Thanks.
I have the replacement gearbox & torque converter.
The fluid should arrive in time.
I should be collecting the vacuum modulator, vacuum pipework (hard and rubber lines & junctions) from MB on Friday.
I've got the transmission mount and front flex disk.
I also have questions:
- Aside from giving the outside of the box a quick clean, it there anything else I should do to the box before install day?
- Is there anything I should check on the new box before we start? It's empty of fluid, so I don't know if it's feasible to check it rotates without graunching (?)
- Would it be worth replacing the front propshaft centering bush while the prop is disconnected?
Any & all tips are welcomed.
Thanks.
I was having a chat with my Man on a similar topic yesterday. He was horrified when I mentioned that the torque converter is separate from the box on the one I've picked up, and he talked about the seal between the two.
As far as I understand it (but my knowledge is limited), the TC and box interface differently on these boxes to the norm. That's evidenced by the drain plug on the TC, which to me implies that it's not the same closed loop as the rest of the box. I could easily be wrong, though.
Here's the diagram of the central spinny bit of the box. I guess the seal (#20) would be the most likely seal if there is one...?
As far as I understand it (but my knowledge is limited), the TC and box interface differently on these boxes to the norm. That's evidenced by the drain plug on the TC, which to me implies that it's not the same closed loop as the rest of the box. I could easily be wrong, though.
Here's the diagram of the central spinny bit of the box. I guess the seal (#20) would be the most likely seal if there is one...?
Thank you kindly - I've got this orange seal on order with MB for collection tomorrow, along with the dipstick O ring I forgot to order.
Shame I forgot the centering bush - still not sure if it's worth bothering to replace, the MB dealer will get it in time but it means another hour round trip, and I'm very time-poor at the moment. (Not the only kind of poor, to be honest!)
Here are some of the bits ready to go. This was before I went to get the first & second round of bits from the dealer.....
...and the old box is definitely on its last legs, as the MB gentlemen had to push me out of the parking space! It would appear that the box has gone far enough that reversing up hill with another gearbox in the back was too much for it. A little embarrassing....
Anyway: gearbox and TC are tucked up safely with The Man. Other bits will be in the boot when I drop it off on Tuesday (assuming the car will reverse out of its current space). Fingers crossed it won't be too hard a job to swap and, more importantly, to set up and get running smoothly.
Blackpuddin: your glow plug question. From memory, my Man did the disassembly to ease access, then got Thread Doctor (https://threaddoctorservicesltd.co.uk/) to come and remove the plugs themselves. It wasn't the cheapest thing I've had done but not the most expensive either - I think it was around £80 per plug plus the labour to expose them and build back up. The TD was quite experienced with this engine type, I believe, so told my Man what to remove so he could Milk Tray Man in to the rescue. Hope this helps - let me know if you're in the south east and would like my Man's details.
Shame I forgot the centering bush - still not sure if it's worth bothering to replace, the MB dealer will get it in time but it means another hour round trip, and I'm very time-poor at the moment. (Not the only kind of poor, to be honest!)
Here are some of the bits ready to go. This was before I went to get the first & second round of bits from the dealer.....
...and the old box is definitely on its last legs, as the MB gentlemen had to push me out of the parking space! It would appear that the box has gone far enough that reversing up hill with another gearbox in the back was too much for it. A little embarrassing....
Anyway: gearbox and TC are tucked up safely with The Man. Other bits will be in the boot when I drop it off on Tuesday (assuming the car will reverse out of its current space). Fingers crossed it won't be too hard a job to swap and, more importantly, to set up and get running smoothly.
Blackpuddin: your glow plug question. From memory, my Man did the disassembly to ease access, then got Thread Doctor (https://threaddoctorservicesltd.co.uk/) to come and remove the plugs themselves. It wasn't the cheapest thing I've had done but not the most expensive either - I think it was around £80 per plug plus the labour to expose them and build back up. The TD was quite experienced with this engine type, I believe, so told my Man what to remove so he could Milk Tray Man in to the rescue. Hope this helps - let me know if you're in the south east and would like my Man's details.
Some substantial changes, and a one-step-back situation.
Where to start?
So. Gearbox was done, and relatively painlessly from the sound of it. Some bolts were hard to get to, but otherwise the changing over of the boxes wasn't too bad. The Man didn't use all the parts I supplied - not sure why - so I have the vacuum lines, connectors & dashpot still to do at some point.
Is it better? Yes....and no.
When I arrived to collect the car, The Man had finished for the day but his son talked me through the job. He'd tried to adjust the gearbox so it was shifting at the right points, but had only got so far. I set off to head home, and the adjustment wasn't even close!
These boxes use vacuum - via the modulator on the side of the box - to control the shift harshness, and a bowden cable connected to the throttle linkage to determine the shift timing.
My wanderings to juggle cars meant that I had some time while walking to collect the car to determine that the cable was probably not right, which is why my brief drive was so odd. I got to the car and, sure enough, the cable adjuster was wound out a good inch. I wound it in half an inch, and the shift timing is now there or thereabouts. I'll have an incremental fiddle with it from there, but it's pretty good now.
What isn't so good is the harshness of the shifts. Unfortunately, they took the modulator housing off the old box, so I can't compare, but the adjustment on the new modulator on the new box isn't right. I've had the car in the air and wound the modulator back (turned the adjuster knob anti-clockwise to its stop), but I think I need to take the adjuster know off and wind the inner adjuster further back before refitting the knob. I'm just not sure if the knob is single-use and I should get another before making a start.
Annoying, but it'll get there.
But the car still has driveline noise!! Similar to before, not identical, but strongly there. There's also a noticeable roughness about 60-70mph. I mentioned the former to the Man, who commented that the diff has lots of play. Not sure why he hasn't mentioned it before, but that's the next place to look, I guess.
Frustrating.
I've managed to source a replacement secondhand diff for £100, but the current restrictions mean I'm not willing to get it until things settle down. Fingers crossed it's a decent one. I presume the alternatives are wheel bearings or propshaft...?
The old gearbox doesn't have any play in the output shaft, I'm told, but its problems with going into reverse means there's a problem somewhere in there. Interestingly, it's not the original box - not only had someone been in there before, the serial number is different to the one originally fitted. Who knows how many miles it has on it.
Moving on for now, I did a couple of jobs earlier in the week that I'll post when I have the photos, but I've changed the suspension fluid today. Nice easy job - as r129sl says, the hardest bit is putting the rocks in the boot. In my instance, the rocks were the old box and my ramps.
Nice straight-forward job (once one of the wise men of the E300D scene tells you what to do. Old fluid was a bit dark; new fluid is a nice pale straw colour. I believe heat will darken it down, but three litres of new fluid won't do any harm.
And then I'm amassing some bits for next year:
I'll need to get the looms and sundries for the cruise control retrofit, but a working brain and NOS lever is a good start, to go with the actuator I've got tucked away.
Outside temperature setup is, I'm told, complete aside from a couple of screws. I'll have to work out how to fit it, but it came with wiring instructions. A steal at £50 delivered.
Where to start?
So. Gearbox was done, and relatively painlessly from the sound of it. Some bolts were hard to get to, but otherwise the changing over of the boxes wasn't too bad. The Man didn't use all the parts I supplied - not sure why - so I have the vacuum lines, connectors & dashpot still to do at some point.
Is it better? Yes....and no.
When I arrived to collect the car, The Man had finished for the day but his son talked me through the job. He'd tried to adjust the gearbox so it was shifting at the right points, but had only got so far. I set off to head home, and the adjustment wasn't even close!
These boxes use vacuum - via the modulator on the side of the box - to control the shift harshness, and a bowden cable connected to the throttle linkage to determine the shift timing.
My wanderings to juggle cars meant that I had some time while walking to collect the car to determine that the cable was probably not right, which is why my brief drive was so odd. I got to the car and, sure enough, the cable adjuster was wound out a good inch. I wound it in half an inch, and the shift timing is now there or thereabouts. I'll have an incremental fiddle with it from there, but it's pretty good now.
What isn't so good is the harshness of the shifts. Unfortunately, they took the modulator housing off the old box, so I can't compare, but the adjustment on the new modulator on the new box isn't right. I've had the car in the air and wound the modulator back (turned the adjuster knob anti-clockwise to its stop), but I think I need to take the adjuster know off and wind the inner adjuster further back before refitting the knob. I'm just not sure if the knob is single-use and I should get another before making a start.
Annoying, but it'll get there.
But the car still has driveline noise!! Similar to before, not identical, but strongly there. There's also a noticeable roughness about 60-70mph. I mentioned the former to the Man, who commented that the diff has lots of play. Not sure why he hasn't mentioned it before, but that's the next place to look, I guess.
Frustrating.
I've managed to source a replacement secondhand diff for £100, but the current restrictions mean I'm not willing to get it until things settle down. Fingers crossed it's a decent one. I presume the alternatives are wheel bearings or propshaft...?
The old gearbox doesn't have any play in the output shaft, I'm told, but its problems with going into reverse means there's a problem somewhere in there. Interestingly, it's not the original box - not only had someone been in there before, the serial number is different to the one originally fitted. Who knows how many miles it has on it.
Moving on for now, I did a couple of jobs earlier in the week that I'll post when I have the photos, but I've changed the suspension fluid today. Nice easy job - as r129sl says, the hardest bit is putting the rocks in the boot. In my instance, the rocks were the old box and my ramps.
Nice straight-forward job (once one of the wise men of the E300D scene tells you what to do. Old fluid was a bit dark; new fluid is a nice pale straw colour. I believe heat will darken it down, but three litres of new fluid won't do any harm.
And then I'm amassing some bits for next year:
I'll need to get the looms and sundries for the cruise control retrofit, but a working brain and NOS lever is a good start, to go with the actuator I've got tucked away.
Outside temperature setup is, I'm told, complete aside from a couple of screws. I'll have to work out how to fit it, but it came with wiring instructions. A steal at £50 delivered.
A couple of other little jobs done, and a quick win.
Job 1: throttle pedal clip. Old and new:
Job 2: EGR valve gasket. Likewise:
I am still noticing some wisps of smoke from the exhaust manifold area on startup. Don't think it's water evaporating off the exhaust. I wonder what it is.
One observation before today's quick win: the engine isn't entirely happy. Starts up fine, then the missing becomes noticeable around 30secs in, and the engine rocks until things settle down. I hope that it's an injector that isn't doing its thing properly until the engine is warm enough that it doesn't matter. I will be looking to get the injectors refurbed in the new year, and I'm planning to order replacement engine mounts once Autodoc has a good discount on.
And the quick win: I suspect the Man Jnr mucked about with the throttle adjuster when he was mucking about with the box adjuster. The box cable was too tight; the throttle has gone back to normal with an extra turn to tighten it up. Interesting how that turn of the adjuster - what's that, 1mm of travel? - resulted in the engine feeling lazier, reluctant to get going, and down on power. Normal service is resumed. Yay!
Just the bad noises to sort out. And clean the interior again. And the paintwork. And...
Job 1: throttle pedal clip. Old and new:
Job 2: EGR valve gasket. Likewise:
I am still noticing some wisps of smoke from the exhaust manifold area on startup. Don't think it's water evaporating off the exhaust. I wonder what it is.
One observation before today's quick win: the engine isn't entirely happy. Starts up fine, then the missing becomes noticeable around 30secs in, and the engine rocks until things settle down. I hope that it's an injector that isn't doing its thing properly until the engine is warm enough that it doesn't matter. I will be looking to get the injectors refurbed in the new year, and I'm planning to order replacement engine mounts once Autodoc has a good discount on.
And the quick win: I suspect the Man Jnr mucked about with the throttle adjuster when he was mucking about with the box adjuster. The box cable was too tight; the throttle has gone back to normal with an extra turn to tighten it up. Interesting how that turn of the adjuster - what's that, 1mm of travel? - resulted in the engine feeling lazier, reluctant to get going, and down on power. Normal service is resumed. Yay!
Just the bad noises to sort out. And clean the interior again. And the paintwork. And...
Not much has been happening with the car itself recently - work has been hectic, plus lockdown, but I've been taking it for a little spin every now and again. I love driving this car, even with its faults. Even with the glaring faults. And I don't even mean the bad paintwork or the hole in the wing.
But anyway.
I've been steadily amassing bits and pieces, and am hoping to get it booked in fairly soon to get some stuff done. I'm considering enlisting the help of Wayne Gates this time, as I think the car would benefit from some specialist knowledge and I haven't been entirely enamoured of other specialists as of yet (just because I think they're too busy to do more than the obvious job).
So.
We have:
- A replacement secondhand, hopefully working better, centre vent. It'd be nice to be able to turn off the fresh air flow, albeit that's most important in the season that's just gone.
- Engine mounts.
- The rear wheel closing panels from a coupe. I'm hoping these can be persuaded to fit and cover the mud traps in front of the rear wheels, or used as inspiration for something home-brewed.
- More bits of below-windscreen trim. One is the cover for the fan, which I suspect isn't there; the other is the piece that directs the air flow from the grilles around the wiper arm down to the fan area. I suspect this isn't there either: when turning in the fan, I often get a gust of damp air onto the windscreen, so I think water is collecting in that area.
- A Hirschmann 6000KE aerial, which doesn't work. I nabbed it on eBay for twenty-something quid as not working, suspected dodgy control board (the black box on top). I then bought a tested & working control board from a seller in the States. Can anyone give me any tips as to how to test the aerial before bolting it in? The one in the car has stopped working and has a rat's nest of wires around it, so it'd be good to know that the new aerial operates before going any further. I'll need to dog out the MB rubber, but that'll seal up another possible water ingress point.
Still working on the diff...
But anyway.
I've been steadily amassing bits and pieces, and am hoping to get it booked in fairly soon to get some stuff done. I'm considering enlisting the help of Wayne Gates this time, as I think the car would benefit from some specialist knowledge and I haven't been entirely enamoured of other specialists as of yet (just because I think they're too busy to do more than the obvious job).
So.
We have:
- A replacement secondhand, hopefully working better, centre vent. It'd be nice to be able to turn off the fresh air flow, albeit that's most important in the season that's just gone.
- Engine mounts.
- The rear wheel closing panels from a coupe. I'm hoping these can be persuaded to fit and cover the mud traps in front of the rear wheels, or used as inspiration for something home-brewed.
- More bits of below-windscreen trim. One is the cover for the fan, which I suspect isn't there; the other is the piece that directs the air flow from the grilles around the wiper arm down to the fan area. I suspect this isn't there either: when turning in the fan, I often get a gust of damp air onto the windscreen, so I think water is collecting in that area.
- A Hirschmann 6000KE aerial, which doesn't work. I nabbed it on eBay for twenty-something quid as not working, suspected dodgy control board (the black box on top). I then bought a tested & working control board from a seller in the States. Can anyone give me any tips as to how to test the aerial before bolting it in? The one in the car has stopped working and has a rat's nest of wires around it, so it'd be good to know that the new aerial operates before going any further. I'll need to dog out the MB rubber, but that'll seal up another possible water ingress point.
Still working on the diff...
SEGit: Lemforder. I don't have any experience of engine mounts in the wild, but these look pretty solid.
Just bought a diff. Not the one I was stalking, but that may still work out (in which case it'd be available to a fellow sufferer).
To celebrate Drive It Day yesterday, I had my own version: Sod It Day. While out for a local drive - to keep the car ticking over until getting some things sorted, and because I love driving this car - I set off from a standstill after the usual 'let one through, three more bully afterwards' my-right-of-way situation....with the wheels pointing toward the kerb. First time I've kerbed a wheel in several years.
On the positive side, they're kerbed anyway.
Just bought a diff. Not the one I was stalking, but that may still work out (in which case it'd be available to a fellow sufferer).
To celebrate Drive It Day yesterday, I had my own version: Sod It Day. While out for a local drive - to keep the car ticking over until getting some things sorted, and because I love driving this car - I set off from a standstill after the usual 'let one through, three more bully afterwards' my-right-of-way situation....with the wheels pointing toward the kerb. First time I've kerbed a wheel in several years.
On the positive side, they're kerbed anyway.
Some diff progress: now I have a tommy gun.
I mean: now I have two spare diffs!
And neither is the one I was stalking.
I bit the bullet and BINed what looks to be the right estate diff (3.07 ratio). While I was at it, I also BINed another diff, for a sixth of the price, from a guy in Addlestone who buys job lots of abandoned packages from the likes of the Royal Mail or Parcelforce.
So, the 3.07 (more expensive) diff - my scientific method of turning the input end resulted in smooth, albeit slow, rotation of the drive ends (sides), so it seems to be okay without any graunching....but what do I know? Seems a little greasy on the back cover, so I don't know whether it needs any attention before it can go on a car.
The cheaper diff is a 2.87, which means it's from a saloon. If anything, it's in marginally better condition. The guy seemed genuine - I collected from a Victorian terraced house in Addlestone, rather than some dodgy lockup - and again it seems to spin fine.
I mean: now I have two spare diffs!
And neither is the one I was stalking.
I bit the bullet and BINed what looks to be the right estate diff (3.07 ratio). While I was at it, I also BINed another diff, for a sixth of the price, from a guy in Addlestone who buys job lots of abandoned packages from the likes of the Royal Mail or Parcelforce.
So, the 3.07 (more expensive) diff - my scientific method of turning the input end resulted in smooth, albeit slow, rotation of the drive ends (sides), so it seems to be okay without any graunching....but what do I know? Seems a little greasy on the back cover, so I don't know whether it needs any attention before it can go on a car.
The cheaper diff is a 2.87, which means it's from a saloon. If anything, it's in marginally better condition. The guy seemed genuine - I collected from a Victorian terraced house in Addlestone, rather than some dodgy lockup - and again it seems to spin fine.
A very long day house hunting gave me a couple of great drives yesterday.
As recounted on the barge thread, I decided to take this car for my all-too-often circuit of house viewings this weekend. I've taken the Lexus for the first 6 trips, and both the cruise control and comfy seats are very welcome, but I was tired of throwing about £150 of petrol in for the 500-mile circuits. So I decided to take this car this time, as it was just me. Bold, considering this car's lack of cruise control and noisy diff, but I hadn't had a good drive in the car in a long time.
Come Friday night, en route to my overnight stay in Telford, I was very worried that this was the wrong move.
Once up to motorway speeds for the first time (and the first time in months, perhaps even 18 months) there was a worrying amount of noise and vibration. Is it the diff, I wondered, or something else going wrong? I pulled into the services, checked the tyre pressures (all a little low) and carried on in sublime ignorance. If I kept below 55ish, the more worrying noise wasn't as evident. So I did that. But, thanks to road closures, reduced speed, and bad weather....my 2.5hr trip became nearly four. But hey ho - only another 350 to do.
First of all, an early-ish morning flow from Telford to Lake Vyrnwy - A5, then mostly B4396 through Knockin, Llynclys, Llanyblodwel, into Wales at Pen-y-bont, Pen-y-bont Fawr, then drop down to the reservoir via Hirnant. Didn't quite make it to Penisarcwm. Truly lovely to have the start of the Welsh hills unroll in front of me. Not fast - mid 40s to mid 50s - but lovely and flowing, with little traffic on the road pre 8am. I kept a Discovery 4 honest, despite my NA diesel, four speed auto with optional jerky shift, and aging diff.
With some time to kill for the only time yesterday, I breakfasted on water & crisps while I had a walk around the lake.
It was then time to slip over Bwlch Y Groes (aka Hellfire Pass, the second highest public road mountain pass in Wales) to my first viewing.
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/j1UTGo2d[/url]
After that, it was the work of but a moment to rejoin the A roads, stopping in Dolgellau for a proper breakfast at TH Roberts before viewing 2 in Corris.
I would provide photos, but to be honest I can't really do the area justice while behind the wheel (perhaps never) and I was on a strict timeline at this point.
Corris viewing done, off back north to Trawsfynydd. Not a bad view from the back garden:
I then took a moment, rather than go back down the same road, to meander onto unclassified roads at Bronaber, wiggle around Abergeirw and behind the Coed y Brenin mountain bike centre, before heading back onto the A470 below Ganllywd heading to Dolgellau for a coffee.
Turns out I didn't really have time for any of this recreational nonsense.
From there, I had to make tracks to a village outside Machynlleth for my final viewing.
That done, at 7.30 it was lunch time.
After that, it was time to head home.
Perhaps just got in a couple of drive-by viewings, though, because there's always time for that. Right?
Mach to Commins Coch. Didn't even stop for that house. Along the A470 to Llanbrynmair, then right onto the B4518 and time for another joyful drive down past Llyn Clywedog to Llanidloes, flirt with the A470 for its width before plunging down through Pant-y-Dwr and the like, and into Rhyader. Back onto the A470, and down to Newbridge-on-Wye for my last drive past at about 10pm. Then just the 170 miles to get home.
Except it wasn't. Somewhere near Three Cocks, the road was closed, and I took a wrong turning during the diversion. By the time I could turn around on the A40 south of Brecon, my sat nav had given up on telling me to turn around, so we headed through the Brecon Beacons on the A470, heading for the M4 in Cardiff. A quick stop for a fill-up (36mpg very impressive given the nature of the terrain) in Wales, and a stop or two for me, and I got home at 2.30 this morning.
But, you ask, what about the car? Shut up about the scenery and your incompetence, and tell us about the car!!
Well. The car is okay. Given I was considering throwing in the towel at the 25 mile mark, we got around the 560 mile circuit pretty well.
I didn't have music for the last couple of hours - the CD player seems to have jammed, and it wouldn't even turn on - and I generally kept below 60mph to keep the noises and vibrations to a mentally-bearable level, but we got back in one piece.
It's a good car.
As recounted on the barge thread, I decided to take this car for my all-too-often circuit of house viewings this weekend. I've taken the Lexus for the first 6 trips, and both the cruise control and comfy seats are very welcome, but I was tired of throwing about £150 of petrol in for the 500-mile circuits. So I decided to take this car this time, as it was just me. Bold, considering this car's lack of cruise control and noisy diff, but I hadn't had a good drive in the car in a long time.
Come Friday night, en route to my overnight stay in Telford, I was very worried that this was the wrong move.
Once up to motorway speeds for the first time (and the first time in months, perhaps even 18 months) there was a worrying amount of noise and vibration. Is it the diff, I wondered, or something else going wrong? I pulled into the services, checked the tyre pressures (all a little low) and carried on in sublime ignorance. If I kept below 55ish, the more worrying noise wasn't as evident. So I did that. But, thanks to road closures, reduced speed, and bad weather....my 2.5hr trip became nearly four. But hey ho - only another 350 to do.
First of all, an early-ish morning flow from Telford to Lake Vyrnwy - A5, then mostly B4396 through Knockin, Llynclys, Llanyblodwel, into Wales at Pen-y-bont, Pen-y-bont Fawr, then drop down to the reservoir via Hirnant. Didn't quite make it to Penisarcwm. Truly lovely to have the start of the Welsh hills unroll in front of me. Not fast - mid 40s to mid 50s - but lovely and flowing, with little traffic on the road pre 8am. I kept a Discovery 4 honest, despite my NA diesel, four speed auto with optional jerky shift, and aging diff.
With some time to kill for the only time yesterday, I breakfasted on water & crisps while I had a walk around the lake.
It was then time to slip over Bwlch Y Groes (aka Hellfire Pass, the second highest public road mountain pass in Wales) to my first viewing.
[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/j1UTGo2d[/url]After that, it was the work of but a moment to rejoin the A roads, stopping in Dolgellau for a proper breakfast at TH Roberts before viewing 2 in Corris.
I would provide photos, but to be honest I can't really do the area justice while behind the wheel (perhaps never) and I was on a strict timeline at this point.
Corris viewing done, off back north to Trawsfynydd. Not a bad view from the back garden:
I then took a moment, rather than go back down the same road, to meander onto unclassified roads at Bronaber, wiggle around Abergeirw and behind the Coed y Brenin mountain bike centre, before heading back onto the A470 below Ganllywd heading to Dolgellau for a coffee.
Turns out I didn't really have time for any of this recreational nonsense.
From there, I had to make tracks to a village outside Machynlleth for my final viewing.
That done, at 7.30 it was lunch time.
After that, it was time to head home.
Perhaps just got in a couple of drive-by viewings, though, because there's always time for that. Right?
Mach to Commins Coch. Didn't even stop for that house. Along the A470 to Llanbrynmair, then right onto the B4518 and time for another joyful drive down past Llyn Clywedog to Llanidloes, flirt with the A470 for its width before plunging down through Pant-y-Dwr and the like, and into Rhyader. Back onto the A470, and down to Newbridge-on-Wye for my last drive past at about 10pm. Then just the 170 miles to get home.
Except it wasn't. Somewhere near Three Cocks, the road was closed, and I took a wrong turning during the diversion. By the time I could turn around on the A40 south of Brecon, my sat nav had given up on telling me to turn around, so we headed through the Brecon Beacons on the A470, heading for the M4 in Cardiff. A quick stop for a fill-up (36mpg very impressive given the nature of the terrain) in Wales, and a stop or two for me, and I got home at 2.30 this morning.
But, you ask, what about the car? Shut up about the scenery and your incompetence, and tell us about the car!!
Well. The car is okay. Given I was considering throwing in the towel at the 25 mile mark, we got around the 560 mile circuit pretty well.
I didn't have music for the last couple of hours - the CD player seems to have jammed, and it wouldn't even turn on - and I generally kept below 60mph to keep the noises and vibrations to a mentally-bearable level, but we got back in one piece.
It's a good car.
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