Fisher Fury, impuse buy!

[Mark-insert old BMW]

Fingers crossed it holds out. What oil are you running?

[Zephyr Speedshop]

Mark-insert old BMW said:

Fingers crossed it holds out. What oil are you running?

Cheap 10/40 Fuchs titan at the moment. As I'm going to have to change the oil again soon to make sure it's flushed any st out.

[andburg]

Zephyr Speedshop said:

Mark-insert old BMW said:

Fingers crossed it holds out. What oil are you running?

Cheap 10/40 Fuchs titan at the moment. As I'm going to have to change the oil again soon to make sure it's flushed any st out.

With you on this…I’d be doing some really short interval oil and filter changes as a precaution

The ultimate quality of the oil is really not an issue

[Mark-insert old BMW]

It was the weight of oil that interested me, as opposed to brand.

[Zephyr Speedshop]

Mark-insert old BMW said:

It was the weight of oil that interested me, as opposed to brand.

What you thinking Mark? Maybe I should run a thicker one.

I'll post an update in abit as I've done 100plus miles today and there positives and some negatives

[Yazza54]

Zephyr Speedshop said:

Mark-insert old BMW said:

It was the weight of oil that interested me, as opposed to brand.

What you thinking Mark? Maybe I should run a thicker one.

I'll post an update in abit as I've done 100plus miles today and there positives and some negatives

Unless you are running really hot oil temps or seeing low pressures I see no reason to run heavier oil than you already are

[Zephyr Speedshop]

As mentioned, I got some miles on it today, and the rod knock is so far being held at bay. And I've not been gentle with it

I've done 100 plus miles,Today!

had fair bit of fun chasing my buddy in his accord euro R. With a stop at good wood just because.


Anyway I probably should have taken it easier. As the valve train is sounding a little noisy now. Which is very odd as it's the first time it's sounded loud. I measured the intake clearances (lower oil side) as 0.30/0.35 while hot. As this is about where it should be cold it's definitely going to need some thicker shims.

However I'm wondering if it's either damaged the cam (unlikely on the base circle) or maybe the shims have dished out from running dry? I'm fairly confident it's unlikely to have damaged the valves tops or followers. But I guess I won't know unless I pull them out. I do need to do the cam belt but I'm waiting on what I'm doing with it as Im thinking ultimate road cam regrind/replacements. And valve springs to go with the ecu instead of itbs. As I can't see that the inlet is much of a restriction at the figures were dealing with for now.

The cam noise started this morning once i came of the motorway to my mates unit. t's not got any worse. What is strange is it only does it once up to temp. Sounds spot on until it's full up to temp. Even partially cooled it's sounds fine. And with the old screwdriver stethoscope I couldn't identify a particular culprit

I do need to check if it's the injectors as I suppose that's possible. But it does sound like the top end to me.

My plan is to measure it cold in the morning. And see if I can make a tool to get some shims out. I'm invested in keeping this little lump alive still. But I don't want to drop loads of cash on it if it is borked.



Very nice. Not normally a gold wheel kinda guy. But I guess if you're buying 20" bbs splits you know want everyone to know : /biglaugh:



It gets so much attention. Nearly as much as the huracan and sf90 that were across the paddock .

Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Saturday 14th October 22:28

[cliffords]

Perhaps an exhaust leak ?

[Mark-insert old BMW]

Zephyr Speedshop said:

Mark-insert old BMW said:

It was the weight of oil that interested me, as opposed to brand.

What you thinking Mark? Maybe I should run a thicker one.

I'll post an update in abit as I've done 100plus miles today and there positives and some negatives

I always ran Millers 10w50 in the S14 in my M3 and in the warmed over M44.

[AW111]

I'd use 50 weight in an engine of that era.

Rally car runs Penrite HPR50, but that's a competition engine.

[Zephyr Speedshop]

Got me thinking there chaps, only other thing to change is the oil maybe it's a lighter grade I've used ?

I've just looked it up in the book. I was lazy and use opies system to order. It should have 15W40 so we're good according to factory. But I wonder if it had w50 or 60 in that's way it wasn't tapping before. As if it was a true valve train problem from the oil starvation it would be present at all times.

Here the valve specs to. So will measure them. After breakfast.

[Zephyr Speedshop]

cliffords said:

Perhaps an exhaust leak ?

I don't think so, it's more metallic and in the top. But definitely worth checking.

[Zephyr Speedshop]

This power graph confirm the way it drives very linear. And that it wants to keep making power past the rpm limit.



Looking at the piper cam specs and the lift information in the manual. I know it's not the full story however pipers quoted lift is 9.8mm for fast road and 10.4mm for ultimate road. The standard cams are 10.033mm. So maybe I can just fit the stronger springs, and then let it rev till it rolls over. Somewhere in the 7000rpm range and Do cams later?

[AW111]

6,000 rpm is very conservative.
I'd do the valve springs and see.

I'll try and find some figures from the rally car. Being setup for blind rallies and endurance events, it's not tuned to the bleeding edge.

[Zephyr Speedshop]

AW111 said:

6,000 rpm is very conservative.
I'd do the valve springs and see.

I'll try and find some figures from the rally car. Being setup for blind rallies and endurance events, it's not tuned to the bleeding edge.

The factory ecu is rpm limit is 6.5k for the delta. From the guy Croft book the valve springs will have issues above 7k. But the pistons are fine until 8.5k. So my thinking is valvespings. And see what it does. If it will get into the 130s like that id be quite happy. I think electronic ignition and more rpm with be really beneficial. It's only if that cam rolls over at 6.8k or something it will be abit frustrating.

[tr7v8]

Zephyr Speedshop said:

Mark-insert old BMW said:

Fingers crossed it holds out. What oil are you running?

Cheap 10/40 Fuchs titan at the moment. As I'm going to have to change the oil again soon to make sure it's flushed any st out.

Pretty sure they were designed on & ran on 20/50. Personally I'd run Valvoline VR1 20/50 which is a good mineral, very common for Rover V8s & the like. Or the other option is Comma Motorsport 15W/50 which is a synth. Both available from EBay.
I've had several of these twinks & they are pretty bulletproof. I only a few years ago scrapped an Abarth 5 speed box from a 131 Sport. The box was OK but no one wanted it. I broke a very rusty 131 Sport, then a Croma for their 2L lumps when I was building the Westfield.

[Mark-insert old BMW]

tr7v8 said:

Zephyr Speedshop said:

Mark-insert old BMW said:

Fingers crossed it holds out. What oil are you running?

Cheap 10/40 Fuchs titan at the moment. As I'm going to have to change the oil again soon to make sure it's flushed any st out.

Pretty sure they were designed on & ran on 20/50. Personally I'd run Valvoline VR1 20/50 which is a good mineral, very common for Rover V8s & the like. Or the other option is Comma Motorsport 15W/50 which is a synth. Both available from EBay.
I've had several of these twinks & they are pretty bulletproof. I only a few years ago scrapped an Abarth 5 speed box from a 131 Sport. The box was OK but no one wanted it. I broke a very rusty 131 Sport, then a Croma for their 2L lumps when I was building the Westfield.

My thoughts also, although I would always prefer a quality mineral oil given the choice.

[Zephyr Speedshop]

I'll order some w50 then. As it's all it can be it would chatter at any temp if it was damaged surely?

I've done an experiment today. I chemical metaled (I know, I know) so fences into the intake side drains. To test wether the oil level is part of the issue.





So once I got them all fitted and the epoxy had gone off. I put it back together to test.

I wanted to adjust the idles as well as it's way to high and I found the idle screw in the manual this morning.

It started up fine and I tweaked the idle down at which point it started to freak out bearly running and I could hear the idle valve working over time. So wound it back to no effect. Then it wouldn't start?.

Took way longer than it should 10/15mins mucking about to realize the high-pressure pump wasn't kicking in. The electrics are a mess on the engine side so I bridge the pump to the buzzbar. At which point not was running but the car still wouldn't start.

Que hours of going through every relay and fuse. Nothing. Pissed about looking for faults swapping relays. Still nothing.

Then I noticed the pump would prime intermittently ??? I'm starting to think the ecu has failed?.

Then I found this god know how I got home yesterday! I guess the engine shaking at a low idle was enough to break it.


So I fixed that and still nothing! Although everything is working. I have spark. And pump?

Took way too long realize id plugged the pump in backwards.

Sorted that and it fired straight up .

So just been for a spin. And the valve train noise is still there. When hot. However it's now limited to under braking/pulling up to a stop it then reasonably quickly sorts itself out.

When I pulled the valve cover I found that my fences worked but they could do with being higher definitely in the rear one


Front compartment


Rear compartment

So I'm thinking a combo of 50w and the fences built up will sort it . However the noise is all over when it happen? It's not obviously the intake side ?

Can't hear it in my videos either? It's really odd. It's loud only for a short period now. Then settles right down?

Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Sunday 15th October 17:44

[Zephyr Speedshop]

Oh I forgot to mention the valve clearances were a fraction to tight intake side .30 to .35. (.40 +- .04) and to tight exhaust side as there the same clearance (.50 +-.04) .although this doesn't explain why it's started doing it. As this hasn't been changed but maybe it's part of the noise? And the oil have been hiding it?

[Zephyr Speedshop]

Mark-insert old BMW said:

tr7v8 said:

Zephyr Speedshop said:

Mark-insert old BMW said:

Fingers crossed it holds out. What oil are you running?

Cheap 10/40 Fuchs titan at the moment. As I'm going to have to change the oil again soon to make sure it's flushed any st out.

Pretty sure they were designed on & ran on 20/50. Personally I'd run Valvoline VR1 20/50 which is a good mineral, very common for Rover V8s & the like. Or the other option is Comma Motorsport 15W/50 which is a synth. Both available from EBay.
I've had several of these twinks & they are pretty bulletproof. I only a few years ago scrapped an Abarth 5 speed box from a 131 Sport. The box was OK but no one wanted it. I broke a very rusty 131 Sport, then a Croma for their 2L lumps when I was building the Westfield.

My thoughts also, although I would always prefer a quality mineral oil given the choice.

Thanks for that gentleman, it sounds way way better on vr1. Tonight sore the hardest thrashing it's had. And pretty much zero noise. I heard it a couple of times coming to a stop after, high rpm runs. But then immediately settles down. So I think once those fences are built up. It will be fine.

I can only assume I never noticed it before. And it's done it all the time but now I'm obviously very sensitive to it's time changing.

perfect weather for it !



Love driving it, felt like mister toad tonight looking over the long bonnet

Guess I start ordering parts! I do need to pull the gearbox as something sounds very loud with the clutch engaged at idle. But goes away when depressed. I'm wondering what the setup looks like and if it has a pilot bearing ? As I doubt the lancia crank would have but the longitudinal 131 box probably needs one?