The Cobra Adventure
Discussion
Struggling to get this running spot on. Seems to struggle with AFR's at idle and just after idle once hot.
So took the tune off it along with a data log from a good 30 min drive.
Everything looks fine bar not wanting to meet AFR targets.
So I go through all my individual parameters. Only one doesn't make sense. This thing makes a lot of vacuum. Way more than it should with the cam its got.
In the engine bay, off the brake booster, to the TB another little line disappears off into the car. After a lot of pissing about, I follow it through to the rear.
Guess what there is......
A bloody vacuum pump, fine on a carb, but will totally f**k with a ECU which relies on a accurate MAP signal.
Stripped it all out.
Junked the old map out of the ECU as the pump will have wrecked the calibration.
Just on with making a new base map now.
So took the tune off it along with a data log from a good 30 min drive.
Everything looks fine bar not wanting to meet AFR targets.
So I go through all my individual parameters. Only one doesn't make sense. This thing makes a lot of vacuum. Way more than it should with the cam its got.
In the engine bay, off the brake booster, to the TB another little line disappears off into the car. After a lot of pissing about, I follow it through to the rear.
Guess what there is......
A bloody vacuum pump, fine on a carb, but will totally f**k with a ECU which relies on a accurate MAP signal.
Stripped it all out.
Junked the old map out of the ECU as the pump will have wrecked the calibration.
Just on with making a new base map now.
Edited by Waitey on Monday 19th June 11:05
Since I now have a bigger lack of trust in all the work done in the past to this car, after the brake issues and hidden vacuum pump fun, I decided to check even the most basic of basic stuff with this..
Today task was timing. Since I'm relatively young.. timing to me, is cam and crank sensors and pressing page up on a ECU table to change it.
Dizzy's and timing lights are new to me.
So I bought one!
Ford Windsors have an odd firing order
Which is what gives them their destinctive sound.
Anyway, I watched a youtube video of setting timing on a Ford Windsor then set about checking and changing mine.
I spoke to Smeding Performance who built the engine and they recommend 16deg static timing advancing to 32deg.
And.....
Mine was set to 25deg static, over 40(!)deg advance.
Timing was easy to reset though and it runs far better!
Today task was timing. Since I'm relatively young.. timing to me, is cam and crank sensors and pressing page up on a ECU table to change it.
Dizzy's and timing lights are new to me.
So I bought one!
Ford Windsors have an odd firing order
Which is what gives them their destinctive sound.
Anyway, I watched a youtube video of setting timing on a Ford Windsor then set about checking and changing mine.
I spoke to Smeding Performance who built the engine and they recommend 16deg static timing advancing to 32deg.
And.....
Mine was set to 25deg static, over 40(!)deg advance.
Timing was easy to reset though and it runs far better!
samoht said:
It must be very satisfying to get the engine fuelling properly and running nicely.
Do you think the tyres might be a bit old and hard, or is it just that light and powerful that full throttle in second isn't realistic?
Looks great in that pic too.
The tyres are 7 years old. So getting on a bit. Do you think the tyres might be a bit old and hard, or is it just that light and powerful that full throttle in second isn't realistic?
Looks great in that pic too.
They’ve never really seen UV though so they are in very good nick.
They are on the list to be changed next year though for some CR Avon’s with the classic style tread.
Ordered some parts from the USA.
Full engine gasket set inc sump, so I can finally sort out that oil weap I have.
Along with some black HT leads to get rid of the horrible red ones.
Also some new pulleys so I can run a 6PK serpentine belt and sack this s**t v belt off.
My car suffers from wheel shimmy over 60mph due to the rack and column being solid all the way from the rack to the steering wheel along with 245/60/15 tyres notoriously not being round.... Road vibrations just end up being additive and it gets annoying real fast.
Luckily someone in the USA decided to fix this, by partnering with a company that makes the racks and columns for the Indy car series. So I've ordered a load of fancy universal joints and mounts that should cure it totally.
Wasn't cheap though, but if you mess with steering, may as well do it right.
Full engine gasket set inc sump, so I can finally sort out that oil weap I have.
Along with some black HT leads to get rid of the horrible red ones.
Also some new pulleys so I can run a 6PK serpentine belt and sack this s**t v belt off.
My car suffers from wheel shimmy over 60mph due to the rack and column being solid all the way from the rack to the steering wheel along with 245/60/15 tyres notoriously not being round.... Road vibrations just end up being additive and it gets annoying real fast.
Luckily someone in the USA decided to fix this, by partnering with a company that makes the racks and columns for the Indy car series. So I've ordered a load of fancy universal joints and mounts that should cure it totally.
Wasn't cheap though, but if you mess with steering, may as well do it right.
Edited by Waitey on Monday 19th June 11:40
Took it for a little drive yesterday.
Still have a vibration at big speeds. So today it was time to find why…..
I’ve always assumed that if you had wheels made for a car, then well, they’d be the right spec. On measuring though, the centre bore is 75.1mm and the BMW hubs are 72.6mm.
So the vibration is come from misalignment on tightening.
Weird that it’s never had spigots though, best look at the old spacers it had, so see if they were actually 75mm….
Ah hello mr spigot ring…
I am a Bell end.
Still have a vibration at big speeds. So today it was time to find why…..
I’ve always assumed that if you had wheels made for a car, then well, they’d be the right spec. On measuring though, the centre bore is 75.1mm and the BMW hubs are 72.6mm.
So the vibration is come from misalignment on tightening.
Weird that it’s never had spigots though, best look at the old spacers it had, so see if they were actually 75mm….
Ah hello mr spigot ring…
I am a Bell end.
Edited by Waitey on Monday 19th June 11:49
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