Fisher Fury, impuse buy!
Discussion
Furyous said:
alan-87 said:
This body is currently under my house in New Zealand. The plan was to get the black live axle car registered within a few months, then start building the blue one as an IRS. Instead, I've had 10 years of nonstop personal dramas so neither of them are done.
I finally got settled at the end of last year so got stuck into the chassis but found all kinds of weirdness going on with the chassis. Lots of twisted, bent bits. I decided just to make a whole new chassis and then I would know it's all straight and not rusted on the inside.
I always love to see a Fury project. Regarding the top end tapping, are you sure it's not the injectors? They can be very clacky sometimes.
its defiatly a valve train noise. i just cant get my head around how it can change. when stopping then sort its self out. im going to try some thinner gaskets on the end covers as this is how fiat set the end float of the cams. its got no worse than it was even after the dyno, ive sort of accepted it does it for now.
Another productive day on Saturday.
Care had an inlet leak the last time I drove it. So I ordered a thicker inlet Gasket with a metal core as some of the bits between the bolts and edges of the ports are really thin.
Because the new gasket has the holes for the coolant ports. These are redundant in my setup. I've plugged one at the No1 end and there is a indent in the casting in the middle that was just exposing the cut out in the gasket . So I filled this. To a flat surface. And used some gasket maker on this part of the gasket.
ABIT gypsy I know but. I can't find a suitable gasket. Because the standard delta one is 5mm thick. And because the ports are at 45° verticallly and now angled forwards. It gives a nasty step to the port. And makes them off-centre. Hence using paper ones. Fingers crossed this holds otherwise back to the drawing board.
While messing with the manifold I noticed, that trumpets were closer to the steering rack than I remember? . No idea how they didn't see this on the MOT.
Bloody ran out of gas so ended using some old gasless mig wire but got the job done. I will be revisiting these mounts with some much thicker plates.
Dremmeled out the cracks.
pretty happy with that definitely something to keep an eye on.
Also got the drivers sill bolted on properly. It had lost the one bolt in the bottom and a couple of the fittings had pulled out the fiberglass. Same as the passenger side it's now bolted to the rear body work . And has 4bolts into the floor. Along with the one along the top.
It's much much more solid now I think that might have been one of the bigger rattles.
And made a gasket for the thermostat housing that start to leak after the Dyno. It was fitted with silicone that had pretty much squished out so had no chance.
Did all this with the intent on going to locksheath classics but with the forecast I didn't bother. Very annoying as I've not had chance to drive it Yet
Care had an inlet leak the last time I drove it. So I ordered a thicker inlet Gasket with a metal core as some of the bits between the bolts and edges of the ports are really thin.
Because the new gasket has the holes for the coolant ports. These are redundant in my setup. I've plugged one at the No1 end and there is a indent in the casting in the middle that was just exposing the cut out in the gasket . So I filled this. To a flat surface. And used some gasket maker on this part of the gasket.
ABIT gypsy I know but. I can't find a suitable gasket. Because the standard delta one is 5mm thick. And because the ports are at 45° verticallly and now angled forwards. It gives a nasty step to the port. And makes them off-centre. Hence using paper ones. Fingers crossed this holds otherwise back to the drawing board.
While messing with the manifold I noticed, that trumpets were closer to the steering rack than I remember? . No idea how they didn't see this on the MOT.
Bloody ran out of gas so ended using some old gasless mig wire but got the job done. I will be revisiting these mounts with some much thicker plates.
Dremmeled out the cracks.
pretty happy with that definitely something to keep an eye on. Also got the drivers sill bolted on properly. It had lost the one bolt in the bottom and a couple of the fittings had pulled out the fiberglass. Same as the passenger side it's now bolted to the rear body work . And has 4bolts into the floor. Along with the one along the top.
It's much much more solid now I think that might have been one of the bigger rattles.
And made a gasket for the thermostat housing that start to leak after the Dyno. It was fitted with silicone that had pretty much squished out so had no chance.
Did all this with the intent on going to locksheath classics but with the forecast I didn't bother. Very annoying as I've not had chance to drive it Yet
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Monday 26th February 14:32
Took it's to the pub last night and it's running better than ever still spits nice flames even with the cat. (Yes we left the fueling on in the over run) I think I'm starting to get it. It's definitely quicker than a Celica 190 tsport.
Although my alternator cable came lose near home. I think I'm going to have to go through everything and loctite it as it's seems to love backing bolts and nuts off. Never had a car that's been like it.
Shes had a slight vibration since last got it back above 80mph and it's been bugging me as I'm obviously hyper sensitive to it being the prop, however if you hold the shifter or the box casing through the boot you can't feel it. It comes through the chassis. And seat.
Figured it was a wheel balance issue. But only one of the rears was out and only by 20g. Could be part of it. Decided to run it in gear. And noticed the nearside rear looked buckled. So swapped it with the spare. And it was the same. So ran it with the drum off and it's the half shaft.
I'm guessing the 120mph diff lock up could have caused it, as that's pretty brutal.
Should be a video
This could definitely be my problem. Hopefully I can get another one, easily. There seems to be various lengths of English axle so need to do some research. But I think it's a MK2 escort.
Also I've seen these
https://www.vickauto.com/parts/new-billet-cams-tra...
Why can't I just be happy with it as is
I will get the GoPro out and do some good videos of it. As it's sounds epic, now absolutely screams.
I also want to put some ARP bolts in the bottom end. I don't trust what's in there. As I've had it Apart and it had aftermarket wheels in when I picked up the Bearing. So for all I know the bolts have been used twice and I'm now. 1100rpm over the factory limiter. After what it's been through I don't want the little twink to die over something preventable.
Down side is there isn't a kit. But I should be able to just buy the correct studs/bolts individually.
Unless the delta intergrale ones fit ? There's a kit for that.
Although my alternator cable came lose near home. I think I'm going to have to go through everything and loctite it as it's seems to love backing bolts and nuts off. Never had a car that's been like it.
Shes had a slight vibration since last got it back above 80mph and it's been bugging me as I'm obviously hyper sensitive to it being the prop, however if you hold the shifter or the box casing through the boot you can't feel it. It comes through the chassis. And seat.
Figured it was a wheel balance issue. But only one of the rears was out and only by 20g. Could be part of it. Decided to run it in gear. And noticed the nearside rear looked buckled. So swapped it with the spare. And it was the same. So ran it with the drum off and it's the half shaft.
I'm guessing the 120mph diff lock up could have caused it, as that's pretty brutal.
Should be a video
This could definitely be my problem. Hopefully I can get another one, easily. There seems to be various lengths of English axle so need to do some research. But I think it's a MK2 escort.
Also I've seen these
https://www.vickauto.com/parts/new-billet-cams-tra...
Why can't I just be happy with it as is
I will get the GoPro out and do some good videos of it. As it's sounds epic, now absolutely screams.
I also want to put some ARP bolts in the bottom end. I don't trust what's in there. As I've had it Apart and it had aftermarket wheels in when I picked up the Bearing. So for all I know the bolts have been used twice and I'm now. 1100rpm over the factory limiter. After what it's been through I don't want the little twink to die over something preventable.
Down side is there isn't a kit. But I should be able to just buy the correct studs/bolts individually.
Unless the delta intergrale ones fit ? There's a kit for that.
Got a set of straight half shafts! And it made no odds
Which I was super confused about. So I when through everything with a fine tooth combe trying to work out why I would still have the vibration.
Video
I'm pretty impressed that I've managed to bend this. Without distorting the flange. And I should have spotted that and so should the gearbox shop.
Anyway I managed to skive off work on Friday and go to Horsham and pick up a replacement.
Runs perfectly now ! Which is a big weight off my mind. Still lots of stuff to sort out.
Bought a cheapy seat heater kit. Apparently this one is pretty decent. For £30 its worth a punt to be abit more comfortable on those evening pub runs
Next jobs are look at the body and getting the doors to fit properly and not rub on the rest of the body and rattle. They seem to be too big and need chunk shaving off to clear everything. Also want to fill and fair all the holes and marks on the body so I can wrap it. Ive decided to be boring and go with a simple design that complements the car.
Also need to go through the rear suspension I think the bushes.
Which I was super confused about. So I when through everything with a fine tooth combe trying to work out why I would still have the vibration.
Video
I'm pretty impressed that I've managed to bend this. Without distorting the flange. And I should have spotted that and so should the gearbox shop.
Anyway I managed to skive off work on Friday and go to Horsham and pick up a replacement.
Runs perfectly now ! Which is a big weight off my mind. Still lots of stuff to sort out.
Bought a cheapy seat heater kit. Apparently this one is pretty decent. For £30 its worth a punt to be abit more comfortable on those evening pub runs
Next jobs are look at the body and getting the doors to fit properly and not rub on the rest of the body and rattle. They seem to be too big and need chunk shaving off to clear everything. Also want to fill and fair all the holes and marks on the body so I can wrap it. Ive decided to be boring and go with a simple design that complements the car.
Also need to go through the rear suspension I think the bushes.
I've mentioned the doors driving me mad before I'm sure. They rattle and creak. The whole time you drive it. Not so bad with headphones but still.
Now things are starting to get back on track I'm looking at the details that are bugging me. One of those is general appearance. It's a 2/3 meter car at the moment. So keen to get it wrapped. And the doors are way way too tight if I add a couple of layers of wrap i Doubt they will shut. This made me realise just how much they are rubbing.
The fitment isn't helping but there way too tight and the way there made. I need to clreance them for the wrap.
Sorry was getting dark
It's an absolute revelation to drive it now. There not perfect few knocks on big bumps but the creaking and continuous noise is delt with. I need to spend some more time on it before I do the wrap. As there's a few high spots and I need some more clearance in place especially when closing so they don't hit the shuts and do damage.
Pulled the starter tonight as its Abit sticker from cold. So cleaned up the actuator and greased it. Fingers crossed rockshox speed cream is upto the job as Ive run out of shop grease.
Next biggy is the 5 link all the bushes need doing. Mark fisher is very active on Instagram and Facebook so managed to find out the exact bush used originally.
https://store.avmr.com/products/bp636-2-peened-sin...
This is what I'm working with tho. There's really not much room for movement. I appreciate the 5 link should be pretty stable but just body roll is likely enough to have the arms contacting the frame jaws.
Avmr do a version of that bush with a 38mm instead of 35mm distance tube which I think I could probably squeeze into the frame jaws. To give abit more space for moment. Only snag it's not peened over so I've asked if they can do that for me.
Other option is super flex make these for tvrs but I think having flanges like that will be too hard to force into the chassis. And have still work properly. .
https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF...
Other option is I bite the bullet and re make every thing with rose joints. I'd like adjustable arms anyway as I can then adjust the rear axle and also adjust the pinion angle.
What do you guys think. NVH isn't really a deal breaker on this one
Now things are starting to get back on track I'm looking at the details that are bugging me. One of those is general appearance. It's a 2/3 meter car at the moment. So keen to get it wrapped. And the doors are way way too tight if I add a couple of layers of wrap i Doubt they will shut. This made me realise just how much they are rubbing.
The fitment isn't helping but there way too tight and the way there made. I need to clreance them for the wrap.
Sorry was getting dark
It's an absolute revelation to drive it now. There not perfect few knocks on big bumps but the creaking and continuous noise is delt with. I need to spend some more time on it before I do the wrap. As there's a few high spots and I need some more clearance in place especially when closing so they don't hit the shuts and do damage.
Pulled the starter tonight as its Abit sticker from cold. So cleaned up the actuator and greased it. Fingers crossed rockshox speed cream is upto the job as Ive run out of shop grease.
Next biggy is the 5 link all the bushes need doing. Mark fisher is very active on Instagram and Facebook so managed to find out the exact bush used originally.
https://store.avmr.com/products/bp636-2-peened-sin...
This is what I'm working with tho. There's really not much room for movement. I appreciate the 5 link should be pretty stable but just body roll is likely enough to have the arms contacting the frame jaws.
Avmr do a version of that bush with a 38mm instead of 35mm distance tube which I think I could probably squeeze into the frame jaws. To give abit more space for moment. Only snag it's not peened over so I've asked if they can do that for me.
Other option is super flex make these for tvrs but I think having flanges like that will be too hard to force into the chassis. And have still work properly. .
https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF...
Other option is I bite the bullet and re make every thing with rose joints. I'd like adjustable arms anyway as I can then adjust the rear axle and also adjust the pinion angle.
What do you guys think. NVH isn't really a deal breaker on this one
BrettMRC said:
There should be a few places, (even superflex) that can make you up a set of bushes to order - that might be an option? Or maybe Octaneologists? https://octaneologists.com/collections/suspension-...
NVH isn't the end of the world, but it has to be tolerable when you are at 2/10.
Thanks. There's just not enough room in the jaws to have the flanges required they would only be 1mm thick. NVH isn't the end of the world, but it has to be tolerable when you are at 2/10.
It's a no brainer for me, McGill have quoted me £202. For a full 5 link rose joint kit with tubes. the bushes are £110, On there own.
I have enough gas, wire, beer and stupidity. To stick them together
worst case my buddy will help . Should be quite fun
EmBe said:
Rose joints will rattle your teeth out.
Having driven a couple of race cars on the road I can confirm - you have no idea how smooth racetracks are until you take a rose jointed race car on a British road - my vision was blurred the whole time with the vibration and the car felt like it was shaking itself to pieces over every bump.
You've not driven a fisher fury then Having driven a couple of race cars on the road I can confirm - you have no idea how smooth racetracks are until you take a rose jointed race car on a British road - my vision was blurred the whole time with the vibration and the car felt like it was shaking itself to pieces over every bump.
I've been speaking to Mark fisher. Heres and interesting point I'd not considered.
' the very clever design idea behind using metalastic bushes is that the limited movement in the bushes effectively makes the whole rear axle a huge anti roll bar. On cornering as one side goes up into bump and the other in droop there will be a resistance / twisting action in the bushes. Using a rosejointed system is fine just like a works Escort MK 2 but the subtle effect of the bush set up is lost and the ride is much harsher.'
So I'll order the bushes tomorrow.
What a sound (video if you click on it)
Good weekend with the fury. Starting to trust it a it more hit the soft limiter today which is a first .
I've also picked up a 2.0 lanca beta engine for £50. I'm pretty sure I can put my pistons and head on it and give me a better compression ratio. It won't spin a fast but should give a good chunk more power. This is going on the back burner as I'll probably fit it next winter but I'd like to get the block all prepped and painted ready. Maybe even go for high comp pistons.
As it uses an escort rack and control arms. I got a set of poly bushes for them. I fitted the rack ones. Can't say it made much odds but the old ones were perished. And the control arms look pretty knackered too.
I'll get the rear bushes ordered tomorrow too as it's still properly wayward at speed
I also made the cat removal pipe. Not really made it much louder which is good. Need to take it out in the dark again as it was spitting flames with the cat. There be abit bigger now I think
Good weekend with the fury. Starting to trust it a it more hit the soft limiter today which is a first
. I've also picked up a 2.0 lanca beta engine for £50. I'm pretty sure I can put my pistons and head on it and give me a better compression ratio. It won't spin a fast but should give a good chunk more power. This is going on the back burner as I'll probably fit it next winter but I'd like to get the block all prepped and painted ready. Maybe even go for high comp pistons.
As it uses an escort rack and control arms. I got a set of poly bushes for them. I fitted the rack ones. Can't say it made much odds but the old ones were perished. And the control arms look pretty knackered too.
I'll get the rear bushes ordered tomorrow too as it's still properly wayward at speed
I also made the cat removal pipe. Not really made it much louder which is good. Need to take it out in the dark again as it was spitting flames with the cat. There be abit bigger now I think
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Sunday 17th March 18:02
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Sunday 17th March 18:03
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Monday 18th March 11:41
Mr Tidy said:
It sounds lovely in that clip. 
Congratulations on getting the 2 litre engine too. As you say it won't rev as high because they made it bigger with a longer stroke - I don't think there was enough metal to increase the bore above 84mm! I had a Fiat 132 with the 1,800 engine years ago and it loved some revs.
sounds mega, ive still got this intermittent tapping noise. i might have to bite the bullet and speak to a specialist. seems to be temp related to. Congratulations on getting the 2 litre engine too. As you say it won't rev as high because they made it bigger with a longer stroke - I don't think there was enough metal to increase the bore above 84mm! I had a Fiat 132 with the 1,800 engine years ago and it loved some revs.
if i can sort that ill be quite happy to use my head.
im starting to wounder if its piston slop/slap because the skirts got damaged in the oiling incident. but it still sounds like valve train to me.
Smokin Donut said:
Just read the whole thread, great read and looks like fun. I've always liked the Fury and have almost pulled the trigger on a couple - only to be talked out of it by the other half.
I'm still enjoying the Elise but one day I'd love to rebuild a fire spitting Fury!
Thanks, I'm still enjoying the Elise but one day I'd love to rebuild a fire spitting Fury!
Fancy a swap?
Ok then guys I need some advice.
Apparently the racing furys have 185/60 up front and 205/60 rear. Either 13 or 14" work apparently.
However 205/60/14 is really limited on choice. I've narrowed it down to the A008s as I can get these in 185 and 205 however in the real world I doubt it will make that much odds for me. Even on track as I'm not chasing out right lap time.
This means I can default to a know tyre the AD08rs. Theres £1 in it. Or I could get the a008s in 185 all round and save some pennies.
I fancy trying the a008s and I feel they suit the 'classic' vibe I have going. And it sounds like there quite high performance but I can't find any meaning full reviews.
Apparently the racing furys have 185/60 up front and 205/60 rear. Either 13 or 14" work apparently.
However 205/60/14 is really limited on choice. I've narrowed it down to the A008s as I can get these in 185 and 205 however in the real world I doubt it will make that much odds for me. Even on track as I'm not chasing out right lap time.
This means I can default to a know tyre the AD08rs. Theres £1 in it. Or I could get the a008s in 185 all round and save some pennies.
I fancy trying the a008s and I feel they suit the 'classic' vibe I have going. And it sounds like there quite high performance but I can't find any meaning full reviews.
Righty oh then, had a hectic week working away. think the mrs took petty on me, and let me chill in the garage.
got the new bushes. so thought id have a crack (pun intended) at them with the vice on Friday. that was a mistake
luckily that happened when just finishing the 2nd one on a rear link. so stabbed it back together as i had a ticked to caffeine and machine, for Saturday.
only just got caught in the rain 10 mins from home
then cracked on with the 10 remaining pressin bushes after nipping to borrow my buddies home made one.
what is really interesting is the bushes aren't the peened over type that contain the rubber. theres actually nothing keeping these bushes central as there only bonded to the centre tube to allow some slip between the rubber and case. they are defiantly perished too!
so thats the full rear 5 link bushes replaced. and the front toe links press in ones. i also fitted the rest of the track control arm, poly bushes. so everything on the car except the gearbox and engine mounts is replaced.
what a differance! everyone has been telling me to sort the tyres are there old and dry. (there 100% correct there f
ked) but ive been keen to do everything in steps so i can feel the changes and confirm im on the right track. the bushes have made it feel like the front and rear are connected. i can feel the tyres moving around now and when the slide is going to come. not like before where it would catch me out.
i think im going to go for AD08RS as i know they will work for me.
i had a muck about with the rear lights. i like it what do you guys think? the dog couldn't give a st
also had bit of a break through with the tapping noise. (its not got any worse or better) going up hill it doesn't happen. which confirms to my mine its an oiling issue.
i have some ali billet on order so I can make some oil drain reducers, which is what the 16v builders are doing as all those hears are like mine and should be on a slant.
im buzzing after this weekend, feels like a big step forward. and boy does it look good.
got the new bushes. so thought id have a crack (pun intended) at them with the vice on Friday. that was a mistake
luckily that happened when just finishing the 2nd one on a rear link. so stabbed it back together as i had a ticked to caffeine and machine, for Saturday.
only just got caught in the rain 10 mins from home
then cracked on with the 10 remaining pressin bushes after nipping to borrow my buddies home made one.
what is really interesting is the bushes aren't the peened over type that contain the rubber. theres actually nothing keeping these bushes central as there only bonded to the centre tube to allow some slip between the rubber and case. they are defiantly perished too!
so thats the full rear 5 link bushes replaced. and the front toe links press in ones. i also fitted the rest of the track control arm, poly bushes. so everything on the car except the gearbox and engine mounts is replaced.
what a differance! everyone has been telling me to sort the tyres are there old and dry. (there 100% correct there f
ked) but ive been keen to do everything in steps so i can feel the changes and confirm im on the right track. the bushes have made it feel like the front and rear are connected. i can feel the tyres moving around now and when the slide is going to come. not like before where it would catch me out. i think im going to go for AD08RS as i know they will work for me.
i had a muck about with the rear lights. i like it what do you guys think? the dog couldn't give a s
t also had bit of a break through with the tapping noise. (its not got any worse or better) going up hill it doesn't happen. which confirms to my mine its an oiling issue.
i have some ali billet on order so I can make some oil drain reducers, which is what the 16v builders are doing as all those hears are like mine and should be on a slant.
im buzzing after this weekend, feels like a big step forward. and boy does it look good.
Dirknights said:
I've used the A008 on a classic mini.. I liked them.
Not a super duper high performance tyre but a nice road biased option.
Admittedly a different application but for a lightweight, relatively low powered road car they'd be a safe bet...
I've just ordered a set of a008, decided to stick with 185 around as it will be really close with the rear arch. If I do start using it on track I'll pick up a set of 13s . Then I will have no issues using 205 rears . Which are easier to find in that diameter Not a super duper high performance tyre but a nice road biased option.
Admittedly a different application but for a lightweight, relatively low powered road car they'd be a safe bet...
Thought I'd have a quick little investigation. See if then new engines cams are any better.
Unfortunately they tally with being factory lift for a beta. What was interesting is the cams in my engine on a loose measure while in the car. Are marginally more than they should be. I think the beta ones are marginally longer duration.
Ight treat her to the Vicks cams if I solve the tapping noise.
Unfortunately they tally with being factory lift for a beta. What was interesting is the cams in my engine on a loose measure while in the car. Are marginally more than they should be. I think the beta ones are marginally longer duration.
Ight treat her to the Vicks cams if I solve the tapping noise.
AW111 said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
Thought I'd have a quick little investigation. See if then new engines cams are any better.
Unfortunately they tally with being factory lift for a beta. What was interesting is the cams in my engine on a loose measure while in the car. Are marginally more than they should be. I think the beta ones are marginally longer duration.
Ight treat her to the Vicks cams if I solve the tapping noise.
I navigate a FIAT 1500 with the 1850 Lampredi twincam in classic forest rallies.Unfortunately they tally with being factory lift for a beta. What was interesting is the cams in my engine on a loose measure while in the car. Are marginally more than they should be. I think the beta ones are marginally longer duration.
Ight treat her to the Vicks cams if I solve the tapping noise.
It's running what I believe is basically a copy of a factory rally cam from that era. Not too peaky, and redline at 7,500 or so as I recall.
If you're interested I can see if I can get the specs from the owner.
Here's an earlier version - it's now running downdraft Webers. The exhaust could really do with longer primaries, but there's a steering box to clear.
Id get the piper rally cam out of Choice but I just can't stomach £700+ ex the vat. For a set of cams. If Vic's will set them from the USA even with gold plated carriage. @ $200 for the set they will be a chunk cheaper.
If I can fix this intermittent noise and be confident in this head/engine I'll get some.
They do a race cam and a fast road. Both are quite tame compared to other brands. So thinking there race cam.
Good chunk of progress this week.
Ive mostly fixed the tapping noise. It's 90% gone and sounds better in general now, The drain restriction worked well. It only makes abit of a noise know when properly hot so I think the oil must be getting really hot as it's still the 20/50 Motorsport oil. It not as pronounced. Might also be that it's still draining too fast. But as it seems to be more of a general noise at idle now I think its more Todo with the temps.
Ended up using abit of phosphor bronze propshaft from my parents old yacht , Its left over from make my wife a pen for out anniversary many moons ago. I did order some Ali but the first order was never delivered. And the second one still hasn't arrived. As any of you that have followed my other builds or this one I'm not a patient man, I have a schedule to keep too
Machined to 0.5mm oversize. The holes weren't round so there abit of fudging in that. I also matched 2 grooves into each bung and punched them into the head with a mix of chemical metal. Then centre punched the walls around them.
Was pretty nervous that it would be too small. But after a decent drive today it's fine. The level is about the same as the exhaust side now.
I did some logging with the ECU last weekend. As I've been having an intermittent backfire through the itb's. And I've narrowed it down to for some reason when hot the tps angle increases, the idle is steady until it clicks into the first row of timing curve. Still not sure what to do about this. But an obvious choice on seeing 40° inlet temps even cruising on the motorway, was to try and get some cold air to the itb's. Id fit the piper cross airbox tomorrow I'd it wasn't for the steering column.
I need to log it again and see how much difference that's made.
I'm thinking a NACA duct here is a good shout as it's just Infront of the filter. And should push more cold air in. Other option is to make a custom airbox that accommodates the steering column or move the itb's nearer the engine or change the angle.
Ignore the tape on the top that's my brain off on one it's way too far back. However I was originally thinking a side vent would look nicer and neater. but I don't think it will work as it's too far back it will just blow cold air at the bulkhead. And the more I think about it it would be better to have vents/gills in the side to try and exit the hot air and then have cold air from the front or above.
Would definitely take some ideas on this! It's pretty well ventilated down under the car and out into the sills although there dead ends. However above the sill height that whole area is probably pretty stagnant. So getting it to leave promptly is going to be a massive help to cooling. But I really don't want to be cutting gaping holes in the car if it can be avoided the whole 60s racer vibe is flicking my switch.
Eagle eyed will have already spotted the A008s first impressions today they're really well suited. There not mad stiff track tyres they're definitely a road tyre which is nice and suits where I think I'm heading with this. Sort of ultimate pub run, Sunday morning blat car, for the summer. On a clear B road there's nothing quite like it it's so small you can place it like a mini. And with that screaming 8v that I can absolutely rinse for all 3 bhp it's a riot!
Crap pictures sorry Id cracked the beers this arvo. Decided to setup the ECU fan control. As the thermo switch in the rad whilst it works. Clicks the fan of very quickly as it's right there in the rad. The ECU sees temp from the thermostat housing. So it will keep the fan running until the engine sees cooler temps.
It was rely easy too do. the thermo switch was in the earth side so I soldiered that to the chassis earth bypassing the switch. Rendering the fan permanently on. Then traced the live to behind the dash and buzz bar. Spliced in a relay with the ECU switched earth. It wasn't pretty but functional. I think a complete re wire of the car is coming in the winter. As it's a total mess. I quite like the look of these solid state motorbike PDM's the pricer ones with aux functions will run the wipers other bits while all the lights and running stuff is dealt with without relays or a fuse board.
I'm going to pop to Lockheath meet tomorrow for an hour or so if anyone is about come say hello. (supposed to be cooking mid afternoon lunch)
Feel like a big step forward to this week . Feels great on the road too now. very tempted to order the cams! I need them right
Ive mostly fixed the tapping noise. It's 90% gone and sounds better in general now, The drain restriction worked well. It only makes abit of a noise know when properly hot so I think the oil must be getting really hot as it's still the 20/50 Motorsport oil. It not as pronounced. Might also be that it's still draining too fast. But as it seems to be more of a general noise at idle now I think its more Todo with the temps.
Ended up using abit of phosphor bronze propshaft from my parents old yacht
, Its left over from make my wife a pen for out anniversary many moons ago. I did order some Ali but the first order was never delivered. And the second one still hasn't arrived. As any of you that have followed my other builds or this one I'm not a patient man, I have a schedule to keep too Machined to 0.5mm oversize. The holes weren't round so there abit of fudging in that. I also matched 2 grooves into each bung and punched them into the head with a mix of chemical metal. Then centre punched the walls around them.
Was pretty nervous that it would be too small. But after a decent drive today it's fine. The level is about the same as the exhaust side now.
I did some logging with the ECU last weekend. As I've been having an intermittent backfire through the itb's. And I've narrowed it down to for some reason when hot the tps angle increases, the idle is steady until it clicks into the first row of timing curve. Still not sure what to do about this. But an obvious choice on seeing 40° inlet temps even cruising on the motorway, was to try and get some cold air to the itb's. Id fit the piper cross airbox tomorrow I'd it wasn't for the steering column.
I need to log it again and see how much difference that's made.
I'm thinking a NACA duct here is a good shout as it's just Infront of the filter. And should push more cold air in. Other option is to make a custom airbox that accommodates the steering column or move the itb's nearer the engine or change the angle.
Ignore the tape on the top that's my brain off on one it's way too far back. However I was originally thinking a side vent would look nicer and neater. but I don't think it will work as it's too far back it will just blow cold air at the bulkhead. And the more I think about it it would be better to have vents/gills in the side to try and exit the hot air and then have cold air from the front or above.
Would definitely take some ideas on this! It's pretty well ventilated down under the car and out into the sills although there dead ends. However above the sill height that whole area is probably pretty stagnant. So getting it to leave promptly is going to be a massive help to cooling. But I really don't want to be cutting gaping holes in the car if it can be avoided the whole 60s racer vibe is flicking my switch.
Eagle eyed will have already spotted the A008s first impressions today they're really well suited. There not mad stiff track tyres they're definitely a road tyre which is nice and suits where I think I'm heading with this. Sort of ultimate pub run, Sunday morning blat car, for the summer. On a clear B road there's nothing quite like it it's so small you can place it like a mini. And with that screaming 8v that I can absolutely rinse for all 3 bhp it's a riot!
Crap pictures sorry Id cracked the beers this arvo. Decided to setup the ECU fan control. As the thermo switch in the rad whilst it works. Clicks the fan of very quickly as it's right there in the rad. The ECU sees temp from the thermostat housing. So it will keep the fan running until the engine sees cooler temps.
It was rely easy too do. the thermo switch was in the earth side so I soldiered that to the chassis earth bypassing the switch. Rendering the fan permanently on. Then traced the live to behind the dash and buzz bar. Spliced in a relay with the ECU switched earth. It wasn't pretty but functional. I think a complete re wire of the car is coming in the winter. As it's a total mess. I quite like the look of these solid state motorbike PDM's the pricer ones with aux functions will run the wipers other bits while all the lights and running stuff is dealt with without relays or a fuse board.
I'm going to pop to Lockheath meet tomorrow for an hour or so if anyone is about come say hello. (supposed to be cooking mid afternoon lunch)
Feel like a big step forward to this week . Feels great on the road too now. very tempted to order the cams! I need them right
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Saturday 30th March 23:13
poppopbangbang said:
Zephyr Speedshop said:
I did some logging with the ECU last weekend. As I've been having an intermittent backfire through the itb's. And I've narrowed it down to for some reason when hot the tps angle increases, the idle is steady until it clicks into the first row of timing curve.
Some of this may or may not apply, I'm sorry to admit I've not been back through your thread to check but hopefully one or more is useful. Creep in the TPS is exceptionally problematic at low throttle opening when it's your only load sensing and can have a load of different reasons:- Creep in the TPS when hot can be a combination of expansion of the port throttle system itself where indifferent materials expand at different rates or if using DCOE style throttle bodies each body moving relative to the other which tweeks the centre linkage. There isn't a lot you can do about this besides insulating gaskets below the bodies and some sort of compliant mounting where possible (see rubber / composite lowers on bike throttles). You can also mount the TPS off AV mounts which naturally account for expansion in the mating surface vs the TPS and insulate the TPS a little by air gapping it from the structure of the throttle bodies.
- It can also be a result of the TPS sensor itself, low cost wiper based sensors can show quite considerable creep when heated. None contacting hall effect sensors are generally a little better behaved, even the plastic P&G ones are a big improvement on wiper based ones and the Bosch RPS-F sensors are pretty much bombproof and super consistent even when very warm (0.008 angular degree/C past 30 degrees C)
- If you're using one of the more common aftermarket ECUs then it's likely the breakpoints in the map around the idle position are extremely tight. They probably don't need to be this tight as any intentional throttle movement likely clocks past the first row/column instantly. In this case you can flatten the map out to idle settings around this to avoid it flip flopping between load sites. Technically it's masking the problem but the different in any airmass will by very small and you don't have emissions to meet
Edited to add: Nice Myford!
the TPS is the FAJS one that suites the ITB's there the cheapy FAJS ones too. im reasonable confident its todo with them. as its sorts itself out quite quickley if theres some airspeed through them.
its all compounded but the fact there 45mm so quite big for the engine, when cruising im using barely any throttle.
i seem to have pretty much resolved it it only did it once over the weekend (went out 3 times) ant that was after giving it and absolute rinsing and then crusing for abit. so hot engine with minimal flow through the itbs. ill have a look and see if the bosch one will fit.
another factor was the tps was calibrated at a value of 7 which is really close to 0 volts, this was maxed out on its adjustment buy guy when tunning. i modified it and go it up to a value of 15, which its closer to the 20 the guy wanted. which i think make things much more stable. i cant drill it out any more as it will go through the casing now.
and thanks its a bloody handy thing to have knocking about! it was my great grand fathers, he bought it some time after the war, and was an avid tinkerer much like myself.
edit, a thermal gasket is a good shout i had one on the fiesta made of tuffnel, but ive not seen anything of the shelf for the TC manifold. like you said i could us the rubber dcoe gaskets though.
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Wednesday 3rd April 13:41
Monday night was the hardest I've driven it yet. First time I felt confident enough to lean on it abit. Trying to keep up with an I4 M550 my buddy has borrowed from work.
It's so much fun to pedal down a twisty b road. It sounds glorious too!
Still lots to sort ant I really need to turn my attention to the body so I can get it wrapped so the car it nice ane presentable.
My only grumble on Monday, was above 6k it really reverberates the engine noise vibration through the body. So last night I did the engine mounts I was putting off as my buddy needed his press back.
And I also modified the Speedo drive from the gearbox as this pokes onto the trans tunnel. There was also a 1/2meter tail of speedo drive cable still on it.
Whilst this probably isn't the only cause. It's going to be part of it. And now I can make some nice blanking plates to cover up the hole. And the drain hole.
There's a few other culprits. That probably start to resonate/vibrate when the engine is singing.
I'm not expecting it tobe smooth and quiet. And I'd say I've got a reasonable tolerance for NVH. Hopefully the engine mounts were a big factor
It's so much fun to pedal down a twisty b road. It sounds glorious too!
Still lots to sort ant I really need to turn my attention to the body so I can get it wrapped so the car it nice ane presentable.
My only grumble on Monday, was above 6k it really reverberates the engine noise vibration through the body. So last night I did the engine mounts I was putting off as my buddy needed his press back.
And I also modified the Speedo drive from the gearbox as this pokes onto the trans tunnel. There was also a 1/2meter tail of speedo drive cable still on it.
Whilst this probably isn't the only cause. It's going to be part of it. And now I can make some nice blanking plates to cover up the hole. And the drain hole.
There's a few other culprits. That probably start to resonate/vibrate when the engine is singing.
I'm not expecting it tobe smooth and quiet. And I'd say I've got a reasonable tolerance for NVH. Hopefully the engine mounts were a big factor
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