Our own Italian Job – a MINI Euro Adventure
Discussion
Now a year since we returned from our first big Euro road trip, but thought I'd share as I always enjoy similar posts, and have taken a lot of inspiration for routes and destinations from them.
The words were done to my satisfaction as long ago as February, but it's taken me a while to sort out photo hosting. Hope you enjoy ...
Our own Italian Job – a MINI Euro Adventure
Day 1 – Friday - Ashford to Stavelot
A Euro road trip has always been something I’ve wanted to do, and over the past couple of years had been talking about it with a few friends from Surrey New MINI, but it never quite happened. But last summer, it did. A fairly late decision to go led to an August of intensive planning and booking, after which we were good to go at the beginning of September. Three friends and three MINIs. Two of the two thousand GP2s and a tuned and much cherished R56 JCW.
We’d stayed overnight at Ashford, as we were booked onto the 7am Eurotunnel train to give us a good start on our marathon trip across Europe. Arriving at the terminal and it was obvious that we weren’t the only petrolheads making the early crossing, with a large number of performance cars gathering for a trip to the Ring on what promised to be a warm and sunny weekend.
All went smoothly with the crossing, and we were soon off and running on French roads. Soon after crossing into Belgium we were ready for a breakfast stop, so finding no hot food on offer at a small services, we made do with what turned out to be some of the best tuna sandwiches ever, and stocked up on bags of madeleines and Haribo to sustain us for the journey. Again lots of British cars on their way to the Ring, we would be following them but with an overnight stop and a visit to Spa on the way.
Belgium was … Belgium. It felt like a slightly scruffier Britain, with rather madder driving on the motorways, and the same heavy traffic and roadworks. We’d been advised to avoid the Brussels ring road so we did, turning south for a while, then the E42 motorway eastwards towards Liege. The countryside was getting more appealing now, so we turned off onto backroads for the last leg down towards Spa.
Despite a few TomTom malfunctions, we found our way back to the main N62 and the town of Spa itself. The place names on the road signs were becoming evocative of motorsport history now, and we knew we were getting close to the circuit.
Then we were there. A Porsche track day was in progress, and as expected the gates were shut, but we took photos at the La Source entrance, then round to Eau Rouge. The road round the edge of the circuit was fantastic as we made our way round and up the hill to Les Combes and Malmedy. We could get in to the enclosure here, and spent some time watching the Porsches in action, a mix of road cars and racers preparing for a German championship meeting the next day.
Then something I’d really been looking forward to. The old parts of the full length Spa circuit are now public roads, so what to do with three fast MINIs but to drive them? The rush down the hill from Malmedy to Burnenville, the Masta straight and kink, then the right hand loop at Stavelot and the run back through the woods to where the road rejoins the current circuit just after Blanchimont. Incredibly evocative stuff, it must have been spectacular to witness the F1 and sports cars of the fifties and sixties in action here, and not to mention the skill and bravery of the driving heroes of that era.
It was late afternoon by now, so after a bit of exploration of some Ardennes back roads, we made our way to our accommodation for the night, the Domain Long Pre campsite in the woods near Stavelot. No camping for us on this trip, we’d booked some of their woodland apartments and lodges for our first night away. A meal in the restaurant, and just one strong Belgian beer as we’d be up early and driving in the morning. Next stop, the Nurburgring.
Day 2 – Saturday – Stavelot to Renningen via the Nurburgring
We left our lodgings just after dawn, and drove out into a misty Ardennes morning. Soon after crossing from Belgium into Germany on our way to the Ring, we were met by the stunning sight of wind turbines rising out of the early morning mist, backlit by the low sun. "Graceful ... like driving into heaven" as Chris described it.
This time my TomTom excelled itself and found a wonderful route for us, taking in some great roads, beautiful countryside and picturesque German villages. As we approached the Ring, it was obvious that it was going to be very busy, as the DTM German touring cars were racing on the short GP circuit that weekend. And on such a sunny morning, the Touristfahrten car park was packed with all kinds of performance cars and enthusiasts there to sample the legendary Nordschleife. Petrolhead heaven, and we just drank in the atmosphere of the place.
The sheer volume of traffic heading out onto the circuit more or less made up our minds not to take our MINIs on track and risk problems so early in our twelve day trip. As did a battered BMW M3 being recovered on a trailer. But we had something exciting booked anyway; a passenger lap in the 575bhp supercharged Jaguar Race Taxi, driven by Ring legend Dale Lomas.
Dale suspected the track was about to close due to an incident, so quickly accelerated us out on to the circuit. Traffic was heavy, but in such expert hands the two tonne limo was soon carving its way past Porsches and BMWs, diving into corners as the track rose and fell. Apparently a new set of brake pads is required every two days … The elevation changes were quite an experience, like a roller coaster through the Eifel countryside, and not something that watching videos or playing driving games had prepared us for.
Only one car passed us during our lap, a GT3RS making a beautiful noise as it yowled past at high revs soon after Bergwerk. Round the Karussell, into the last section of the lap, and all too soon we were on the final straight, the traffic slowing as the circuit closed as predicted, to recover a yellow Porsche from the barriers mid way round.
After our lap we were hungry, so delicious bacon and eggs followed at the Devil’s Diner overlooking the action on the track. We did pull up try to get a photo with the famous Ring sign, but the area was very busy due to the race meeting, and a police car was straight onto the back of our little convoy of MINIs with a warning blast of siren almost as we stopped moving. So a visit to the souvenir shop, a fill up at the famous Ring ED petrol station despite all the pushy locals, a stock up with German Haribo and then we were ready to head south towards Stuttgart and our next overnight stop. But the Ring had worked its magic on us, and we hope to be back for a longer visit, and to drive it ourselves. Maybe next summer? It is our club’s tenth birthday after all.
(The return to the Ring did happen. Just back from another excellent road trip, but that's another story).
And the first occurrence of someone trying to get into the wrong GP2 happened at a services just after Hockenheim. Well they do all look the same, and it wouldn’t be the last time this trip.
The autobahns were quite busy on a Saturday afternoon, and there were lots of roadworks, but towards the end of our journey past Pforzheim the traffic cleared enough for some intermittent high speed running on a derestricted section. 140mph was seen, but we knew there was more to come tomorrow if we got the opportunity …
Our accommodation for the night was the very new and very comfortable Hotel Campo at Renningen. An out of town business park location meant some very MINI friendly parking, and we were far enough south now for it to be warm enough to enjoy a delicious German meal outside on the terrace. Currywurst! And close to Stuttgart, ready for some Porsche related goodness first thing in the morning.
Day 3 – Sunday - Renningen to Santa Maria
Leaving the hotel after breakfast, we had a short drive into Stuttgart, and Zuffenhausen, the district best known as the home of Porsche. Cruising down the strasse with the factory buildings on either side of us, we could see our destination ahead of us; the Porsche Museum, marked by massive Goodwood Festival style sculptures on the roundabout outside. We’d timed our arrival perfectly, and were soon in the clean and brilliantly lit underground car park.
Coach parties were starting to arrive as well, so we headed straight into the museum. This was fantastic, one of the best I’ve been to, with plenty of legendary road and race cars on display in a stunning multi level modern building, and lots of German attention to detail. Personal favourites were the line up of 917s in classic liveries: Gulf, Martini and Pink Pig, plus my lottery win car, a 911R, which visitors were invited to sit in for photos. No charge; things wouldn’t be quite the same when we got to Ferrari in Maranello.
We had fun playing with some of the audiovisual experiences, in particular the one with a GT3RS loud pedal and rev counter. Probably the only chance I’ll get to make one sing up to its red line. A few rounds of Porsche table football resulted in one win apiece, then the gift shop had to be visited. What I really wanted was one of the Porsche houndstooth check bean bags from a rest area, but these definitely weren’t for sale, so made do with a fridge magnet and a model GT3RS in Miami Blue. All very reasonably priced too, another thing which wouldn’t be the same in Modena.
Leaving the Porsche quarter of the city behind with a quick McDonalds stop, we headed across town to MINI Stuttgart for a look round and maybe some souvenirs. But the dealership was virtually deserted on a Sunday lunchtime, with only a friendly security guard to show us around. So after taking photos, we needed to be on our way, with a long journey across four countries ahead of us.
We would find many times during the trip that TomToms are not really all that happy with complex junctions around European cities, but after a couple of close calls we were on the autobahn and heading south. As with Belgium and the day before, the motorways did rather remind us of home. No opportunities to go fast due to heavy traffic and lots of roadworks, and at one point a long back roads detour to avoid a massive traffic jam. But eventually we were back on the autobahn and at last it was free flowing, with our first sight of mountains on the horizon. Just in time for some fun.
With the Alps looming ever closer, and the caravans and motorhomes finally getting out of our way, it was time for a bit of high speed running on the last section of derestricted A7 autobahn down to the Austrian border. Vmax was a GPS indicated 152 mph on a slight right hand curve, so there might have been a little more left in a straight line. Both GP2 drivers could really feel the aero working as intended and keeping things stable at that speed, which you don't really notice at UK motorway pace.
Crossing the border at the Fussen tunnel, we needed a fill up at the Shell station after all that fast driving, and were happy to find that V Power in Austria is 100 RON. More Euro sweets were purchased, along with our Austrian motorway toll permits, then we headed south into the Alps.
Mostly single carriageway roads weren’t fast after the previous section of our journey, but the mountain scenery was spectacular, with lakes, dams, tunnels and alpine buildings all round. Though at least we kept moving, as heading the other way was maybe the longest traffic jam we’d ever seen, as what seemed to be most of the population of southern Germany headed slowly back towards the border and home after a weekend in the mountains.
Passing through the Landecker tunnel, the longest we’d encountered since the Channel, we continued south, and after a couple of hours in Austria reached another border. We’d made it to Italy! Our first stop on Italian soil was the beautiful Reschensee, a lake backed by mountains. A friendly photographer taking an interest in our cars turned out to be a Polish petrolhead who’d worked for MINI in the early 2000s, and we exchanged Instagram details and road trip tales. He was going on ahead of us and taking the same route we’d be doing in the morning, over the Umbrail and Stelvio passes.
By now the sun was setting and nightfall was imminent after a long day, so we pressed on the final thirty miles towards Switzerland and our stop for the night. Despite crossing five countries on our journey, we encountered our first obvious border and customs post since Folkestone as we crossed into Swiss territory just a few miles before our destination. It was now getting dark on a Sunday evening, and after a cursory glance we were waved straight through.
This time we’d gone for a traditional hotel, the Hotel Crusch Alba in Santa Maria val Mustair, chosen mainly for its location at the foot of the Umbrail pass. A lovely old building with a sense of history and wood panelled rooms, though the parking arrangements weren’t as promised, and our MINIs ended up tucked wherever we could around the hotel. The locals definitely didn’t appreciate MINI exhaust and engine sounds as we got sorted out. A friendly hostess, and some delicious local food just before the kitchen closed… and a signpost to the Umbrail and Stelvio passes visible from my window pointed the way we’d be going early the next morning and made for sweet MINI dreams.
Day 4 – Monday - Santa Maria to Cavalcaselle via the Stelvio
The little town and its narrow streets turned out to be not quite as sleepy as it had appeared on Sunday night, located as it was on the only main route into the eastern end of Switzerland from Italy. As dawn broke we could hear plenty of traffic passing through, and had to be careful loading up and preparing our MINIs for what promised to be a very good day indeed. We looked longingly at what was obviously going to be an excellent Swiss breakfast, but had to pass on it and make do with a coffee to go as we needed to be on our way to enjoy the passes before they got too busy.
Turning left out of town we were almost straight away onto the climb of the Umbrail pass. Twists and turns up through the forests and pastures and the sound of cowbells all around made it clear where we were and added to the Swiss Alpine atmosphere. Out of the trees and onto the sparser slopes of the mountains, and we reached the top, crossing back into Italy at a deserted border post.
A quick stop for photos and to add our Surrey New MINI sticker to the many on the sign, and we were now onto one of the most famous passes, and a bucket list item for all of us: Stelvio. Climbing the last few miles to the summit, we didn’t stop at the cluster of shops, hotels and cafes but kept going down the eastern side. This was the really well known bit now; hairpin followed hairpin followed hairpin on the long descent to the valley floor, and by the time we reached the bottom and the village of Trafoi, MINI brakes were very hot and squeaky.
So we took a break to allow them to cool down, have a look round and admire the village and surrounding scenery, before starting the climb back to the top. Traffic was starting to build now, and the first few cyclists were out tackling the pass, so we took it easy and made a few stops for photos on the way up. We were really ready for a late breakfast now, so back at the top found a café with an outside terrace to admire the views while eating. Pizza for breakfast? Well we were now in Italy for the next few days, so why not? It was a bit chilly, probably the coldest it would be the whole trip, with patches of snow on the ground in places, but this would change as we headed down further into the late summer heat of Italy.
We had a further four or five hours of driving ahead of us, so late morning we were on our way again, this time down the western side of the Stelvio to the town of Bormio. More great roads and amazing scenery, though there was too much traffic by now to fully enjoy the former. Then a long journey down through the mountains via Tirano and Edolo … and tunnels. So many tunnels, we never thought as MINI drivers that we could ever get bored with tunnels, but they were starting to drag a bit. Then, in a brief spell of daylight between miles of underground gloom, we spotted a beautiful lake off to our right.
So next turning to the right, we took it, and found ourselves cruising into the small town of Marone on the shores of Lake Iseo. A sign to a lakeside car park down a narrow track, and we were at a little harbour. Out of the cars and their air con, the day was scorching hot now, so after photos of the lake and its mountain backdrop, we found shade outside a café for a much needed cold drink. Some very tempting strawberry sundaes featured on the menu, so we had to have our first taste of Italian gelato before getting back on the road. And straight into more tunnels …
We’d been in Italy most of the day, but our first encounter with some stereotypically crazy Italian driving came on the busy main roads around Brescia. In the heavy traffic the three MINIs got split up for the first time during the trip, but we all made our way safely to our regroup point in Desenzano del Garda. Just time for another ice cream and a look at the beautiful Lake Garda, then leaving Desenzano we had an laugh out loud moment when the Italian equivalent of Wallace and Gromit joined in the middle of our MINI convoy: a man on a motorbike with a large and shaggy dog in the sidecar. Cracking! And very appropriate for such A Grand Day Out.
We couldn’t stay long at the lake as we had to be on our way to make check in time at our accommodation for the night. This was the stunning Villa Montenero in Cavalcaselle, and we knew as we rolled down the tree lined drive that it was going to be a good one. Spacious and undercover MINI parking, a friendly welcome in a beautifully modernised villa, tasteful and comfortable rooms, and blissfully cold air conditioning on a hot late summer day. And a swimming pool, though we wouldn’t have time for that at this stop. Hugely recommended if you’re in the area, and I’d love to go back.
After showering and watching our first Italian sunset over the villa gates, we headed out into the town to a recommended restaurant for an alfresco meal. Almost too much to choose from, but the menu featured a dried beef pizza named the Stelvio, so after such an epic day, that had to be ordered. Then back to the villa and its superb rooms to do some planning for tomorrow: Modena, and supercars.
Day 5 – Tuesday - Cavalcaselle to Castellerano via Modena
We woke refreshed in our lovely cool rooms, with the aromas of something delicious being prepared for breakfast downstairs. Though early, the morning was already warm, and the table had been set for us to eat outside. Italian coffee, breads and pastries made for a great start to the day, and it would have been nice to linger in such a lovely setting, but we had a couple of hours drive ahead of us to Modena via back roads to an appointment at Pagani, so had to be on our way.
Bearing in mind this was just a few weeks after the bridge collapse tragedy in Genoa, some of the creaks and groans from a flyover on the bypass round Mantua were not very confidence inspiring, and neither was the sensation of movement when stopped on it in heavy traffic. It was quite a relief to get off and onto more minor roads south towards Modena. Although these had their moments too; at one point the road had almost subsided into the canal running alongside it, resulting in some very severe camber and the need to drive on the British side of the road in places.
Again we got split up in heavy traffic on the outskirts of Modena, but we were close to our first destination, the Pagani factory, and made our own way there. Located on an industrial estate, we knew we were in the right area when a Huayra roadster appeared, giving it the beans in the opposite direction. Parked outside the factory gates, the trio of well travelled British MINIs attracted a lot of interest and attention from the workforce out on smoking breaks – it may have been Italy, but as we were about to find out, Horacio’s fastidious attention to detail would not have permitted a crafty fag whilst at work.
We browsed the shop whilst waiting for our tour; the merchandise was expensive but beautifully designed and tasteful. Not all of these qualities would be evident at our next two destinations. The factory tour was excellent, one of the best I’ve done, showing us production and servicing taking place in a building combining both modern and mediaeval Italian architecture, and everywhere immaculately clean and tidy. Particular attention was given to that Pagani trademark, the exquisite carbon fibre work, and we were allowed to handle some of the beautifully shaped lightweight components. Even the washbasins and other fittings in the toilets were made from it.
The museum covered all of Horacio’s career from his youth in South America, to his work for Lamborghini and then in his own name. A good selection of his cars on display, including his first Formula Renault single seater, and the original Zonda, nicknamed Grandma, which has now covered over a quarter of a million kilometres of testing whilst being continually updated and upgraded, but still looks new.
It was by now a very hot day, so after buying a few bottles of Pagani water to keep us hydrated, we set off into the traffic towards our next destination, Maranello. Our first Italian fuel stop en route proved entertaining as it took all three of us to work out the complexities of pay at the pump Italian style. Maranello itself was very busy; we had thought of trying to get a MINI group photo at the famous Ferrari factory entrance, but this proved impossible. We did however manage to line up in three adjoining spaces in the packed car park at the Museo Ferrari.
There were some lovely cars on display in the museum, and the F1 room was impressive, but overall it was slightly disappointing and to my mind not as detailed or in depth as the Ferrari exhibition at the Design Museum in Kensington last winter. And some of the Prancing Horse tat on sale in the shop gave us a good laugh. Indeed much of Maranello gave the impression of being intended to separate tourists from their Euros, but we kind of knew that would be the case before we went, and it would have felt wrong to drive all the way to Modena and not do it. The best thing about the place was the general atmosphere; steeped in history, and all sorts of little workshops and businesses with Ferraris out and about for test drives or under repair.
After a late lunch we went our separate ways; one on to our accommodation in the hills above Castellerano, and the other two of us headed back across Modena and out towards Bologna to our last supercar destination of the day: the Lamborghini factory at Sant’Agata. Being turned away from the factory car park didn’t make a good first impression, and we had to make do with a congested and slightly dubious parking lot down the road.
But once inside the factory this turned out to be another great tour. More traditional assembly line stuff than Pagani, but lovely to see both Huracans and Aventadors being built, and hearing them fire up for the very first time. The latter included a few SVJs, and it was fun trying to spot cars heading for the UK market, as well as seeing all the customisable options available. The museum was excellent as well, with a full range of Lambos across the years, including a Veneno, and as a longtime F1 fan it was good to see one of the rare Lambo grand prix cars I remembered from the early nineties. Apparently Ayrton Senna was impressed with the V12 when he tested it in a McLaren.
Once again the shop was full of expensive things I didn’t want, and indeed the whole thing must be quite a money spinner for the company, with multiple tours ongoing all the time. And even a Mini connection here, with a stunning orange Miura in the film themed exhibition representing the original classic Italian Job movie.
By the time we left Lambo it was rush hour Italian style in Modena, which made for an interesting experience and a somewhat stressful hour or so drive back across the city to find our place to stay. Out of Castellerano, up into the hills onto country roads and the traffic disappeared, and we arrived at our golf club apartments hot and hungry. Fortunately Chris, having gone on ahead, had switched on all our air con full blast, so after a shower we set off to find the nearest village and somewhere to eat. A nice pizza and seafood restaurant was found, very much a rural place used by the locals, and after an initial struggle to translate the menu, another delicious meal followed. Though none of us were brave enough to try the fried frogs on offer.
Back along dark and twisty country roads, and a bit more planning before bed. Tomorrow would hopefully see more relaxed driving than today as we made our way to the coast.
Day 6 – Wednesday - Castellerano to Sestri Levante
After a hectic day around Modena, we were looking forward to a more relaxed one as we headed down to the coast. It started with another excellent and chilled out Italian breakfast, this time in the fantastic and airy main room of the clubhouse at our golf club accommodation. Another very warm and sunny morning, and we had great views of the course and surrounding scenery in the hills above Modena from the full length windows, and even time for a spot of piano practice.
Leaving the golf club around ten, we rolled through the Italian countryside on some little back roads with virtually no traffic, then joined the SS63 for the remainder of our journey towards the coast. Though a main road, there was still very little traffic away from the towns, and progress was good.
We were approaching the Appennines now, and the section onwards from Cerreto Alpi was particularly enjoyable. Though not as high as the Alps, some lovely wooded mountain scenery and roads we had almost to ourselves made for another great drive. After crossing into Tuscany a wonderful sequence of corners and elevation changes seemed never ending, and could have been made for MINIs. We took a break at the tiny village of Pieve San Paulo to give our brakes a rest, have an ice cream from a sleepy local restaurant and admire the picturesque church before continuing on our way.
As with all our driving in Italy so far, we avoided the toll autostrada which could often be sighted taking a parallel course, and turning north west took the wonderfully twisty and hilly SS1 Via Aurelia just inland from the Cinque Terre coast. Not the fastest route, but definitely the most fun, especially on the Passo del Bracco, and by the time we arrived at the resort town of Sestri Levante, MINI brakes were once again hot and squeaky.
After a supermarket stop for supplies, we made our way to our Riviera accommodation for the night. This was the lovely Fior d’Olivo apartments in the foothills a short drive out of the town. A beautiful place surrounded as the name suggests by olive groves, and on such a hot day we were pleased to see the welcome sight of a swimming pool. We were soon in it and cooling off, and equally welcome were the kettle and fridge in the kitchen, and hence the ability to make the first proper English cups of tea since leaving Belgium what seemed like a long time ago.
Out of the pool, and we relaxed with a few twilight glasses of Limoncello, enjoying the unmistakeable Mediterranean aroma and atmosphere of the Riviera as night fell. We’d decided to stay in, and cooked our own pasta dinner in the villa. Not the only ones eating, as the local mosquitos obviously liked the taste of British MINI drivers and we all found ourselves bitten, which would become a familiar theme over the next few days … our next supermarket purchases would need to include insect repellent.
After a late night pitched battle with a large and angry hornet, it was time for bed, ready for our onward journey up the coast tomorrow, starting with Portofino.
Day 7 – Thursday - Sestri Levante to Dolceacqua
After cooking our breakfast of Italian ham and eggs, we had to tear ourselves away from the lovely villa at Sestri Levante. With its pool and atmosphere it would have been good to stay longer. We drove down through the town and around to the end of the harbour for a few pics, then headed back along the coast road towards Portofino.
Mostly slow and urban driving, though with a few twists and tunnels, and in one place a pair of cops operating a speed trap spotted the three rather special British MINIs and waved their approval, calling out "Bella, bella!" as we passed. Fortunately we were behaving at the time.
In Rapallo we had our first encounter with the manic scooter mayhem of the Riviera; the mosquitos weren’t the only buzzing pests around here. Having heard bad things about the Portofino village car park, with lots of mentions of bumps and scrapes in online reviews, there was no way we were taking the MINIs in, so we stopped short of the village at the park and ride.
We had a little Brits Abroad comedy moment when the bus approached and we realised we were dutifully waiting on the wrong side of the road … a bit of running for the bus ensued before we were on board and fares paid. Standing room only to popular Portofino, but I had a great view up front beside the driver.
The bus ride along the twisty narrow coastal road was scenic and fun, and again made us glad we'd left the cars behind. Especially when the bus had a face off with an insistent Italian MINI on a narrow corner, with much gesticulating from both drivers. We had a wander round the harbour, took a few selfies, and looked at boats both tasteful and vulgar. Then a nice but rather expensive panini and iced coffee for an early harbourside lunch, followed by Portofino ice cream. Another bucket list item ticked off.
After bussing back to the cars, we set off back towards Rapallo and those scooters again. This time we would be using the famous coastal motorway, so after a bit of running round the cars to get our toll tickets, we were on our way. The autostrada was free running, but ahead of us was the part of the whole trip I was least looking forward to, negotiating Genoa after the bridge collapse a few weeks earlier.
Sure enough, it proved chaotic, and after about an hour of our TomToms leading us round and round in circles, we’d had enough. Switching to our phones and Google Maps, we made it through eventually as we found a way through some sketchy little backstreets until we could rejoin the motorway. Phew! Definitely the most stressful part of the whole adventure, and we were ready for a stop and a cold drink at the first services we came to. Plus a couple of Burago Abarth and Alpine models joined my small stash of souvenirs, along with a blue and tricolour “Italia” T shirt.
The next bit made up for it by being a lot of fun, the motorway passing through tunnels and over viaducts through some beautiful scenery along the Riviera, with old towns, castles and churches perched high on the hills around, and the Mediterranean off to our left. Typically Italian, and bucket list stuff again.
Nearing our next destination, so we were off the motorway and some more running round the cars at the tolls to pay again. Throughout our time in Italy the locals proved surprisingly patient while we were doing this. We had time to stop and give the three by now rather travel stained MINIs a thorough jet wash and towel dry road trip style at a petrol station, before finding our accommodation.
Although very close to the French border we weren’t leaving Italy behind quite yet. This time we’d be taking a rest from moving on and staying for two nights, so it was a pleasure to find it was another lovely place in the hills above Ventimiglia. The upper floor of a renovated villa right in the little town of Dolceacqua, with secure MINI parking out the back (though up a steep kerb).
Enjoying another English cup of tea on the balcony, we rather fell in love with the little town straight away, with its river, ancient bridges and castle on top of a hill all visible from our villa. All very Italian, and as we found when we went out for an excellent alfresco meal in the town square, not at all touristy and full of character. A late night doing some more planning, and tomorrow would see some very famous MINI roads.
Day 8 – Friday - Col de Turini!
With no need to be on the road early and moving on, our Dolceacqua villa gave us the chance of a bit of a lie in. And with a washing machine tucked away in the bathroom, the much needed opportunity to catch up on some mid road trip laundry.
Chris had decided to spend the day just chilling out in the house, but as we were just across the border from France and the legendary roads of the Monte Carlo rally, Ali and I decided to go out for some MINI fun once we were ready.
We headed up to the French border on some twisty mountain roads. Nothing on the border itself other than a sign, but not far into France we encountered a checkpoint manned by armed gendarmes. After a quick look at our MINIs they just waved us through; we’d encounter more police patrols later in the day and they were really only interested in searching larger and local cars.
Passing through the small town of Breil-sur-Roya we turned left, and were on to the climb of the Col de Bruis. Following the fab D2204 we twisted and turned to the top of the col, and a quick stop for photos. Down the other side through lots of hairpins and we rolled into Sospel, the picturesque riverside town at the foot of the Col de Turini.
The col was marked on the road signs, so after a quick stop we followed them and were on our way up. A dawdling Fiesta was dispatched on one of the few overtaking opportunities, then nothing else impeded our fast progress all the way to Moulinet and on to the top. The road was absolutely fantastic, and testing of both drivers and cars with no opportunity for taking in the views or pondering on the fact that we were in the wheel tracks of Mini legends like Hopkirk, Makinen and Aaltonen.
Just before the summit a convoy of Porsches passed in the opposite direction, with an amusing French straggler: a classic Citroen 2CV doing its utmost to keep up. We stopped at the Trois Vallees hotel for a look at all the historic rally memorabilia, including lots of Mini stuff, but this was France after all and we were just too late for lunch: kitchen closed. More Porsches in the car park, and a beautiful classic 1950s Bentley; driving that up and down the twisty roads of the col must have been quite an experience.
So after photos, we headed back down the col to Sospel, a more leisurely drive this time with stops for more pics and a chance to enjoy the mountain views. We found of all things a Spar shop in the town, so a cheap 3 EUR sandwich lunch was had by the riverside. And now French Haribo, to continue the Euro confectionary adventure.
We took another recommended road, the D2566 south out of the town towards Menton and the Riviera coast. Another good drive, though it was late afternoon by now and traffic prevented too much more fun. Technical difficulties with satnavs required a quick stop as soon as we crossed back into Italy on the coast road, a deserted customs post but an APC with armed troops in full combat gear guarding the border.
Then a cruise back along the coast into Ventimiglia, a fill up with what turned out to be some rather cheap and nasty petrol after the day’s fun had emptied our tanks, and a call to Chris to let her know we were on our way home. Loads of great roads and driving done today, but plenty more we didn’t have time for, so another MINI visit will be needed at some point.
Back in Dolceacqua, we walked into the little town again for dinner, this time crossing the ancient arched bridge to investigate an osteria on the other side in the shadow of the church. Another warm evening meant another alfresco meal for our last night in Italy, joined by a couple of friendly felines who wanted to share our pizzas. Tomorrow we would be back into France full time for the last few days of our trip.
Day 9 – Saturday - Dolceacqua to Sisteron
After our five nights enjoying Italy, its food and hospitality, if not its mosquitos and scooters, it was time for us to begin our homeward journey and start making our way up through France. Settling our bills at the Dolceacqua villa, we were seen out onto the busy Saturday morning main road by the friendly owner, and on our way back towards the coast.
Into bustling Ventimiglia and those scooters again, we were heading for the tolls to rejoin the autostrada. An eccentric and very Italian arrangement saw us have to get out to collect our tickets, then two hundred or so metres later round a bend, have to do the same to pay 2 EUR each to cover the last few motorway miles in Italy. Last time though this trip, once in France we'd be using the fast toll lanes at the peages with our electronic tags.
Back on the spectacular coastal motorway, we were soon swooping through tunnels and across bridges amongst the Mediterranean mountain scenery, re-enacting the drive seen many years ago in a Top Gear episode. Crossing the border into France, and Monaco was signed, we intended to go in for a quick look round to add another country to our list. Leaving the motorway we did a Monte Carlo MINI drive by, but as might have been expected the principality was very busy on a sunny Saturday morning. Traffic everywhere, and we didn't find anywhere safe to stop, so made do with a passing look at the luxury high rises crammed into the little country.
We got split up on the way out of Monaco, and made our own ways up through the main tunnel towards the autoroute but regrouped just before the tolls to rejoin and continue eastwards in convoy to Nice. Now turning north off the motorway and escaping the heavy Saturday morning traffic, we followed the River Var up its valley into the mountains. Road, river and rail all crossing and recrossing through high sided gorges and tunnels through the rock, another spectacular drive.
A stop at an appealing looking roadside restaurant for lunch proved abortive; Italy had been fantastic for food but we were finding French menus not really to our taste. So we made do with our own supplies and pressed on.
We turned right off the main road and took a detour towards Daluis and our next destination, the amazing Red Rocks road. Scene of many a YouTube video, this proved even more spectacular in real life. Zigzagging along the sheer side of the gorge in one direction, and blasting back through single track unlined tunnels carved through the red rock in the other, this was another fantastic drive. It seemed almost unreal, like a road from a game. A second return run for photos, and another bucket list item ticked off.
Back on the main road, the amazing scenery of the South of France continued, and the beautiful turquoise Lac de Castillon was so stunning that we had to stop for photos before continuing. Joining the N85, better known as the Route Napoleon, we made our way to Dignes. By now we were very hungry, and a McDonald's made for a welcome food and drink stop. A beautiful Porsche 356 Roadster was spotted in the adjoining supermarket car park as we went in to stock up with supplies for the evening.
It was getting late in the day now, and the sun was beginning to set as we approached Sisteron on back roads. The little town looked spectacular in the evening light with its fortress perched on a rock outcrop above the old streets, but we had a little further to go to our accommodation for the night.
This was the Gites Les Passerons, set amongst huge apple orchards a few KM north of Sisteron. Rolling down the drive to the farm, there were apple trees as far as the eye could see in all directions, as the sun set over the mountains off to the west. We were hot and tired after a long day, so after settling into our cottage, made do with a snack of French bread and cheese. A bit of route and accommodation planning for tomorrow, then time for bed.
Day 10 – Sunday - Sisteron to Bourg-en-Bresse via Lake Annecy
Waking up early and opening the blue shutters, the sky was glowing pink over the mountains to the east as the sun rose over rural France. After breakfast, a thorough tidy up of our gite to avoid paying a 30 EUR cleaning charge, then on our way, rolling out through the orchards back to the main road.
As other road trip write ups had suggested, we were finding it took much longer to get around in southern Europe than Google Maps indicated, especially as trying to keep off the motorways and stopping to enjoy the scenery. So we had decided to abandon plans to do a loop round through Albertville and the French Alps, and press on further north. An Ibis hotel in Bourg-en-Bresse had been booked for that night, as we really craved some air conditioning and a bit of personal space after a run of nights in villas, lovely as they were.
Still some good single carriageway roads on the run up from Sisteron to Grenoble, with fantastic mountain scenery and just a few camper vans and tractors to impede our progress. We were glad we hadn’t tried to do this part of the journey the previous evening as we’d originally planned, we would have been too tired to appreciate the roads and missed the scenery in darkness.
Nearing Grenoble we were back onto motorway, we would need to use the autoroutes from now on to make good progress. Although at this point it was almost empty so we were able to do some rolling shots and video with the mountains all round. No French Alps for us on this trip, as we needed to press on, but a return MINI visit to sample some of those roads is already partially planned.
After the problems finding somewhere to eat the previous day, we’d planned a stop at a McDonalds in Chambery. But a neighbouring American diner, of all things to find in France, looked rather appealing, so we went in there. Burgers cooked French style and pink weren’t very tempting, but chicken, fish and milkshakes went down well before we continued our journey past Aix-les-Bains and on to Annecy.
We took a detour at Annecy and drove through the busy town and along the south shore of the lake to our stop in the village of Duingt. A stroll down to the lakeside for photos and look at the beautiful view, before we needed to be on our way again. The public toilets were, as we’d found elsewhere in France, best described as unappealing. But a wedding reception was underway in the village hall, and judging from the line up of classic French cars outside, this was a petrolhead marriage, so we were sure they didn’t mind us using the facilities.
The lakeside road back towards Annecy was rather jammed with traffic now, as all the Sunday visitors made their way home from the lake and its leisure activities, and it took us a while to get back to and through the town and onto the motorway. North of Annecy we were very near the Swiss border, and on a downward section of autoroute towards our next junction we could see the city of Geneva and its lake spread out ahead of us, before we turned back west on the A40.
Neither Ali nor myself felt our MINIs had been running their best on the Agip petrol from our last fill up in Italy, so it was a relief to finally burn it all off cruising the autoroutes. Nearly empty tanks and a refuel near Geneva meant we were back on decent quality BP super unleaded and happy MINIs for the next leg of our journey north.
Another longish day of mostly motorway driving, but the final hour saw some more fantastic scenery and impressive infrastructure as the road passed through valleys, viaducts and tunnels at the southern end of the Jura mountains. Then we arrived in the suburbs of Bourg-en-Bresse to find our hotel. Just across the road from a massive Carrefour supermarche, so ideally situated to stock up on French goodies to take home. We weren’t that hungry after eating at lunchtime, so just had a snack for our last outdoor meal of the trip, as it was still warm into the evening.
Day 11 – Monday - Bourg-en-Bresse to Saint Quentin via Reims
Our last full day in France started with an excellent Ibis hotel breakfast for a whole 2 Euros, then across the road to that shopping centre. I do love a French supermarket, and looked longingly at the aisles of delicious cheeses and charcuterie, but made do with drinks, snacks and gifts to take home. Plus of course more Euro sweets, the Orangina Haribo were the best find of the whole trip.
Leaving the mountains and twisty roads behind us, we spent most of the day cruising across North East France on the autoroutes. Different landscapes now but still very French with rolling countryside, agriculture, and wind turbines. Armies of them in fact, as far as the eye could see. A beautiful sight against the blue sky.
And as always when driving in France, our electronic tags allowed us to liven up the motorway miles with a few MINI drag races away from the toll barriers. Childish, but never stops being fun.
Our next and final petrolhead destination in Europe was the historic Reims circuit, a bit of a cliché for British car enthusiasts on the continent, but it had to be done as we were passing. We reached Reims mid afternoon, and after photos by the famous and photogenic circuit buildings, and exploring the site, enjoyed a picnic under a shady tree. Still hot, but without the humidity from further south. Nor the mosquitos. Such an evocative place, it was easy to imagine the ghosts of 1950s GP cars tearing through, driven by legends like Moss, Fangio and Hawthorn, where trucks and traffic now hold sway on the busy road. Last bucket list item of the trip ticked off.
We’d decided to press on a further hour towards Calais, to minimise the mileage and time to the Eurotunnel terminal for our late morning train the next day. So our stop for our last night in Europe was the Campanile hotel in Saint Quentin. A rather smelly room and a very disappointing meal weren’t really the best way to end the trip, but we’d had such fantastic accommodation and nice food everywhere else we’d been on our epic journey, so it didn’t matter too much.
Day 12 – Tuesday - Saint Quentin to Calais and home
Last morning! There was no way we were going to pay the asking price for the Campanile breakfast, so we went down the road for a final French McDonalds visit before starting our last leg of the journey northwards. Just an hour and a half to go, including a final fuel stop and using up our last remaining Euros.
The weather had been amazing all the time we’d been away, shorts and T shirts the whole time, but changed dramatically in that last hour to Calais. Warm sunshine had been replaced by grey skies, drizzle and cold by the time we arrived at the tunnel terminal, as though the good old British weather had been lying in wait for us to return. We’d made good time, so were put onto an earlier train than we’d booked.
Another quick and efficient crossing, and we were disembarking at Folkestone before lunch time under more grey skies. Before venturing back onto British roads, with their heavy traffic and potholes, and remembering to drive on the left, we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways home. Already thinking about our next big MINI adventure, we’re planning to go west across the Irish Sea next summer.
(The Ireland trip didn't happen for various reasons. Maybe next year instead?)
Conclusion
And back home, the final summary … 3 friends. 3 MINIs. 12 days. 7 countries. 2615 miles. And more mountains, passes, tunnels and twisty roads than we could count.
But most of all, countless memories that will last a lifetime.
Driving the old road circuit at Spa.
A thrill ride round the Nurburgring in a 575bhp supercharged Jaguar.
The fantastic Porsche Museum at Stuttgart.
Maxing out at 152 mph on the autobahn with the Alps getting ever closer.
Down and up the Stelvio Pass.
Finally getting to see Italy ... and by MINI.
The amazing Pagani factory in Modena, plus Lamborghini and Ferrari as well.
Italian food. It didn't disappoint.
The brilliant SS63 road through the Appennines.
Drinking limoncello in the Riviera twilight.
Having lunch by the harbour in Portofino.
The Riviera coastal motorway through Italy and into France.
MINIs on the Col de Turini.
The Red Rocks Road at Daluis.
Reims circuit.
And many more.
So much driving fun, so many laughs, and all the better for doing it with friends. Thank you so much Chris and Ali for making it possible and sharing it with me. Even the weather was perfect throughout, just a few drops of rain in the mountains in Italy, and mostly hot in the early September sun.
By far the most intensive planning we've ever done for anything, exhausting at times but well worth it for the resulting amazing MINI adventure. Best trip ever.
We’d aimed for accommodation costs of around £50 per person per night, and met that target. We stayed in some lovely places, particularly in Italy, and the total cost for the twelve nights was slightly over £600. All were found through Booking.com and AirBnB. Petrol cost was £450 for the whole trip, return Eurotunnel £160, and motorway tolls around £120. So adding on food, spending money plus the luxuries like the Ring taxi lap and the supercar factories, the total cost of the whole thing came in at around £2000 each. Worth every Euro, and a few Swiss francs as well.
(Costs were for last September, the fall of the pound will have had an effect).
So if you've ever wanted to do a Euro road trip, all I can say is just do it. Hope all the words and photos have convinced you. It really is worth it.
The End … til the next time.
The words were done to my satisfaction as long ago as February, but it's taken me a while to sort out photo hosting. Hope you enjoy ...
Our own Italian Job – a MINI Euro Adventure
Day 1 – Friday - Ashford to Stavelot
A Euro road trip has always been something I’ve wanted to do, and over the past couple of years had been talking about it with a few friends from Surrey New MINI, but it never quite happened. But last summer, it did. A fairly late decision to go led to an August of intensive planning and booking, after which we were good to go at the beginning of September. Three friends and three MINIs. Two of the two thousand GP2s and a tuned and much cherished R56 JCW.
We’d stayed overnight at Ashford, as we were booked onto the 7am Eurotunnel train to give us a good start on our marathon trip across Europe. Arriving at the terminal and it was obvious that we weren’t the only petrolheads making the early crossing, with a large number of performance cars gathering for a trip to the Ring on what promised to be a warm and sunny weekend.
All went smoothly with the crossing, and we were soon off and running on French roads. Soon after crossing into Belgium we were ready for a breakfast stop, so finding no hot food on offer at a small services, we made do with what turned out to be some of the best tuna sandwiches ever, and stocked up on bags of madeleines and Haribo to sustain us for the journey. Again lots of British cars on their way to the Ring, we would be following them but with an overnight stop and a visit to Spa on the way.
Belgium was … Belgium. It felt like a slightly scruffier Britain, with rather madder driving on the motorways, and the same heavy traffic and roadworks. We’d been advised to avoid the Brussels ring road so we did, turning south for a while, then the E42 motorway eastwards towards Liege. The countryside was getting more appealing now, so we turned off onto backroads for the last leg down towards Spa.
Despite a few TomTom malfunctions, we found our way back to the main N62 and the town of Spa itself. The place names on the road signs were becoming evocative of motorsport history now, and we knew we were getting close to the circuit.
Then we were there. A Porsche track day was in progress, and as expected the gates were shut, but we took photos at the La Source entrance, then round to Eau Rouge. The road round the edge of the circuit was fantastic as we made our way round and up the hill to Les Combes and Malmedy. We could get in to the enclosure here, and spent some time watching the Porsches in action, a mix of road cars and racers preparing for a German championship meeting the next day.
Then something I’d really been looking forward to. The old parts of the full length Spa circuit are now public roads, so what to do with three fast MINIs but to drive them? The rush down the hill from Malmedy to Burnenville, the Masta straight and kink, then the right hand loop at Stavelot and the run back through the woods to where the road rejoins the current circuit just after Blanchimont. Incredibly evocative stuff, it must have been spectacular to witness the F1 and sports cars of the fifties and sixties in action here, and not to mention the skill and bravery of the driving heroes of that era.
It was late afternoon by now, so after a bit of exploration of some Ardennes back roads, we made our way to our accommodation for the night, the Domain Long Pre campsite in the woods near Stavelot. No camping for us on this trip, we’d booked some of their woodland apartments and lodges for our first night away. A meal in the restaurant, and just one strong Belgian beer as we’d be up early and driving in the morning. Next stop, the Nurburgring.
Day 2 – Saturday – Stavelot to Renningen via the Nurburgring
We left our lodgings just after dawn, and drove out into a misty Ardennes morning. Soon after crossing from Belgium into Germany on our way to the Ring, we were met by the stunning sight of wind turbines rising out of the early morning mist, backlit by the low sun. "Graceful ... like driving into heaven" as Chris described it.
This time my TomTom excelled itself and found a wonderful route for us, taking in some great roads, beautiful countryside and picturesque German villages. As we approached the Ring, it was obvious that it was going to be very busy, as the DTM German touring cars were racing on the short GP circuit that weekend. And on such a sunny morning, the Touristfahrten car park was packed with all kinds of performance cars and enthusiasts there to sample the legendary Nordschleife. Petrolhead heaven, and we just drank in the atmosphere of the place.
The sheer volume of traffic heading out onto the circuit more or less made up our minds not to take our MINIs on track and risk problems so early in our twelve day trip. As did a battered BMW M3 being recovered on a trailer. But we had something exciting booked anyway; a passenger lap in the 575bhp supercharged Jaguar Race Taxi, driven by Ring legend Dale Lomas.
Dale suspected the track was about to close due to an incident, so quickly accelerated us out on to the circuit. Traffic was heavy, but in such expert hands the two tonne limo was soon carving its way past Porsches and BMWs, diving into corners as the track rose and fell. Apparently a new set of brake pads is required every two days … The elevation changes were quite an experience, like a roller coaster through the Eifel countryside, and not something that watching videos or playing driving games had prepared us for.
Only one car passed us during our lap, a GT3RS making a beautiful noise as it yowled past at high revs soon after Bergwerk. Round the Karussell, into the last section of the lap, and all too soon we were on the final straight, the traffic slowing as the circuit closed as predicted, to recover a yellow Porsche from the barriers mid way round.
After our lap we were hungry, so delicious bacon and eggs followed at the Devil’s Diner overlooking the action on the track. We did pull up try to get a photo with the famous Ring sign, but the area was very busy due to the race meeting, and a police car was straight onto the back of our little convoy of MINIs with a warning blast of siren almost as we stopped moving. So a visit to the souvenir shop, a fill up at the famous Ring ED petrol station despite all the pushy locals, a stock up with German Haribo and then we were ready to head south towards Stuttgart and our next overnight stop. But the Ring had worked its magic on us, and we hope to be back for a longer visit, and to drive it ourselves. Maybe next summer? It is our club’s tenth birthday after all.
(The return to the Ring did happen. Just back from another excellent road trip, but that's another story).
And the first occurrence of someone trying to get into the wrong GP2 happened at a services just after Hockenheim. Well they do all look the same, and it wouldn’t be the last time this trip.
The autobahns were quite busy on a Saturday afternoon, and there were lots of roadworks, but towards the end of our journey past Pforzheim the traffic cleared enough for some intermittent high speed running on a derestricted section. 140mph was seen, but we knew there was more to come tomorrow if we got the opportunity …
Our accommodation for the night was the very new and very comfortable Hotel Campo at Renningen. An out of town business park location meant some very MINI friendly parking, and we were far enough south now for it to be warm enough to enjoy a delicious German meal outside on the terrace. Currywurst! And close to Stuttgart, ready for some Porsche related goodness first thing in the morning.
Day 3 – Sunday - Renningen to Santa Maria
Leaving the hotel after breakfast, we had a short drive into Stuttgart, and Zuffenhausen, the district best known as the home of Porsche. Cruising down the strasse with the factory buildings on either side of us, we could see our destination ahead of us; the Porsche Museum, marked by massive Goodwood Festival style sculptures on the roundabout outside. We’d timed our arrival perfectly, and were soon in the clean and brilliantly lit underground car park.
Coach parties were starting to arrive as well, so we headed straight into the museum. This was fantastic, one of the best I’ve been to, with plenty of legendary road and race cars on display in a stunning multi level modern building, and lots of German attention to detail. Personal favourites were the line up of 917s in classic liveries: Gulf, Martini and Pink Pig, plus my lottery win car, a 911R, which visitors were invited to sit in for photos. No charge; things wouldn’t be quite the same when we got to Ferrari in Maranello.
We had fun playing with some of the audiovisual experiences, in particular the one with a GT3RS loud pedal and rev counter. Probably the only chance I’ll get to make one sing up to its red line. A few rounds of Porsche table football resulted in one win apiece, then the gift shop had to be visited. What I really wanted was one of the Porsche houndstooth check bean bags from a rest area, but these definitely weren’t for sale, so made do with a fridge magnet and a model GT3RS in Miami Blue. All very reasonably priced too, another thing which wouldn’t be the same in Modena.
Leaving the Porsche quarter of the city behind with a quick McDonalds stop, we headed across town to MINI Stuttgart for a look round and maybe some souvenirs. But the dealership was virtually deserted on a Sunday lunchtime, with only a friendly security guard to show us around. So after taking photos, we needed to be on our way, with a long journey across four countries ahead of us.
We would find many times during the trip that TomToms are not really all that happy with complex junctions around European cities, but after a couple of close calls we were on the autobahn and heading south. As with Belgium and the day before, the motorways did rather remind us of home. No opportunities to go fast due to heavy traffic and lots of roadworks, and at one point a long back roads detour to avoid a massive traffic jam. But eventually we were back on the autobahn and at last it was free flowing, with our first sight of mountains on the horizon. Just in time for some fun.
With the Alps looming ever closer, and the caravans and motorhomes finally getting out of our way, it was time for a bit of high speed running on the last section of derestricted A7 autobahn down to the Austrian border. Vmax was a GPS indicated 152 mph on a slight right hand curve, so there might have been a little more left in a straight line. Both GP2 drivers could really feel the aero working as intended and keeping things stable at that speed, which you don't really notice at UK motorway pace.
Crossing the border at the Fussen tunnel, we needed a fill up at the Shell station after all that fast driving, and were happy to find that V Power in Austria is 100 RON. More Euro sweets were purchased, along with our Austrian motorway toll permits, then we headed south into the Alps.
Mostly single carriageway roads weren’t fast after the previous section of our journey, but the mountain scenery was spectacular, with lakes, dams, tunnels and alpine buildings all round. Though at least we kept moving, as heading the other way was maybe the longest traffic jam we’d ever seen, as what seemed to be most of the population of southern Germany headed slowly back towards the border and home after a weekend in the mountains.
Passing through the Landecker tunnel, the longest we’d encountered since the Channel, we continued south, and after a couple of hours in Austria reached another border. We’d made it to Italy! Our first stop on Italian soil was the beautiful Reschensee, a lake backed by mountains. A friendly photographer taking an interest in our cars turned out to be a Polish petrolhead who’d worked for MINI in the early 2000s, and we exchanged Instagram details and road trip tales. He was going on ahead of us and taking the same route we’d be doing in the morning, over the Umbrail and Stelvio passes.
By now the sun was setting and nightfall was imminent after a long day, so we pressed on the final thirty miles towards Switzerland and our stop for the night. Despite crossing five countries on our journey, we encountered our first obvious border and customs post since Folkestone as we crossed into Swiss territory just a few miles before our destination. It was now getting dark on a Sunday evening, and after a cursory glance we were waved straight through.
This time we’d gone for a traditional hotel, the Hotel Crusch Alba in Santa Maria val Mustair, chosen mainly for its location at the foot of the Umbrail pass. A lovely old building with a sense of history and wood panelled rooms, though the parking arrangements weren’t as promised, and our MINIs ended up tucked wherever we could around the hotel. The locals definitely didn’t appreciate MINI exhaust and engine sounds as we got sorted out. A friendly hostess, and some delicious local food just before the kitchen closed… and a signpost to the Umbrail and Stelvio passes visible from my window pointed the way we’d be going early the next morning and made for sweet MINI dreams.
Day 4 – Monday - Santa Maria to Cavalcaselle via the Stelvio
The little town and its narrow streets turned out to be not quite as sleepy as it had appeared on Sunday night, located as it was on the only main route into the eastern end of Switzerland from Italy. As dawn broke we could hear plenty of traffic passing through, and had to be careful loading up and preparing our MINIs for what promised to be a very good day indeed. We looked longingly at what was obviously going to be an excellent Swiss breakfast, but had to pass on it and make do with a coffee to go as we needed to be on our way to enjoy the passes before they got too busy.
Turning left out of town we were almost straight away onto the climb of the Umbrail pass. Twists and turns up through the forests and pastures and the sound of cowbells all around made it clear where we were and added to the Swiss Alpine atmosphere. Out of the trees and onto the sparser slopes of the mountains, and we reached the top, crossing back into Italy at a deserted border post.
A quick stop for photos and to add our Surrey New MINI sticker to the many on the sign, and we were now onto one of the most famous passes, and a bucket list item for all of us: Stelvio. Climbing the last few miles to the summit, we didn’t stop at the cluster of shops, hotels and cafes but kept going down the eastern side. This was the really well known bit now; hairpin followed hairpin followed hairpin on the long descent to the valley floor, and by the time we reached the bottom and the village of Trafoi, MINI brakes were very hot and squeaky.
So we took a break to allow them to cool down, have a look round and admire the village and surrounding scenery, before starting the climb back to the top. Traffic was starting to build now, and the first few cyclists were out tackling the pass, so we took it easy and made a few stops for photos on the way up. We were really ready for a late breakfast now, so back at the top found a café with an outside terrace to admire the views while eating. Pizza for breakfast? Well we were now in Italy for the next few days, so why not? It was a bit chilly, probably the coldest it would be the whole trip, with patches of snow on the ground in places, but this would change as we headed down further into the late summer heat of Italy.
We had a further four or five hours of driving ahead of us, so late morning we were on our way again, this time down the western side of the Stelvio to the town of Bormio. More great roads and amazing scenery, though there was too much traffic by now to fully enjoy the former. Then a long journey down through the mountains via Tirano and Edolo … and tunnels. So many tunnels, we never thought as MINI drivers that we could ever get bored with tunnels, but they were starting to drag a bit. Then, in a brief spell of daylight between miles of underground gloom, we spotted a beautiful lake off to our right.
So next turning to the right, we took it, and found ourselves cruising into the small town of Marone on the shores of Lake Iseo. A sign to a lakeside car park down a narrow track, and we were at a little harbour. Out of the cars and their air con, the day was scorching hot now, so after photos of the lake and its mountain backdrop, we found shade outside a café for a much needed cold drink. Some very tempting strawberry sundaes featured on the menu, so we had to have our first taste of Italian gelato before getting back on the road. And straight into more tunnels …
We’d been in Italy most of the day, but our first encounter with some stereotypically crazy Italian driving came on the busy main roads around Brescia. In the heavy traffic the three MINIs got split up for the first time during the trip, but we all made our way safely to our regroup point in Desenzano del Garda. Just time for another ice cream and a look at the beautiful Lake Garda, then leaving Desenzano we had an laugh out loud moment when the Italian equivalent of Wallace and Gromit joined in the middle of our MINI convoy: a man on a motorbike with a large and shaggy dog in the sidecar. Cracking! And very appropriate for such A Grand Day Out.
We couldn’t stay long at the lake as we had to be on our way to make check in time at our accommodation for the night. This was the stunning Villa Montenero in Cavalcaselle, and we knew as we rolled down the tree lined drive that it was going to be a good one. Spacious and undercover MINI parking, a friendly welcome in a beautifully modernised villa, tasteful and comfortable rooms, and blissfully cold air conditioning on a hot late summer day. And a swimming pool, though we wouldn’t have time for that at this stop. Hugely recommended if you’re in the area, and I’d love to go back.
After showering and watching our first Italian sunset over the villa gates, we headed out into the town to a recommended restaurant for an alfresco meal. Almost too much to choose from, but the menu featured a dried beef pizza named the Stelvio, so after such an epic day, that had to be ordered. Then back to the villa and its superb rooms to do some planning for tomorrow: Modena, and supercars.
Day 5 – Tuesday - Cavalcaselle to Castellerano via Modena
We woke refreshed in our lovely cool rooms, with the aromas of something delicious being prepared for breakfast downstairs. Though early, the morning was already warm, and the table had been set for us to eat outside. Italian coffee, breads and pastries made for a great start to the day, and it would have been nice to linger in such a lovely setting, but we had a couple of hours drive ahead of us to Modena via back roads to an appointment at Pagani, so had to be on our way.
Bearing in mind this was just a few weeks after the bridge collapse tragedy in Genoa, some of the creaks and groans from a flyover on the bypass round Mantua were not very confidence inspiring, and neither was the sensation of movement when stopped on it in heavy traffic. It was quite a relief to get off and onto more minor roads south towards Modena. Although these had their moments too; at one point the road had almost subsided into the canal running alongside it, resulting in some very severe camber and the need to drive on the British side of the road in places.
Again we got split up in heavy traffic on the outskirts of Modena, but we were close to our first destination, the Pagani factory, and made our own way there. Located on an industrial estate, we knew we were in the right area when a Huayra roadster appeared, giving it the beans in the opposite direction. Parked outside the factory gates, the trio of well travelled British MINIs attracted a lot of interest and attention from the workforce out on smoking breaks – it may have been Italy, but as we were about to find out, Horacio’s fastidious attention to detail would not have permitted a crafty fag whilst at work.
We browsed the shop whilst waiting for our tour; the merchandise was expensive but beautifully designed and tasteful. Not all of these qualities would be evident at our next two destinations. The factory tour was excellent, one of the best I’ve done, showing us production and servicing taking place in a building combining both modern and mediaeval Italian architecture, and everywhere immaculately clean and tidy. Particular attention was given to that Pagani trademark, the exquisite carbon fibre work, and we were allowed to handle some of the beautifully shaped lightweight components. Even the washbasins and other fittings in the toilets were made from it.
The museum covered all of Horacio’s career from his youth in South America, to his work for Lamborghini and then in his own name. A good selection of his cars on display, including his first Formula Renault single seater, and the original Zonda, nicknamed Grandma, which has now covered over a quarter of a million kilometres of testing whilst being continually updated and upgraded, but still looks new.
It was by now a very hot day, so after buying a few bottles of Pagani water to keep us hydrated, we set off into the traffic towards our next destination, Maranello. Our first Italian fuel stop en route proved entertaining as it took all three of us to work out the complexities of pay at the pump Italian style. Maranello itself was very busy; we had thought of trying to get a MINI group photo at the famous Ferrari factory entrance, but this proved impossible. We did however manage to line up in three adjoining spaces in the packed car park at the Museo Ferrari.
There were some lovely cars on display in the museum, and the F1 room was impressive, but overall it was slightly disappointing and to my mind not as detailed or in depth as the Ferrari exhibition at the Design Museum in Kensington last winter. And some of the Prancing Horse tat on sale in the shop gave us a good laugh. Indeed much of Maranello gave the impression of being intended to separate tourists from their Euros, but we kind of knew that would be the case before we went, and it would have felt wrong to drive all the way to Modena and not do it. The best thing about the place was the general atmosphere; steeped in history, and all sorts of little workshops and businesses with Ferraris out and about for test drives or under repair.
After a late lunch we went our separate ways; one on to our accommodation in the hills above Castellerano, and the other two of us headed back across Modena and out towards Bologna to our last supercar destination of the day: the Lamborghini factory at Sant’Agata. Being turned away from the factory car park didn’t make a good first impression, and we had to make do with a congested and slightly dubious parking lot down the road.
But once inside the factory this turned out to be another great tour. More traditional assembly line stuff than Pagani, but lovely to see both Huracans and Aventadors being built, and hearing them fire up for the very first time. The latter included a few SVJs, and it was fun trying to spot cars heading for the UK market, as well as seeing all the customisable options available. The museum was excellent as well, with a full range of Lambos across the years, including a Veneno, and as a longtime F1 fan it was good to see one of the rare Lambo grand prix cars I remembered from the early nineties. Apparently Ayrton Senna was impressed with the V12 when he tested it in a McLaren.
Once again the shop was full of expensive things I didn’t want, and indeed the whole thing must be quite a money spinner for the company, with multiple tours ongoing all the time. And even a Mini connection here, with a stunning orange Miura in the film themed exhibition representing the original classic Italian Job movie.
By the time we left Lambo it was rush hour Italian style in Modena, which made for an interesting experience and a somewhat stressful hour or so drive back across the city to find our place to stay. Out of Castellerano, up into the hills onto country roads and the traffic disappeared, and we arrived at our golf club apartments hot and hungry. Fortunately Chris, having gone on ahead, had switched on all our air con full blast, so after a shower we set off to find the nearest village and somewhere to eat. A nice pizza and seafood restaurant was found, very much a rural place used by the locals, and after an initial struggle to translate the menu, another delicious meal followed. Though none of us were brave enough to try the fried frogs on offer.
Back along dark and twisty country roads, and a bit more planning before bed. Tomorrow would hopefully see more relaxed driving than today as we made our way to the coast.
Day 6 – Wednesday - Castellerano to Sestri Levante
After a hectic day around Modena, we were looking forward to a more relaxed one as we headed down to the coast. It started with another excellent and chilled out Italian breakfast, this time in the fantastic and airy main room of the clubhouse at our golf club accommodation. Another very warm and sunny morning, and we had great views of the course and surrounding scenery in the hills above Modena from the full length windows, and even time for a spot of piano practice.
Leaving the golf club around ten, we rolled through the Italian countryside on some little back roads with virtually no traffic, then joined the SS63 for the remainder of our journey towards the coast. Though a main road, there was still very little traffic away from the towns, and progress was good.
We were approaching the Appennines now, and the section onwards from Cerreto Alpi was particularly enjoyable. Though not as high as the Alps, some lovely wooded mountain scenery and roads we had almost to ourselves made for another great drive. After crossing into Tuscany a wonderful sequence of corners and elevation changes seemed never ending, and could have been made for MINIs. We took a break at the tiny village of Pieve San Paulo to give our brakes a rest, have an ice cream from a sleepy local restaurant and admire the picturesque church before continuing on our way.
As with all our driving in Italy so far, we avoided the toll autostrada which could often be sighted taking a parallel course, and turning north west took the wonderfully twisty and hilly SS1 Via Aurelia just inland from the Cinque Terre coast. Not the fastest route, but definitely the most fun, especially on the Passo del Bracco, and by the time we arrived at the resort town of Sestri Levante, MINI brakes were once again hot and squeaky.
After a supermarket stop for supplies, we made our way to our Riviera accommodation for the night. This was the lovely Fior d’Olivo apartments in the foothills a short drive out of the town. A beautiful place surrounded as the name suggests by olive groves, and on such a hot day we were pleased to see the welcome sight of a swimming pool. We were soon in it and cooling off, and equally welcome were the kettle and fridge in the kitchen, and hence the ability to make the first proper English cups of tea since leaving Belgium what seemed like a long time ago.
Out of the pool, and we relaxed with a few twilight glasses of Limoncello, enjoying the unmistakeable Mediterranean aroma and atmosphere of the Riviera as night fell. We’d decided to stay in, and cooked our own pasta dinner in the villa. Not the only ones eating, as the local mosquitos obviously liked the taste of British MINI drivers and we all found ourselves bitten, which would become a familiar theme over the next few days … our next supermarket purchases would need to include insect repellent.
After a late night pitched battle with a large and angry hornet, it was time for bed, ready for our onward journey up the coast tomorrow, starting with Portofino.
Day 7 – Thursday - Sestri Levante to Dolceacqua
After cooking our breakfast of Italian ham and eggs, we had to tear ourselves away from the lovely villa at Sestri Levante. With its pool and atmosphere it would have been good to stay longer. We drove down through the town and around to the end of the harbour for a few pics, then headed back along the coast road towards Portofino.
Mostly slow and urban driving, though with a few twists and tunnels, and in one place a pair of cops operating a speed trap spotted the three rather special British MINIs and waved their approval, calling out "Bella, bella!" as we passed. Fortunately we were behaving at the time.
In Rapallo we had our first encounter with the manic scooter mayhem of the Riviera; the mosquitos weren’t the only buzzing pests around here. Having heard bad things about the Portofino village car park, with lots of mentions of bumps and scrapes in online reviews, there was no way we were taking the MINIs in, so we stopped short of the village at the park and ride.
We had a little Brits Abroad comedy moment when the bus approached and we realised we were dutifully waiting on the wrong side of the road … a bit of running for the bus ensued before we were on board and fares paid. Standing room only to popular Portofino, but I had a great view up front beside the driver.
The bus ride along the twisty narrow coastal road was scenic and fun, and again made us glad we'd left the cars behind. Especially when the bus had a face off with an insistent Italian MINI on a narrow corner, with much gesticulating from both drivers. We had a wander round the harbour, took a few selfies, and looked at boats both tasteful and vulgar. Then a nice but rather expensive panini and iced coffee for an early harbourside lunch, followed by Portofino ice cream. Another bucket list item ticked off.
After bussing back to the cars, we set off back towards Rapallo and those scooters again. This time we would be using the famous coastal motorway, so after a bit of running round the cars to get our toll tickets, we were on our way. The autostrada was free running, but ahead of us was the part of the whole trip I was least looking forward to, negotiating Genoa after the bridge collapse a few weeks earlier.
Sure enough, it proved chaotic, and after about an hour of our TomToms leading us round and round in circles, we’d had enough. Switching to our phones and Google Maps, we made it through eventually as we found a way through some sketchy little backstreets until we could rejoin the motorway. Phew! Definitely the most stressful part of the whole adventure, and we were ready for a stop and a cold drink at the first services we came to. Plus a couple of Burago Abarth and Alpine models joined my small stash of souvenirs, along with a blue and tricolour “Italia” T shirt.
The next bit made up for it by being a lot of fun, the motorway passing through tunnels and over viaducts through some beautiful scenery along the Riviera, with old towns, castles and churches perched high on the hills around, and the Mediterranean off to our left. Typically Italian, and bucket list stuff again.
Nearing our next destination, so we were off the motorway and some more running round the cars at the tolls to pay again. Throughout our time in Italy the locals proved surprisingly patient while we were doing this. We had time to stop and give the three by now rather travel stained MINIs a thorough jet wash and towel dry road trip style at a petrol station, before finding our accommodation.
Although very close to the French border we weren’t leaving Italy behind quite yet. This time we’d be taking a rest from moving on and staying for two nights, so it was a pleasure to find it was another lovely place in the hills above Ventimiglia. The upper floor of a renovated villa right in the little town of Dolceacqua, with secure MINI parking out the back (though up a steep kerb).
Enjoying another English cup of tea on the balcony, we rather fell in love with the little town straight away, with its river, ancient bridges and castle on top of a hill all visible from our villa. All very Italian, and as we found when we went out for an excellent alfresco meal in the town square, not at all touristy and full of character. A late night doing some more planning, and tomorrow would see some very famous MINI roads.
Day 8 – Friday - Col de Turini!
With no need to be on the road early and moving on, our Dolceacqua villa gave us the chance of a bit of a lie in. And with a washing machine tucked away in the bathroom, the much needed opportunity to catch up on some mid road trip laundry.
Chris had decided to spend the day just chilling out in the house, but as we were just across the border from France and the legendary roads of the Monte Carlo rally, Ali and I decided to go out for some MINI fun once we were ready.
We headed up to the French border on some twisty mountain roads. Nothing on the border itself other than a sign, but not far into France we encountered a checkpoint manned by armed gendarmes. After a quick look at our MINIs they just waved us through; we’d encounter more police patrols later in the day and they were really only interested in searching larger and local cars.
Passing through the small town of Breil-sur-Roya we turned left, and were on to the climb of the Col de Bruis. Following the fab D2204 we twisted and turned to the top of the col, and a quick stop for photos. Down the other side through lots of hairpins and we rolled into Sospel, the picturesque riverside town at the foot of the Col de Turini.
The col was marked on the road signs, so after a quick stop we followed them and were on our way up. A dawdling Fiesta was dispatched on one of the few overtaking opportunities, then nothing else impeded our fast progress all the way to Moulinet and on to the top. The road was absolutely fantastic, and testing of both drivers and cars with no opportunity for taking in the views or pondering on the fact that we were in the wheel tracks of Mini legends like Hopkirk, Makinen and Aaltonen.
Just before the summit a convoy of Porsches passed in the opposite direction, with an amusing French straggler: a classic Citroen 2CV doing its utmost to keep up. We stopped at the Trois Vallees hotel for a look at all the historic rally memorabilia, including lots of Mini stuff, but this was France after all and we were just too late for lunch: kitchen closed. More Porsches in the car park, and a beautiful classic 1950s Bentley; driving that up and down the twisty roads of the col must have been quite an experience.
So after photos, we headed back down the col to Sospel, a more leisurely drive this time with stops for more pics and a chance to enjoy the mountain views. We found of all things a Spar shop in the town, so a cheap 3 EUR sandwich lunch was had by the riverside. And now French Haribo, to continue the Euro confectionary adventure.
We took another recommended road, the D2566 south out of the town towards Menton and the Riviera coast. Another good drive, though it was late afternoon by now and traffic prevented too much more fun. Technical difficulties with satnavs required a quick stop as soon as we crossed back into Italy on the coast road, a deserted customs post but an APC with armed troops in full combat gear guarding the border.
Then a cruise back along the coast into Ventimiglia, a fill up with what turned out to be some rather cheap and nasty petrol after the day’s fun had emptied our tanks, and a call to Chris to let her know we were on our way home. Loads of great roads and driving done today, but plenty more we didn’t have time for, so another MINI visit will be needed at some point.
Back in Dolceacqua, we walked into the little town again for dinner, this time crossing the ancient arched bridge to investigate an osteria on the other side in the shadow of the church. Another warm evening meant another alfresco meal for our last night in Italy, joined by a couple of friendly felines who wanted to share our pizzas. Tomorrow we would be back into France full time for the last few days of our trip.
Day 9 – Saturday - Dolceacqua to Sisteron
After our five nights enjoying Italy, its food and hospitality, if not its mosquitos and scooters, it was time for us to begin our homeward journey and start making our way up through France. Settling our bills at the Dolceacqua villa, we were seen out onto the busy Saturday morning main road by the friendly owner, and on our way back towards the coast.
Into bustling Ventimiglia and those scooters again, we were heading for the tolls to rejoin the autostrada. An eccentric and very Italian arrangement saw us have to get out to collect our tickets, then two hundred or so metres later round a bend, have to do the same to pay 2 EUR each to cover the last few motorway miles in Italy. Last time though this trip, once in France we'd be using the fast toll lanes at the peages with our electronic tags.
Back on the spectacular coastal motorway, we were soon swooping through tunnels and across bridges amongst the Mediterranean mountain scenery, re-enacting the drive seen many years ago in a Top Gear episode. Crossing the border into France, and Monaco was signed, we intended to go in for a quick look round to add another country to our list. Leaving the motorway we did a Monte Carlo MINI drive by, but as might have been expected the principality was very busy on a sunny Saturday morning. Traffic everywhere, and we didn't find anywhere safe to stop, so made do with a passing look at the luxury high rises crammed into the little country.
We got split up on the way out of Monaco, and made our own ways up through the main tunnel towards the autoroute but regrouped just before the tolls to rejoin and continue eastwards in convoy to Nice. Now turning north off the motorway and escaping the heavy Saturday morning traffic, we followed the River Var up its valley into the mountains. Road, river and rail all crossing and recrossing through high sided gorges and tunnels through the rock, another spectacular drive.
A stop at an appealing looking roadside restaurant for lunch proved abortive; Italy had been fantastic for food but we were finding French menus not really to our taste. So we made do with our own supplies and pressed on.
We turned right off the main road and took a detour towards Daluis and our next destination, the amazing Red Rocks road. Scene of many a YouTube video, this proved even more spectacular in real life. Zigzagging along the sheer side of the gorge in one direction, and blasting back through single track unlined tunnels carved through the red rock in the other, this was another fantastic drive. It seemed almost unreal, like a road from a game. A second return run for photos, and another bucket list item ticked off.
Back on the main road, the amazing scenery of the South of France continued, and the beautiful turquoise Lac de Castillon was so stunning that we had to stop for photos before continuing. Joining the N85, better known as the Route Napoleon, we made our way to Dignes. By now we were very hungry, and a McDonald's made for a welcome food and drink stop. A beautiful Porsche 356 Roadster was spotted in the adjoining supermarket car park as we went in to stock up with supplies for the evening.
It was getting late in the day now, and the sun was beginning to set as we approached Sisteron on back roads. The little town looked spectacular in the evening light with its fortress perched on a rock outcrop above the old streets, but we had a little further to go to our accommodation for the night.
This was the Gites Les Passerons, set amongst huge apple orchards a few KM north of Sisteron. Rolling down the drive to the farm, there were apple trees as far as the eye could see in all directions, as the sun set over the mountains off to the west. We were hot and tired after a long day, so after settling into our cottage, made do with a snack of French bread and cheese. A bit of route and accommodation planning for tomorrow, then time for bed.
Day 10 – Sunday - Sisteron to Bourg-en-Bresse via Lake Annecy
Waking up early and opening the blue shutters, the sky was glowing pink over the mountains to the east as the sun rose over rural France. After breakfast, a thorough tidy up of our gite to avoid paying a 30 EUR cleaning charge, then on our way, rolling out through the orchards back to the main road.
As other road trip write ups had suggested, we were finding it took much longer to get around in southern Europe than Google Maps indicated, especially as trying to keep off the motorways and stopping to enjoy the scenery. So we had decided to abandon plans to do a loop round through Albertville and the French Alps, and press on further north. An Ibis hotel in Bourg-en-Bresse had been booked for that night, as we really craved some air conditioning and a bit of personal space after a run of nights in villas, lovely as they were.
Still some good single carriageway roads on the run up from Sisteron to Grenoble, with fantastic mountain scenery and just a few camper vans and tractors to impede our progress. We were glad we hadn’t tried to do this part of the journey the previous evening as we’d originally planned, we would have been too tired to appreciate the roads and missed the scenery in darkness.
Nearing Grenoble we were back onto motorway, we would need to use the autoroutes from now on to make good progress. Although at this point it was almost empty so we were able to do some rolling shots and video with the mountains all round. No French Alps for us on this trip, as we needed to press on, but a return MINI visit to sample some of those roads is already partially planned.
After the problems finding somewhere to eat the previous day, we’d planned a stop at a McDonalds in Chambery. But a neighbouring American diner, of all things to find in France, looked rather appealing, so we went in there. Burgers cooked French style and pink weren’t very tempting, but chicken, fish and milkshakes went down well before we continued our journey past Aix-les-Bains and on to Annecy.
We took a detour at Annecy and drove through the busy town and along the south shore of the lake to our stop in the village of Duingt. A stroll down to the lakeside for photos and look at the beautiful view, before we needed to be on our way again. The public toilets were, as we’d found elsewhere in France, best described as unappealing. But a wedding reception was underway in the village hall, and judging from the line up of classic French cars outside, this was a petrolhead marriage, so we were sure they didn’t mind us using the facilities.
The lakeside road back towards Annecy was rather jammed with traffic now, as all the Sunday visitors made their way home from the lake and its leisure activities, and it took us a while to get back to and through the town and onto the motorway. North of Annecy we were very near the Swiss border, and on a downward section of autoroute towards our next junction we could see the city of Geneva and its lake spread out ahead of us, before we turned back west on the A40.
Neither Ali nor myself felt our MINIs had been running their best on the Agip petrol from our last fill up in Italy, so it was a relief to finally burn it all off cruising the autoroutes. Nearly empty tanks and a refuel near Geneva meant we were back on decent quality BP super unleaded and happy MINIs for the next leg of our journey north.
Another longish day of mostly motorway driving, but the final hour saw some more fantastic scenery and impressive infrastructure as the road passed through valleys, viaducts and tunnels at the southern end of the Jura mountains. Then we arrived in the suburbs of Bourg-en-Bresse to find our hotel. Just across the road from a massive Carrefour supermarche, so ideally situated to stock up on French goodies to take home. We weren’t that hungry after eating at lunchtime, so just had a snack for our last outdoor meal of the trip, as it was still warm into the evening.
Day 11 – Monday - Bourg-en-Bresse to Saint Quentin via Reims
Our last full day in France started with an excellent Ibis hotel breakfast for a whole 2 Euros, then across the road to that shopping centre. I do love a French supermarket, and looked longingly at the aisles of delicious cheeses and charcuterie, but made do with drinks, snacks and gifts to take home. Plus of course more Euro sweets, the Orangina Haribo were the best find of the whole trip.
Leaving the mountains and twisty roads behind us, we spent most of the day cruising across North East France on the autoroutes. Different landscapes now but still very French with rolling countryside, agriculture, and wind turbines. Armies of them in fact, as far as the eye could see. A beautiful sight against the blue sky.
And as always when driving in France, our electronic tags allowed us to liven up the motorway miles with a few MINI drag races away from the toll barriers. Childish, but never stops being fun.
Our next and final petrolhead destination in Europe was the historic Reims circuit, a bit of a cliché for British car enthusiasts on the continent, but it had to be done as we were passing. We reached Reims mid afternoon, and after photos by the famous and photogenic circuit buildings, and exploring the site, enjoyed a picnic under a shady tree. Still hot, but without the humidity from further south. Nor the mosquitos. Such an evocative place, it was easy to imagine the ghosts of 1950s GP cars tearing through, driven by legends like Moss, Fangio and Hawthorn, where trucks and traffic now hold sway on the busy road. Last bucket list item of the trip ticked off.
We’d decided to press on a further hour towards Calais, to minimise the mileage and time to the Eurotunnel terminal for our late morning train the next day. So our stop for our last night in Europe was the Campanile hotel in Saint Quentin. A rather smelly room and a very disappointing meal weren’t really the best way to end the trip, but we’d had such fantastic accommodation and nice food everywhere else we’d been on our epic journey, so it didn’t matter too much.
Day 12 – Tuesday - Saint Quentin to Calais and home
Last morning! There was no way we were going to pay the asking price for the Campanile breakfast, so we went down the road for a final French McDonalds visit before starting our last leg of the journey northwards. Just an hour and a half to go, including a final fuel stop and using up our last remaining Euros.
The weather had been amazing all the time we’d been away, shorts and T shirts the whole time, but changed dramatically in that last hour to Calais. Warm sunshine had been replaced by grey skies, drizzle and cold by the time we arrived at the tunnel terminal, as though the good old British weather had been lying in wait for us to return. We’d made good time, so were put onto an earlier train than we’d booked.
Another quick and efficient crossing, and we were disembarking at Folkestone before lunch time under more grey skies. Before venturing back onto British roads, with their heavy traffic and potholes, and remembering to drive on the left, we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways home. Already thinking about our next big MINI adventure, we’re planning to go west across the Irish Sea next summer.
(The Ireland trip didn't happen for various reasons. Maybe next year instead?)
Conclusion
And back home, the final summary … 3 friends. 3 MINIs. 12 days. 7 countries. 2615 miles. And more mountains, passes, tunnels and twisty roads than we could count.
But most of all, countless memories that will last a lifetime.
Driving the old road circuit at Spa.
A thrill ride round the Nurburgring in a 575bhp supercharged Jaguar.
The fantastic Porsche Museum at Stuttgart.
Maxing out at 152 mph on the autobahn with the Alps getting ever closer.
Down and up the Stelvio Pass.
Finally getting to see Italy ... and by MINI.
The amazing Pagani factory in Modena, plus Lamborghini and Ferrari as well.
Italian food. It didn't disappoint.
The brilliant SS63 road through the Appennines.
Drinking limoncello in the Riviera twilight.
Having lunch by the harbour in Portofino.
The Riviera coastal motorway through Italy and into France.
MINIs on the Col de Turini.
The Red Rocks Road at Daluis.
Reims circuit.
And many more.
So much driving fun, so many laughs, and all the better for doing it with friends. Thank you so much Chris and Ali for making it possible and sharing it with me. Even the weather was perfect throughout, just a few drops of rain in the mountains in Italy, and mostly hot in the early September sun.
By far the most intensive planning we've ever done for anything, exhausting at times but well worth it for the resulting amazing MINI adventure. Best trip ever.
We’d aimed for accommodation costs of around £50 per person per night, and met that target. We stayed in some lovely places, particularly in Italy, and the total cost for the twelve nights was slightly over £600. All were found through Booking.com and AirBnB. Petrol cost was £450 for the whole trip, return Eurotunnel £160, and motorway tolls around £120. So adding on food, spending money plus the luxuries like the Ring taxi lap and the supercar factories, the total cost of the whole thing came in at around £2000 each. Worth every Euro, and a few Swiss francs as well.
(Costs were for last September, the fall of the pound will have had an effect).
So if you've ever wanted to do a Euro road trip, all I can say is just do it. Hope all the words and photos have convinced you. It really is worth it.
The End … til the next time.
We did a similar group trip to almost all the same locations around 10 years ago, I had a WRX at the time.
Your travel post has brought back some great memories thanks
I also did a solo trip to the Porsche museum a couple of months back when I was working over there for a while, expected very little but found it to be a superb museum and well worth a visit. Shame I didn't arrange a factory tour too but I'll definitely go back some time.
Your travel post has brought back some great memories thanks
I also did a solo trip to the Porsche museum a couple of months back when I was working over there for a while, expected very little but found it to be a superb museum and well worth a visit. Shame I didn't arrange a factory tour too but I'll definitely go back some time.
visitinglondon said:
Imagine how good the trip would have been in a decent car, not a boring “MINI” (which shares none of the character or verve of a proper mini).
Imagine how good this thread would be, without knob heads like you spouting negative comments about.Really enjoyed the write up OP, did a Euro trip myself back in May, albeit focusing on the mountains. We did visit Reschensee though (very windy), and did a night at Garda and hit up the Mille Miglia in Brescia, also swung by the Ring on the way home, so a few common destinations!
Kewy said:
visitinglondon said:
Imagine how good the trip would have been in a decent car, not a boring “MINI” (which shares none of the character or verve of a proper mini).
Imagine how good this thread would be, without knob heads like you spouting negative comments about.Really enjoyed the write up OP, did a Euro trip myself back in May, albeit focusing on the mountains. We did visit Reschensee though (very windy), and did a night at Garda and hit up the Mille Miglia in Brescia, also swung by the Ring on the way home, so a few common destinations!
tboxes, but what matters is the journey with your mates. We did a route in Italy several years ago and it was a riot in a Fiat 500, Fiat 500L and an Alfa Mito. All gutless, but wonderful fun.vikingaero said:
Kewy said:
visitinglondon said:
Imagine how good the trip would have been in a decent car, not a boring “MINI” (which shares none of the character or verve of a proper mini).
Imagine how good this thread would be, without knob heads like you spouting negative comments about.Really enjoyed the write up OP, did a Euro trip myself back in May, albeit focusing on the mountains. We did visit Reschensee though (very windy), and did a night at Garda and hit up the Mille Miglia in Brescia, also swung by the Ring on the way home, so a few common destinations!
tboxes, but what matters is the journey with your mates. We did a route in Italy several years ago and it was a riot in a Fiat 500, Fiat 500L and an Alfa Mito. All gutless, but wonderful fun.I’ve visited quite a few of the destinations the OP went to - makes me wish I’d taken my S/c Cooper S over to Italy now!
Again, great write up - don’t listen to the naysayers OP
Wow what a trip and what an amazing write up, thanks for sharing, it must have took you hours...
Brought back memories, have done many of the roads you have.
Stand out memory for me is nearly being run off the road on the Umbrail pass by a Mini going hell for leather.
Once again thanks for sharing...
Brought back memories, have done many of the roads you have.
Stand out memory for me is nearly being run off the road on the Umbrail pass by a Mini going hell for leather.
Once again thanks for sharing...
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