Alternative tracking/alignment

[coala]

During the winter I have fitted new shock absorbers (Koni), springs and bushes (Polyurethan) on my old TVR 2500. I have also returned to standard tyres, using the Michelin XZX 165/15.

I have done all the wheel alignments according to the original manual. The car feels great to drive. However... I know the car is supposed to look like it ends up doing, but still it looks a bit weird. Negative camber in the rear and positive in the front. Has anyone used any other alignment meassurements than the standard? Especially in the front. Of course without risking any incorrect tyre wear or poor handling.

Any tips?

[tjasper]

Using negative camber at the front is possible as long as you keep the toe-in exactly as specified. You'll find that the turn-ins are sharpened up and will have to watch the tendency to snap into oversteer as the front end grip will be enhanced.

Fundamentally, there are a number of problems at the front end of the Vixen/2500. The rack isn't correct for the chassis - it was just what was available off the shelf - and the Herald uprights have less than ideal Ackerman angles with more than a few degrees of steering input. Put the car on full lock and you'll see what I mean - the outer wheel is turned far more than the inner!!

There are things that you can do about that. It just depends how far you want to go!

Lata,


YellowShed aka TreVoR Jasper

[coala]

Thanks Jasper!

Just so I get it right. If I go for a negative camber, should I keep the toe-in exactly as specified from the manual with the positive camber setup? Or is it any calculations I need to do to find the correct toe-in using negative camber?

[tjasper]

Use the values in the manual. You can go to 0.5deg negative camber without too much difficulty. That will mean re-adjusting the toe-in because in getting the negative camber, you'll have induced toe-out. Set toe-in to 0deg to 1deg toe-in.

[coala]

Will definitely try that! Thanks!