2500M rear hub carriers

[adios]

Hi all
I've just about completed re-skinning the body with glass and gel-coat and expect to remove the body from the chassis next week. I remember reading several times that there is some sort of problem in removing the lower pin from the rear hub carriers. Can anyone give me the specifics on what the problem involves??

BTW....gotta love the two wood sticks protecting the passenger compartment from the fuel tank
....mebbe that was magic wood from Sherwood forest?

[thegamekeeper]

The problem is the bottom tie bars are ferrous and the rear casting is non ferrous and therefore the two corrode together by electrolytic action. Also the centre of the tie bar is exposed in the back of the casting and corrodes. When mild steel corrodes it "swells" making its diameter larger than the original. Trying to force this through the softer alloy casting can result in the hole being worn out of true.If possible try gently sand blasting the rust off the bar before trying to remove it. Also if time allows fill the well in the back of the casting with penetrating oil for as long as possible(weeks rather than hours) to allow it to seep along the bar where it passes through the casting and hope fully break the corrosion. DO NOT start hitting the bar with a sledge hammer, this will probably break the alloy casting and at best burr over the end of the bar so it will not fit through the hole. There are 2 good ways to remove the bar. First try pressing it out using a hydraulic press. If this fails cut the ends of the bar off flush with the casting and VERY carefully drill the bar out in a pillar drill making absolutely sure you are drilling absolutely true or you will wander off into the softer metal of the casting. Good luck but tackled carefully this is not a big problem----just dont use brute force

[adios]

A BIG thankyou to thegamekeeper!!! I'll head straight to that area with the penetrating oil when the body comes off. Fortunatly I have a milling machine, but I hope it doesn't come to that. Most every nut and bolt has had to be cut or ground off to this point and yet I'm still flicking black paint off the chassis frame where its exposed. So far, only the left rear outlook at the wheelwell is set for replacement.
I'm really looking forward to the day I have the chassis sandblasted.

[thegamekeeper]

No problem any other queries you need only ask

[alf]

Hi. I have had the same problem myself. And did as u said gamekeeper, first cutting then drilling. But Iwonder about the reassembly. How about drillng the hole up more and fit steel sleves.

Alf

[stigproducts]

Someones probably going to say this is the wrong thing to do- but when I had this problem............
I heated the alloy with a blowtorch for a long time and whacked the end. But i don't recommend the latter because as previous correspondants have pointed out it spreads the end. I cut it flush with the alloy and then whacked it through like that with a smaller drift. I also filled the hole inside the casing with diesel for about a month!
When it came out you could see bits of the alloy still attached to bar- seriously welded.
Interestingly, about 3 months after replacing the bar (£20 each by the way!)and putting it back together i had to take it off again- it has corroded in the middle and was hard to get out already- nightmare. So now it is greased inside the hub carrier. Use plently of copper crease on reassembly to to boost your chances of getting it out again.

[thegamekeeper]

Alf occasionally I have line bored the holes and fitted steel inserts if the holes had become mishaped but it is not needed if the castings are not damaged. use plenty of copper grease on assembly and fill the well in the rear of the casting with waxoil,gearbox oil or anything to prevent the bar corroding and you should have no problem stripping the assembly in the future

[alf]

Gamekeeper: I will keep that in mind! Thanks.