Oil Question and fuel

[Obiwonkeyblokey]

Im running a 1970 Tuscan V6 which hasnt been converted to unleaded. I use super unleaded with an additive. 2 questions. Should i use the 95 ron fuel with the additive rather than the 98 ron. And secondly would I be better of just converting to unleaded? Is this advisable or should i just continue to do what I am doing at present. Also out of interest, what oil is recomended for the V6? Thanks. Owen

[TVR_owner]

Obiwonkeyblokey said:

Im running a 1970 Tuscan V6 which hasnt been converted to unleaded. I use super unleaded with an additive. 2 questions. Should i use the 95 ron fuel with the additive rather than the 98 ron. And secondly would I be better of just converting to unleaded? Is this advisable or should i just continue to do what I am doing at present. Also out of interest, what oil is recomended for the V6? Thanks. Owen

That depends on the additive? Millers CVL and 95 will be ok. Millers Turbo with 95 will be ok. Millers normal valve lubricant, I would use 98.

Easier answer is if the additive is also an octane booster, its fine with 95, if not, use 98.

[Fiscracer]

Agree with TVR owner about octane. I use Redline lead additive with V Power which is MUCH cheaper than Millers. You don't need CVL with 98 unleaded unless you are racing.

[Adrian@]

Obiwonkeyblokey said:

Im running a 1970 Tuscan V6 which hasnt been converted to unleaded. I use super unleaded with an additive. 2 questions. Should i use the 95 ron fuel with the additive rather than the 98 ron. And secondly would I be better of just converting to unleaded? Is this advisable or should i just continue to do what I am doing at present. Also out of interest, what oil is recomended for the V6? Thanks. Owen

A conversion to unleaded would only be undertaken IF you need to take the engine apart, even lapping valve faces removes the age hardening, halides and oxides that the lead and additives deposit, you will need, IMHO, to get better than your normal machine shop to work on the conversion (I use JW development) and the cost versus the cost of adding the additives will never be recovered. Adrian@

[Obiwonkeyblokey]

Thanks Guys

I will leave things for the time being and perhaps review next year, when I am thinking of having a tinker with the engine anyway. 2007 was new gearbox, 2008 new paint, I think next year it will eb the engines turn.

what oil do you all use?

[ATE399J]

I've been running super un-leaded recently - up until the last 200 miles I've been lucky enough to pass a garage that still sells 4* (at a price!) on my way to work. I have always considered Adrian@'s view to be pretty true, as long as you don't go re-seating the valves there's a reasonable amount of lead "memory" so you should be OK - provided you don't go thrashing the ***** off it.

As far as oil is concerned I'm pretty sure the old thing should use 20/50 - so as long as you use good quality I guess any should be ok, after all the thing is in a fairly "cooking" state of tune (unless youve tweeked it and not told us). I'll try and remember to have a look in my Zodiac mk IV handbook to see what it recommends.

[Obiwonkeyblokey]

Thanks Phil> its pretty standard as far as im aware.

[Buster44]

Best additive I have used is Castrol Valvemaster Plus. Been used on various classics with std 95Ron unleaded.

One of a few products approved by the Classic Car Federation.

[Obiwonkeyblokey]

Thanks to Phil (ATE 399J) for sending me the Zodiac manual I now know this in relation to the oil.

Grade of oil
Atmospheric temperature range Viscosity rating
Below —10°F (—23°C) 5W/20
—10°F to 20°F (—23°C to —7°C) 1OW/30
20°F to 90°F (—7°C to 30°C) 20W/20 or 1OW/30
Over 90°F (30°C) 20W/40 or 30

it looks like 20W20 or 10W/30 is the way forward!

Edited by Obiwonkeyblokey on Tuesday 8th July 11:35

[TVR_owner]

Obiwonkeyblokey said:

Thanks to Phil (ATE 399J) for sending me the Zodiac manual I now know this in relation to the oil.

Grade of oil
Atmospheric temperature range Viscosity rating
Below —10°F (—23°C) 5W/20
—10°F to 20°F (—23°C to —7°C) 1OW/30
20°F to 90°F (—7°C to 30°C) 20W/20 or 1OW/30
Over 90°F (30°C) 20W/40 or 30

it looks like 20W20 or 10W/30 is the way forward!

Edited by Obiwonkeyblokey on Tuesday 8th July 11:35

I wouldnt put anything less than 20/50 in the car - I would recommend Valvoline Racing (its a mineral oil).

I supsect the Zodiac oil did not run quite as hot as the TVR oil!

[thegamekeeper]

Agree with what Daftlad said but would add change oil more frequntly than normal. Many classics do lower than normal miles and more starts from cold. This causes rich starting mixtures to wash oil down on start up resulting in fuel in sump. Oil is cheap and easy to change, engines aren't. And while you are at it CHANGE not top up the gearbox and differential oil and brake fluid frequently, not perhaps as often as the engine but at least every 10000 miles. keeps oil in grade and seals etc last longer. It may just be me but I get a sense of satisfaction knowing my P & J has clean fluids.

[heightswitch]

thegamekeeper said:

Agree with what Daftlad said but would add change oil more frequntly than normal. Many classics do lower than normal miles and more starts from cold. This causes rich starting mixtures to wash oil down on start up resulting in fuel in sump. Oil is cheap and easy to change, engines aren't. And while you are at it CHANGE not top up the gearbox and differential oil and brake fluid frequently, not perhaps as often as the engine but at least every 10000 miles. keeps oil in grade and seals etc last longer. It may just be me but I get a sense of satisfaction knowing my P & J has clean fluids.

3 votes.
Valvoline R 20/50 Mineral oil every time and drop it every 3000 miles or 6 month.

Thats what goes into my racing engine and quite a few other engines in the tuscan challenge.

Modern synthetics are designed for people who don't maintain cars to extend service life between oil changes.

A good quality mineral oil cannot be beaten, it just needs changed more frequently.

Neil.

[thegamekeeper]

To be honest Valvoline Racing far exceeds what 99% of people need for a road classic. Much rubbish it talked about oil and much of it is made in same refinery and sold in bottles with different labels on. 10/40 semi synthetic oil seems to be the cheapest oil in market, is more than good enough for our cars if engine is not worn and if you buy in 25 litre containers isn't much more than £1 per litre. Halfords own brand 20/50 is good and a friend in the oil additives trade assures me it is the same oil as other more prestigious brands. Most important is keep it clean, far more important than buying premium brands. Costco do a 25 litre Chevron which is excllent value and far exceeds our road car demands


ps Neil did you get my "your fat arse " email

Edited by thegamekeeper on Tuesday 8th July 13:00

[ATE399J]

Owen,

I guess the info may have been a little mis-leading. What I sent is no doubt correct (for 1966) but, personally, I'd stick with a decent 20/50 regardless of all the options the manual gives.

It may be worth giving John Wade a call to see what he recommends (01902 798303).

Phil

[Fiscracer]

I wouldn't skimp on oil. Good oil can save you a lot if things go wrong and avoids cam wear, distributor drive wear and in some cases avoids cranks breaking. I use Motul 300V competition double ester in my race engines. This is probably overkill but I would recommend Millers semi synthetic for the road.

Personally I wouldn't use Valvoline even if someone gave it to me.

[heightswitch]

thegamekeeper said:

To be honest Valvoline Racing far exceeds what 99% of people need for a road classic. Much rubbish it talked about oil and much of it is made in same refinery and sold in bottles with different labels on. 10/40 semi synthetic oil seems to be the cheapest oil in market, is more than good enough for our cars if engine is not worn and if you buy in 25 litre containers isn't much more than £1 per litre. Halfords own brand 20/50 is good and a friend in the oil additives trade assures me it is the same oil as other more prestigious brands. Most important is keep it clean, far more important than buying premium brands. Costco do a 25 litre Chevron which is excllent value and far exceeds our road car demands


ps Neil did you get my "your fat arse " email

Edited by thegamekeeper on Tuesday 8th July 13:00

Steve. I haven't received the e-mail

try lisa_russell@btconnect dot com

PS I need your addy and postcode, I know it is keepers cottage but the copious tape on the packaging ripped through the rest of your labels.

N.

[TVR_owner]

Fiscracer said:

I wouldn't skimp on oil. Good oil can save you a lot if things go wrong and avoids cam wear, distributor drive wear and in some cases avoids cranks breaking. I use Motul 300V competition double ester in my race engines. This is probably overkill but I would recommend Millers semi synthetic for the road.

Personally I wouldn't use Valvoline even if someone gave it to me.

I would not skimp on good oil, and have used Valvoline Racing 20/50 in the past. Interested in why you would run a mile from it, also it's the first time I heard anyone criticise it?

[Adrian@]

Valvoline racing, in anything nice....GTX in the rest, I find that other oils smell vile when they burn and GTX I can just about put up with. Adrian@