AJP4.2 engined 3000m
Discussion
I've just bought a Taimar and had the same thought for a millisecond, then gave myself a mental slap and told myself don't be silly, nobody would, surely not.well, its not just an idea, the engine is in and mounted! I have had to modify the chassis a little to get the engine to sit low enough, for the front to fit back on without a bulge though. Its also having a sierra cossy rear diff and extensivly modified front suspension, to make it steer. It should be fun wen its done!!! I will post some pics as soon as i can!.
Daftlad said:
JR said:
Coping with the heat will be an interesting challenge.
John,Do you think it will produce more underbonnet heat than the old turbos??
The problems I have with the Ford 302 in the M with 300+ bhp is dissipating heat when stationary with no air flow.
Hopefully you'll have more space between the bulkhead and the rear most exhaust ports/manifold than me so that you can use exhaust wrap.
I'm using an electric water pump. This runs at a constant speed irrespective of engine speed so at idle I'm still at maximum water pumping capacity.
(The pump has a thermostat to get the engine up to the desired temperature. It then cuts in once this is reached. )
As the pump is used to regulate the engine temperature I leave the fans running permanently.
I also have a massively oversized (in capacity) alloy radiator - I did this on the basis of eliminating one potential source of overheating.
I get cold air into the Holley by having a big round hole in the top of the bonnet - not ideal asthetically but seems to get cold air in.
Mine has a T5 gearbox which seems OK. I'm also going to a 3.03 diff as 1st gear on mine is unuseable with 15" 55 profile tyres - I may also go up to 60 profile to increase the rolling radius.
*** You need to talk to Mr Venn about rear wishbone strengthening ! ***
Feel free to contact me offline if you want to come and have a look.
electron said:- said:
The problems I have with the Ford 302 in the M with 300+ bhp is dissipating heat when stationary with no air flow.
I've seen several solutions for this, I had a genuine SE vent cut into the bonnet, this definitely worked, as you could feel the hot air coming when the fans were on out by putting your hand through the sunroof!I have also seen bonnet vents in the centre section of the bonnet at the windscreen by raising up the bulge to the back of the bonnet
and I have seen the whole bonnet raised at the back (so bonnet is at an angle) by spacing off the bonnet catches
and there is a German 3000S with a Griffith style bonnet, to vent the radiator, but this doesn't really suit the lines of the car.
The SE vent is neat and works, it doesn't spoil the lines.
But fundamentally you are right, getting rid of the air when stationary or slow moving after a bit of a blast is the main issue, earlier TVRs had side vents which are not on M's or Taimar's (or 3000S's). The hot air just has nowhere to go, except up against the bulkhead. I used to run one of Adrian Venns fat radiators up front with twin Kenlowes which I would switch on when entering a 30mph zone and switch off when exiting (this just over-rode the Kenlowe thermostat control which was still in circuit). My car with a trick Essex never overheated, but obviously didn't generate as much heat as a Turbo, 302 or AJP.
Good luck the AJP conversion it certainly merits a 'madness' award which is what owning a TVR is all about!
davidy
Electron said:
Davidy,
Thanks for this ... I damaged the bonnet earlier in the year so maybe I should add in some extra venting before the repaint ..
Just one point for the experts... my 3000M has side vents like my old Vixen - has someone added them ???
Cheers
Chris
Chris,Thanks for this ... I damaged the bonnet earlier in the year so maybe I should add in some extra venting before the repaint ..
Just one point for the experts... my 3000M has side vents like my old Vixen - has someone added them ???
Cheers
Chris
Early Ms did have the same side vents as an S3 Vixen.
On a similar note my blown tr8 also had hot issues in slow summer traffic and when stationary. I vented the bonnet at the rear, slotted it behind the radiator, fitted huge twin fans and installed a copper radiator. After all that it was stitll borderline at low speeds.
The fix which sorted it out properly was a viscous fan from a range rover mounted to the crank ala TR8. It kicks in when going slow and pulls masses of air through the radiator. The electric fans never switched on again.
Hope this helps.
Boosted.
The fix which sorted it out properly was a viscous fan from a range rover mounted to the crank ala TR8. It kicks in when going slow and pulls masses of air through the radiator. The electric fans never switched on again.
Hope this helps.
Boosted.
Excuse my ignorance of modern technology but I assume an AJP4.2 would run fully mapped fuel injection ??
Using a Holley with lots of under bonnet heat also gives fuel vapourisation problems. I used the thermal spacers on the inlet manifold to both push the Holley away from the hot bits but it also drove more cold air in through the top.
I think I've fixed this bit ...
Getting cold air into the engine will but another piece of the puzzle.
Also I would try and engineer in as much as possible in advance rather than try to retrospectively fix things like I am !!
Moving the battery to the boot and taking out the heater would also help get some space for airflow.
Work out how you're going to get the rear spark plugs out once it's built - consider massaging the bulkhead.
Photos please :-)
Using a Holley with lots of under bonnet heat also gives fuel vapourisation problems. I used the thermal spacers on the inlet manifold to both push the Holley away from the hot bits but it also drove more cold air in through the top.
I think I've fixed this bit ...
Getting cold air into the engine will but another piece of the puzzle.
Also I would try and engineer in as much as possible in advance rather than try to retrospectively fix things like I am !!
Moving the battery to the boot and taking out the heater would also help get some space for airflow.
Work out how you're going to get the rear spark plugs out once it's built - consider massaging the bulkhead.
Photos please :-)
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