3000M Air Filter opinions
Discussion
Hi,
I live in Greece where the temperature has been up in the 40's for most of this summer. It showed up the limitations of my 3000m cooling system, so I am
doing a major overhaul - triple electric fans on the low profile radiator - low temp thermostat - new water pump - replace mechanical fuel pump with electric. I then started thinking about the temperature of the air drawn into the carburettor.
May I please pick you guys' thoughts on the original Ford air filter on the Essex V6? Since I am spending a small fortune on the cooling system and electric fuel pumps etc I had thought to fit an aftermarket filter like Ramflo or Lynx Ramair but when I searched for reviews, several dyno tests showed that such filters were in general, inferior to the OEM filters and resulted in reduced engine power on a dyno test. The consensus was that the most important issue was not filter type but the temperature of the air drawn in. The Essex filter in the TVR draws air in from above the left exhaust manifolds which does not seem ideal. The after market filters would draw air in from the top of the engine which is also fairly hot. Has anyone ever tried a pipe from the original filter to the air intake at the front, or a ram air input with remote filter?
Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.
Regards from a still very hot Greece
I live in Greece where the temperature has been up in the 40's for most of this summer. It showed up the limitations of my 3000m cooling system, so I am
doing a major overhaul - triple electric fans on the low profile radiator - low temp thermostat - new water pump - replace mechanical fuel pump with electric. I then started thinking about the temperature of the air drawn into the carburettor.
May I please pick you guys' thoughts on the original Ford air filter on the Essex V6? Since I am spending a small fortune on the cooling system and electric fuel pumps etc I had thought to fit an aftermarket filter like Ramflo or Lynx Ramair but when I searched for reviews, several dyno tests showed that such filters were in general, inferior to the OEM filters and resulted in reduced engine power on a dyno test. The consensus was that the most important issue was not filter type but the temperature of the air drawn in. The Essex filter in the TVR draws air in from above the left exhaust manifolds which does not seem ideal. The after market filters would draw air in from the top of the engine which is also fairly hot. Has anyone ever tried a pipe from the original filter to the air intake at the front, or a ram air input with remote filter?
Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.
Regards from a still very hot Greece
plasticpig1972 said:
The part ontop of carb is: WEBCON PLENUM KIT DGW/DGAS ref: 9990076100.
Supplier Webcon.
I fitted flexible trunking to front, then big Cone Filter.
Nice fresh air to Carb 100% top.
Alan
Thanks Alan, Now added to my shopping listSupplier Webcon.
I fitted flexible trunking to front, then big Cone Filter.
Nice fresh air to Carb 100% top.
Alan
Edited by aureliusTVR on Monday 4th September 08:07
Thanks Alan. I have also provisionally added a DGAS Plenum to my shopping list, but first I am going to try connecting a 76mm air duct to the original Ford air filter. It should fit under the existing heater air duct. The plenum does look as if it will allow better access to the engine so I may go that route later.
Thanks for posting
Cliff
Thanks for posting
Cliff
Andrew Gray said:
Stay with the original air filter housing and fit a performance K&N filer inside
Rated to 220bhp
So many people fit are actually as you found out inferior to original
Hi Andrew, I can understand the standard large filter housing having the volume to feed the carbs needs but is there still an advantage to having cooler ambient air fed from a remote feed as opposed to air directly from the under bonnet oven? Rated to 220bhp
So many people fit are actually as you found out inferior to original
Edited by aureliusTVR on Tuesday 5th September 17:35
Kalimera Pefkias,
I fitted the Plenum on my 3000S as there is already a moulded in Trunking on the drivers side not being used.
I also have a 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint which has remote Filter infront of Rad. So i have followed the Engineering practice of Colin Chapman. With very good neat result. Always cool dense air feeding the Carb.
Personal choice i suppose but i have been into Lotus for 48 years so old habits don't die easy.
I have also fitted an AFR Kit to sort out the air fuel mixture when driving in "real time". I now have my 3000S running spot on.
Here in Brittany we get some hot weather.
Alan
I fitted the Plenum on my 3000S as there is already a moulded in Trunking on the drivers side not being used.
I also have a 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint which has remote Filter infront of Rad. So i have followed the Engineering practice of Colin Chapman. With very good neat result. Always cool dense air feeding the Carb.
Personal choice i suppose but i have been into Lotus for 48 years so old habits don't die easy.
I have also fitted an AFR Kit to sort out the air fuel mixture when driving in "real time". I now have my 3000S running spot on.
Here in Brittany we get some hot weather.
Alan
Edited by plasticpig1972 on Thursday 7th September 13:01
Edited by plasticpig1972 on Thursday 7th September 13:03
Edited by plasticpig1972 on Thursday 7th September 13:04
Bonjour Alan
We have just got internet and power back on after the storms and floods here (Skopelos, Greece). We live up on a mountain so we escaped the flooding but lost power due to extensive wind damage. It is nice to read some happy TVR banter rather than seeing endless TV news flashes of the terrible floods and storm damage.
The official TVR Spare Parts Manual shows a duct hose running down the LH side and a large cylindrical filter-can behind the radiator. The turbocharger is on the right, behind the rad.
Your AFR kit sounds interesting. Where does the sensor go? Please tell us more.
Best wishes
Cliff
We have just got internet and power back on after the storms and floods here (Skopelos, Greece). We live up on a mountain so we escaped the flooding but lost power due to extensive wind damage. It is nice to read some happy TVR banter rather than seeing endless TV news flashes of the terrible floods and storm damage.
The official TVR Spare Parts Manual shows a duct hose running down the LH side and a large cylindrical filter-can behind the radiator. The turbocharger is on the right, behind the rad.
Your AFR kit sounds interesting. Where does the sensor go? Please tell us more.
Best wishes
Cliff
Ho Cliff,
I have visited Skopelos very nice.
The Boss for tve Sensor is welded into the pipe that slides onto the Exhaust Manifold. I bought a "AEM" Kit. Cheaper than rolling road and imho better result. While driving you can monitor and if good with a PC log on a Graph. I like it no guesswork. The Cone Filter i fitted forward of Rad to oneside.
Alan
I have visited Skopelos very nice.
The Boss for tve Sensor is welded into the pipe that slides onto the Exhaust Manifold. I bought a "AEM" Kit. Cheaper than rolling road and imho better result. While driving you can monitor and if good with a PC log on a Graph. I like it no guesswork. The Cone Filter i fitted forward of Rad to oneside.
Alan
Hi
Does that mean that the sensor is only reading one side - 3 cylinders? Does that cause problems or do you just make sure both sides of the DGAS are screwed in the same?
Have you considered rallying your TVR on this side of Europe? Up until COVID we used to rally my 3000M in the historic regularity rallies in Greece and Italy. The roads and routes are fantastic and both Greece and Italy have some really friendly clubs. Italy used to have a great TVR Car Club that did some great routes linking the best Italian restaurants and vineyards, but unfortunately it is no longer active. My car has been unused since the lock downs - hence the need for some TLC now.
Thanks
Cliff
Does that mean that the sensor is only reading one side - 3 cylinders? Does that cause problems or do you just make sure both sides of the DGAS are screwed in the same?
Have you considered rallying your TVR on this side of Europe? Up until COVID we used to rally my 3000M in the historic regularity rallies in Greece and Italy. The roads and routes are fantastic and both Greece and Italy have some really friendly clubs. Italy used to have a great TVR Car Club that did some great routes linking the best Italian restaurants and vineyards, but unfortunately it is no longer active. My car has been unused since the lock downs - hence the need for some TLC now.
Thanks
Cliff
Yes Sensor is only one bank but no problems because the dgms/dgas both venturies supply both banks. Check Plug colour "hazel nut brown".
To change subject we took Ferry from Kimi to Skiros then Allionisos then Skopelos (very special Island for us) then Skiathos. Ferry to i think port Constantinos then Bus to Athenas, polis arayai. Two weeks rucksack and tent.
Send me email for photos of my filter mod no problem <plasticpig72@orange.fr>
Alan
To change subject we took Ferry from Kimi to Skiros then Allionisos then Skopelos (very special Island for us) then Skiathos. Ferry to i think port Constantinos then Bus to Athenas, polis arayai. Two weeks rucksack and tent.
Send me email for photos of my filter mod no problem <plasticpig72@orange.fr>
Alan
i´m surpised that you need to spent a fortune to bring your car up to Greece Temperature Standards.
A sufficiently large (multi-row) radiator with good airflow / airducting should be able to cope with any outside temperatures
if it needs more, something else is wrong or above radiator / airducting isnt sufficiant.
basics are wrong if you need to make huge efforts to cool the enigne!!
in a fibreglass car its not wrong to use a remote airfilter in the nose of the car, instead of the original ford filter or even worse a K&N or similar filter sucking hot air from inside the enginebay.
A sufficiently large (multi-row) radiator with good airflow / airducting should be able to cope with any outside temperatures
if it needs more, something else is wrong or above radiator / airducting isnt sufficiant.
basics are wrong if you need to make huge efforts to cool the enigne!!
in a fibreglass car its not wrong to use a remote airfilter in the nose of the car, instead of the original ford filter or even worse a K&N or similar filter sucking hot air from inside the enginebay.
Edited by LLantrisant on Friday 8th September 23:46
Llantrisant,
Thanks for your comments.
I think you misunderstood my original post. I was simply asking for thoughts on the air filter – I would hardly describe that as “huge efforts to cool the enigne!!(sic.)
I have used this particular 1977 3000M in Greece for the last 13 years. The stock TVR radiator has been perfectly adequate for all driving conditions, as has the single stock electric fan when the car is stationary.
This summer, we have experienced the highest temperatures that have EVER been recorded in Europe. The limitation that showed up on my car was gauge temperature rising above 95 after sustained idling and no forced convection. Since this is probably going to be the new norm, I am taking the precaution of chemically flushing the whole cooling system, uprating the thermostat to an 82C unit, fitting a new cooling pump, new hoses, and fitting decent electric fans - bit I am still wondering wondering if I should take the opportunity to duct the carb air from a cooler location (for carburetor breathing efficiency rather than any cooling effect).
Can you recommend a remote filter that has actually been tested to give better flow than the stock ESSEX filter?
Thanks for your comments.
I think you misunderstood my original post. I was simply asking for thoughts on the air filter – I would hardly describe that as “huge efforts to cool the enigne!!(sic.)
I have used this particular 1977 3000M in Greece for the last 13 years. The stock TVR radiator has been perfectly adequate for all driving conditions, as has the single stock electric fan when the car is stationary.
This summer, we have experienced the highest temperatures that have EVER been recorded in Europe. The limitation that showed up on my car was gauge temperature rising above 95 after sustained idling and no forced convection. Since this is probably going to be the new norm, I am taking the precaution of chemically flushing the whole cooling system, uprating the thermostat to an 82C unit, fitting a new cooling pump, new hoses, and fitting decent electric fans - bit I am still wondering wondering if I should take the opportunity to duct the carb air from a cooler location (for carburetor breathing efficiency rather than any cooling effect).
Can you recommend a remote filter that has actually been tested to give better flow than the stock ESSEX filter?
Pefkias said:
Llantrisant,
Thanks for your comments.
I think you misunderstood my original post. I was simply asking for thoughts on the air filter – I would hardly describe that as “huge efforts to cool the enigne!!(sic.)
I have used this particular 1977 3000M in Greece for the last 13 years. The stock TVR radiator has been perfectly adequate for all driving conditions, as has the single stock electric fan when the car is stationary.
This summer, we have experienced the highest temperatures that have EVER been recorded in Europe. The limitation that showed up on my car was gauge temperature rising above 95 after sustained idling and no forced convection. Since this is probably going to be the new norm, I am taking the precaution of chemically flushing the whole cooling system, uprating the thermostat to an 82C unit, fitting a new cooling pump, new hoses, and fitting decent electric fans - bit I am still wondering wondering if I should take the opportunity to duct the carb air from a cooler location (for carburetor breathing efficiency rather than any cooling effect).
Can you recommend a remote filter that has actually been tested to give better flow than the stock ESSEX filter?
Keep the stock metal air filter.. Use the stock or better K@N Element. Then Modify the metal casing so you can duct cool air from the front of the car into the air filter housing. Dependant on your TVR Model you can utilise the front fibreglass ducts in the inner wings to achieve this on either 1 side of both sides dependant upon what you are doing with the heater etc. Thanks for your comments.
I think you misunderstood my original post. I was simply asking for thoughts on the air filter – I would hardly describe that as “huge efforts to cool the enigne!!(sic.)
I have used this particular 1977 3000M in Greece for the last 13 years. The stock TVR radiator has been perfectly adequate for all driving conditions, as has the single stock electric fan when the car is stationary.
This summer, we have experienced the highest temperatures that have EVER been recorded in Europe. The limitation that showed up on my car was gauge temperature rising above 95 after sustained idling and no forced convection. Since this is probably going to be the new norm, I am taking the precaution of chemically flushing the whole cooling system, uprating the thermostat to an 82C unit, fitting a new cooling pump, new hoses, and fitting decent electric fans - bit I am still wondering wondering if I should take the opportunity to duct the carb air from a cooler location (for carburetor breathing efficiency rather than any cooling effect).
Can you recommend a remote filter that has actually been tested to give better flow than the stock ESSEX filter?
plasticpig1972 said:
I changed the Core Plugs in the Cylinder Bloc which gave me a chance to flush the inside of the bloc. Some say sediment can collect inside Bloc near n°6.
I used Loctite to be sure there wete no leaks when fitting new Core Plugs.
Alan
Essex engines notorious for sludging up. If anyone ever contemplating a radiator then advice is always to remove coreplugs and thoroughly flush out block.. A new rad will get clogged up straight away if its just changed with the amount of sediment in the old cast blocks. especially at the ages the engines are now. I used Loctite to be sure there wete no leaks when fitting new Core Plugs.
Alan
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff