Vixen Project - ready to get started (almost)

[Mr Plow]

I thought it’s about time I owed up to owning a Vixen. The car was purchased several years ago but has sat in the back of the garage waiting for me to finish other projects. Other projects are almost done so its time to turn my attention to the Vixen and start planning.

The car was purchased as a project and dismantled by the previous owner. So, at the moment I have a large pile of boxes, a body, bonnet and chassis. The chassis is ropey and its unknown whether the chassis has been bent following a NS front accident. As a result, I’m on the waiting list for a new chassis. With the new chassis on the horizon I have the option to look at the best engine/gearbox/diff combination.

My ultimate aim is to build a car that I can use in the TVR speed championship and also a few of the local hillclimb events, so it will be more track focused than road. That said, I intend to use the car on the road as well. With that is mind this is what I’m thinking about;

Engine wise I’d like to retain the Xflow lump but modernise it with throttle bodies, ECU etc. Sorry purists 😊

Gearbox – type 9 with the longer first gear etc.

Differential – I understand the GT6 that came with the car can be a weak point if you upgrade the engine from its standard GT form.

So, a couple of questions.

What differential and ratios are others running, is the 4HU an option and considered an upgrade?

If I move to throttle bodies, can I use the standard tank with a fuel return, or do I need to think about something baffled and with a swirl pot to ensure fuel pressure is constant?

I’m sure I’ll have lots (millions) of other questions as I go. I will of course provide updates including photos (once I can work out how to post photos) on progress.

Thanks in advance

[plasticpig72]

Well done, bravo and i look forward to following your super project
Alan

[timelord]

I still run the original diff in both my Vixen and 1600M, the problem comes the choice of clutch, many "uprated" clutches have stiffer diaphragms which can shock the drivetrain. If you are going for a type 9 box use the later larger diameter clutch, it's stronger but still has some "feed in" when releasing. My Vixen has the Pinto type clutch and the 1600M a Lotus steel flywheel and clutch so several options

[GAjon]

Good luck with your project, please keep us up to date on here, it’s often forgotten nowadays.

I have fuel injection on my M and have a modified tank.
Pick up from the bottom middle of the tank to keep the rear mounted high pressure pump flooded with additional baffles at the pick up point, return line back to the central baffle sumo.

[S1Vixen]

Fuel injected Vixen here also - I use a "standard" tank with an external swirl pot.

If I was doing the job again I would modify the tank with a well and an in tank high pressure pump - less pumps, less hose joints etc. Likely to be a cheaper and better solution.

Could well be when you remove the tank you find it needs work anyway...

Looking forward to seeing the progress unfold

[Monkeythree]

If you have any unwanted bits that you want to sell along the way to help fund the project then drop me a line please. Good luck with it and as others have said, keep us posted with updates.

[Mr Plow]

Thank you for the replies everyone.

The fuel tank info is great and makes perfect sense. The fuel tank has definitely seen better days and is on the list of replacement parts.

Any further advice on the differential would be appreciated. The diff I have isn't an LSD, so will be looking to update this.

[Moto]

Mr Plow said:

I’m on the waiting list for a new chassis.

Interested to know who's making your new chassis and how long the waiting list is?

My ultimate aim is to build a car that I can use in the TVR speed championship and also a few of the local hillclimb events, so it will be more track focused than road. That said, I intend to use the car on the road as well. With that is mind this is what I’m thinking about;

Engine wise I’d like to retain the Xflow lump but modernise it with throttle bodies, ECU etc. Sorry purists ??

Crossflow is a loverly engine when well built. Throttle bodies would make it well sexy also.

Gearbox – type 9 with the longer first gear etc.

No experience of this box but have heard the 5 speed is not as nice to use as the older 4 speed Ford units. Mine's running the 2000e box and I like it.

Differential – I understand the GT6 that came with the car can be a weak point if you upgrade the engine from its standard GT form.

I run a GT6 diff but with a 3.63 C&P ratio. This is stronger than the standard 3.89 and gives me longer gearing, so 5 speed box is not so beneficial. I've also fitted a Quaife ATB. There engine is producing 134bhp on the RR and it's coped with 3 years of hillclimb / sprint competition.

[tyracious]

Here we have diff kit that allows for the placement of a Datsun 510/Early Subaru Hitachi R160 LSD diff in lieu of the spit/GT6.
The R160, at around 52 pounds, is lighter than the R180 and can still stand up to some pretty surprisingly powerful motors.
The half-shaft outputs are positioned in the correct orientation using this kit

This a thing among certain segments of the spit/GT6 crowd over here as a remedy to dealing with the ol' lump.

These diffs are available used from local 510 race shops without the LSD for a very reasonable price.
Local as in Northern California.
Finding them at a breakers yard around here? - nope - the racers have scavenged them all.
Maybe the situation is better in GB.

A fully reconditioned clutch-pack LSD is available for around $1200-$1400 USD with different ratios available.
Stock ratios:
3.70 - 1968 P510 (1600)
3.90 - 1969-1973 P510
4.38 - L13, L14 models

Yeah - you'll have to deal with spacers or new half-shaft configuration.
And prop shaft fitment.
But one gets a fairly light, relatively simple and strong diff.

The kit is available from Australia.
Contact info upon request.

Cheers!

[Mr Plow]

Moto said:

Mr Plow said:

I’m on the waiting list for a new chassis.

Interested to know who's making your new chassis and how long the waiting list is?

My ultimate aim is to build a car that I can use in the TVR speed championship and also a few of the local hillclimb events, so it will be more track focused than road. That said, I intend to use the car on the road as well. With that is mind this is what I’m thinking about;

Engine wise I’d like to retain the Xflow lump but modernise it with throttle bodies, ECU etc. Sorry purists ??

Crossflow is a loverly engine when well built. Throttle bodies would make it well sexy also.

Gearbox – type 9 with the longer first gear etc.

No experience of this box but have heard the 5 speed is not as nice to use as the older 4 speed Ford units. Mine's running the 2000e box and I like it.

Differential – I understand the GT6 that came with the car can be a weak point if you upgrade the engine from its standard GT form.

I run a GT6 diff but with a 3.63 C&P ratio. This is stronger than the standard 3.89 and gives me longer gearing, so 5 speed box is not so beneficial. I've also fitted a Quaife ATB. There engine is producing 134bhp on the RR and it's coped with 3 years of hillclimb / sprint competition.

Thanks Moto.

I still have a couple of options with the chassis. I will hopefully have a little more information that I can share in the next couple of weeks,

[Mr Plow]

Thanks again everyone.

My current thinking is existing diff with the original ratio 3.89 with a type nine box with the longer first gear. I found a site on the web where you can enter all the ratios, diff, gearbox and tyre sizes to calculate speeds on each gear. It looks like the above gives the best compromise.

Now to find a decent type nine box to get rebuilt with the longer gear. Also hoping to get an alloy bell housing and casing.....

[anonymous-user]

tyracious said:

Here we have diff kit that allows for the placement of a Datsun 510/Early Subaru Hitachi R160 LSD diff in lieu of the spit/GT6.
The R160, at around 52 pounds, is lighter than the R180 and can still stand up to some pretty surprisingly powerful motors.
The half-shaft outputs are positioned in the correct orientation using this kit

This a thing among certain segments of the spit/GT6 crowd over here as a remedy to dealing with the ol' lump.

These diffs are available used from local 510 race shops without the LSD for a very reasonable price.
Local as in Northern California.
Finding them at a breakers yard around here? - nope - the racers have scavenged them all.
Maybe the situation is better in GB.

A fully reconditioned clutch-pack LSD is available for around $1200-$1400 USD with different ratios available.
Stock ratios:
3.70 - 1968 P510 (1600)
3.90 - 1969-1973 P510
4.38 - L13, L14 models

Yeah - you'll have to deal with spacers or new half-shaft configuration.
And prop shaft fitment.
But one gets a fairly light, relatively simple and strong diff.

The kit is available from Australia.
Contact info upon request.

Cheers!

Quaife unit in a GT6 unit seems like it maybe 1/2 the price?

Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 3rd May 19:48

[Mr Plow]

Just stumbled across this from 2016/2017.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

The car hasn't changed, except its in bits as the previous owner stripped it. Everything is still there as far as I can tell.

Weekend job is starting to sort through the bits properly to understand what I have and haven't got.