Taimar - pulling rear hubs and driveshafts
Discussion
Hi
So I removed the rear hub carriers from my car fully assembled. My hub bearings seem good, I checked when when the wheels were still on the car. However one of the UJ's needs replaced (partially hiding in the casting) on the outer driveshaft - so I thought I could : remove the drum, undo the 6 small bolts and pull the whole hub assembly out complete with driveshaft attached. Giving me unfettered access to the UJ.
However on removing the bolts it isnt budging, anyone able to give me a pointer, do I need some sort of puller if so what?
Pic
So I removed the rear hub carriers from my car fully assembled. My hub bearings seem good, I checked when when the wheels were still on the car. However one of the UJ's needs replaced (partially hiding in the casting) on the outer driveshaft - so I thought I could : remove the drum, undo the 6 small bolts and pull the whole hub assembly out complete with driveshaft attached. Giving me unfettered access to the UJ.
However on removing the bolts it isnt budging, anyone able to give me a pointer, do I need some sort of puller if so what?
Pic
Cheers - a picture or two is worth a 1000 words. 
Both are out now. They were corroded into place, so I sprayed a load of releasing oil in the back side of the casting where the hub fits , gave the drive shaft end a couple raps with a soft faced mallet and they fell out. A classic case of overthinking it. These casting have me treading too lightly as I'm scared of the damaging them and the resultant costs. Onward and upwards
Regards
Rob
Both are out now. They were corroded into place, so I sprayed a load of releasing oil in the back side of the casting where the hub fits , gave the drive shaft end a couple raps with a soft faced mallet and they fell out. A classic case of overthinking it. These casting have me treading too lightly as I'm scared of the damaging them and the resultant costs. Onward and upwards
Regards
Rob
plasticpig72 said:
You need to replace both sides, that's 4 ujs.
Fit GKN with grease nipples. Landrover.
Even if you feel no wear when they are apart you will see wear. Been there done it on my 3000S.
Mark before taking apart to keep orientation/balance.
Have fun
Alan
And check for any play in the driveshaft sliding splines - no point in having an annoying clicking under/off load when its all back together, much easier to sort out nowFit GKN with grease nipples. Landrover.
Even if you feel no wear when they are apart you will see wear. Been there done it on my 3000S.
Mark before taking apart to keep orientation/balance.
Have fun
Alan
plasticpig72 said:
You need to replace both sides, that's 4 ujs.
Fit GKN with grease nipples. Landrover.
Even if you feel no wear when they are apart you will see wear. Been there done it on my 3000S.
Mark before taking apart to keep orientation/balance.
Have fun
Alan
Cheers - this job is escalating somewhat! Having never done a UJ before it will be a learning experience. Fit GKN with grease nipples. Landrover.
Even if you feel no wear when they are apart you will see wear. Been there done it on my 3000S.
Mark before taking apart to keep orientation/balance.
Have fun
Alan
Its 25+ years since I did it!! I used to just hold drive shaft in both hands (one either side of spline) and twist, if I could feel movement then they were on their way out. Its obviously when they are in the car and you are driving as you get a noticeable click when load is taken up. In the really bad old days, we would take a mallet to the driveshafts and hammer them until they didn't have any movement!!!
One day in the early 90's I liberated two sets (4) driveshaft/hubs from Triumph 2000's in scrapyard at Berinsfield near Oxford. This yard was run by (ex) Hell's Angels' one of whom had a lot of metal calipers around the outside of his legs (probably from a motobike accident) and he would approach you threateningly on arrival and demand to inspect your toolbox - this was the days when you tramped around in foot deep mud and removed your own parts from the cars! The Triumph 2000's were the 2nd cars up in a three car stack, so getting at the driveshafts, hub assemblies was quite straightforward - obviously with the worry of the stack toppling!!! After about 3 hours I had all four and my toolbox, staggered to the gate, was liberated of about £40, along with the immortal words "Never thought someone like you would be able to get those off"
I used to get the hubs reconditioned and kept on my shelf, as far as I was concerned for a hard driven M, they become a regular service item!
One day in the early 90's I liberated two sets (4) driveshaft/hubs from Triumph 2000's in scrapyard at Berinsfield near Oxford. This yard was run by (ex) Hell's Angels' one of whom had a lot of metal calipers around the outside of his legs (probably from a motobike accident) and he would approach you threateningly on arrival and demand to inspect your toolbox - this was the days when you tramped around in foot deep mud and removed your own parts from the cars! The Triumph 2000's were the 2nd cars up in a three car stack, so getting at the driveshafts, hub assemblies was quite straightforward - obviously with the worry of the stack toppling!!! After about 3 hours I had all four and my toolbox, staggered to the gate, was liberated of about £40, along with the immortal words "Never thought someone like you would be able to get those off"
I used to get the hubs reconditioned and kept on my shelf, as far as I was concerned for a hard driven M, they become a regular service item!
The problem with the Wheel Bearings is the 2 very big thin locknuts. You need to make a pair plate spanners.
The big question is "do you want to keep the car" and how much do you want to spend.
There are much better designed CV kits which fix for ever the Bearing weakness/poor design problem.
To change the Bearings you need a special very strong Extractor they used to call the "Beast" and many got damaged.
When you assemble the UJs it can be very tricky and you need to fill with Grease the Cups holding the Needle Bearings . Or they will fall out of place and jamb (been there done it not easy). Don't hammer them together and i like to use a large Vice moving all the time to keep the Needles in place.
If you do all 4 then buy 6 UJs so you can mess up 2.
Good luck and stay zen.
Alan
The big question is "do you want to keep the car" and how much do you want to spend.
There are much better designed CV kits which fix for ever the Bearing weakness/poor design problem.
To change the Bearings you need a special very strong Extractor they used to call the "Beast" and many got damaged.
When you assemble the UJs it can be very tricky and you need to fill with Grease the Cups holding the Needle Bearings . Or they will fall out of place and jamb (been there done it not easy). Don't hammer them together and i like to use a large Vice moving all the time to keep the Needles in place.
If you do all 4 then buy 6 UJs so you can mess up 2.
Good luck and stay zen.
Alan
DavidY said:
Its 25+ years since I did it!! I used to just hold drive shaft in both hands (one either side of spline) and twist, if I could feel movement then they were on their way out. Its obviously when they are in the car and you are driving as you get a noticeable click when load is taken up. In the really bad old days, we would take a mallet to the driveshafts and hammer them until they didn't have any movement!!!
One day in the early 90's I liberated two sets (4) driveshaft/hubs from Triumph 2000's in scrapyard at Berinsfield near Oxford. This yard was run by (ex) Hell's Angels' one of whom had a lot of metal calipers around the outside of his legs (probably from a motobike accident) and he would approach you threateningly on arrival and demand to inspect your toolbox - this was the days when you tramped around in foot deep mud and removed your own parts from the cars! The Triumph 2000's were the 2nd cars up in a three car stack, so getting at the driveshafts, hub assemblies was quite straightforward - obviously with the worry of the stack toppling!!! After about 3 hours I had all four and my toolbox, staggered to the gate, was liberated of about £40, along with the immortal words "Never thought someone like you would be able to get those off"
I used to get the hubs reconditioned and kept on my shelf, as far as I was concerned for a hard driven M, they become a regular service item!
Brilliant story One day in the early 90's I liberated two sets (4) driveshaft/hubs from Triumph 2000's in scrapyard at Berinsfield near Oxford. This yard was run by (ex) Hell's Angels' one of whom had a lot of metal calipers around the outside of his legs (probably from a motobike accident) and he would approach you threateningly on arrival and demand to inspect your toolbox - this was the days when you tramped around in foot deep mud and removed your own parts from the cars! The Triumph 2000's were the 2nd cars up in a three car stack, so getting at the driveshafts, hub assemblies was quite straightforward - obviously with the worry of the stack toppling!!! After about 3 hours I had all four and my toolbox, staggered to the gate, was liberated of about £40, along with the immortal words "Never thought someone like you would be able to get those off"
I used to get the hubs reconditioned and kept on my shelf, as far as I was concerned for a hard driven M, they become a regular service item!
Yea may well end up paying someone to do these hubs - from what I've read it's a right bas***d of a job.My original objective was to have a fully restored rolling chassis "by the end of Summer", as everything I encounter is seized and worn out I'm I'm glad I didnt say what year
TVRMs said:
There are uprated hubs available.
Good advice on changing in the UJs, be aware also that there are UJs without grease nipples that are more robust should you be regularly using your car enthusiastically
On a budget, and this will be a road car but would be interested to hear the options Good advice on changing in the UJs, be aware also that there are UJs without grease nipples that are more robust should you be regularly using your car enthusiastically
plasticpig72 said:
I've fitted with grease nipples "GKN" no problem.
I don't see why they would be weaker and you can give them a pump of grease. The weakness is the needle bearings.
Alan
Those are ones I just bought and they look great quality. My hubs/driveshafts have now been boxed up off and sent out for fitting of new bearings by a specialist. I don't see why they would be weaker and you can give them a pump of grease. The weakness is the needle bearings.
Alan
Meantime lots to get on with.
I've never known the Grease Nipple hole to weaken the UJ to cause failure.
Only known the Needle Rollers to wear but there's no way the Grease Nipple hole will effect that. In fact it gives you the chance to pump some grease in.
These are the same as on "Landrovers" where they take a hammering.
I would say being able to pump in grease will give them a longer life and push out old dried grease.
But it's only my personal opinion.
I don't like "sealed for life" set ups, but that's just me.
If your pushing lots of power, more than original then you need CVs + stronger Driveshafts.
Again only how i see things.
Alan
Only known the Needle Rollers to wear but there's no way the Grease Nipple hole will effect that. In fact it gives you the chance to pump some grease in.
These are the same as on "Landrovers" where they take a hammering.
I would say being able to pump in grease will give them a longer life and push out old dried grease.
But it's only my personal opinion.
I don't like "sealed for life" set ups, but that's just me.
If your pushing lots of power, more than original then you need CVs + stronger Driveshafts.
Again only how i see things.
Alan
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