Needle descaler
Discussion
Has anyone here used a air powered needle descaler to remove rust on a TVR tubular chassis? In the past I've used a wire wheel on an angle grinder but its creates a lot of dust. The needle descalers look a lot less messy and also look like they will find weak rust spots due to the more aggressive action.
However unsure how well they will work on the small size tubes on a Taimar chassis. Also I only have a 25 litre compressor so not sure that's big enough.
Advice welcome
Cheers
Rob
However unsure how well they will work on the small size tubes on a Taimar chassis. Also I only have a 25 litre compressor so not sure that's big enough.
Advice welcome
Cheers
Rob
Had one for ages but don't use it much, pain in the arse for round things like chassis tubes, it only hits a very small area and can't get into joints easily. I gave up and sent the chassis for blasting and red oxide coating then painted it. Cost a few quid but I would never have got anywhere close to what they did.
Could be too aggressive on thin tube?used one many years ago on angle iron and seem to recall it being rather fierce!
And yes, I suspect it will need a good air supply but at 20 quid why not give it a go?
If chassis is completely stripped (not doing spot repairs on the car) sandblasting has got to be the way to go.
Edited by phillpot on Thursday 7th January 23:02
I've used a needle gun in the past, good at small areas to rid new steel of scale, but very noisy.
I used a 40/60/ 80 grit flap disc designed for the grinderette and wear a mask and eye protection along with gloves. Less dust and more effective than a wire wheel.
www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-flap-disc-115mm-60-grit/2...
I used a 40/60/ 80 grit flap disc designed for the grinderette and wear a mask and eye protection along with gloves. Less dust and more effective than a wire wheel.
www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-flap-disc-115mm-60-grit/2...
Time to engage man math/ logic mode!
If the body is off, your only a few nuts and bolts away from a bare chassis.
So strip it, send it for shot blasting, get it back uncoated, do the repairs required , send it back for final blast and chosen coating.
You may still need your needle gun for local areas and peripheral parts so it won’t be wasted.
If the body is off, your only a few nuts and bolts away from a bare chassis.
So strip it, send it for shot blasting, get it back uncoated, do the repairs required , send it back for final blast and chosen coating.
You may still need your needle gun for local areas and peripheral parts so it won’t be wasted.
Slow M said:
The best part about using this he needle gun is that it will penetrate a tube that’s been weakened by corrosion. If it’s weak enough to puncture, it shouldn’t be part of your chassis. My point is, its value is in identifying weak tubes. Yes, loud as f
k.
Yea original my thoughts exactly, if they can take the agressive action of a needle gun they would surely be in okay nick. Have been doing a bit of flux core and stick welding outside of recent (on a shipping container , not trying to pass myself as a good welder though) and it did occur a needle descaler would also be good for cleaning off flux on welds. Will be using MIG gas for the chassis welding though.k. I'm going to check the one I am looking at doesnt need any more CFM that my compressor can handle and if not buy it. Plan being to cleanup any suspect bits on my chassis which may need welding/replacement, fix them and then get the whole chassis blasted and epoxy primed.
Will report back with salacious photies in due course.
I have been resisting commenting but...
If you are re=painting the forth bridge or maybe a WW2 tank then use a needle gun. On thin tube however totally the wrong bit of kit.. unless you just want to polish rust. The ONLY way to remove rust is to shot blast it. then replace any tubes which become pock marked or more likely holed.
N.
If you are re=painting the forth bridge or maybe a WW2 tank then use a needle gun. On thin tube however totally the wrong bit of kit.. unless you just want to polish rust. The ONLY way to remove rust is to shot blast it. then replace any tubes which become pock marked or more likely holed.
N.
Cheers appreciate the input.
Still In the process of stripping things down to get the body off. Seats out, bonnet off, front wheel arches off, clutch cable disconnected so far. Slow progress as many seized nuts and bolts to battle with. Fuel Tank next. Seeing many things that will need replacing including the wiring loom which is crap. I went thorough all the history and receipts the other day from the previous owner and sorted them by date to get an idea of whats been replaced and whats been done to the thing leading up to it being off the road for 22 years.
Will post up some pics
Cheers
Rob
Still In the process of stripping things down to get the body off. Seats out, bonnet off, front wheel arches off, clutch cable disconnected so far. Slow progress as many seized nuts and bolts to battle with. Fuel Tank next. Seeing many things that will need replacing including the wiring loom which is crap. I went thorough all the history and receipts the other day from the previous owner and sorted them by date to get an idea of whats been replaced and whats been done to the thing leading up to it being off the road for 22 years.
Will post up some pics
Cheers
Rob
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff