3000s running on

3000s running on

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plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

156 months

Thursday 4th June 2020
quotequote all
I had some running on problems now and then on my 3000S very strange.
So
1. i looked at the Spark Plugs colours and they were White. There was hesitation at slow opening of throttle.

2. i looked at the Idle Jet sizes and they were 50.

3. i changed them to 55 to see what would happen. I found the Spark Plugs started to get a little colour and the running on stopped. But still a very slight hesitation at very slow opening of throttle.

4. i went up on Idle Jets to 60. I found the Spark Plugs Hazel nut colour perfect. No running on and no hesitation at very slow opening of throttle.
Perfect running now.
Conclusion is when the Engine was rebuilt with a different Camshaft the Carb had never been set up correctly and with the Modern Fuels now it doesn't help.
I hope this can be of use for someone else.
Alan

anonymous-user

61 months

Thursday 4th June 2020
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The main jets and air correction jets would be a concern also if this is the case. Best spend some time at the Dyno.

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

156 months

Thursday 4th June 2020
quotequote all
Yes i agree if i lived near John Wade or someone who knows Essex Engines.
I live in Brittany France.
But now i have no running on and the Spark Plugs have a good colour.
I might look at fitting a Lambda Kit some day to monitor the AFR.
It was more as info for others that find thier car does not pick up cleanly when the Throttle is opened very slowly from 1,000rpm. Also they suffer from running on when Engine is very hot.
I hope this will help and the cost of Idle Jets is very cheap.
Alan

anonymous-user

61 months

Thursday 4th June 2020
quotequote all
Not intended to criticise what you’ve done Alan, all good work. However, weak idle is unlikely to detonate an engine, wrong mains and air correctors will. Weak mixture will lead to hotter than normal running too.

Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 4th June 19:53

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

156 months

Friday 5th June 2020
quotequote all
No problem.
The problem was not weak at tickover because that is corrected by turning the tickover screw out to richen mix on tickover.
Idle Jets in real life are "Transition Jets" which feed the Engine from tickover upto when the Main Jets start to operate which can be from 2,000rpm upwards. A lot of driving is done at low rpm when the Idle Jet is the only Jet feeding the Engine.
The going up in Idle Jet size was just a little tweek to remove a very slight hesitation during the transition from Tickover to about 1700rpm.
Plus improve Plug colour and stop Running on.
I think a better name for Idle Jet would be Transition Jet.
Now there is no Running On and Plug colour is correct. The Idle Screws are also 1/2 turn off their Seats.
Alan
ps. if the Idle screws are too far off their seats that indicates that Idle Jets are too small

Edited by plasticpig72 on Friday 5th June 10:18


Edited by plasticpig72 on Saturday 6th June 15:37

plasticpig1972

203 posts

53 months

Tuesday 16th June 2020
quotequote all
So an update to say what i've ended up with.
After several kms drive i have found that with the 60 Idle Jets the Plugs are dirtier than i prefer.
I have gone back to the 55 Idle Jets which give a very light Hazel Nut colour on the Plugs.
This gives smooth transition from 1,000 rpm and you would really need to be nit picking to say there is hesitation. To be honest with the VA19 Cam it's good and remember the VA19 operates from 1,500 rpm upwards.
I have done a check with my good old "Hawk Analyser" and i get 11.3 AFM which to me i can live with.
Now there is never any Run -On when i switch off so i'm happy.
I have 2 friends that are running 3000S cars with fast Road Cams using 55 Idle Jets also.
That's why i used 55 as a bench mark.
Alan

Gee Boo

84 posts

194 months

Tuesday 16th June 2020
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Hi, I find this of great interest as my 3000m V6 was running quite rough at low revs , so far I’ve been backing out the 2 volume control screws to good effect but as they are now backed out as far as possible and although it’s running a lot better I need to keep going SO am I right that I now need to change the 2 primary jets in the bottom of the float chamber?? And I guess they need to be smaller AND if they are (say) a 60 to go smaller does a 55 indicate a smaller jet ??? Hope this is making basic sense?? Thanks,Gavin.

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

156 months

Tuesday 16th June 2020
quotequote all
The Idle Jets are not in the Float Chamber.
They are screwed in from outside of Carb Body, one each side.
With bigger Idle Jets the Idle mixture Screws will not be soo far out.
They should be about one turn out.
Alan

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

156 months

Tuesday 16th June 2020
quotequote all
The Idle Screws when unscrewed let in more Fuel not air. So if you need to unscrew it means you need larger Idle Jets
Alan

Gee Boo

84 posts

194 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
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Thankyou Alan for your reply ! I need to read up so I understand the Carburetor and jets I need to tinker with !! When I find exactly where these jets are and find what size of jet is currently in place can you advise me do I need to go a larger number jet or smaller number jet ??? This is a big learning curve for me ?!! Thanks again,Gavin .

Gee Boo

84 posts

194 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
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Have tried without success to find the idle jets !! My carb is a Weber 38 DGMS and there are no jets behind the accelerator pump cover that I can see !! Where are these little buggers hidden???

Gee Boo

84 posts

194 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
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Good ol’ YouTube I’ve found them !!

plasticpig1972

203 posts

53 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
quotequote all
Good,
well done you're learning fast.
So because you need to unscrew the Mixture Screws 2 turns or so means the hidden Idle Jets on each side of the DGMS are too small.
What size Idle Jets do you have, let me know.
You also need to buy a complet Gasket Set + the Power Valve (not in a kit).
Clean and fit new Gaskets and Power Valve first.
Also check Carb Flange to see if it is bowed using a Straight Edge.
Many times the Power Valve has a hole in the Diaphragm which causes all sorts of rough running.
Alan

Gee Boo

84 posts

194 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
quotequote all
My carb is a 38 DGMS and it has idle jets at 45 on both primary and secondary sides ! I have ordered 2x 50s / 2x 55s / 2x60s for starters !! Thanks yet again Alan for you input , I feel I am indeed learning fast but still a long way to go but this is great fun and very interesting!!

Gee Boo

84 posts

194 months

Wednesday 17th June 2020
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Now researching power valve ...

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

156 months

Thursday 18th June 2020
quotequote all
Hi Gavin,
PM sent with info and my email address
Cheer
ALAN