Taimar restoration questions
Discussion
Hi Pistonheads,
I'm currently working on a my TVR Taimar which I have owned for the last 41 years and whose restoration is well overdue!
During my ownership I have kept her roadworthy but am now stepping into unknown realms and could use some guidance on things I've not tackled before.
The story so far:
I've taken the body off and cleaned the chassis (which was solid and not in need of welding) and have treated with POR15
I've renewed all the suspension bushes, drop links, ball joint etc etc
I've run new copper fuel lines and brake pipes
New calipers and shoes
New clutch...nearly
Couple of current challenges holding me back that I would be thankful for guidance on:
1. I put a new clutch in while the body was off, I have now refitted the body but the fork arm that comes out of the bellhousing doesnt seem to be seated on the bearing properly, and I have no way of knowing if the other end is hooked into the pin. What is the best way to fit the clutch fork/arm and can it be done whilst the engine and gearbox are in the car and the body is on?
2a. The electrics are "original" and should probably be replaced. I am trying to extract the loom but need to remove the dashboard. Does anyone have a diagram or instructions as to how I remove the dash and where the bolts/fixing are?
2b. I am searching for a replacement loom for a 78 Taimar. I have contacted a company that want my original to copy, but it is in such a state that it would be better to find someone who has the right pattern. Any suggestions?
Next steps:
The hope is that the clutch is a relatively simple thing to resolve and then the body can be bolted back down, then the carpets can all be stripped out, electrics replaced, new carpet, refurb the leather/vinyl. I'm not planning any changes to the engine at this point in time - I'm more focused on getting it back on the road first. Then there is an amount of body work to be sorted, including doors and window frames (but I will probably have to sump up to expert assistance with this bit) then a full respray, new tyres, new MOT, just in time to drive my daughter to her wedding at the end of August!
Any and all input gratefully received. If anyone is local to Glasgow you are welcome to come and have a look if you are interested.
I'll try and post regular updates as I learn things that might be useful to others undertaking a similar project in the future too.
Dave
I'm currently working on a my TVR Taimar which I have owned for the last 41 years and whose restoration is well overdue!
During my ownership I have kept her roadworthy but am now stepping into unknown realms and could use some guidance on things I've not tackled before.
The story so far:
I've taken the body off and cleaned the chassis (which was solid and not in need of welding) and have treated with POR15
I've renewed all the suspension bushes, drop links, ball joint etc etc
I've run new copper fuel lines and brake pipes
New calipers and shoes
New clutch...nearly
Couple of current challenges holding me back that I would be thankful for guidance on:
1. I put a new clutch in while the body was off, I have now refitted the body but the fork arm that comes out of the bellhousing doesnt seem to be seated on the bearing properly, and I have no way of knowing if the other end is hooked into the pin. What is the best way to fit the clutch fork/arm and can it be done whilst the engine and gearbox are in the car and the body is on?
2a. The electrics are "original" and should probably be replaced. I am trying to extract the loom but need to remove the dashboard. Does anyone have a diagram or instructions as to how I remove the dash and where the bolts/fixing are?
2b. I am searching for a replacement loom for a 78 Taimar. I have contacted a company that want my original to copy, but it is in such a state that it would be better to find someone who has the right pattern. Any suggestions?
Next steps:
The hope is that the clutch is a relatively simple thing to resolve and then the body can be bolted back down, then the carpets can all be stripped out, electrics replaced, new carpet, refurb the leather/vinyl. I'm not planning any changes to the engine at this point in time - I'm more focused on getting it back on the road first. Then there is an amount of body work to be sorted, including doors and window frames (but I will probably have to sump up to expert assistance with this bit) then a full respray, new tyres, new MOT, just in time to drive my daughter to her wedding at the end of August!
Any and all input gratefully received. If anyone is local to Glasgow you are welcome to come and have a look if you are interested.
I'll try and post regular updates as I learn things that might be useful to others undertaking a similar project in the future too.
Dave
Maybe for the Clutch Arm you can move the rubber Gaiter and look inside the Bellhousing . Or use an Endoscope pluged into a Laptop.
For the Electrics i have found changing the Fuse Box and changing every Female Bullet connection i can lay my hands on has got my 3000S and 3000M both running well.
It's a good idea to fit quick release Hinges to the Bonnet. With the Bonnet off the Harness tied to the Bonnet cross Tube is easy to remove and replace all Bullet connecters.
On the female Bullet/Blocks i cut off the insulation then i can twist a small screw driver to open them up. This stops pulling the Male Bullets off the end of the Wires.
Have fun
Alan
For the Electrics i have found changing the Fuse Box and changing every Female Bullet connection i can lay my hands on has got my 3000S and 3000M both running well.
It's a good idea to fit quick release Hinges to the Bonnet. With the Bonnet off the Harness tied to the Bonnet cross Tube is easy to remove and replace all Bullet connecters.
On the female Bullet/Blocks i cut off the insulation then i can twist a small screw driver to open them up. This stops pulling the Male Bullets off the end of the Wires.
Have fun
Alan
I had great difficulty sourcing the correct clutch components on the Vixen. The housing I took off was substantially higher than the replacement unit. IIRC I was told that the aftermarket housings are lower and this should be compensated for by using a longer release bearing carrier. However I never felt confident in any of the advice given. It may be worth checking the heights of the housing & bearing/carrier you took off with the replacement ones as this may be your problem
Moto.
Moto.
Autosparks do a 3000M loom, which ought to be pretty close. Except for the tail gate release maybe (they also include the M series in a list of cars for which an early vixen loom is suitable, but I wouldn't use that). I don't have any experience of it, but thought I would point out a possible source. Its £408.
Also Adrian Venn is still around and will probably be able to give you chapter and verse on the whole car down to the name of the spider hiding in the wing mirror!
Also Adrian Venn is still around and will probably be able to give you chapter and verse on the whole car down to the name of the spider hiding in the wing mirror!
Edited by Astacus on Wednesday 19th February 23:51
2a Dashboard. The actual dash panel itself is held in by two bolts, one either side, hidden in the door shut line, found either side of the end air vents. There are two sections of angled steel that help locate the dash panel. These are attached to the dash panel itself and run behind the wiper mechanism guide tubes along the front bulkhead. They MAY be bolted through the bulkhead too.
Separately, you then have all your accessories attached such as your air vents and gauges that will restrict you when trying to manoeuvre it out.
To give more wiggle room, remove steering wheel and the cover around steering column. If you have a centre cubby hole or lower dash panel, that is just jammed in and can be removed too for access.
Or you might be very unlucky and someone in the past has done a proper job of assembling it, unlike the factories ‘that’ll do’ ethos.
Best of luck!
Separately, you then have all your accessories attached such as your air vents and gauges that will restrict you when trying to manoeuvre it out.
To give more wiggle room, remove steering wheel and the cover around steering column. If you have a centre cubby hole or lower dash panel, that is just jammed in and can be removed too for access.
Or you might be very unlucky and someone in the past has done a proper job of assembling it, unlike the factories ‘that’ll do’ ethos.
Best of luck!
Thanks all,
It looks like there is no clever way out of my problem with the clutch fork so I think I am going to have to take the body off again and split the gearbox/engine and do the job properly!!
On the wiring loom front I have spoken to Autosparks and I think the 3000M is the nearest i'm going to get (Adrian also did not think I would find a Taimar loom, spider's mane is George)
As for the dash, the whole thing sounds a bit of a nightmare but we'll see how we go.
Thanks again
Dave
It looks like there is no clever way out of my problem with the clutch fork so I think I am going to have to take the body off again and split the gearbox/engine and do the job properly!!
On the wiring loom front I have spoken to Autosparks and I think the 3000M is the nearest i'm going to get (Adrian also did not think I would find a Taimar loom, spider's mane is George)
As for the dash, the whole thing sounds a bit of a nightmare but we'll see how we go.
Thanks again
Dave
Body off, exhaust off, and engine out. On inspection of the bearing the seating for the lugs on the fork have spring clips ( no elastic bands necessary). Unfortunately you cannot assemble the bearing and fork on the bench then install, you have to clip then together insitu and it is not easy.
Finally managed and engine back in and exhaust fitted. Enough for today time for a beer !!
Finally managed and engine back in and exhaust fitted. Enough for today time for a beer !!
Hi PistonHeads,
I am restoring my 78 Taimar and have finished all the mechanical bits and have refitted the body.
My next job is to rewire and am in the process of trying to remove the dash. The central consul is out and I have undone 4 long thin nuts and bolts from the underside of the dash, but this has got me nowhere!
Has anyone done this before?
Does the dash come out of the frame or does the whole front come off, if so how is it held in place?
Frustration is at a max, any advice gratefully received.
Thanks
Dave
I am restoring my 78 Taimar and have finished all the mechanical bits and have refitted the body.
My next job is to rewire and am in the process of trying to remove the dash. The central consul is out and I have undone 4 long thin nuts and bolts from the underside of the dash, but this has got me nowhere!
Has anyone done this before?
Does the dash come out of the frame or does the whole front come off, if so how is it held in place?
Frustration is at a max, any advice gratefully received.
Thanks
Dave
On mine the dash front and top pad came out in one (there will be differences between cars)
There are a nut and bolt in each of the sides that are accessed by openings the doors and they are on the A pillar.
The top dash pad has a hook that hooks over the wiper drive tube so you have to lift the back up and over,
Loosening and dropping the steering column helps a lot.
There are a nut and bolt in each of the sides that are accessed by openings the doors and they are on the A pillar.
The top dash pad has a hook that hooks over the wiper drive tube so you have to lift the back up and over,
Loosening and dropping the steering column helps a lot.
wee silver car said:
Premier wiring are now based in Spain!
Instructions to leave a message on their answer machine, have done will wait and see.
Mean time can anyone confirm, or otherwise, if the headlights on M series ( Taimar) are from a mini or perhaps a landrover
Standard 7 inch lights. They are old Land Rover too as I’ve recently replaced mine with Lucas units, including the bowl, from Vintage Warehouse 65 on eBay. They also sell the bezels if you need them. I’ve got a Taimar too - 30 years this year.Instructions to leave a message on their answer machine, have done will wait and see.
Mean time can anyone confirm, or otherwise, if the headlights on M series ( Taimar) are from a mini or perhaps a landrover
FFG
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