Vixen Radiator Repairs - best method
Discussion
Morning all,
The rad on my 2500 has started to leak, not much, more of a seeping out of what looks like a brass bung at the centre of the bottom of the radiator - presumably this is in place of where the drain plug used to once be - why would someone remove that? Anyway, the radiator always kept the car well chilled when necessary and looks to be in good shape otherwise (the colour of the drained water was strange, but I'll write separately about that)so I'm wondering what the best way to seal this is? A stitch in time saves nine so I have the rad completely out of the car and am only thinking about external repairs only rather than rad-weld which I used to shove in anything when I was a student. I'm hoping this is something which is easily tackled by just me in my kitchen too.
Any advice welcomed
cheers
Joe
The rad on my 2500 has started to leak, not much, more of a seeping out of what looks like a brass bung at the centre of the bottom of the radiator - presumably this is in place of where the drain plug used to once be - why would someone remove that? Anyway, the radiator always kept the car well chilled when necessary and looks to be in good shape otherwise (the colour of the drained water was strange, but I'll write separately about that)so I'm wondering what the best way to seal this is? A stitch in time saves nine so I have the rad completely out of the car and am only thinking about external repairs only rather than rad-weld which I used to shove in anything when I was a student. I'm hoping this is something which is easily tackled by just me in my kitchen too.
Any advice welcomed
cheers
Joe
Joe,
My Vixen has an original rad with the brass top & bottom tank - you are correct that the bottom tank should have a drain tap. Repair of the tank is using solder as per previous post. However if like mine, you may find you also need to replace the core and / or the flat steel plate frame along the base and sides.
Last month I took mine to a local radiator repairer and he re-soldered the leaking bottom tank, made a full new frame, fitted a new core and painted the unit. It cost 240 pounds all in but now as new, is still original and looks right. As you say there is nothing wrong with the original rad as it keeps the engine cool even on hot days.
Moto
My Vixen has an original rad with the brass top & bottom tank - you are correct that the bottom tank should have a drain tap. Repair of the tank is using solder as per previous post. However if like mine, you may find you also need to replace the core and / or the flat steel plate frame along the base and sides.
Last month I took mine to a local radiator repairer and he re-soldered the leaking bottom tank, made a full new frame, fitted a new core and painted the unit. It cost 240 pounds all in but now as new, is still original and looks right. As you say there is nothing wrong with the original rad as it keeps the engine cool even on hot days.
Moto
All would have been welcome to my old rad it was perfect and only removed due to a perceived need for new parts in the rebuild. It went for a song to someone who races Vixens and apart from moaning there was a transit chip off the plastic casing he hasn’t given feedback after 6 months the nob.
There’s a long week ahead and I feel better for getting that out.
There’s a long week ahead and I feel better for getting that out.
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