Discussion
The HD clutch will have more powerful springs holding it together, so the force to over come the will be higher.
If the cable is shot, which it well might be, this will them multiply the higher force into a mad hopping calf building machine. Obviously if the cable is new, it might just be how it is, or that the gym is needed.
Obviously hydraulic has no real friction, and makes it easier to play with ratios. but doesnt change the clutch springs.
Daniel
If the cable is shot, which it well might be, this will them multiply the higher force into a mad hopping calf building machine. Obviously if the cable is new, it might just be how it is, or that the gym is needed.
Obviously hydraulic has no real friction, and makes it easier to play with ratios. but doesnt change the clutch springs.
Daniel
TVRMs said:
Mods to pedal box maybe tricky.
That was the easy bit, my '77 Taimar uses TR6 pedal box, everything is ready drilled to take m/c. TR6 used hydraulic clutch 
You'll need some sort of bracket to hold a slave cylinder and a pushrod, I used parts from an S Series, they are a TVR fabrication to convert the bell housing and clutch arm Ford intended for cable clutch.
I believe that Wilwood do a push or pull style slave cylinder which potentially could be easier to adapt to a cable based release arm setup.
Certainly worth checking the cable is OK as they can bind & hugely increase the pedal effort.
Not sure what the pedal ratio ends up being with the Triumph pedal box but the Ford applications had fairly light clutches so unless it has a very silly pressure plate I wouldn't expect it to be too heavy......all depends what you're used to I guess! Modern clutches tend to be fairly sensible these days - the bullworker uprated clutches are very "old school"!
Stew.
Certainly worth checking the cable is OK as they can bind & hugely increase the pedal effort.
Not sure what the pedal ratio ends up being with the Triumph pedal box but the Ford applications had fairly light clutches so unless it has a very silly pressure plate I wouldn't expect it to be too heavy......all depends what you're used to I guess! Modern clutches tend to be fairly sensible these days - the bullworker uprated clutches are very "old school"!
Stew.
Sorry boys but i'm a TVR Virgin.
I just looked in the Footwell of my car and it has what i think is a TR6 Pedal Box. It seems what TVR used BUT in their wisdom decided to convert to Cable Clutch. I find it difficult to follow the logic.
So i think all that's needed to change to a hydraulic Clutch is the special Bracket to fit a Slave Cylinder to the Bellhousing. Also of course modify the Clutch Pedal to be on the centreline of a Hydraulic Master Cylinder.
I wonder if someone has a special bracket to fit a Slave Cylinder to the Bellhousing for a TVR Virgin lol.
Alan
I just looked in the Footwell of my car and it has what i think is a TR6 Pedal Box. It seems what TVR used BUT in their wisdom decided to convert to Cable Clutch. I find it difficult to follow the logic.
So i think all that's needed to change to a hydraulic Clutch is the special Bracket to fit a Slave Cylinder to the Bellhousing. Also of course modify the Clutch Pedal to be on the centreline of a Hydraulic Master Cylinder.
I wonder if someone has a special bracket to fit a Slave Cylinder to the Bellhousing for a TVR Virgin lol.
Alan
They did the cable conversion on some of the Vixens too.....Ford used cables on all of the later stuff includin the V6 models, nowt wrong with them when in good nick.
As has been said before if the clutch itself is the cause for the heavy pedal then it will be heavy if actuated by cable or hydraulic as there is no magical servo effect, it's just lever ratios & you're constrained by the travel you need to clear the clutch & the pedal travel is fairly bound by the kinematics of the driving position / comfort requirements etc.
Unless you need the additional torque capabilty of an uprated clutch it sounds like stock is the way to go once you've checked the problem doesn't lie elsewhere (ie a goosed cable).
If you did want to conver to hyd then looking at the photo it wouldn't be difficult to replicate the bracket, the slave will just be a generic girling or similar cylinder, not sure what the diameter is but shouldn't be too difficult to find out.
Stew.
As has been said before if the clutch itself is the cause for the heavy pedal then it will be heavy if actuated by cable or hydraulic as there is no magical servo effect, it's just lever ratios & you're constrained by the travel you need to clear the clutch & the pedal travel is fairly bound by the kinematics of the driving position / comfort requirements etc.
Unless you need the additional torque capabilty of an uprated clutch it sounds like stock is the way to go once you've checked the problem doesn't lie elsewhere (ie a goosed cable).
If you did want to conver to hyd then looking at the photo it wouldn't be difficult to replicate the bracket, the slave will just be a generic girling or similar cylinder, not sure what the diameter is but shouldn't be too difficult to find out.
Stew.
ds.The 3000/3000S/Taimar was fitted from new with the organic (steel/asbestos) AP HD clutch (I doubt it possible to find a heavier 'duty' clutch AND as fitted to TVR's right through to the end of the V8 cars in 2004, although later, as a brass/composite version, V6 and V8 have different thrust bearings). This then is then NOT an issue with a 'good' HD duty clutch (or every TVR 72-2004 would have an issue). So, a quick removal of the clutch cable to check it has not melted internally (from being on the exhaust, as mentioned several times) AS, there is a retro fit sump bracket fitted to 79-81 cars to stop this happening (IF a NEW cable is fitted and it touches the exhaust just once it will have melted internally and result in a stiff clutch) OR the HD clutch that has been fitted is just expensive rubbish. A@ IF you do really want a conversion bracket as Mike above mentioned, I have one.
It is worth noting that the VERY late Taimars/3000S and the rare 3000M's with the later floor pan (79 on) have a different ratio pedal box (higher in the foot well and so longer pedal) which changes the effort needed to operate the clutch. A@
It is worth noting that the VERY late Taimars/3000S and the rare 3000M's with the later floor pan (79 on) have a different ratio pedal box (higher in the foot well and so longer pedal) which changes the effort needed to operate the clutch. A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 1st May 08:42
Adrian@ said:
The 3000/3000S/Taimar was fitted from new with the organic (steel/asbestos) AP HD clutch (I doubt it possible to find a heavier 'duty' clutch AND as fitted to TVR's right through to the end of the V8 cars in 2004, although later, as a brass/composite version, V6 and V8 have different thrust bearings). This then is then NOT an issue with a 'good' HD duty clutch (or every TVR 72-2004 would have an issue). So, a quick removal of the clutch cable to check it has not melted internally (from being on the exhaust, as mentioned several times) AS, there is a retro fit sump bracket fitted to 79-81 cars to stop this happening (IF a NEW cable is fitted and it touches the exhaust just once it will have melted internally and result in a stiff clutch) OR the HD clutch that has been fitted is just expensive rubbish. A@ IF you do really want a conversion bracket as Mike above mentioned, I have one.
It is worth noting that the VERY late Taimars/3000S and the rare 3000M's with the later floor pan (79 on) have a different ratio pedal box (higher in the foot well and so longer pedal) which changes the effort needed to operate the clutch. A@
On your back on a cold wet Snetterton garage floor is the best place for a clutch change isn’t it!It is worth noting that the VERY late Taimars/3000S and the rare 3000M's with the later floor pan (79 on) have a different ratio pedal box (higher in the foot well and so longer pedal) which changes the effort needed to operate the clutch. A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 1st May 08:42
3.5 hrs start to finish including a drive to Bury St Edmunds to buy a clutch included.
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