Original Chassis Colour

[TiM3]

Hi, my 1972 M series chassis has been blasted and repaired. It's now ready for recoating and I've been searching for what the colour would have been originally. It was silver but that's from a 90's restoration.

Some kind of light grey?

[plasticpig72]

I've only seen black paint on the Chassis, that is 1975 1600m, 1976 3000m and 1978 3000s.
I have never repaired or repainted a Chassis myself. But i would think sandblast and straight away paint with a good quality zinc based paint. After undercoat and a gloss paint.
Imho i don't like powder epoxy because when it cracks the moisture is sucked in underneath and rusts badly.
Alan

[phillpot]

I have never repaired a chassis, but here's my advice.....

[Moto]

My Vixen is 1972 and I'm pretty sure the chassis was originally black.

Are you powder coating it or something else?

Moto

[TiM3]

Thanks for the replies..

I'm not sure why I had grey in my head but sounds like black is the right colour. The car is undergoing a lot of modifications to be honest so I'm not after originality so much as a period 'look'.

In terms of coating it's with RT Racing in Sheffield for the bits of welding I couldn't get to and the coating. He does a 3 stage process of dip, zinc prime and topcoat.

Looks like it's black then!

Cheers Tim

[plasticpig72]

I have never changed a Chassis on a TVR BUT, in the past i have replaced the Chassis on 2 Lotus Elan +2s with Lotus galvanised Chassis.
My present Lotus Elan sprint had the Chassis replaced for a Lotus galvanised Chassis in the 1980s and it's still perfect.
If one day i have a big problem with the Chassis on my 3000m or 3000s i will replace with new and galvanise it before fitting. Even though that means drilling holes in the Chassis Tubes.
I understand there was at least 1 Wedge with a Stainless Steel Chassis.
Alan

[TiM3]

Galvanising is a great idea, probably overkill for my car which won't see much extreme conditions when it's finished (in about 10yrs...)

As you can see the chassis is in great condition for 46yrs old, albeit it's clearly had a previous recoat. Photo is an early test fit of engine swap which is part of the rebuild.

[TwinKam]

Forgive me, I know nothing about these models; that's a Rover V8 in an M chassis? So you've had to cut the front upper member; will you be building strength back into that area?

[TiM3]

Hi, it's a Ford small block V8 (302ci) which actually fits quite nicely all bar the front crossmember which is clashes with the water pump. This was just one of about endless trial fits to try and get the engine and box to sit right. I've since dog legged and braced that front crossmember.

[280i]

my Vixen is an 18K mile survivor. The frame was painted a dull black from the factory.

[anonymous-user]

This was ours, satin black powder factory type finish rather than the gloss black often used.

[status]

I painted mine with light grey POR15 because I figured I might see small rust areas more quickly than if it was black. Of course I hope I won't see any for many years to come, given it had multiple coats

[Moto]

If / when I carry out a chassis refurb, I'd be seriously tempted to use POR15 also. We run a small fleet of Ifor Williams trailers and ocaissionally we have to angle grind off a damaged bracket and weld on a replacement. We use POR15 to treat all new metal. It is a bit of a lengthy process to clean, prep, prime and paint but it is fantastic stuff. I have never yet had any treated area chip or rust and it does get proper abuse.


Moto

[Moto]

If / when I carry out a chassis refurb, I'd be seriously tempted to use POR15 also. We run a small fleet of Ifor Williams trailers and ocaissionally we have to angle grind off a damaged bracket and weld on a replacement. We use POR15 to treat all new metal. It is a bit of a lengthy process to clean, prep, prime and paint but it is fantastic stuff. I have never yet had any treated area chip or rust and it does get proper abuse.


Moto