Weber 32/36 DGAV troubles

[Chrome4320]

Been daily driving the pinto powered Wedge 25-30 miles a day for the last month or so with very few troubles whatsoever, all running smoothly, been driven fairly gently (very rarely opened the secondary and kept below 4,500 rpm for the most part) but decided to do a few fairly hard pulls the other night just to see how things run under a bit of load, up to maybe 5,200rpm nearly full throttle from first through third and then back off in fourth, all went well after the first, but after the second i noticed a bit of hesitation under acceleration and very rough running with frequent misfires, carefully drove back home and problems worsened, the engine won't idle by itself regardless of idle speed when either hot or cold, and still misfires at all speeds, i've rebuilt the carb tonight and checked for blockages everywhere, all looked perfect as far as i could see, no blockages, no dirt on the filter in the float cover, no sediment in the bowl. i was hoping to find a ruptured accelerator pump diaphragm which might've explained the hesitation under acceleration but it came out intact with no holes. all parts in the rebuild kit now in the carb but the problem still persists. the only thing i could see a little out of place was the mixture screw which was 3.5 turns out from all the way in which seems way too much (recommended 1.5-2 turns out if i remember correctly?). had the engine running while tweaking the mixture and can't get it to run any nicer even with rather severe adjustments. any advice would be greatly appreciated, if any other info would be helpful i can hopefully provide it!

[plasticpig72]

You say you have rebuilt the carb but was it with a complet carb kit.
One thing it is not in carb kits is the Power Valve and many times the problem is you need to replace it.
The diaphragms are shot
"Webcon uk part n° 5780453900 £24.20 + vat"
Alan

Edited by plasticpig72 on Friday 4th May 05:39

[anonymous-user]

Have you checked the plugs/leads/distributor/timing?

[Chrome4320]

Was one of these kits:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WEBER-32-36-DGAV-CARB-C...

so no power valve was replaced, would there be a visible fault when you pulled it out as there would be with a bad accelerator pump diaphragm? either way will get one of those ordered ASAP and hope for the best, and all plugs leads dizzy and rotor arm have been replaced in the last 300 miles and all were checked before i started pulling the carb apart, all seems well with a strong spark. Thanks very much for the suggestions, i'll let you know how the power valve helps once it arrives!

[Chrome4320]

A quick thought, with this being the hardest the car has ran in quite a while (stood for 9 months prior to purchase) is there any chance the vacuum advance on the dizzy is stuck open?

[plasticpig72]

I am sure the problem is the Power Valve as on both i cars a 1976 3000M and 1978 3000S i had to change them.
People just fit the standard kit and don't even know the Power Valve exists. They wrongly think the kit is complet.
Alan

[Chrome4320]

Right new one should be here tomorrow, thanks for the help guys! will post with any updates

[Chrome4320]

right that's the old power valve i've just pulled out, not exactly pristine, think you guys might be onto something tried the test in the other photo and checked for the valve holding its vacuum by covering that hole, absolutely no vacuum whatsoever so obviously not working at all.

[Chrome4320]

New power valve in, fresh gaskets all round, zero improvement in running although the new valve holds its vacuum perfectly when putting your finger over the hole in the float cover, last thing to check is timing then I'm out of ideas

[Dollyman1850]

Take the jets out, and blow them through with an air line, I have an ultrasonic cleaner and main pump jet plus bypass jets always worth doing.

Change your condenser, Not sure if you are electronic ignition or points but always worth a clean up. If you haven't touched your timing and it has started to miss after running properly then it won't be your timing, Usual, new plugs, new good quality leads.

Chances are you will change all these and it will be fine and you won't know the single thing that fixed it.

Also. It could be fuel that is gumming up the works.. Unleaded tends to go off after a few months, could be your fuel filter.

In a classic that stands idle for longer periods it is always best to use super plus unleaded which has higher octane and lower ethanol content and doesn't go off as quick.

N.

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Saturday 5th May 18:02

[anonymous-user]

You could always ring webcon for advice they are very helpful. I was there on Friday picking up some air bleed screws and they seem like s great bunch.
I would still look electrical. Take the plug leads off to establish if it’s one cylinder and plugs out to see if ones discoloured either due to no spark or worse. But worse won’t come into it at this stage...

[Chrome4320]

Fiiiiinally done, I didn't realise you had 2 more jets on the outside of the carb, probably should've caught onto that sooner but ah well. Both had perished and split o rings and one had actually rattled loose slightly. All running well now! will get a timing light on her on the week and do a final tune as well.