electronic ignition

electronic ignition

Author
Discussion

mosstrooper

Original Poster:

317 posts

238 months

Tuesday 1st May 2018
quotequote all
No doubt this has been aired before, but what are the current suggestions for EI conversions for the x-flow 1600 ?

Non-vac distributor.

Looking forward to your replies.

SRT Hellcat

7,106 posts

224 months

Tuesday 1st May 2018
quotequote all
I would imagine a MSD system would be the best route to go

plasticpig72

1,647 posts

156 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2018
quotequote all
What i have fitted on my Lotus Elan Sprint is a "SIMONBLOC HALL EFFECT". "POWERSPARK"
Fits inside the dissy cap and does not effect the rev counter or anything else.
You just need to be sure the HT Coil is 3 ohms resistance.
I fitted this 5 years ago and it works fantastic.
Nice bit of kit
Alan

Edited by plasticpig72 on Wednesday 2nd May 08:16

timelord

318 posts

290 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2018
quotequote all
Unless you change to a ballasted ignition avoid Lumenition systems, had 2 break down on me intermittently when car got hot slowly cooking the coil! Geoff

tomtrout

595 posts

170 months

Wednesday 2nd May 2018
quotequote all
I am using a ballasted coil coupled to an alden distributor and period Luminition and my car hasn't missed a beat. Now where is that lump of wood!

timelord

318 posts

290 months

Thursday 3rd May 2018
quotequote all
Very small print in Lumenition instructions must be used on ballasted system not 12volt

plasticpig72

1,647 posts

156 months

Thursday 3rd May 2018
quotequote all
As i said above the "SIMONBLOC POWERSPARK" hall effect works fantastic (only £30). I also fitted a Bosche coil high resistance coil. 100%
Alan
ps. non vac dissy

Moto

1,261 posts

260 months

Thursday 3rd May 2018
quotequote all
I'm running the Accuspark unit. Fits inside the dizzy & simple to fit. £35 cost.

The engine has always run perfectly with it installed. But I've had to replace it twice after working on the electrics. It is very sensitive to any voltage spikes I guess. Their tech help is excellent & both replacements they sent out next day for half price. I always have a spare in the car just in case.

Moto

mosstrooper

Original Poster:

317 posts

238 months

Thursday 3rd May 2018
quotequote all
Thanks for all your advice. POWERSPARK c/w coil ordered

mosstrooper

Original Poster:

317 posts

238 months

Sunday 13th May 2018
quotequote all
Powerspark fitted . Had some difficulty starting but after I advanced the ignition by quite a few degrees all seems well.

My car was fitted with an old porcelain ballast resistor. The old feed to the resistor is now the positive ignition feed to the coil. The resistor is now, of course, redundant.

However, there is/was another wire leading out of the resistor which disappears into the loom and I just cannot find where it goes.

Any ideas ??

plasticpig72

1,647 posts

156 months

Monday 14th May 2018
quotequote all
Yes with the "powerspark" it's not easy to do the static timing but once it starts you set with strobe light at tickover.
It's a no brainer, fit and forget.
But i still have in the glovebox a set of points and a condenser.
Alan

mosstrooper

Original Poster:

317 posts

238 months

Monday 14th May 2018
quotequote all
Thanks. Strobe used and all appears OK but haven't taken it on the road yet.

Any thoughts on the wire from the ballast resistor ?

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

262 months

Monday 14th May 2018
quotequote all
mosstrooper said:
Powerspark fitted . Had some difficulty starting but after I advanced the ignition by quite a few degrees all seems well.

My car was fitted with an old porcelain ballast resistor. The old feed to the resistor is now the positive ignition feed to the coil. The resistor is now, of course, redundant.

However, there is/was another wire leading out of the resistor which disappears into the loom and I just cannot find where it goes.

Any ideas ??
The ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking (the whole point of the system), so possibly the other wire goes back to the starter solenoid.

mosstrooper

Original Poster:

317 posts

238 months

Monday 14th May 2018
quotequote all
I thought that but there's no 'spare' wire at the solenoid.

If there were, would it matter if it was no longer connected ??

plasticpig72

1,647 posts

156 months

Tuesday 15th May 2018
quotequote all
When i have removed a Ballast Resistor i have always just connected the in and out wires together.
Fitted a 12v Coil job done.
Alan