removing paint

[plasticpig72]

I just started rubbing down to remove the paint on my 3000m.
It seems that i need to use 80 grit to stop the paper clogging up too soon.
I'm doing it by hand on the curves and with an Orbital Sander on the flat parts.
Then i suppose work down the grades to 120 then 220 then 320.
I think 320 will be ok for the Polyester Filler to be sprayed on.
Do you think i am right, any comments welcome.
Alan

[steveo3002]

180 would be alright for polyester , dont go too fine as you need the key so it sticks

polyester is a bad choice on fibre glass as it absorbs damp

[Fastpedeller]

depending on what type of paint was originally used it may be possible to get it off a lot quicker by using a stripping chemical. Langlow 'safastrip' was one I used on GRP, and it worked very well. A yatch chandler may sell a suitable product.

[plasticpig72]

Hi Steve,
i was thinking of the Polyester Filler because that's what Miles Wilkins talks about in his book.
What would you say is better a 2K or Epoxy filler.
I feel a little frightened to use a Paint Stripper on grp.
Alan

[steveo3002]

epoxy would seal it ...so as long as the body is dry then it will be sealed up

also be carefull you arent making it wavey /wobble with the sander ..a nice long block on flat panels would be good

edit ...will the guy who wrote the book come and sort it out when its full of micro blisters ?

Edited by steveo3002 on Wednesday 25th April 14:15

[Dollyman1850]

steveo3002 said:

epoxy would seal it ...so as long as the body is dry then it will be sealed up

also be carefull you arent making it wavey /wobble with the sander ..a nice long block on flat panels would be good

edit ...will the guy who wrote the book come and sort it out when its full of micro blisters ?

Edited by steveo3002 on Wednesday 25th April 14:15

I don't see the logic or repairing a polyester based fibreglass body with Epoxy... The last person I would also slag off is Miles Wilkins !! It is still the best book available for teaching yourself how to repair fibreglass cars.

I would always keep the base materials the same. Thats just my view though. That said none of my cars have solvent pop or micro blisters!

Soda blasting is a very good way of gently removing paint...The only other way is doing it slowly and having the patience of a saint :-D

N.

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Wednesday 25th April 19:15

[plasticpig72]

e.g. Saint Miles.
Joking apart i think i prefer to follow Miles Wilkins "Fibre Glass Services" with his many years of experience .
Who last year closed his garage (to retire) but still continues to supply Lotus Parts and support Lotus grp Cars.
Alan
p.s. Polyester Filler on Polyester Body

Edited by plasticpig72 on Thursday 26th April 03:04

[Andrew Gray]

There has been lots of talk for and against soda blasting a fiberglass car.

One of the Pre 80s owners and ex TVR Factory workers has invested in a large soda blasting system £10 000 and he will be bringing some panels that he will be doing as examples of the finish achieved to this years Extravaganza which will be very interesting.

So maybe going forward people will take there cars to him and have them blasted lets see i for one am looking forward to seeing the results.
I believe its a skilled job.
Andrew

[nwarner]

I've just stripped my 3000S and found that the easiest way was to use a Stanley blade scraper as you can see in the picture.

Nige

[Fastpedeller]

nwarner said:

I've just stripped my 3000S and found that the easiest way was to use a Stanley blade scraper as you can see in the picture.

Nige

Just out of interest...... any idea what sort of paint it is/was?

[plasticpig72]

Thats a good question as it looks like it was soft.
I've heard of people using a Heat Gun that you use for stripping paint from wood or metal.
But i'm not so sure what the heat will do to GRP!!!!!!
Alan

[Fastpedeller]

plasticpig72 said:

Thats a good question as it looks like it was soft.
I've heard of people using a Heat Gun that you use for stripping paint from wood or metal.
But i'm not so sure what the heat will do to GRP!!!!!!
Alan

I'd shy away from using a heat gun! I've used the safe chemical stripper though, and it did the job well (bit messy though)

[plasticpig72]

A garage here in France used Hot Air Gun to strip the many layers of paint on a friends Lotus Elan +2.
It's a garage that does a lot of work on Renault Alpine 110s and Ventura cars.
It would certainly dry out any moisture.
I think "Option 1" heat cars to 50°C several times to remove moisture etc.
Alan

[nwarner]

Fastpedeller said:

Just out of interest...... any idea what sort of paint it is/was?

As far as I know it was cellulose, I've used the same method before on my Vixen and Scimitar and they were definitely cellulose. Years ago someone with a Corvette told me that it's the method he was told to use as the factory primer is soft and allows you to do it. You do have to make sure you keep the blade flat so if you have a curve you have to go towards the curve and over it so the blade is flat. The only place it wouldn't work was where there was and new rear wing let in after an accident and that didn't have the factory primer.

Nige

[anonymous-user]

Sounds like soda blasting is favourite. Paint scraping seems like a high risk exercise if it digs in!

[plasticpig72]

Well i've looked everywhere all over the car and only found one place with some cracks front off side. I had already seen that the car had had a knock there many years ago.
So any cracks should have surfaced by now.
I have ground away the gelcoat in the damaged area as per Miles Wilkins and used resin + tissue to repair. I like to do this and use no filler if possible and find that cracks then do not return.
I will soon find a garage to respray the car and i didn't want them just to grind out cracks and just whack on filler.
I have found out over the years just filler in cracks does not work and they return.
Alan