Vixen chassis corrosion
Discussion
Hi
I am currrently looking for a Vixen and have arranged to view an S3 in a week's time.
I have managed to find out that the MOT which has just been carried out has some advisories on it
Offside Front Vehicle structure has slight corrosion holed (6.1.B.2)
Offside Rear Vehicle structure has slight corrosion holed (6.1.B.2)
Nearside Front Vehicle structure has slight corrosion (6.1.B.2)
Nearside Rear Vehicle structure has slight corrosion (6.1.B.2)
Nearside Front Shock absorber has a light misting of oil (2.7.3)
Nearside Front Suspension arm has slight play in a pin/bush TRUNION THREAD (2.4.G.2)
Obviously until I have a close look it's difficult to tell to what extent it's corroded, but I wonder if any of you enlightened ones could offer some advice ie repairing in situ etc. I do know the chassis was restored many year ago and was powder coated, I assume that coating has been breached.
I need to buy a new trolley jack for the garage in any account and wondered if anyone had any suggestions for one that would fit under a Vixen, as well as the best jacking points so I can get under and examine the corrosion
Apart from the advisories, I do like the look of the car.
Any comments/suggestions more than welcome
thanks
Mark
I am currrently looking for a Vixen and have arranged to view an S3 in a week's time.
I have managed to find out that the MOT which has just been carried out has some advisories on it
Offside Front Vehicle structure has slight corrosion holed (6.1.B.2)
Offside Rear Vehicle structure has slight corrosion holed (6.1.B.2)
Nearside Front Vehicle structure has slight corrosion (6.1.B.2)
Nearside Rear Vehicle structure has slight corrosion (6.1.B.2)
Nearside Front Shock absorber has a light misting of oil (2.7.3)
Nearside Front Suspension arm has slight play in a pin/bush TRUNION THREAD (2.4.G.2)
Obviously until I have a close look it's difficult to tell to what extent it's corroded, but I wonder if any of you enlightened ones could offer some advice ie repairing in situ etc. I do know the chassis was restored many year ago and was powder coated, I assume that coating has been breached.
I need to buy a new trolley jack for the garage in any account and wondered if anyone had any suggestions for one that would fit under a Vixen, as well as the best jacking points so I can get under and examine the corrosion
Apart from the advisories, I do like the look of the car.
Any comments/suggestions more than welcome
thanks
Mark
dodgepot said:
I need to buy a new trolley jack for the garage in any account and wondered if anyone had any suggestions for one that would fit under a Vixen
Never tried it under a Vixen, but this is the one I use and is often recommended on ph. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ctj1250ab-1...
No doubt they'll have a black Friday thing next week and it'll be a bit cheaper.
Without doing a body lift you won’t know the true extent of corrosion. I’m currently having my Mark 1 Tuscan’s chassis refurbished. On initial inspection with the body on there was corrosion in both outriggers and NS chassis rail. The true extent of corrosion after the body had been lifted and the chassis shot blasted was quite shocking. I have owned the car for over 12 years and it was serviced regularly at a main TVR garage and had regular waxoyl applications.
The chassis work is nearing completion and has involved large chunks of the main chassis being replaced and both outriggers. So my point is if there is corrosion on initial inspection it may be much more extensive than you think!
The chassis work is nearing completion and has involved large chunks of the main chassis being replaced and both outriggers. So my point is if there is corrosion on initial inspection it may be much more extensive than you think!
Only 2 kinds of vixens in my book. Ones that have had new chassis and ones that need them.
Galvanising can be done but only if you absolutely trust the galvaniser...Most galvanisers chuck stuff into a hot vat along with with fencing, railings and heavy metal items.. The galvanising process can cause twisting of the chassis.. I have seen chassis galvanised where 2 men lift it in but 4 men have to lift it out... Most vixen chassis get to 40 plus years old without much drama so I really do wonder whether it is necessary especially when you consider the zinc rich powder coating processes available today??
N.
Galvanising can be done but only if you absolutely trust the galvaniser...Most galvanisers chuck stuff into a hot vat along with with fencing, railings and heavy metal items.. The galvanising process can cause twisting of the chassis.. I have seen chassis galvanised where 2 men lift it in but 4 men have to lift it out... Most vixen chassis get to 40 plus years old without much drama so I really do wonder whether it is necessary especially when you consider the zinc rich powder coating processes available today??
N.
I have a galvanised chassis on my Lotus Elan Sprint fitted 30+ years ago and it's as good as new.
With powder epoxy they still rust very badly once the epoxy cracks and moisture enters.
If the galvanising twists the chassis i would think it can be tweaked back in line.
With galvanising you don't need to paint there's no point and the paint won't stick, unless you use a special product like on Porsche cars.
Alan
With powder epoxy they still rust very badly once the epoxy cracks and moisture enters.
If the galvanising twists the chassis i would think it can be tweaked back in line.
With galvanising you don't need to paint there's no point and the paint won't stick, unless you use a special product like on Porsche cars.
Alan
plasticpig72 said:
I have a galvanised chassis on my Lotus Elan Sprint fitted 30+ years ago and it's as good as new.
With powder epoxy they still rust very badly once the epoxy cracks and moisture enters.
If the galvanising twists the chassis i would think it can be tweaked back in line.
With galvanising you don't need to paint there's no point and the paint won't stick, unless you use a special product like on Porsche cars.
Alan
Box section spine construction versus v light tubes are totally different when it comes to the way they are affected by Heat.With powder epoxy they still rust very badly once the epoxy cracks and moisture enters.
If the galvanising twists the chassis i would think it can be tweaked back in line.
With galvanising you don't need to paint there's no point and the paint won't stick, unless you use a special product like on Porsche cars.
Alan
I would be very very wary of doing it...it has been done though. But as said you have to absolutely know and trust the people doing it.
I absolutely know and trust my powder coater
N.
Mark, The MOT report sounds like there may be chassis work required. However as they are only advisories it may not be as severe as it sounds. It gives you time to drive and enjoy whilst you plan any work.
I purchased my Vixen 6 years ago and the chassis was original but still OK, although the paint finish is not good. As I don't take it out in the wet it hasn't deteriated since I purchased it. So depends on how you use it as to whether it's likely to become a MOT failure sooner or later.
If you decide to address it then two choices are repair or replace. Either way it's realistically going to be a body off job. Arguments for each depending on state of chassis, originality vs all new metal.
Moto
I purchased my Vixen 6 years ago and the chassis was original but still OK, although the paint finish is not good. As I don't take it out in the wet it hasn't deteriated since I purchased it. So depends on how you use it as to whether it's likely to become a MOT failure sooner or later.
If you decide to address it then two choices are repair or replace. Either way it's realistically going to be a body off job. Arguments for each depending on state of chassis, originality vs all new metal.
Moto
Moto said:
Mark, The MOT report sounds like there may be chassis work required. However as they are only advisories it may not be as severe as it sounds.
MOT said:
Offside Front Vehicle structure has slight corrosion holed (6.1.B.2)
Offside Rear Vehicle structure has slight corrosion holed (6.1.B.2)
I think holes is reasonably severe, good chance that may require some chassis work! ... Offside Rear Vehicle structure has slight corrosion holed (6.1.B.2)
That's what I thought when I read "holed". However as an "advisory" the mot was passed so it should be structurally sound and safe otherwise it would have failed. Take a good look to see the condition for yourself and get into the difficult to see parts ie between chassis rails and floor.
If you go ahead with the purchase based on it being what you want and the right price for condition, then you know that at some point chassis work is probably required. Better that than buying one and finding out afterwards. Don't let it put you off as you will never find a Vixen that doesn't continually need work doing to keep it on the road and in good condition.
Moto
If you go ahead with the purchase based on it being what you want and the right price for condition, then you know that at some point chassis work is probably required. Better that than buying one and finding out afterwards. Don't let it put you off as you will never find a Vixen that doesn't continually need work doing to keep it on the road and in good condition.
Moto
Edited by Moto on Saturday 4th November 10:09
The condition of the chassis will very depend on the life history of the car so age alone is no indication on whether or not a new chassis is required. The chassis on my vixen is 48 years old. It has been shot blasted to bare metal, been repaired, including new outrigger tubes, zinc dipped and painted. I have every confidence this car will outlast me.
So it sounds as if this particular car needs a body lift but don't assume this will be astronomically expensive, especially if you can lift the body yourself and present the chassis to a competant welder. Personally i am an advocate of salvaging and repairing as much of a classic car as you can. If the rest of the car is up together and the price reflects the fact that some chassis work is needed then i would be very interested.
So it sounds as if this particular car needs a body lift but don't assume this will be astronomically expensive, especially if you can lift the body yourself and present the chassis to a competant welder. Personally i am an advocate of salvaging and repairing as much of a classic car as you can. If the rest of the car is up together and the price reflects the fact that some chassis work is needed then i would be very interested.
I looked at the car last weekend.
I got the car as far off the ground as I could and had a good luck underneath. The outriggers are definitely holed and in need of replacement.
A lot of the chassis is covered in a fairly heavy coating of some description and it was difficult to gauge the condition of the tubes underneath. The state of the outriggers however leads me to believe that once the body is lifted further corrosion will be found. Whilst it may be possible to refurb the rest of the chassis, I think it would be better to replace the chassis at this point to avoid any future issues.
Much less of an issue would be the need for me to replace the seats straight away because the seat tubes are so narrow I couldn't squeeze into them.
I made an offer taking this into account and am waiting to hear the outcome.
Cheers
I got the car as far off the ground as I could and had a good luck underneath. The outriggers are definitely holed and in need of replacement.
A lot of the chassis is covered in a fairly heavy coating of some description and it was difficult to gauge the condition of the tubes underneath. The state of the outriggers however leads me to believe that once the body is lifted further corrosion will be found. Whilst it may be possible to refurb the rest of the chassis, I think it would be better to replace the chassis at this point to avoid any future issues.
Much less of an issue would be the need for me to replace the seats straight away because the seat tubes are so narrow I couldn't squeeze into them.
I made an offer taking this into account and am waiting to hear the outcome.
Cheers
reading such a mot report the alarm-bells should start to ring.
the chassis is definately shot....and needs a FULL resto...not more, not less...means full suspension overhaul and all the consecutive work you should do once the body is off.
filling anything with foam isnt a good idea....several car manufacturers have experimented with such things in the 70ies...and most cars suffered from it....the foam was like a sponge...once water found a way inside the foam filled areas (and it definately WILL find a way..sooner or later) , the rot rapidly starts....
the best protection is galvanizing.
powder coating isnt bad either--> if done correctly....the problem with most british manufactueres is (incl. all the kitcar chassis)...a most important step in the powder-coating process is missed: zinc passivating.
the british manufacturers powder coated directly onto the bare chassis....often the chassis hadnt even been properly blasted or cleaned ...hence the coating started flaking after short time.
the chassis is definately shot....and needs a FULL resto...not more, not less...means full suspension overhaul and all the consecutive work you should do once the body is off.
filling anything with foam isnt a good idea....several car manufacturers have experimented with such things in the 70ies...and most cars suffered from it....the foam was like a sponge...once water found a way inside the foam filled areas (and it definately WILL find a way..sooner or later) , the rot rapidly starts....
the best protection is galvanizing.
powder coating isnt bad either--> if done correctly....the problem with most british manufactueres is (incl. all the kitcar chassis)...a most important step in the powder-coating process is missed: zinc passivating.
the british manufacturers powder coated directly onto the bare chassis....often the chassis hadnt even been properly blasted or cleaned ...hence the coating started flaking after short time.
Edited by GinG15 on Monday 20th November 22:50
Offer rejected, so upped it slightly but still no good.
Apparently had 2 higher offers.
I made mine on the basis of requiring chassis replacement, not sure what the others have based theirs on.
A dealer made an offer to purchase or sale or return but that was also rejected.
So we'll play the waiting game till the next candidate comes along.
I'm looking for a 71 S3 if possible but an S2 or S3 in the right condition/price bracket would be considered
cheers
Mark
Apparently had 2 higher offers.
I made mine on the basis of requiring chassis replacement, not sure what the others have based theirs on.
A dealer made an offer to purchase or sale or return but that was also rejected.
So we'll play the waiting game till the next candidate comes along.
I'm looking for a 71 S3 if possible but an S2 or S3 in the right condition/price bracket would be considered
cheers
Mark
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