Garage Lifts Which One
Discussion
Alan has asked me to comment on the lift that i have installed in my workshop.
Firstly i must say having a lift of any sort really does transform not only what work you can do yourself but even more so transforms how you maintain your car.
As there are no cross supports you have full access from front to back down the middle and due to its design i was able to decide the distance between each platform to suit my cars.
There are so many different options out there that will all do different things some better than others and some that are more suitable to parking lifts and occasional maintenance.
My Lift was a Custom fit as i wanted it partly submerged into the floor and was supplied by Equipment4Garages in St Albans it is the Ace Peak full height lift the Cost fitted will vary depending on your location,budget around £2500.
This type of lift unlike some others of this type does not require any ground work however its important that your floor is thick enough and ideally reinforced due to headroom i can only use 1.5 meters of height however it will go to 2 meters while maintaining stability.
There are a number of companies that supply lifts and as i did worth shopping around however after shopping around i found that my choice of supplier was certainly the right one http://www.garageequipment.co.uk/.
They do exactly what they say they will do fitting is done by well trained engineers and price is extremely competitive .
However there are others i looked at such as strong man etc however the price is rather higher.
People say well they are cheap Chinese imports well so is probably the phone in your pocket and buying from a respected company who visits the factories where they are made and works with the manufactures to improve and insure quality is great.
Having spent 3 days at the NEC Last year and may well do again this year helping to man there display while showing my Tuscan at the same time sharing about the car and selling the lifts it was a very interesting exercise as so many people have different needs and expectations of what they want and need and different Garages and even some that wanted it outside and movable all applications there was either an option on display or one available that was not.
If you have space to store a car and walk around it then you have space for a lift.
And there is one to fit most peoples budget as well ,many where amazed that for less than a major service on a Porsche they could have there own lift installed.
When i build the other Garage i will install at least one parking lift and maybe a two post lift i was interested to see that two post lifts can also be converted to have platforms as many dont like the idea of storing a car with there wheels hanging down as many do with a two post or even a single post.
Hope that answers your question Alan
Maybe others who have had a lift installed can add to the thread and share there experience with it
Andrew
Firstly i must say having a lift of any sort really does transform not only what work you can do yourself but even more so transforms how you maintain your car.
As there are no cross supports you have full access from front to back down the middle and due to its design i was able to decide the distance between each platform to suit my cars.
There are so many different options out there that will all do different things some better than others and some that are more suitable to parking lifts and occasional maintenance.
My Lift was a Custom fit as i wanted it partly submerged into the floor and was supplied by Equipment4Garages in St Albans it is the Ace Peak full height lift the Cost fitted will vary depending on your location,budget around £2500.
This type of lift unlike some others of this type does not require any ground work however its important that your floor is thick enough and ideally reinforced due to headroom i can only use 1.5 meters of height however it will go to 2 meters while maintaining stability.
There are a number of companies that supply lifts and as i did worth shopping around however after shopping around i found that my choice of supplier was certainly the right one http://www.garageequipment.co.uk/.
They do exactly what they say they will do fitting is done by well trained engineers and price is extremely competitive .
However there are others i looked at such as strong man etc however the price is rather higher.
People say well they are cheap Chinese imports well so is probably the phone in your pocket and buying from a respected company who visits the factories where they are made and works with the manufactures to improve and insure quality is great.
Having spent 3 days at the NEC Last year and may well do again this year helping to man there display while showing my Tuscan at the same time sharing about the car and selling the lifts it was a very interesting exercise as so many people have different needs and expectations of what they want and need and different Garages and even some that wanted it outside and movable all applications there was either an option on display or one available that was not.
If you have space to store a car and walk around it then you have space for a lift.
And there is one to fit most peoples budget as well ,many where amazed that for less than a major service on a Porsche they could have there own lift installed.
When i build the other Garage i will install at least one parking lift and maybe a two post lift i was interested to see that two post lifts can also be converted to have platforms as many dont like the idea of storing a car with there wheels hanging down as many do with a two post or even a single post.
Hope that answers your question Alan
Maybe others who have had a lift installed can add to the thread and share there experience with it
Andrew
Edited by Andrew Gray on Saturday 22 July 15:48
Thanks Andrew,
it looks like you have a good setup . With the canter lever lifts it's possible when there is not a lot of headroom.
I have a garage under my house which is 80 sq metres but the headroom is only 2 metres.
My car trailer is in the garage and hitched to the end wall. This means i can put a car on the trailer and slide underneath to work under a car but it's not too easy.
Alan
it looks like you have a good setup . With the canter lever lifts it's possible when there is not a lot of headroom.
I have a garage under my house which is 80 sq metres but the headroom is only 2 metres.
My car trailer is in the garage and hitched to the end wall. This means i can put a car on the trailer and slide underneath to work under a car but it's not too easy.
Alan
plasticpig72 said:
Thanks Andrew,
it looks like you have a good setup . With the canter lever lifts it's possible when there is not a lot of headroom.
I have a garage under my house which is 80 sq metres but the headroom is only 2 metres.
My car trailer is in the garage and hitched to the end wall. This means i can put a car on the trailer and slide underneath to work under a car but it's not too easy.
Alan
Alan. This may be a better option for you. I had a lot of thinking about various scenarios before I bought my lift and settled on a scissor lift.it looks like you have a good setup . With the canter lever lifts it's possible when there is not a lot of headroom.
I have a garage under my house which is 80 sq metres but the headroom is only 2 metres.
My car trailer is in the garage and hitched to the end wall. This means i can put a car on the trailer and slide underneath to work under a car but it's not too easy.
Alan
My thoughts..
4 post ramps are good if all you want to do is park a car and stack 1 car above another. They get very frustrating if you want to work on the corners of the car because you still need to jack with a jacking beam, plus the long runways get in the way
2 post ramps are much better to allow all 4 corners to be worked on, No runways in the way and you can still stack cars if required.
Scissor lifts give the advantages of a 2 post but have the added advantage of folding virtually flat and out of the way when not in use so they don't take up wall space..
The full (double cantilever) lifts are fixed so in my view if you are going to fix the lift then you will be better off with a 2 poster so you can also stack.
I eventually went for the automotech mid rise lift since I wanted to have the ability of being able to roll it out of the garage to work on my other cars and vans etc.
On balance I think the automotech for me was better value It worked out at £1700 approx inc the VAT and Delivered. The guy who Andrew got his lift of also sells a very similar product to the one I have listed here so which you choose probably depends on the shipping costs and where you reside.
There are a couple of other brands out there all with slight differences some fully electro-mechanical. Mine needs an air line to lift the interlocks out of the way. The only thing you can't do with the scissor lift is stack cars. It is a good compromise for everything else though..
The only other compromise that I can think of is maybe the frame getting in the way of an engine crane if you want to do an engine lift while the car is on the ramp.
This is the bumff for mine which I am over the moon with
http://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-75...
Edited by Dollyman1850 on Saturday 22 July 17:52
What's wrong with lying on your back swearing and cursing, getting covered in s
te, and when a speck of dirt drops in your eye instinctively lifting your head and banging it on a cross member, not being able to walk straight for a week after one night in the garage, and of course the joy of an inspection lamp exploding in your ear hole?
I wish I could get one, lovely bits of kit!
te, and when a speck of dirt drops in your eye instinctively lifting your head and banging it on a cross member, not being able to walk straight for a week after one night in the garage, and of course the joy of an inspection lamp exploding in your ear hole?I wish I could get one, lovely bits of kit!
GAjon said:
What's wrong with lying on your back swearing and cursing, getting covered in ste, and when a speck of dirt drops in your eye instinctively lifting your head and banging it on a cross member, not being able to walk straight for a week after one night in the garage, and of course the joy of an inspection lamp exploding in your ear hole?
I wish I could get one, lovely bits of kit!
Oh the happy memories te, and when a speck of dirt drops in your eye instinctively lifting your head and banging it on a cross member, not being able to walk straight for a week after one night in the garage, and of course the joy of an inspection lamp exploding in your ear hole?I wish I could get one, lovely bits of kit!
maybe one day we will have a power cut and i can re live those days 
My favorite piece of kit was this baby very adaptable and in a very level smooth floor can be moved around with ease like a pallet truck however it all depends on the space you have i considered a two post with platforms however with the width of my garage it would have been obstructive and as i was limited on head room it would not have allowed for storage of another car.
I guess there are so many variants for exactly the reason i said earlier everyone i spoke to at the NEC had different reasons and applications.
This one i sold to a guy who owns a factory making trailers and was just right for his application.
http://www.garageequipment.co.uk/Garage-Lifts/1-Po...
Andrew
The biggest issue I found with these lifts was finding one that could be delivered to my house as I live in in a tight Cul de Sac, the lifts weigh about 700kg so moving them about (ok on a even surface) and getting them up the slight ramp and into the garage was going to be a problem. Plus most companies that I spoke to delivered them on an articulated truck. Finally found a company that could collect it and deliver it.
Next issue I found was that the ramp sat a bit high about 4 inch or so which was ok for the Vixen but on the Griff I was struggling to get the rubber blocks in. The next issue was that with the fitted ramps they come with I found that the Griff had to be positioned exactly or the ramps would touch the tyres when it was lifted and you couldn't move the steering from lock to lock with the wheel fitted. The Vixen couldn't be put on the ramp without both front and rear wheels touching the ramps. See picture below
So I decided to get rid of the built on ramps and build my own out of some timber which makes it much easier.
The Vixen now fits easy and it's so much better to drive on and off. The wood ramps can be moved out of the way while your working on the car. I must say this is one of the best things that I have bought. It makes jobs so much better even things like cleaning your alloys just take it up in the air and sit on a buffet while cleaning same with polishing. I would advise any one to get one. Mine was £1350 with a 2 year guarantee plus it cost me £200 to have it delivered.
Chris
Next issue I found was that the ramp sat a bit high about 4 inch or so which was ok for the Vixen but on the Griff I was struggling to get the rubber blocks in. The next issue was that with the fitted ramps they come with I found that the Griff had to be positioned exactly or the ramps would touch the tyres when it was lifted and you couldn't move the steering from lock to lock with the wheel fitted. The Vixen couldn't be put on the ramp without both front and rear wheels touching the ramps. See picture below
So I decided to get rid of the built on ramps and build my own out of some timber which makes it much easier.
The Vixen now fits easy and it's so much better to drive on and off. The wood ramps can be moved out of the way while your working on the car. I must say this is one of the best things that I have bought. It makes jobs so much better even things like cleaning your alloys just take it up in the air and sit on a buffet while cleaning same with polishing. I would advise any one to get one. Mine was £1350 with a 2 year guarantee plus it cost me £200 to have it delivered.
Chris
Looks great Chris
A bit like i did only my wooded blocks are the whole floor i also removed the locking arms in the ramps so they drop down more so they are only used for driving on and off rather than a longer platform Equipment for Garages use a smaller truck to deliver with a small crane on so there would have been no issue with the delivery
What you have looks great though as you say the best bit of kit you can have in the garage
Andrew
A bit like i did only my wooded blocks are the whole floor i also removed the locking arms in the ramps so they drop down more so they are only used for driving on and off rather than a longer platform Equipment for Garages use a smaller truck to deliver with a small crane on so there would have been no issue with the delivery
What you have looks great though as you say the best bit of kit you can have in the garage
Andrew
These look fantastic. A couple of Qs:
- Can they be moved about or are they bolted to the garage floor? I imagine on a nice sunny day it would be good to roll out on to the drive and work on the car outside.
- TVR specific question but is it OK that they seem to lift using just the outriggers? It looks like all the weight from the engine and drive line is then effectively unsupported - are the outriggers strong enough to support all the weight? What if rusty?
- Can they be moved about or are they bolted to the garage floor? I imagine on a nice sunny day it would be good to roll out on to the drive and work on the car outside.
- TVR specific question but is it OK that they seem to lift using just the outriggers? It looks like all the weight from the engine and drive line is then effectively unsupported - are the outriggers strong enough to support all the weight? What if rusty?
UberMeister said:
These look fantastic. A couple of Qs:
- Can they be moved about or are they bolted to the garage floor? I imagine on a nice sunny day it would be good to roll out on to the drive and work on the car outside.
- TVR specific question but is it OK that they seem to lift using just the outriggers? It looks like all the weight from the engine and drive line is then effectively unsupported - are the outriggers strong enough to support all the weight? What if rusty?
My lift is by Automotech and I have to say that I have no issues with wheel clearance with a LWB vixen. My SWB Griff with big tyres is very close when on the ramp to the run on ramps but just about clears.- Can they be moved about or are they bolted to the garage floor? I imagine on a nice sunny day it would be good to roll out on to the drive and work on the car outside.
- TVR specific question but is it OK that they seem to lift using just the outriggers? It looks like all the weight from the engine and drive line is then effectively unsupported - are the outriggers strong enough to support all the weight? What if rusty?
The Automotech one listed above is portable but they are metal castors so to move it easily you need a relatively smooth surface..There are other lifts with chunkier rubber castors which would make moving a little easier. The ability to move it was the reason I bought mine.
The car lift lifts the car by using rubber blocks placed under the 4 corners. If you wanted to lift from somewhere different then you could always use additional timbers but lifting a car squarely on 4 corners is absolutely fine.
N.
UberMeister said:
These look fantastic. A couple of Qs:
- Can they be moved about or are they bolted to the garage floor? I imagine on a nice sunny day it would be good to roll out on to the drive and work on the car outside.
- TVR specific question but is it OK that they seem to lift using just the outriggers? It looks like all the weight from the engine and drive line is then effectively unsupported - are the outriggers strong enough to support all the weight? What if rusty?
As for moving mine is fixed as it a full height model rather tan Mid height.- Can they be moved about or are they bolted to the garage floor? I imagine on a nice sunny day it would be good to roll out on to the drive and work on the car outside.
- TVR specific question but is it OK that they seem to lift using just the outriggers? It looks like all the weight from the engine and drive line is then effectively unsupported - are the outriggers strong enough to support all the weight? What if rusty?
As for lifting on the corners its not ideal and given a preference i would not do so but the space i have dictated what lift i had i intend on designing some cross braces that will slide in and use the main chassis as support.
Andrew
V6Pushfit said:
Hmmm if I lifted from the outriggers the doors wouldn't shut! I think if I went that way I'd look out for a platform lift and jack from that if I needed a wheel free.
I agree not ideal i have just finished designing a part that will go across the platforms and will be adjustable to allow the car to be lifted on the main frame.However no issue on my doors so maybe worth checking your outriggers
Andrew
You have a car which weighs approx 900kg.
How do you jack it up when you are at the side of the road with a puncture??
The car has a triangulated chassis with corner plates. a Fibreglass monocoque is then bolted to the chassis at these corners and a number of other attachment points to stiffen the vehicle further!!
A flat platform lift then lifts the car evenly on each corner via a supporting rubber block.. thus 4 contact points acting evenly will distribute the weight as even 1/4's
Will someone tell me what is not ideal because from any engineering perspective I do not understand what can be considered not ideal lifting a car in this manner?
How do you jack it up when you are at the side of the road with a puncture??
The car has a triangulated chassis with corner plates. a Fibreglass monocoque is then bolted to the chassis at these corners and a number of other attachment points to stiffen the vehicle further!!
A flat platform lift then lifts the car evenly on each corner via a supporting rubber block.. thus 4 contact points acting evenly will distribute the weight as even 1/4's
Will someone tell me what is not ideal because from any engineering perspective I do not understand what can be considered not ideal lifting a car in this manner?
Edited by Dollyman1850 on Saturday 26th August 10:53
Dollyman1850 said:
You have a car which weighs approx 900kg.
How do you jack it up when you are at the side of the road with a puncture??
The car has a triangulated chassis with corner plates. a Fibreglass monocoque is then bolted to the chassis at these corners and a number of other attachment points to stiffen the vehicle further!!
A flat platform lift then lifts the car evenly on each corner via a supporting rubber block.. thus 4 contact points acting evenly will distribute the weight as even 1/4's
Will someone tell me what is not ideal because from any engineering perspective I do not understand what can be considered not ideal lifting a car in this manner?
Lifting from the main chassis, naturally. Particularly if the car is on the lift for a few days as thats rather different to changing a wheel.How do you jack it up when you are at the side of the road with a puncture??
The car has a triangulated chassis with corner plates. a Fibreglass monocoque is then bolted to the chassis at these corners and a number of other attachment points to stiffen the vehicle further!!
A flat platform lift then lifts the car evenly on each corner via a supporting rubber block.. thus 4 contact points acting evenly will distribute the weight as even 1/4's
Will someone tell me what is not ideal because from any engineering perspective I do not understand what can be considered not ideal lifting a car in this manner?
Edited by Dollyman1850 on Saturday 26th August 10:53
V6Pushfit said:
Lifting from the main chassis, naturally. Particularly if the car is on the lift for a few days as thats rather different to changing a wheel.
You're already doing that by virtue of lifting the car whilst the body is bolted on.When the car is sitting on its wheels what is supporting the chassis !!
N.
Dollyman1850 said:
You have a car which weighs approx 900kg.
How do you jack it up when you are at the side of the road with a puncture??
The car has a triangulated chassis with corner plates. a Fibreglass monocoque is then bolted to the chassis at these corners and a number of other attachment points to stiffen the vehicle further!!
A flat platform lift then lifts the car evenly on each corner via a supporting rubber block.. thus 4 contact points acting evenly will distribute the weight as even 1/4's
Will someone tell me what is not ideal because from any engineering perspective I do not understand what can be considered not ideal lifting a car in this manner?
NeilHow do you jack it up when you are at the side of the road with a puncture??
The car has a triangulated chassis with corner plates. a Fibreglass monocoque is then bolted to the chassis at these corners and a number of other attachment points to stiffen the vehicle further!!
A flat platform lift then lifts the car evenly on each corner via a supporting rubber block.. thus 4 contact points acting evenly will distribute the weight as even 1/4's
Will someone tell me what is not ideal because from any engineering perspective I do not understand what can be considered not ideal lifting a car in this manner?
Edited by Dollyman1850 on Saturday 26th August 10:53
For emergency jacking up at the side of the road its obviously what you do i just feel that for long periods of time its better to utilize the main chassis.
However if someone has issues with doors not opening when they do that then i would suggest that there is a weakness in either outriggers or how its bolted to the body or both.
I can understand that issue when jacking one corner as there is flex in the frame/body however there should not be when all 4 corners are raised together
Andrew
Dollyman1850 said:
You're already doing that by virtue of lifting the car whilst the body is bolted on.
When the car is sitting on its wheels what is supporting the chassis !!
N.
I'm not leaving the car supported on its outriggers that's for sure. When the car is sitting on its wheels what is supporting the chassis !!
N.
On a side note a Freelanders doors won't shut if opposite diagonal wheels are off the ground. And that's a fact.
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