68 Vixen S2 starting issues

68 Vixen S2 starting issues

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Discussion

boomstick33

Original Poster:

8 posts

97 months

Saturday 21st January 2017
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The Vixen I'm working on hasn't been started in about 15 years when I purchased it, plus this is my first British car I've ever worked on too. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the carb, replaced fuel line, new spark plugs/rotor/cap & a new coil. The engine turns over without issue but won't fire, there's basically no spark at the spark plug. If I pull the wire off the coil & put it close to metal there's barely a spark if any at all. I'm at a loss...I see the coil wires into a Lucas 6RA relay that's right next to the coil then to the starter itself. The carb is getting fuel & shoots fuel into the engine, so it's all spark. Is the relay causing issues because I'm not familiar with Lucas systems at all. If this was one of my old Mustangs or my old Firebird from the late 60's, i'd have a better idea of what i'm doing. If the relay is the cause, is there a way to bypass it or replace it...is there a way to test it? Thanks guys.

Dollyman1850

6,319 posts

257 months

Saturday 21st January 2017
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boomstick33 said:
The Vixen I'm working on hasn't been started in about 15 years when I purchased it, plus this is my first British car I've ever worked on too. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the carb, replaced fuel line, new spark plugs/rotor/cap & a new coil. The engine turns over without issue but won't fire, there's basically no spark at the spark plug. If I pull the wire off the coil & put it close to metal there's barely a spark if any at all. I'm at a loss...I see the coil wires into a Lucas 6RA relay that's right next to the coil then to the starter itself. The carb is getting fuel & shoots fuel into the engine, so it's all spark. Is the relay causing issues because I'm not familiar with Lucas systems at all. If this was one of my old Mustangs or my old Firebird from the late 60's, i'd have a better idea of what i'm doing. If the relay is the cause, is there a way to bypass it or replace it...is there a way to test it? Thanks guys.
Run a wire from a 12v battery directly to the coil to see if that improves the spark…other than that are you sure you are not 180 degrees out..common one especially if it isn't even trying to fire

boomstick33

Original Poster:

8 posts

97 months

Sunday 22nd January 2017
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Dollyman1850 said:
Run a wire from a 12v battery directly to the coil to see if that improves the spark…other than that are you sure you are not 180 degrees out..common one especially if it isn't even trying to fire
I tried running the wire from the battery directly to the coil & no luck...no spark. I've tried 3 different coils & all the same so I'm guessing it's not the coil. I'll pull the coil wire off the distributor & test for spark & nothing. I just don't know if i'm missing something in the Lucas wiring setup of the car.

anonymous-user

61 months

Sunday 22nd January 2017
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Not an answer but these are great for testing. Fit them to all plugs while cranking it makes it much easier.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141601542136

Are you points opening?

phillpot

17,279 posts

190 months

Sunday 22nd January 2017
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Still running points/condenser?


Think that's where I'd be looking next scratchchin





There's nothing very complicated about Lucas wiring, unless the smoke has escaped. Replacement is available but watch out for poor quality Chinese copies wink


plasticpig72

1,647 posts

156 months

Sunday 22nd January 2017
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I hope the points are fitted correctly with the insulating washer in place and supply is not going direct to earth
Alan

nwarner

612 posts

267 months

Sunday 22nd January 2017
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Remove the distributor cap switch the ignition on and open and close the points using a screwdriver. You should see it spark, if not check they are installed correctly and try also try a different condenser. Also some points have a film of grease over them when new so check that the points contact surfaces are clean. If they spark then it could be a faulty rotor arm or as previously suggested the timing could be 180 degrees out.

Good luck

Nige

boomstick33

Original Poster:

8 posts

97 months

Sunday 22nd January 2017
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here's a good question before I continue...is this a positive or negative grounded car? I'm guessing positive ground, correct? Unlike the American muscle cars I usually work on.

phazed

22,000 posts

211 months

Sunday 22nd January 2017
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I haven't checked mine as I haven't had the car long but sitting here comfortably on my sofa, aren't they negative earth?

phillpot

17,279 posts

190 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
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boomstick33 said:
here's a good question before I continue....
Negative, have you found the battery, probably not in the same place as on your Muscle cars?

anonymous-user

61 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
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Sounds like its points not opening to me.

boomstick33

Original Poster:

8 posts

97 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Negative, have you found the battery, probably not in the same place as on your Muscle cars?
I was wondering because the actual red wire goes from the battery to the frame & the engine block where the black wire goes to the coil/starter...not that the color of the battery hookups mean anything because i've seen them switched by accident before but this was leading me to think it is positive grounded.

phillpot

17,279 posts

190 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
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boomstick33 said:
I was wondering because the actual red wire goes from the battery to the frame & the engine block
What shape battery terminals do you have? If round posts +ve is larger than -ve, if square L type (commonly used by Ford) bit trickier if markings worn off. Got a test meter, that'll tell you and if not get one, dirt cheap these days, trying to fix electrics without one is like trying to find a fuel leak with your eyes shut! ... wink

anonymous-user

61 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
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Sounds like you need to affirm the basics and work from there. Are you ok checking the points/gap etc? You are best replacing anyway by the sounds of it and should have a fingernail thickness between when they are open.

boomstick33

Original Poster:

8 posts

97 months

Friday 27th January 2017
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phillpot said:
What shape battery terminals do you have? If round posts +ve is larger than -ve, if square L type (commonly used by Ford) bit trickier if markings worn off. Got a test meter, that'll tell you and if not get one, dirt cheap these days, trying to fix electrics without one is like trying to find a fuel leak with your eyes shut! ... wink
Their the round type, but I do have a test meter...that's on the docket for this weekend. I did replace the points & condenser as well so its ready for another try this weekend. I'll hopefully report back good news...

anonymous-user

61 months

Friday 27th January 2017
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Good luck. Is there really no + or - stamped on the battery under the grime as I thought they all had them?