Aurelius' s question 2 - Taimar rear exhaust hanger

[aureliusTVR]

A few months ago I purchased a new fangled rear exhaust bracket from Adrian. During a phone call he explained how his design had the advantage of putting the rubber bobbins under compression rather than under stress. In the first pic, you can see the the existing bodge I've inherited with the thick red wire supporting the exhausts after the bobbins have sheared.
Pic2 shows the new bracket. Now forgive my ignorance but I'm always going to put my daft questions to fellow PHrs rather than pester Mr V. The only way I can see to mount the bracket with the bobbins under compression would be to remove one of the two upper mounts, slide the remaining one to a central position to align with the single bolt on the bracket. If I were to fix the two upper mounts into the 2 bobbins, they would not be under compression and I would need to drill a single hole in the lower (slightly bent) metal strip
Hope this makes sense.and maybe the easiest solution is if someone already has this design fitted and could supply a pic?

[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/SBCo6y7S[/url]
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/0uXGnZvr[/url]


Any suggestions please

Aw b****r, the pics are upside down! Hope your viewing with a tablet and not doing headstands

Edited by aureliusTVR on Wednesday 14th December 21:57

[Andrew Gray]

Well from the pictures it looks simple never fitted one but having a guess
Two brackets on the chassis remove clean one and replace in the middle use that as the mounting point for the single bolt end and your sorted if need be add spacers
Andrew

[plasticpig72]

imho remove all the old rusted things first.
Then as Andrew has said.
It looks like the chassis needs a good clean and a drop of paint
Alan

Edited by plasticpig72 on Friday 16th December 15:32

[aureliusTVR]

Thanks chaps
Hmm, regarding the chassis, I hate doing half a job and the prospect of trying to paint a chassis with the body still attached does not appeal but is this the wrong approach?,can a reasonable job be achieved?
I don't intend the car to see much rain so it shouldn't deteriorate unduly and I'd be happy to do a body off/ shot blasting/powder coat in few years
Could be the making of a new thread here

[Andrew Gray]

aureliusTVR said:

Thanks chaps
Hmm, regarding the chassis, I hate doing half a job and the prospect of trying to paint a chassis with the body still attached does not appeal but is this the wrong approach?,can a reasonable job be achieved?
I don't intend the car to see much rain so it shouldn't deteriorate unduly and I'd be happy to do a body off/ shot blasting/powder coat in few years
Could be the making of a new thread here

Well probably not as if its that bad there it will be probably even worse further up under where you cant see only you can decide yes the only proper way IMOP is to take the Body off.
Once you do you will find lots more to address but worth it in the end.
Andrew

Edited by Andrew Gray on Saturday 17th December 07:02

[aureliusTVR]

These pictures in isolation don´t reflect the overall chassis condition to be fair. The rest does look to have been treated with a healthy dose of waxoyl or similar. The car was subject to a full pre- purchase inspection by Stephen from Selby TVR and he found all "visible chassis " to be sound, but I am aware the bits that are not visible may well be in far worse fettle.
My reluctance to removing the body at this stage is I dont yet have the funds for the engine rebuild/body prep/ respray etc etc so I'd end up with a newly prepared chassis sat in the garage for a 2/3 years and me unable to enjoy using the car in the interim.

[GAjon]

Good approach, don't barrel into a body off. Use the car and start collecting the parts you are going to replace over time.
No matter which way you cut it a body off is quite an expense. Time and space required is also a big consideration.

Any temp repair you can do in the meantime won't be a waste though.

Edited by GAjon on Saturday 17th December 12:30

[anonymous-user]

GAjon said:

Good approach, don't barrel into a body off. Use the car and start collecting the parts you are going to replace over time.
No matter which way you cut it a body off is quite an expense. Time and space required is also a big consideration.

Any temp repair you can do in the meantime won't be a waste though.

Edited by GAjon on Saturday 17th December 12:30

Maybe add, if its a first TVR you may find you don't enjoy it as much as you expected, nothing worse than spending a fortune and not liking the end result..

[plasticpig72]

That's true, maybe it's better to spray oil or something on what looks rusty. Do the things so you can drive and get the TVR feeling first.
Alan

[aureliusTVR]

Oh it's a keeper, I may not have driven more than 40 miles but I regetted selling my 3000m for they last 20 odd years!

[plasticpig72]

I'm working on my 3000M at the moment and i've taken the exhaust system off.
I'll take some photos of the brackets and parts.
It's a stainless system very well made and very strong.
No front resonaters just back boxes and it sounds great.
Noisier than my 3000S which also has a stainless system but 4 boxes (i think JP make!)
I can find out what make the 2 box system on my 3000M is because i have kept contact with previous owner.
Alan

Edited by plasticpig72 on Saturday 17th December 17:36

[Andrew Gray]

aureliusTVR said:

Thanks chaps
Hmm, regarding the chassis, I hate doing half a job and the prospect of trying to paint a chassis with the body still attached does not appeal but is this the wrong approach?,can a reasonable job be achieved?
I don't intend the car to see much rain so it shouldn't deteriorate unduly and I'd be happy to do a body off/ shot blasting/powder coat in few years
Could be the making of a new thread here

Very Wise just enjoy as long as it passes an MOT your ok and when its doesn't you know its time
Andrew

[tomtrout]

It looks to me as if the bobbins should be bolted onto the other side of the bracket to be in compression?

[tomtrout]

Sorry, meant to add that you don't need to drill out the cross bar as the exhaust brackets which grip the chassis tube can be loosened and re-positioned along the chassis tubes to match the bobbin locations. At least that how it looks to me looking upside down at my computer screen!

[aureliusTVR]

Thanks all, next time I get a chance to escape to the garage, I'll let you know the outcome and take some pics. It's got to be an improvement on the current set-up!
In truth the whole system needs replacing, there is already patch welds on the back box and it's leaking at the manifolds . A stainless system will be on an ever growing list of parts required.

[plasticpig72]

photos of bracket on my 3000M


You just need to make a bracket clamped to the Chassis to attach to the big screw on Adrian's bracket
Alan

Edited by plasticpig72 on Sunday 18th December 10:19

[aureliusTVR]

Thanks very much Alan
That's an ideal ref for me to work from

[plasticpig72]

If you need any other photos , just say no problem
Alan