bonnet frame repair 3000m-advice needed
Discussion
The bonnet frame passenger side of my TVR 3000M has corroded & split...asked the capable & decent bodywork guy who put on my new gleaming black bumpers from adrian last week & sprayed the underneath at the back to transform its look . But he sadly shook his head at the front & said would be nightmare to do (his mate had done one on a TVR before and said never again). And cost would be well over a grand. Which I cannot run to/ not valid economically
I have firmed up said bonnet with plastic foam over the front wing (hidden i hasten to add) which acts as upward pressure on that side & looked at bonnet straps as a reluctant 'alternative'. The bonnet doesn't move I should add & springs/lock at bulkhead work very well. When bonnet up I use a measured prop to keep it level with the working drivers side.Any advice chaps appreciated..... anyone tried gas struts for example?
I don't really wish to remortgage the house (but maybe that's a TVR consequence to face us all occasionally)
I have firmed up said bonnet with plastic foam over the front wing (hidden i hasten to add) which acts as upward pressure on that side & looked at bonnet straps as a reluctant 'alternative'. The bonnet doesn't move I should add & springs/lock at bulkhead work very well. When bonnet up I use a measured prop to keep it level with the working drivers side.Any advice chaps appreciated..... anyone tried gas struts for example?
I don't really wish to remortgage the house (but maybe that's a TVR consequence to face us all occasionally)
Either Adrian or DG could have you a bonnet frame, I've installed one myself, its a do-able yet fiddly job. Getting the old one out is itchy and tedious, getting the new one in requires some measuring and resin does stink (a lot !)
As Chassyman says, theres two versions
Frank
( a grand ! ffs !)
As Chassyman says, theres two versions
Frank
( a grand ! ffs !)
There's no way I would be doing the job chaps it's much beyond my competence, and to be fair my bodywork chap was suggesting unless bonnet frame split is an mot failure then mbe to look at alternatives. He has done superb fibreglass body repairs & paint on the 3000M last year & this and has been very reasonable in terms of cost .
His argument I think was that whole frame would further corrode so it would be best to completely replace / refit thro' bonnet and line up...with the latter taking several hours alone hence cost.
Thanks again though for advice/ support !
His argument I think was that whole frame would further corrode so it would be best to completely replace / refit thro' bonnet and line up...with the latter taking several hours alone hence cost.
Thanks again though for advice/ support !
For what it's worth, here my experience.
In my Vixen the bonnet frame was corroded under the glass fiber so I wanted to erect that.
The corrosion had even made a hole in the skin of the bonnet.
Took as much measurements as possible and marked the position.
The position of the frame was not in line with the front duct nor the lip of the airdam??
Cut the frame out and left some glass fiber as a pocket.
Treated the frame and replaced it, but left it as it was (with a reinforcement steel bar as brace??).
Found out that repositioning the bonnet was a pain in the ??????.
But in the end all went well.
Overall it took me many many days but at least the frame has been saved for the coming future.
Hans
In my Vixen the bonnet frame was corroded under the glass fiber so I wanted to erect that.
The corrosion had even made a hole in the skin of the bonnet.
Took as much measurements as possible and marked the position.
The position of the frame was not in line with the front duct nor the lip of the airdam??
Cut the frame out and left some glass fiber as a pocket.
Treated the frame and replaced it, but left it as it was (with a reinforcement steel bar as brace??).
Found out that repositioning the bonnet was a pain in the ??????.
But in the end all went well.
Overall it took me many many days but at least the frame has been saved for the coming future.
Hans
If I remember correctly Adrian has posted a step by step guide to how to do this on here a few years ago. Again if I recall correctly, this is best carried out engine out for ease of access.
Bonnet frame removed and underside of bonnet cleaned up
New frame attached to chassis
Bonnet positioned and adjusted in relation to tub and held in correct orientation
New bonnet frame rotated into correct alignment from under the car
Strips of mat glassed in to tack in place
When cured bonnet gently removed For further glassing.
Refit and check before completing
Bonnet frame removed and underside of bonnet cleaned up
New frame attached to chassis
Bonnet positioned and adjusted in relation to tub and held in correct orientation
New bonnet frame rotated into correct alignment from under the car
Strips of mat glassed in to tack in place
When cured bonnet gently removed For further glassing.
Refit and check before completing
Hi A,
Having done the job and tried to find the easiest and best way I have some remarks on the steps below. Just to help others who like to get their hands dirty.
It's a bit like "who is first, the check or the egg". You start with 2 loose parts and still wants them to lign up and rotate.
Bonnet frame removed and underside of bonnet cleaned up (I would always marks the old position first.)
New frame attached to chassis ( easy )
Bonnet positioned and adjusted in relation to tub and held in correct orientation ( not easy because you can not controle wheater the bonnet does not clash with the frame when opening)
New bonnet frame rotated into correct alignment from under the car
(frame will drop/ rotatie down so have to be temporary but solid fixed)
Strips of mat glassed in to tack in place ( have you ever glassed up site down? Nearly impossible)
When cured bonnet gently removed For further glassing.
Refit and check before completing
[/quote]
Having done the job and tried to find the easiest and best way I have some remarks on the steps below. Just to help others who like to get their hands dirty.
It's a bit like "who is first, the check or the egg". You start with 2 loose parts and still wants them to lign up and rotate.
Bonnet frame removed and underside of bonnet cleaned up (I would always marks the old position first.)
New frame attached to chassis ( easy )
Bonnet positioned and adjusted in relation to tub and held in correct orientation ( not easy because you can not controle wheater the bonnet does not clash with the frame when opening)
New bonnet frame rotated into correct alignment from under the car
(frame will drop/ rotatie down so have to be temporary but solid fixed)
Strips of mat glassed in to tack in place ( have you ever glassed up site down? Nearly impossible)
When cured bonnet gently removed For further glassing.
Refit and check before completing
[/quote]
Interesting..
If I was going to do it like that, I'd change the last parts to:
o car up on stands, wheels removed
o align frame with chassis fairly accurately
o place bonnet on top and align as well as you can
o push/rotate frame up to meet bonnet firmly - adjust brackets to fit up as well as possible
o use Tiger Seal from a mastic gun to spot 'tack' the frame to the bonnet in a number of places
o leave a day to set, then remove bonnet/frame assembly
o 'glass in place, avoiding the Tiger seal
o cut out the Tiger seal and complete the 'glass
Alternatively, you could probably Tiger seal the bonnet in place completely - it's really tough stuff!
If I was going to do it like that, I'd change the last parts to:
o car up on stands, wheels removed
o align frame with chassis fairly accurately
o place bonnet on top and align as well as you can
o push/rotate frame up to meet bonnet firmly - adjust brackets to fit up as well as possible
o use Tiger Seal from a mastic gun to spot 'tack' the frame to the bonnet in a number of places
o leave a day to set, then remove bonnet/frame assembly
o 'glass in place, avoiding the Tiger seal
o cut out the Tiger seal and complete the 'glass
Alternatively, you could probably Tiger seal the bonnet in place completely - it's really tough stuff!
surely to make a new frame is not that difficult. If you can remove the old tube in one piece and use as a pattern. A local plumber or gas fitter can put the new tube in his pipe bender and make a new one.
On my 3000S i have a quick release system with clips which is very handy. Maybe Adrian has a quick release kit.
Alan
On my 3000S i have a quick release system with clips which is very handy. Maybe Adrian has a quick release kit.
Alan
Wow some significant response boys much appreciated for all your posts...I am not far from Coventry based A Venns ( I live in Nottingham) so will give him a call I guess.
Problem of (someone else not me !) working at home on my TVR is I have driveway but no garage not great in Nov/ Dec.
Sorry about lack of photo I just can't seem to load up pics on this sight despite thumbnail size, thanks all again. Chris
Problem of (someone else not me !) working at home on my TVR is I have driveway but no garage not great in Nov/ Dec.
Sorry about lack of photo I just can't seem to load up pics on this sight despite thumbnail size, thanks all again. Chris
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff