Discussion
Assume you have the nut off the other end. Will the bolt through the spring / damper come out?
I think you may end up having to hacksaw down either side of the trunnion. As l am sure you know, the bolt goes through a steel sleeve within nylon bushes in the trunnion and it's probably seized in that.
Good luck!
Phil
I think you may end up having to hacksaw down either side of the trunnion. As l am sure you know, the bolt goes through a steel sleeve within nylon bushes in the trunnion and it's probably seized in that.
Good luck!
Phil
Why not remove the upper ball joint and track rod end and un screw the trunnions? This will allow you to remove the two bolts on the wishbone and work the seized bolt on the work bench/vise.
Best,
D.
Or, just remove the two wishbone fasteners and shock fixing and un screw.
Best,
D.
Or, just remove the two wishbone fasteners and shock fixing and un screw.
Edited by Grantura MKI on Thursday 29th October 22:06
Plus gas is far better than WD for penetrating, in fact coca cola is also.
Does the bolt rotate with a spanner?
If the nut is off the other side, get a socket that will go over the head of the bolt, put the nut back on the other side a few threads ( this is to give you a better landing) then get a G clamp and try to push the bolt through into the socket.
Does the bolt rotate with a spanner?
If the nut is off the other side, get a socket that will go over the head of the bolt, put the nut back on the other side a few threads ( this is to give you a better landing) then get a G clamp and try to push the bolt through into the socket.
I think i would try to take complet assembly off the car.
Then at least you can work in comfort on a bench or let the whole lot soak over night in parrafin. The problem is for sure the metal tube inside the trunnion rusted to bolt. It's normal practice to assemble with copperslip but i think you already know that.
Good luck
Alan
Then at least you can work in comfort on a bench or let the whole lot soak over night in parrafin. The problem is for sure the metal tube inside the trunnion rusted to bolt. It's normal practice to assemble with copperslip but i think you already know that.
Good luck
Alan
Having dealt with similar, I would suggest that the bolt is now one with the sleeve inside the trunion so it will never come out. The only way I found was to get a narrow cutting disc and slice down each side of the trunion.
I don't know what happens to 30-40 year old grease, but it seems to form a bond that is stronger than most tool steel! A hacksaw just wouldn't touch it when I tried. Trying to smash the bolt out with a big hammer did nothing, heating it with a blowtorch to red hot did nothing. The angle grinder was the only option.
I don't know what happens to 30-40 year old grease, but it seems to form a bond that is stronger than most tool steel! A hacksaw just wouldn't touch it when I tried. Trying to smash the bolt out with a big hammer did nothing, heating it with a blowtorch to red hot did nothing. The angle grinder was the only option.
Heat heat heat and heat.
Plus patience.
Cooling off and heating again.
But if you do so in this position all the runners in the attaches parts will go.
So best to dismantle the whole for easy working.
Looks the longest way but in the and the best.
Bolt will snap in the end anyway because you drilled it.
Good luck and have fun.
Hans
Plus patience.
Cooling off and heating again.
But if you do so in this position all the runners in the attaches parts will go.
So best to dismantle the whole for easy working.
Looks the longest way but in the and the best.
Bolt will snap in the end anyway because you drilled it.
Good luck and have fun.
Hans
Grantura MKI said:
Why not remove the upper ball joint and track rod end and un screw the trunnions? This will allow you to remove the two bolts on the wishbone and work the seized bolt on the work bench/vise.
Best,
D.
Or, just remove the two wishbone fasteners and shock fixing and un screw.
Best,
D.
Or, just remove the two wishbone fasteners and shock fixing and un screw.
Stevo302 said:
All done. Was better to take whole arm off and work on bench.
Regards.
Top advice then did you find the reason it was seized when it came off I presume your replacing with new trunnions etc prevention is always better than a cure doing the 3000s ones next week and the Vixen before the spring Regards.
Andrew
MKnight702 said:
I don't know what happens to 30-40 year old grease, but it seems to form a bond that is stronger than most tool steel! A hacksaw just wouldn't touch it when I tried. Trying to smash the bolt out with a big hammer did nothing, heating it with a blowtorch to red hot did nothing. The angle grinder was the only option.
Somewhat OT and not what you're referring to, but the trunnion itself should not be greased, it needs oil.plasticpig72 said:
Hidetheelephants,
EP oil or grease in trunnions, have a look on Elannet about the never ending saga grease, oil, or mixure of both.
Nobody agrees on this
Or fit the Caterham part
Alan
It is susceptible to the same oil/grease tedium as landrover swivels. The OE advice was oil with gear oil every 6000 miles; that's a bit infrequent unless you're doing a lot of miles because it's effectively an unsealed oilbath, the only thing keeping it clean and lubricated is gravity and regular replenishment. Grease is just the wrong lubricant, once it is extruded from the thread by steering loads it doesn't flow back. Grease can be used and people won't die in a fiery ball of death, but it's not ideal and the swivel may wear out faster.EP oil or grease in trunnions, have a look on Elannet about the never ending saga grease, oil, or mixure of both.
Nobody agrees on this
Or fit the Caterham part
Alan
Edited by plasticpig72 on Sunday 1st November 06:12
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