Stinking Vixen
Discussion
Check tank filler neck connection . All lines within the tank bay. Chaffing of the tank from the brackets and floor area
The fuel smell phenomenon is getting worse since modern unleaded fuels bleed fumes through the old type of fuel pipes.
When you buy fuel pipe you can specifically get better quality stuff for unleaded fuels.
Check also where fuel pipes go through the bodywork into the rear bay.
I always drill reasonably large grometed holes in the underbelly area below the tank bay..then you can check for leaks before removing tanks etc..
If smell at front, check filter and regulator connections and check carb connection when running
DON"T Ignore. Your car is getting a lot more valuable and we wouldn't want to loose it.
N.
The fuel smell phenomenon is getting worse since modern unleaded fuels bleed fumes through the old type of fuel pipes.
When you buy fuel pipe you can specifically get better quality stuff for unleaded fuels.
Check also where fuel pipes go through the bodywork into the rear bay.
I always drill reasonably large grometed holes in the underbelly area below the tank bay..then you can check for leaks before removing tanks etc..
If smell at front, check filter and regulator connections and check carb connection when running
DON"T Ignore. Your car is getting a lot more valuable and we wouldn't want to loose it.
N.
Ok I will not ignore it although I really really want to. It has been difficult sorting this as I have had blocked sinuses with hay fever all summer and can not smell much. The car is driven by my girl friend and she says the petrol smell is strong in the cab and not in the engine bay. I have done some digging this morning and have basically got from fuel tank a rubber pipe through baulk head with a grommet into copper pipe that runs into engine bay then back to rubber to the regulator , carb etc.
I have checked the lot for visual leaks and can see nothing leaking. I have checked the jubilee clips no problems there. Is the fuel line from tank to engine bay under pressure when engine is running ? I was thinking it may only leak under pressure. All round the tank is dry but I think this area is maybe the problem. on top of the tank I have the fuel gauge sender lid which has what looks like melted glue round it, very sticky. It makes no difference if tank is low or full with fuel ,smell still there. Can I get tank out with the rear screen left in ? Any one got any logical steps forward please. The picture of pipe from bottom right of tank going through baulk head with grommet does have some what look like surface cracks and I will replace this soon as I figure out how to empty the tank of what fuel is in there at the moment.
Bottom right of tank dry
bottom tank pipe through baulk head
fuel sender with sticky stuff round it
cracks in pipe after it goes through baulk head into copper pipe
copper to rubber as it goes through baulk head in rear of cab
I have checked the lot for visual leaks and can see nothing leaking. I have checked the jubilee clips no problems there. Is the fuel line from tank to engine bay under pressure when engine is running ? I was thinking it may only leak under pressure. All round the tank is dry but I think this area is maybe the problem. on top of the tank I have the fuel gauge sender lid which has what looks like melted glue round it, very sticky. It makes no difference if tank is low or full with fuel ,smell still there. Can I get tank out with the rear screen left in ? Any one got any logical steps forward please. The picture of pipe from bottom right of tank going through baulk head with grommet does have some what look like surface cracks and I will replace this soon as I figure out how to empty the tank of what fuel is in there at the moment.
Bottom right of tank dry
bottom tank pipe through baulk head
fuel sender with sticky stuff round it
cracks in pipe after it goes through baulk head into copper pipe
copper to rubber as it goes through baulk head in rear of cab
77racing said:
Can I get tank out with the rear screen left in ?
No. Screen out I'm afraid. Me thinks that a fluid 'leak' around the tank would leave a stain mark. Maybe it's just fumes seeping into the cabin from around the sender cap.
Otherwise it could be leaking carb(s). Is there any yellow staining to the carb body(s)? Any fumes could easily get into the cabin where they would linger but would not linger in the engine bay.
Good luck....
So far I have replaced the bottom outlet fuel hose that was cracked and I have cleaned up the sender unit and resealed that. As Adrian says I will double clip the filler pipe. ( Good to meet you Adrian at Donny last weekend ). As I see it now I have the bottom brass outlet boss, filler neck, leak in tank it's self as possible culprits as I have addressed the other two this afternoon. I have just fitted a new carb during the week so am sure it's a problem in cab not in engine bay. I take it only way to find out if I have sorted it is to fill with petrol again and see. What a ball ache when you can't see the leak. I shall go to bed worrying that the underside of the tank has a leak and that rear screen has to come out, I was really hoping it would slide out without having to take that out as it took a professional screen fitter and me as labourer three hours to get it in.
cracked fuel pipe
fuel sender out
cleaned up and sealed in again
underneath of fuel sender before cleaning
cracked fuel pipe
fuel sender out
cleaned up and sealed in again
underneath of fuel sender before cleaning
Adrian@ said:
Use double opposing clips on the filler neck, the second one on the very top of the tank pipe, so that when you are filling the car fuel does not sit in between the rubber pipe and the tank pipe.
Adrian@
Do you mean as the rubber pipe enters the metal tank pipe or do you mean the filler cap end ?Adrian@
I cannot 'pinch' your previous picture http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag64/racing77/...
...but another J-clip at the other end, of the rubber pipe 'feel' for the end of the tank filler neck and put another J-clip as high as you can but still on the tank filler neck and have the screw part on the opposite side.
Adrian@
...but another J-clip at the other end, of the rubber pipe 'feel' for the end of the tank filler neck and put another J-clip as high as you can but still on the tank filler neck and have the screw part on the opposite side.
Adrian@
Hi Peter I might have to consider that option mate.
So I had put the two clips on the filler neck
But the smell is too strong for it not to be a good leak, so I have grabbed the bull by the horns and taken the tank out, my local garage are going to smoke test it tomorrow see what's going on I hope. Tank came out in 20mins. Was easy and enough room with out taking out rear glass to lift out the band clamps and feed through the front seats, so that was a plus point. Do you recon Fabreeze will kill off the smell from the fibre glass round the tank or baking soda perhaps, any body got some experience getting the fumes out of the glass fibre.
So I had put the two clips on the filler neck
But the smell is too strong for it not to be a good leak, so I have grabbed the bull by the horns and taken the tank out, my local garage are going to smoke test it tomorrow see what's going on I hope. Tank came out in 20mins. Was easy and enough room with out taking out rear glass to lift out the band clamps and feed through the front seats, so that was a plus point. Do you recon Fabreeze will kill off the smell from the fibre glass round the tank or baking soda perhaps, any body got some experience getting the fumes out of the glass fibre.
Whilst you have the tank out I would drill some holes through floor in each of the areas where fuel could collect and then blank them off with good size grommets..Its a good way to let fluids out IE from screen leaks in the future but also a method of checking for leaks, using endoscopes for periodic inspections etc.
I think that if you have rust of that nature then likely as not the tank will be becoming porous.
If the tank isn't too bad you can get them fluid lined internally..
If you fancy welding it then the only way after washing out is to run a large bore tube into the tank neck and removal of the sender. Run the other end of the tube to a car exhaust and run the car engine into the tank. This will purge all fumes from the tank and leave inert combusted heavy monoxide and CO in the place of the petrol preventing any risk of flash over etc.
Tank doesn't look too bad but if it stood for a long time it could have a large scale build up internally.
A nice stainless one in there would look very pretty.
N.
I think that if you have rust of that nature then likely as not the tank will be becoming porous.
If the tank isn't too bad you can get them fluid lined internally..
If you fancy welding it then the only way after washing out is to run a large bore tube into the tank neck and removal of the sender. Run the other end of the tube to a car exhaust and run the car engine into the tank. This will purge all fumes from the tank and leave inert combusted heavy monoxide and CO in the place of the petrol preventing any risk of flash over etc.
Tank doesn't look too bad but if it stood for a long time it could have a large scale build up internally.
A nice stainless one in there would look very pretty.
N.
Edited by Dollyman1850 on Monday 14th September 20:57
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