Vixen body to chassis mounts, advice please
Discussion
I am about to to refit the body to the chassis.
When removed I found eight square rubber insulators of about 6mm thick which were sandwiched between the body and chassis pick-up points, I assume these were fitted as an ant-vibration measure.
As it is a now circuit racer vibration is not an issue and I would prefer to leave them out as the body would sit that little bit lower.
Does any one know that if I omit these will body foul anywhere on the chassis, for example the damper top mounts?
When removed I found eight square rubber insulators of about 6mm thick which were sandwiched between the body and chassis pick-up points, I assume these were fitted as an ant-vibration measure.
As it is a now circuit racer vibration is not an issue and I would prefer to leave them out as the body would sit that little bit lower.
Does any one know that if I omit these will body foul anywhere on the chassis, for example the damper top mounts?
How are you mounting your cage?
Road cars use an insulator, race cars can go straight down and / or be packed to suit your body recess where it allows outrigger to sit…In some instances it can sit down onto chassis, in some you need to pack out. Solid nylon (chopping board) is best packer generally..but solid rubber can be used.
I would firstly sit the body down and see where it touches, then check it for level and square.
Personally I would have your holes cut in the floor for the front and rear cage legs, Fit the body, pack at the front areas where it bolts down if necessary, Check fit and touch at rear cage legs then trial fit cage.. you then space the cage legs to get the cage as high up to the roof as you want (I use steel spacers laser cut to mach the 3 point cage leg) If your whole body needs lifting to clear outriggers then you can use a larger plate which will form a packer and solid mounting point for the cage,
You then bolt the body down at the front, using the packers if necessary, Bolt the body down at the rear most 2 points on the rear chassis rail, then bolt your cage in, then fibreglass up the front and rear floor areas where you have fitted the cage..
I then weld in the 2 seat cross braces between the outrigger and centre lower tube so you can have them sitting flush with your floor and provide for a better seat mounting.
N.
Road cars use an insulator, race cars can go straight down and / or be packed to suit your body recess where it allows outrigger to sit…In some instances it can sit down onto chassis, in some you need to pack out. Solid nylon (chopping board) is best packer generally..but solid rubber can be used.
I would firstly sit the body down and see where it touches, then check it for level and square.
Personally I would have your holes cut in the floor for the front and rear cage legs, Fit the body, pack at the front areas where it bolts down if necessary, Check fit and touch at rear cage legs then trial fit cage.. you then space the cage legs to get the cage as high up to the roof as you want (I use steel spacers laser cut to mach the 3 point cage leg) If your whole body needs lifting to clear outriggers then you can use a larger plate which will form a packer and solid mounting point for the cage,
You then bolt the body down at the front, using the packers if necessary, Bolt the body down at the rear most 2 points on the rear chassis rail, then bolt your cage in, then fibreglass up the front and rear floor areas where you have fitted the cage..
I then weld in the 2 seat cross braces between the outrigger and centre lower tube so you can have them sitting flush with your floor and provide for a better seat mounting.
N.
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