Discussion
VixeM said:
Hi,
anyone know how much an FIA eligible 289 Ford block would be worth?
They seem to be quite hard to find, especially on standard bores!
Cheers.
It depends what the designation of the block is.anyone know how much an FIA eligible 289 Ford block would be worth?
They seem to be quite hard to find, especially on standard bores!
Cheers.
New blocks can be bought now which are Fia compliant so really it isn't so much of an issue as it was..
A genuine HI-PO block is worth more than a std block. Std pre-66 blocks are not really worth that much since there are better blocks to use.
Pre-66 289 blocks are getting a little rarer to find these days and any block beyond 40 thou is really only good for scrap. Hence the availability of new replacement blocks these days.
For club racing where the block age isn't an issue there are better blocks to use.
N.
VixeM said:
Thanks Neil,
It's not a hi-po but is an fia compliant 65 block on standard bores.
I'm trying to decide whether to use it in my road going Tuscan clone, or if I would be better getting a later block and selling it.
Cheers.
Pre-79 blocks are OK.It's not a hi-po but is an fia compliant 65 block on standard bores.
I'm trying to decide whether to use it in my road going Tuscan clone, or if I would be better getting a later block and selling it.
Cheers.
If you are building a 331 or 347 stroker then you would be better off with a 302 block. They are interchangeable but for a stroker engine the 302 block has a deeper bore skirt which gives more support to the piston on a stroked engine.
Whatever you do make sure when you mix and match parts that you use the correct balances on the damper and flywheel.. pre and post 1979 are the dates to remember.
windsor blocks are much of a muchness, its in the heads where power is made..Pre-79 engines are generally better regards all of the low comp smog emission s
te that came later but that generally won't affect you on a 289 engine.If you are boring any proposed build then I would use a 302 block and keep hold of the std bore 289 for a rainy day. They aren't getting any more common…You will most likely sell it to a mustang owner who wants a date correct restoration than a racer though!
289 heads are pretty good on a budget engine if you aren't looking to fit aftermarket alloy heads.
Genuine HI-PO engines are the ones to have..Bigger mains caps, Better heads with 10.5 : 1 compression and worth the money all day long to someone who has an appropriate mustang to put it in.
N.
Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 19th July 11:49
Edited by Dollyman1850 on Sunday 19th July 11:59
I was thinking of building a 347 stroker, but the closer I get to doing it the more I think it would be a waste of an early 289 block!
I have already been approached by a Mustang racer but I haven't got a clue what it"s worth. I'm also tempted just to keep it, just in case I change my plans for my s1 Vixen!
Any idea of what these things sell for?
Cheers.
I have already been approached by a Mustang racer but I haven't got a clue what it"s worth. I'm also tempted just to keep it, just in case I change my plans for my s1 Vixen!
Any idea of what these things sell for?
Cheers.
You can pick std bore 289 blocks up in the states for relatively cheap, about $600 add shipping etc I would say that you could ask a grand for a bare block and see how you get on.
I would build a 331 stroker over a 347, for a road engine it doesn't matter so much though.
If you want a useable road car then I would build something much more simple!!
N.
I would build a 331 stroker over a 347, for a road engine it doesn't matter so much though.
If you want a useable road car then I would build something much more simple!!
N.
There are some good videos on you tube showing the staged rebuilds of the Windsor block.
Well worth watching if you have time as they cover all aspects of the rebuild and they have not gone max power.
Might help you choose the route you want.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ded3GowUFko&li...
Also if you looking for a later 302 type block, look in usa and then chat to some car importers, as they can add engine to shipment and you will not be hit with import duties and shipping cheaper.
Well worth watching if you have time as they cover all aspects of the rebuild and they have not gone max power.
Might help you choose the route you want.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ded3GowUFko&li...
Also if you looking for a later 302 type block, look in usa and then chat to some car importers, as they can add engine to shipment and you will not be hit with import duties and shipping cheaper.
347 is a combination that sacrifices durability, and engine efficiency for ultimate power, and was developed for a particular Mustang drag racing class, in the USA.
The wrist pin ends up in the oil scraper land, reducing ring support. Also, the short rod makes for poor angularity, reducing efficiency, and increasing side-loads, which leads to premature piston wear.
The 331, with properly selected parts, does not have these issues. As a result, you can expect the power advantage from 10% displacement increase, and no reduction of durability, compared to a 302.
Best regards,
Bernard.
The wrist pin ends up in the oil scraper land, reducing ring support. Also, the short rod makes for poor angularity, reducing efficiency, and increasing side-loads, which leads to premature piston wear.
The 331, with properly selected parts, does not have these issues. As a result, you can expect the power advantage from 10% displacement increase, and no reduction of durability, compared to a 302.
Best regards,
Bernard.
TVRMs said:
You should change your pistonheads handle to Stroker Ace !! 
N
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