3000M Engine Mods
Discussion
I am currently restoring my '76 3000M. Having delt with the chassis I am now turning my attention to the engine. I have recently purchased second hand a pair of Swaymar big valve heads and a Piper 270 fast road cam. I have already changed to electronic ignition and I am planning to convert to steel timing gear. Has anyone any experience of this combination and are there any other mods I should be considering? (ie do the valves clear the pistons, or do I need to change the pistons)
Swaymar heads are a good choice, especially if the rocker posts have been bolted, rather than the original Ford pushfit.
Until recently I had a modified Taimar, I had the following engine mods:-
Vulcan Big Valve Heads
Powermax Pistons 10:1 CR
Kent V62 Cam
Weber 40DFI
Steel Timing wheel
Fully Balanced and ports matched
The biggest power improvement came with a Tony Law exhaust system, once that was fitted the car would out-accelerate my Impreza Turbo between 30mph and 90mph, so we reckoned on 190-205bhp (given the weight differential). The Tony Law system was all tuned lengths and a bigger bore system, the stand M series exhaust is very restrictive.
Triple Webers will give a top end improvement, but will drink fuel and are a b*gger to set up.
The Powermax high compression pistons will give you a bigger bang and may be worth considering along with increased fueling, you can get the 38DGAS bored out to be a 40.
You must also look at your diff, if your car has the TR6 diff, this and its carrier are a weak point if you increase the power/torque of the engine, the carrier and the diff front mounting plate are prone to cracking, if the cars in lego form at the moment consider puting a salisbury diff in at this stage.
I would take to Burtons about the Piston recommendations or Vulcan Engineering or John Wade (through ExactlyTVR)
davidy
Until recently I had a modified Taimar, I had the following engine mods:-
Vulcan Big Valve Heads
Powermax Pistons 10:1 CR
Kent V62 Cam
Weber 40DFI
Steel Timing wheel
Fully Balanced and ports matched
The biggest power improvement came with a Tony Law exhaust system, once that was fitted the car would out-accelerate my Impreza Turbo between 30mph and 90mph, so we reckoned on 190-205bhp (given the weight differential). The Tony Law system was all tuned lengths and a bigger bore system, the stand M series exhaust is very restrictive.
Triple Webers will give a top end improvement, but will drink fuel and are a b*gger to set up.
The Powermax high compression pistons will give you a bigger bang and may be worth considering along with increased fueling, you can get the 38DGAS bored out to be a 40.
You must also look at your diff, if your car has the TR6 diff, this and its carrier are a weak point if you increase the power/torque of the engine, the carrier and the diff front mounting plate are prone to cracking, if the cars in lego form at the moment consider puting a salisbury diff in at this stage.
I would take to Burtons about the Piston recommendations or Vulcan Engineering or John Wade (through ExactlyTVR)
davidy
The 40DFI was the Weber recommended upgrade for the Essex Engine, I believe it was fitted to the Ferrari/Fiat Dino (in threes). It has no fuel saving measures therefore can overfuel when a lot of low speed driving in done.
I had a special K&N filter made up by a bloke at K&N which was designed to breathe to 230bhp and fit under the bonnet. Normal K&Ns are too tall if you modify the engine significantly and Pipercross/ITG filters breathe too much from the top.
If you modifying the engine you must think about getting air in and exhaust out, otherwise you will not get the full benefit of the mods.
It also goes without saying that you need to make sure the cooling system is spot on, I used an ExactlyTVR double depth radiator up front with twin kenlowe fans and a 74 degree stat.
If you are hunting for a diff, try and find a Salisbury Powrlok, this is the limited slip version, different ratios are available but the standard fitted to later TVRs was 3.31:1. You will also need a different carrier for the diff (Exactly TVR) and output flange plates (again Exactly TVR). The Salisbury diff is quite a bit heavier than the TR6, so your rear springs need to be in order and it only goes in from the top, whereas you can get a TR6 diff out through the side.
Hope this helps, any more questions just post away
davidy
I had a special K&N filter made up by a bloke at K&N which was designed to breathe to 230bhp and fit under the bonnet. Normal K&Ns are too tall if you modify the engine significantly and Pipercross/ITG filters breathe too much from the top.
If you modifying the engine you must think about getting air in and exhaust out, otherwise you will not get the full benefit of the mods.
It also goes without saying that you need to make sure the cooling system is spot on, I used an ExactlyTVR double depth radiator up front with twin kenlowe fans and a 74 degree stat.
If you are hunting for a diff, try and find a Salisbury Powrlok, this is the limited slip version, different ratios are available but the standard fitted to later TVRs was 3.31:1. You will also need a different carrier for the diff (Exactly TVR) and output flange plates (again Exactly TVR). The Salisbury diff is quite a bit heavier than the TR6, so your rear springs need to be in order and it only goes in from the top, whereas you can get a TR6 diff out through the side.
Hope this helps, any more questions just post away
davidy
Raz
For an information source try my website - lots already on there about the 3000M & engine mods - including how to do the work.
Hope this helps
Mark
www.minifix.supanet.com
For an information source try my website - lots already on there about the 3000M & engine mods - including how to do the work.
Hope this helps
Mark
www.minifix.supanet.com
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