replacement pull-through rear studs
Discussion
Hi Steve , all.
Are their not 2 types?, early cars threaded, later cars pull through?
My vixen 1 hubs look to be the early type as you describes, My early Vixen 2 seems to be all pull through, I can testify, since I have loose studs and stripped splines in the hub. I plan to tack weld from the rear??
Neil.
Are their not 2 types?, early cars threaded, later cars pull through?
My vixen 1 hubs look to be the early type as you describes, My early Vixen 2 seems to be all pull through, I can testify, since I have loose studs and stripped splines in the hub. I plan to tack weld from the rear??
Neil.
I think mine are "pull-through's" because the part which filles the flange (thicker then the screwthread)sticks a little bit above the flange and there is no screwthread on that ! That surface is bolt ! So I think I have to hammer it back ! But there was absolutley no movement even after heating it up !
So , how can I remove them ?
So , how can I remove them ?
I have seen literally hundreds of these pre "M" series hubs over the years and have never seen a pull through type as standard. I have however modified as many as I have seen because to be honest the screw in type are downright dangerous (in my opinion). All the early type with wire wheel adaptors were peened over on the back (Standard Vanguard) and most alloy wheeled cars had screw in longer studs but not peened over on the back (TR3). These all had a tendency to strip the threads on overtightening--particularly after the invention of the tyre fitters friend the air ratchet.
I have known so many of these studs come out when unbolting the wheel nuts you wonder what was holding the wheel on.
William ,if your studs are not peened over on the back they should unscrew if you fit 2 wheel nuts to the thread and lock them together. You can hit them forever with as big a hammer as you like and you will not knock them through.If they are peened over you will need to grind the "peening" off the rear of the hub before unscrewing the studs.
Neil, if your studs are loose they have probably had stripped threads and been overdrilled out to fit the splined studs.I normally dont drill out too much but drive the studs in to "cut" their own splines. sTeVeR
I have known so many of these studs come out when unbolting the wheel nuts you wonder what was holding the wheel on.
William ,if your studs are not peened over on the back they should unscrew if you fit 2 wheel nuts to the thread and lock them together. You can hit them forever with as big a hammer as you like and you will not knock them through.If they are peened over you will need to grind the "peening" off the rear of the hub before unscrewing the studs.
Neil, if your studs are loose they have probably had stripped threads and been overdrilled out to fit the splined studs.I normally dont drill out too much but drive the studs in to "cut" their own splines. sTeVeR
Thought so Steve. The series 1 vixen hubs are definitely peened over. My series 2 Vixen though has pull in ford type studs. I am presuming that all later vixens with the alloys have the pull in splined stud though, since i recently purchased replacements from TR Bitz in Warrington, IE Later Triumph as per John Uphams guide. These are also Pull in (and still too short for my compomotive ML's. The problem I now have is that my hubs have worn slightly bigger than the splines on the studs. one set have already been welded to the Hubs and I need to grind the welds off to replace with the longer ones.
I here the meeting tonight will be quite lively?? Do you accept Audi's on the car park? my Vixens are in dock.
Anyone live near rochdale.
Neil.
I here the meeting tonight will be quite lively?? Do you accept Audi's on the car park? my Vixens are in dock.
Anyone live near rochdale.
Neil.
Apparently I have jobs to do tonight. I hopefully will get to the next one. going to tidy garage tonight and sort some jobs out on the Pink car along with my domestic chores. Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff