TR6 to Jag diff
Discussion
Been looking on Adrians site and he sells a conversion kit,but i'm just wondering if there is a better way to mount the diff ?
Open to ideas,i have a laser at work and a mate with a machine shop
So do i go for something like Johns (hope you dont mind me borrowing your pic)
or maybe something similar to Neils?
cars a 2500 m btw
Open to ideas,i have a laser at work and a mate with a machine shop
So do i go for something like Johns (hope you dont mind me borrowing your pic)
or maybe something similar to Neils?
cars a 2500 m btw
I swapped mine a long while ago and the 4HU was the way to go, plus they fitted them to versions of the M series so the bracket was TVR bespoke.
If I was doing a conversion today I'd investigate more modern alternatives to the 4HU, which may be more available, cheaper and lighter.
Haven't people done the Ford Cossie Sierra diff conversion with disc brakes, CV's etc thrown in for good measure?
If I was doing a conversion today I'd investigate more modern alternatives to the 4HU, which may be more available, cheaper and lighter.
Haven't people done the Ford Cossie Sierra diff conversion with disc brakes, CV's etc thrown in for good measure?
My view on this is that in my car..Originally designed with a tidgy little spitfire diff and then retro fitted with Jag diff was always a compromise regards fitting it into the narrow gap between the chassis rails and anything was an improvement on the original batswing.
An M Chassis is a totally different ball game in that the Jag diff was always designed to be in there..It was designed by Mike Bigland and its mounting points I dare say are correctly stress calculated and triangulated with full regard to the chassis members...I would keep it all entirely original !! If you are going to put silly horsepower through it then by all means use thicker plate and gussets but any more than that..I wouldn't bother
N.
An M Chassis is a totally different ball game in that the Jag diff was always designed to be in there..It was designed by Mike Bigland and its mounting points I dare say are correctly stress calculated and triangulated with full regard to the chassis members...I would keep it all entirely original !! If you are going to put silly horsepower through it then by all means use thicker plate and gussets but any more than that..I wouldn't bother
N.
A cossy diff is a nice install and good for lots of power, also a lot lighter...as fotr 500hp, My view is that a cossy diff good up to approx 350 - 400 hp, beyond that I doubt it would stand up to the torque loads imposed on it..it is a much better option for a light weight car rhough running a cooking 4 cylinder set up...
Like this..
Like this..
GAjon said:
Its pretty solid mounted, if I was beefing up anything it would be the bracings shown in the photo.
With 500 horses I think you may need all the weight you can get over the back.
:
I think Adrian said something along the same lines when i talked to him last year,i'm sure he will be along soon to offer advise.With 500 horses I think you may need all the weight you can get over the back.
:heightswitch said:
A cossy diff is a nice install and good for lots of power, also a lot lighter...as fotr 500hp, My view is that a cossy diff good up to approx 350 - 400 hp, beyond that I doubt it would stand up to the torque loads imposed on it..it is a much better option for a light weight car rhough running a cooking 4 cylinder set up...
Like this..
like your double decker garage Like this..
Very interesting thread to me this, annihilated two sets of rear bushes... The last set also when with the cradle from drivers mounting plate....
Replaced with thicker metal and gussetted as shown by Adrian. I also had some 90' angles which i welded in too and reinforced.
Also I was given a missing thrust washer and made one for the other side.
So far I've also been more mature, setting off gentle and giving some throttle once rolling. Although so far, overtime i get home i always feel and check the bushes and so far are ok still.
The first picture does look well. I was lookin at replacing my cradle with a new one on the original dimensions but thicker box section and more strength... Admittedly i never thought of bolting the diff to the lower chassis rails... That would be a stronger idea
Replaced with thicker metal and gussetted as shown by Adrian. I also had some 90' angles which i welded in too and reinforced.
Also I was given a missing thrust washer and made one for the other side.
So far I've also been more mature, setting off gentle and giving some throttle once rolling. Although so far, overtime i get home i always feel and check the bushes and so far are ok still.
The first picture does look well. I was lookin at replacing my cradle with a new one on the original dimensions but thicker box section and more strength... Admittedly i never thought of bolting the diff to the lower chassis rails... That would be a stronger idea
heightswitch said:
An M Chassis is a totally different ball game in that the Jag diff was always designed to be in there..It was designed by Mike Bigland and its mounting points I dare say are correctly stress calculated and triangulated with full regard to the chassis members...<snip>
I had to get a new chassis for my Vixen, and DG offered to build it with the extra tubes so that it would fit the various M series carriers. It's very neat, and only needs the top bracing changed around a little to get the tubes in....Just a thought if you are modding the chassis anyway...
whitewolf said:
I have the history of my taimar and it originally came with the Jag diff. But was changed for the sailsbury after 'excessive vibration'...
The Jag diff is the salsbury?? Did you mean came with the TR6 diff...quite a few 3000M's still had the TR6 Diff as original fitment..probably during a spares run out and the need to use whatever was available off the shelf..N.
heightswitch said:
whitewolf said:
I have the history of my taimar and it originally came with the Jag diff. But was changed for the sailsbury after 'excessive vibration'...
The Jag diff is the salsbury?? Did you mean came with the TR6 diff...quite a few 3000M's still had the TR6 Diff as original fitment..probably during a spares run out and the need to use whatever was available off the shelf..N.
I went through this process and after discussing with a motorsport design chap concluded the 7" and 7.5" Ford diffs of the type Neil advocates give all the clues you need as to the correct placing of pickups for resisting the two principle torques. The diff trys to rotate counter to the crankshaft and counter to the road wheels. Ford use wide spaced case fixings for the crank torque and a small tab high up on the rear case cover for a strap in tension to resist the tendency for the diff nose to rise.
Colin.
Colin.
GAjon said:
Don't know if these are of any use to you.
If you have the diff and the chassis' you have most of the key dimensions.
The sketch is circa 1982, before I had CAD.
John.
Thats great John,they match the drawings in the link i put up.If you have the diff and the chassis' you have most of the key dimensions.
The sketch is circa 1982, before I had CAD.
John.
I lasered the parts out last year,even made a jig to weld it all together.
I will finish Nelly's fuel tank this week then get on with my car
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