7/16" wheel studs
Discussion
Would anyone know if the readily available Ford imperial studs fit the TR6 hubs or where I can buy some longer Triumph studs?
Looking on Triumph specialists websites the fronts look fairly normal but rears have a taper? and last question, will the rears come out without dissembling hub and bearings (looks tight and even tighter getting longer ones in
)?
Looking on Triumph specialists websites the fronts look fairly normal but rears have a taper? and last question, will the rears come out without dissembling hub and bearings (looks tight and even tighter getting longer ones in
)? No,treated myself to these but got a little clearance issue at the front. Best I could get was 0ET but need something around -5ET so going to have to use some spacers. standard studs could be long enough but I'd rather be sure (and have a bit "in hand") in case I choose to go more than 5mm.
You can get replacement longer 7/16 wheelstuds (variety of lengths) from Merlin Motorsport. you can get them off e-bay but whilst some may be good, some may be of suspect quality!
You can also switch to ford M12 studs with a fatter shank if required but these will require slight hub mods and a snot of weld is also a good idea where they pull into the hubs at the rear face in the event that your drilling isn't as accurate as it should be.
There are 2 types of ford stud available, fat spline and long spline, so if switching be careful to order the correct ones and also the correct pitch since 2 metric pitches are also available
Regards fitting, They generally go in, sometimes on the rear you have to grind a small relief on the flat of the hexagonal hub face to allow the shank to straighten up, front its a simple matter of whipping it off the car to fit if required but the front hub is relieved.
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/WHEEL-STUDS-&...
N.
You can also switch to ford M12 studs with a fatter shank if required but these will require slight hub mods and a snot of weld is also a good idea where they pull into the hubs at the rear face in the event that your drilling isn't as accurate as it should be.
There are 2 types of ford stud available, fat spline and long spline, so if switching be careful to order the correct ones and also the correct pitch since 2 metric pitches are also available
Regards fitting, They generally go in, sometimes on the rear you have to grind a small relief on the flat of the hexagonal hub face to allow the shank to straighten up, front its a simple matter of whipping it off the car to fit if required but the front hub is relieved.
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/WHEEL-STUDS-&...
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Saturday 10th December 08:01
Edited by heightswitch on Saturday 10th December 08:03
Edited by heightswitch on Saturday 10th December 08:12
Thanks for the compliment and the advice.
Think I'll stick with the unf and not go metric. I see Merlin don't mention any car makes so I guess a stud is a stud and "everyone" uses the same spline size ?
Shame Triumph pcd is different to what Ford use, would have been nice to try the Revolutions on the S and the Minilite look-a-likes on the Taimar.
Think I'll stick with the unf and not go metric. I see Merlin don't mention any car makes so I guess a stud is a stud and "everyone" uses the same spline size ?
Shame Triumph pcd is different to what Ford use, would have been nice to try the Revolutions on the S and the Minilite look-a-likes on the Taimar
.From http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Arthur, those dont look like normal wheel studs?They are just longer than typical and I might just leave them that way. 
Check with Arthur.
Best,
B
catfishdb said:
my250gt said:
catfishdb said:
Check with Arthur.
Best,
B
Slow M said:
It looks fantastic!
Best,
B.
I am now going through the same drama with my Taimar.Best,
B.
No one makes negative offset rims anymore? - I looked at the Revolution ones with +0mm but decided for the Koenig Rewind 15x7 +0.
With 205/60 r15 I need 8mm spacers (better 10mm because with 8mm the tires still touch suspension) in the front and with 215.60 I need 4 mm spacers in the rear.
Getting longer studs for front is not an issue, but getting 7/16" longer once for rear - with the tapered head - is an issue. I found only one company selling them - but they want 10BP roughly $13 for one stud!!! - Come on people - this is called stealing!
http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumphs-c56/tr2-c3...
I might end up with the 12mm from the Rover Freelander and different size lug nuts for front and rear...
Is there anyone else who has the longer 7/16" tapered head rear studs for TR6?
OKinChi
Another option is Alistair at Classic Driving Developments
http://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/
Not only does he do upgrades for the Triumph and TVR MG etc but when i needed longer studs he was able to supply when i fitted the upgraded hubs on the 3000s as i run 5mm spacers and wanted to make sure i had enough length on the studs.
Andrew
http://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/
Not only does he do upgrades for the Triumph and TVR MG etc but when i needed longer studs he was able to supply when i fitted the upgraded hubs on the 3000s as i run 5mm spacers and wanted to make sure i had enough length on the studs.
Andrew
Thank you guys foe the help.
I will contact them all. Two of the sites provide pictures, and i am afraid the studs they have are for the front.
The ones on their web sites show the flat head and not the tapered one. Damon Twereks has one tapered but it is 3/8".
I got a reply from Jigsaw, now, just making sure that the ones they have are the right ones.
The picture provided shows the right stud
Thanks again!
I will contact them all. Two of the sites provide pictures, and i am afraid the studs they have are for the front.
The ones on their web sites show the flat head and not the tapered one. Damon Twereks has one tapered but it is 3/8".
I got a reply from Jigsaw, now, just making sure that the ones they have are the right ones.
The picture provided shows the right stud
Thanks again!
Edited by okinchi on Saturday 26th August 17:24
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