Westfield track rod ends

Westfield track rod ends

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dern

Original Poster:

14,055 posts

286 months

Monday 17th May 2004
quotequote all
In an effort to get my 1989 Westfield SE ready for sale by finishing off the last little bits can someone tell me where my track rods ends come from...



I think that they are these... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=27377&item=2478930508&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW#ebayphotohosting ...that is mark 1 escort/capri, they certainly look the same but can anyone confirm this please?

I haven't changed track rods ends before and can't see how they are held in place as what I thought was the locking nut looks to be part of the track rod end on closer inspection... so how do they stay put?

Thanks,

Mark

Locoblade

7,651 posts

263 months

Monday 17th May 2004
quotequote all
As far as I know, they are generally Mk2 Escort racks with a metric thread (as opposed to Mk1's which are imperial so not interchangeable). You might need a balljoint splitter to seperate the track rod end from the upright but quite often a well aimed tap with the hammer is enough.

They stay in place because they are threaded and once they are bolted to the upright they can't undo themselves!

Chris

steve_D

13,796 posts

265 months

Monday 17th May 2004
quotequote all
dern said:
....I haven't changed track rods ends before and can't see how they are held in place as what I thought was the locking nut looks to be part of the track rod end on closer inspection... so how do they stay put?.......


The nut you see is on the shaft which is part of the rod end. What you can't see is that the shaft below the thread (inside the arm) is tapered. The more you tighten the nut the harder the tapered shaft is locked into the housing. This is why when you undo the nut the shaft will still not come out because of the locking effect of the tapered shaft and tapered housing.
You will need a ball joint splitter. It can be done without but only if you know what you are doing and just where and how to hit it.

Steve

dern

Original Poster:

14,055 posts

286 months

Monday 17th May 2004
quotequote all
steve_D said:
The nut you see is on the shaft which is part of the rod end. What you can't see is that the shaft below the thread (inside the arm) is tapered. The more you tighten the nut the harder the tapered shaft is locked into the housing. This is why when you undo the nut the shaft will still not come out because of the locking effect of the tapered shaft and tapered housing.
How you adjust the toe-in if they're tapered?

Thanks,

Mark

PS. Got a splitter and all the rest, just confused about how these things work.

PPS. Is there supposed to be a flat on the rack bit to brace against when undoing the rod end if they're tapered?

chrisx666

808 posts

268 months

Monday 17th May 2004
quotequote all
dern said:
I haven't changed track rods ends before and can't see how they are held in place as what I thought was the locking nut looks to be part of the track rod end on closer inspection... so how do they stay put?
Mark



I'm pretty sure that the nut you can see is a locknut, separate from the balljoint - it may just be a bit rusted together.
You adjust the toe-in by backing off the abovementioned locknut, and screwing the threaded rod in or out of the rod end (balljoint) - the rod is free to rotate on the inner rack joint (within the gaiter).

Measure the joint and count the number of threads showing before you remove it - this will help you put the new one in pretty much the same place.

Chris.

Edited to say that I agree with Locoblade, it's unlikely to be a pre 75' imperial rack (MK1 Escort) - looks metric to me.

>> Edited by chrisx666 on Monday 17th May 22:32

steve_D

13,796 posts

265 months

Monday 17th May 2004
quotequote all
dern said:

......How you adjust the toe-in if they're tapered? .......


The toe-in is adjusted as stated above. The shaft from the rack is turned in the balljoint once the locknut has been released. These are the parts to the left of your photo. When replacing the rod end undo the locknut then screw it back so it just touches again then you can remove the end and screw the new one up until it touches the nut.

The tapered part I was refering to is where the balljoint fixes to the arm coming from the hub carrier.
See here for a pic that may help.

Steve

dern

Original Poster:

14,055 posts

286 months

Tuesday 18th May 2004
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steve_D said:
The tapered part I was refering to is where the balljoint fixes to the arm coming from the hub carrier.
Ah, gotcha, my misunderstanding.

Thanks for all the advice, I'll get myself down the motorfactors.

Regards,

Mark

Justin S

3,657 posts

268 months

Tuesday 18th May 2004
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stick a bit of insulation tape on the steering rod,so as a better gauge to getting the steering in line.

dern

Original Poster:

14,055 posts

286 months

Saturday 29th May 2004
quotequote all
Sorted this today, thanks for all your help.

They were lock nuts after all, someone had simply painted over them which made it look like one piece.

Cheers,

Mark

PS. They were metric... 6 quid each.

>> Edited by dern on Saturday 29th May 18:25