Securing the Floorpan
Discussion
What method is best to fit the floorpan?
I believe I have a number of options
1. Rivnut
2. Pop rivet
3. Self tapper
4. Panel bond
Which ever I decide, I am going to use panel bond. This is firstly to create a watertight seal between chassis and floorpan and secondly for strength.
So I suppose the question is more to do with whether I need anything else and if so what?
I was happy to use widely spaced self tappers initially, until I saw a picture where rivets where used. I do see a problem with rivets, which is the need to seal the holes after.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
Merry Christmas
and Happy New Year 
I believe I have a number of options
1. Rivnut
2. Pop rivet
3. Self tapper
4. Panel bond
Which ever I decide, I am going to use panel bond. This is firstly to create a watertight seal between chassis and floorpan and secondly for strength.
So I suppose the question is more to do with whether I need anything else and if so what?
I was happy to use widely spaced self tappers initially, until I saw a picture where rivets where used. I do see a problem with rivets, which is the need to seal the holes after.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
Merry Christmas
and Happy New Year Hi Mark,
Think pop-rivets is probably your best bet as you're not likely to be wanting to take the panels off again.
It'll give you a true racer style job that should match the 5exi's image. It'll also give you a smoother floor than you'd get with rivnuts and be a hell of a lot less work than either rivnuts or self tappers.
Using the panel bond as well as the rivets would of course give you both a stronger job and a seal.
Not entirely sure what you mean about needing to seal the holes if using rivets though. If you mean the hole that the steel shear pin goes through, in my experience you're nearly always left with a bit of the pin in there filling the hole anyway.
Have fun, and look forward to seeing your car at Pistonfest.
Think pop-rivets is probably your best bet as you're not likely to be wanting to take the panels off again.
It'll give you a true racer style job that should match the 5exi's image. It'll also give you a smoother floor than you'd get with rivnuts and be a hell of a lot less work than either rivnuts or self tappers.
Using the panel bond as well as the rivets would of course give you both a stronger job and a seal.
Not entirely sure what you mean about needing to seal the holes if using rivets though. If you mean the hole that the steel shear pin goes through, in my experience you're nearly always left with a bit of the pin in there filling the hole anyway.
Have fun, and look forward to seeing your car at Pistonfest.
I have heard of rivets working free over time. If possible I'd weld an 18 gauge steel floor in place by stitch welding at the corners and then between the first stitches. Keep adding stitches around the floor utill the job is done. Don't weld all the way round in one go as this builds up stress and distortion.
Glad this came back to the top.
cymtriks, I don't fancy welding it. 1. I can't weld and 2. Galvanised floor to an already powdercoated chassis seems too much work.
Although I do agree welding is the strongest method.
Rivets
3mm or 4mm?
how far apart?
ali or stainless?
domed or countersunk?
Fair bit of choice isn't there.
Comments please.
Can anyone get a better price than £5/50 for 3mm stainless rivets?
cymtriks, I don't fancy welding it. 1. I can't weld and 2. Galvanised floor to an already powdercoated chassis seems too much work.
Although I do agree welding is the strongest method.
Rivets
3mm or 4mm?
how far apart?
ali or stainless?
domed or countersunk?
Fair bit of choice isn't there.
Comments please.
Can anyone get a better price than £5/50 for 3mm stainless rivets?
Ex-Biker said:3mm
3mm or 4mm?
Ex-Biker said:Mine are around 30mm on the Ult, but on some panels a bit closer to get all the gaps the same
how far apart?
Ex-Biker said:Never seen stainless rivets! Everyone uses ali although technically I suppose there's perhaps a risk of an electrolytic reaction between the steel and the ali.
ali or stainless?
Ex-Biker said:Domed
domed or countersunk?
Ex-Biker said:ISTR they were around £15/1000 in my local fastener place.
Can anyone get a better price than £5/50 for 3mm stainless rivets?
I'll add my voice to the 'go get an air rivetter' movement too! If you don't want to splash out you're welcome to borrow mine.
I used 4mm rivets and put them roughly every 25mm.
As Bob said, local fastner shop will give you a box of 1000/5000 for very little money. If not, Screwfix sell them in quantity, £30 for 5000.
www.screwfix.co.uk
As Bob said, local fastner shop will give you a box of 1000/5000 for very little money. If not, Screwfix sell them in quantity, £30 for 5000.
www.screwfix.co.uk
Either 3mm or 4mm should be OK, especially at 25mm/30mm spacings.
Agree with BobM that domed are best bet, if only because it'll save you having to countersink all those holes!
Regarding rivets coming loose, think this probably refers to old racing cars with aluminium monocoque chassis. The rivets can come loose on these because they're effectively taking all the chassis stresses. In your case the steel spaceframe will be taking the bulk of those so the rivets will have a much easier life.
Agree with BobM that domed are best bet, if only because it'll save you having to countersink all those holes!
Regarding rivets coming loose, think this probably refers to old racing cars with aluminium monocoque chassis. The rivets can come loose on these because they're effectively taking all the chassis stresses. In your case the steel spaceframe will be taking the bulk of those so the rivets will have a much easier life.
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