Any recommendations for kit car builders?
Discussion
I'm building a Mini Marcos Mk6 at the moment. I presented the car for IVA last October - and failed, but came away with a list of things to address.
The only jobs (I think) are left are a couple of biggies (for me at least).
I've rebuilt the A+ Series engine and gearbox but it fails the emissions test. I think I've not gasped the piston rings properly. Either that or haven't assembled the rings correctly. Also the master cylinder has failed, not providing any pressure to the pedal.
Enthusiasm is a bit low at the minute, along with an injured shoulder which is preventing me from doing much so I'm considering having someone complete the car and put it through the IVA again.
But it's not like I've ever had to research this before so don't know where to start looking. Therefore I thought I'd ask to see if any of you knowledgeable people would have any recommendations for this.
I'm based in the North East but I'm prepared to listen to people who have used someone's services to get their kit's completed if further afield.
(Google suggests a couple of businesses based near Coventry)
So - any help gratefully received
Thanks,
The only jobs (I think) are left are a couple of biggies (for me at least).
I've rebuilt the A+ Series engine and gearbox but it fails the emissions test. I think I've not gasped the piston rings properly. Either that or haven't assembled the rings correctly. Also the master cylinder has failed, not providing any pressure to the pedal.
Enthusiasm is a bit low at the minute, along with an injured shoulder which is preventing me from doing much so I'm considering having someone complete the car and put it through the IVA again.
But it's not like I've ever had to research this before so don't know where to start looking. Therefore I thought I'd ask to see if any of you knowledgeable people would have any recommendations for this.
I'm based in the North East but I'm prepared to listen to people who have used someone's services to get their kit's completed if further afield.
(Google suggests a couple of businesses based near Coventry)
So - any help gratefully received
Thanks,
Ambleton, its a 96-99 multi point injection engine. I owned an MPI mini for 15 years and built the Marcos up basing it on that car.
The engine runs alright but smells very rich, as well as blowing out a bit of smoke when it's revved, so its not a surprise that it fails the emissions.
I've only built one other engine (for the mini) which went well, but that build used pistons with pre-gapped rings. The Marcos engine used different pistons (to create a 1342cc engine) and required the rings to be gapped. I guess I probably didn't get it quite right.
The plugs are very black - not wet, but very sooted up. I should try a hotter running plug first before pulling the engine?
The engine runs alright but smells very rich, as well as blowing out a bit of smoke when it's revved, so its not a surprise that it fails the emissions.
I've only built one other engine (for the mini) which went well, but that build used pistons with pre-gapped rings. The Marcos engine used different pistons (to create a 1342cc engine) and required the rings to be gapped. I guess I probably didn't get it quite right.
The plugs are very black - not wet, but very sooted up. I should try a hotter running plug first before pulling the engine?
Could the seals for the valve guides be passing oil? as for the servo, is this a standard mini part and still available? If it's small and not available any more I can suggest I used a LR Defender one to replace a Ford Escort one, as the LR one is small diameter, so may suit?
Good luck - it sounds a good project
Good luck - it sounds a good project
anno - I've had a diagnosis plugged in (a proper Rover MEMS unit at that). It did find the temp sender connector wasn't fitting correctly. I've spliced in a replacement sensor connector which does seem to make a difference in that the fan doesn't cut in as it used to. But I put in a new set of plugs and although only run for ten minutes or (until the engine was up to temperature), once they'd cooled down I removed them and they were all starting to show signs of fouling.
fastpedller - When I built up the head I fitted new oil seals on both inlet and exhaust valve stems (some people advocate only fitting these to one - can't remember if its the inlets or exhausts).
Also you can I think get most parts for the mini brake servo's through the likes of Mini Spares & Minisport etc.
I guess I'll just need to stop being lazy and crack on with it (both the engine and the brake problem).
fastpedller - When I built up the head I fitted new oil seals on both inlet and exhaust valve stems (some people advocate only fitting these to one - can't remember if its the inlets or exhausts).
Also you can I think get most parts for the mini brake servo's through the likes of Mini Spares & Minisport etc.
I guess I'll just need to stop being lazy and crack on with it (both the engine and the brake problem).
Edited by Cooper1999 on Monday 21st October 19:50
Cooper1999 said:
anno - I've had a diagnosis plugged in (a proper Rover MEMS unit at that). It did find the temp sender connector wasn't fitting correctly. I've spliced in a replacement sensor connector which does seem to make a difference in that the fan doesn't cut in as it used to. But I put in a new set of plugs and although only run for ten minutes or (until the engine was up to temperature), once they'd cooled down I removed them and they were all starting to show signs of fouling.
...
I guess I'll just need to stop being lazy and crack on with it (both the engine and the brake problem).
10mins at idle or running with torque on the engine?...
I guess I'll just need to stop being lazy and crack on with it (both the engine and the brake problem).
Edited by Cooper1999 on Monday 21st October 19:50
Cooper1999 said:
anno - I've had a diagnosis plugged in (a proper Rover MEMS unit at that). It did find the temp sender connector wasn't fitting correctly. I've spliced in a replacement sensor connector which does seem to make a difference in that the fan doesn't cut in as it used to. But I put in a new set of plugs and although only run for ten minutes or (until the engine was up to temperature), once they'd cooled down I removed them and they were all starting to show signs of fouling.
fastpedller - When I built up the head I fitted new oil seals on both inlet and exhaust valve stems (some people advocate only fitting these to one - can't remember if its the inlets or exhausts).
Also you can I think get most parts for the mini brake servo's through the likes of Mini Spares & Minisport etc.
I guess I'll just need to stop being lazy and crack on with it (both the engine and the brake problem).
Oops! my error or course, as plugs would be wet/oily black if the oil seals were leaking. it certainly seems like a mixture issue.fastpedller - When I built up the head I fitted new oil seals on both inlet and exhaust valve stems (some people advocate only fitting these to one - can't remember if its the inlets or exhausts).
Also you can I think get most parts for the mini brake servo's through the likes of Mini Spares & Minisport etc.
I guess I'll just need to stop being lazy and crack on with it (both the engine and the brake problem).
Edited by Cooper1999 on Monday 21st October 19:50
anno - Unfortunately I can't put the car under load (after rebuilding the engine) due to it not yet being IVA'd, otherwise I'd run it for 500 miles or so to ensure it was run in.
Unfortunately I discovered that the dash pod isn't compatible with the injection engine and, when meant to bed the cam in at around 2500rpm, with the rev counter sat at 2500rpm the engine was probably spinning at nearer 5k. (It really didn't sound like it though) My fear was/is that I might have glazed the bores.
But no - I can only let the car idle/rev statically, not drive under load.
I've fitted a Specialist Components stainless LCB manifold, fitted with a new, pattern part lambda sensor. This could of cause be at fault of course, but the code reader (which I don't have easy access to) didn't through this up (which again could cause the mixture issue Fastpedller).
I've ordered some different plugs (NGK BP4ES from memory, to replace the BPR 5 or 6 ES jobbies). I'll try them before disconnecting and pulling the engine (when my shoulder lets me). I can drain the brake fluid and look at the master cylinder this weekend perhaps.
Unfortunately I discovered that the dash pod isn't compatible with the injection engine and, when meant to bed the cam in at around 2500rpm, with the rev counter sat at 2500rpm the engine was probably spinning at nearer 5k. (It really didn't sound like it though) My fear was/is that I might have glazed the bores.
But no - I can only let the car idle/rev statically, not drive under load.
I've fitted a Specialist Components stainless LCB manifold, fitted with a new, pattern part lambda sensor. This could of cause be at fault of course, but the code reader (which I don't have easy access to) didn't through this up (which again could cause the mixture issue Fastpedller).
I've ordered some different plugs (NGK BP4ES from memory, to replace the BPR 5 or 6 ES jobbies). I'll try them before disconnecting and pulling the engine (when my shoulder lets me). I can drain the brake fluid and look at the master cylinder this weekend perhaps.
Edited by Cooper1999 on Tuesday 22 October 18:57
Edited by Cooper1999 on Tuesday 22 October 18:58
Cooper1999 said:
anno - Unfortunately I can't put the car under load (after rebuilding the engine) due to it not yet being IVA'd, otherwise I'd run it for 500 miles or so to ensure it was run in.
Unfortunately I discovered that the dash pod isn't compatible with the injection engine and, when meant to bed the cam in at around 2500rpm, with the rev counter sat at 2500rpm the engine was probably spinning at nearer 5k. (It really didn't sound like it though) My fear was/is that I might have glazed the bores.
But no - I can only let the car idle/rev statically, not drive under load.
I've fitted a Specialist Components stainless LCB manifold, fitted with a new, pattern part lambda sensor. This could of cause be at fault of course, but the code reader (which I don't have easy access to) didn't through this up (which again could cause the mixture issue Fastpedller).
I've ordered some different plugs (NGK BP4ES from memory, to replace the BPR 5 or 6 ES jobbies). I'll try them before disconnecting and pulling the engine (when my shoulder lets me). I can drain the brake fluid and look at the master cylinder this weekend perhaps.
Could be either the sensor, or the ECU needs remapping for it's new position in the Manifold.Unfortunately I discovered that the dash pod isn't compatible with the injection engine and, when meant to bed the cam in at around 2500rpm, with the rev counter sat at 2500rpm the engine was probably spinning at nearer 5k. (It really didn't sound like it though) My fear was/is that I might have glazed the bores.
But no - I can only let the car idle/rev statically, not drive under load.
I've fitted a Specialist Components stainless LCB manifold, fitted with a new, pattern part lambda sensor. This could of cause be at fault of course, but the code reader (which I don't have easy access to) didn't through this up (which again could cause the mixture issue Fastpedller).
I've ordered some different plugs (NGK BP4ES from memory, to replace the BPR 5 or 6 ES jobbies). I'll try them before disconnecting and pulling the engine (when my shoulder lets me). I can drain the brake fluid and look at the master cylinder this weekend perhaps.
Edited by Cooper1999 on Tuesday 22 October 18:57
Edited by Cooper1999 on Tuesday 22 October 18:58
anno, so I can't get the ecu remapped (MEMS are renowned for being awkward like that). Good point about the position of the lamba - it's at the base of the manifold, where the outer branches join the inner branch. Again, not a lot I can do about that. But perhaps try a replacement lambda before the extreme measure of removing the engine.
I did have a problem sealing the inlet manifold to the head - the flanges of the inlet manifold are a different thickness to the exhaust manifold flanges. If this let extra air in the ecu could be trying to compensate by providing extra fuel (but that doesn't make sense - if there's extra air, the extra fuel would be used).
I've received a new master cylinder, and drained the old one. Next weekend I'll swap the master cylinders over and try and bleed the brakes. Once my shoulders a bit stronger I'll have another bash at the engine before farming this out to a specialist.
Thanks, all.
I did have a problem sealing the inlet manifold to the head - the flanges of the inlet manifold are a different thickness to the exhaust manifold flanges. If this let extra air in the ecu could be trying to compensate by providing extra fuel (but that doesn't make sense - if there's extra air, the extra fuel would be used).
I've received a new master cylinder, and drained the old one. Next weekend I'll swap the master cylinders over and try and bleed the brakes. Once my shoulders a bit stronger I'll have another bash at the engine before farming this out to a specialist.
Thanks, all.
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