Economic RWD engine swap
Discussion
I know it almost sounds like an oxymoron for a kit car, but I’m looking at alternatives to my current NB MX5 1.8L engine fitted in my MGB GT.
It has done great over the years but it has now unfortunately developed an oil leak from the bottom seam and rocker cover + the clutch needs changing. I have therefore been considering an engine swap as a nice summer project.
I’m looking for a petrol engine that is economical and offers a bit more mpg than the NB. Strangely enough I drive the car around 10k miles a year, and will more than likely continue for the next few years. I’ve been looking at the NC MX5 engines as that would be an easy swap. But does it really behave any better mpg wise? Does anyone have any other suggestions for other engines that can be used as RWD + economic?
Thought about the zetec and Duratec? Are they any better?
P.S. yes I know I should just get a cheap electric or hybrid or diesel daily, but I don’t really want that as I enjoy driving the MG too much and just spent the last 4 years restoring it from ground up
Thanks!
It has done great over the years but it has now unfortunately developed an oil leak from the bottom seam and rocker cover + the clutch needs changing. I have therefore been considering an engine swap as a nice summer project.
I’m looking for a petrol engine that is economical and offers a bit more mpg than the NB. Strangely enough I drive the car around 10k miles a year, and will more than likely continue for the next few years. I’ve been looking at the NC MX5 engines as that would be an easy swap. But does it really behave any better mpg wise? Does anyone have any other suggestions for other engines that can be used as RWD + economic?
Thought about the zetec and Duratec? Are they any better?
P.S. yes I know I should just get a cheap electric or hybrid or diesel daily, but I don’t really want that as I enjoy driving the MG too much and just spent the last 4 years restoring it from ground up
Thanks!
I don't know, because I haven't got the graphs of their specific fuel consumptions. It's no good trying to compare their consumption in donor cars, 'cos there are too many variables that would affect the outcome.
The Duratec/MZR is the most modern of the units, so it's likely to be the most fuel efficient, but that's about all you can say.
ETA: If you're fitting it to an MGB with the MG's standard rear axle (3.9:1?), by far the biggest factor on fuel consumption will be gearing.
The Duratec/MZR is the most modern of the units, so it's likely to be the most fuel efficient, but that's about all you can say.
ETA: If you're fitting it to an MGB with the MG's standard rear axle (3.9:1?), by far the biggest factor on fuel consumption will be gearing.
Edited by Equus on Monday 18th June 15:11
Very good point regarding the axle, and I am currently considering swapping the rear axle to a different ratio - perhaps 3.3:1 from the Sierra/Granada diffs.
About the Duratec/MZR good suggestions, and I’d assume the Mazda option may be easier to do a direct swap as the prop should be the same and mounting points fairly similar.
Not thought about the Toyota engine but will investigate that.
Mainly looking for reliability and economy as I drive the car on a daily basis. Even thought about the ecoboost engines, but there doesn’t seem to be many kits/ECUs available for them yet which would make the whole thing very expensive
About the Duratec/MZR good suggestions, and I’d assume the Mazda option may be easier to do a direct swap as the prop should be the same and mounting points fairly similar.
Not thought about the Toyota engine but will investigate that.
Mainly looking for reliability and economy as I drive the car on a daily basis. Even thought about the ecoboost engines, but there doesn’t seem to be many kits/ECUs available for them yet which would make the whole thing very expensive
The MR2 / celica engine 3s-GE or 3S-GTE. Depending on power and space you have (GTE is turbo). I think the non turbo came in varying powers from about 140bhp - 200bhp
In terms of electrics. I found the engine loom / rear loom to its fusebox had everything required past that point and just ignition, battery and alternator wires was required to get it running (5 in total).
In terms of electrics. I found the engine loom / rear loom to its fusebox had everything required past that point and just ignition, battery and alternator wires was required to get it running (5 in total).
Well they vary, but in principle the ECU takes inputs from various sensors (airflow/pressure, crank position, cam position, water temperature) and has outputs to the injectors and spark plugs. Sometimes a couple of ancilliaries like the fan as well. Not really a lot more to it than that for aftermarket stuff - though even that quickly mounts up to being a lot of wires! Emerald's website has the manuals for download which give the full details, I can't remember if OMEX do the same.
Equus said:
I don't know, because I haven't got the graphs of their specific fuel consumptions. It's no good trying to compare their consumption in donor cars, 'cos there are too many variables that would affect the outcome.
The Duratec/MZR is the most modern of the units, so it's likely to be the most fuel efficient, but that's about all you can say.
ETA: If you're fitting it to an MGB with the MG's standard rear axle (3.9:1?), by far the biggest factor on fuel consumption will be gearing.
Wont a Duratech need standalone management ?The Duratec/MZR is the most modern of the units, so it's likely to be the most fuel efficient, but that's about all you can say.
ETA: If you're fitting it to an MGB with the MG's standard rear axle (3.9:1?), by far the biggest factor on fuel consumption will be gearing.
Edited by Equus on Monday 18th June 15:11
Guessing current setup is std Mazda ?
There are so many cool after market toys you can do with the NB engine (ITB's, turbo etc) but if your heart isn't in it then no point.
I drove an S2000 locost a mate built and that was rather fun. Mine has a 4agze and is much more fun than my old 4age. It had no torque so pulling out to overtake in a headwind was a bit of a pain on the highway.
I drove an S2000 locost a mate built and that was rather fun. Mine has a 4agze and is much more fun than my old 4age. It had no torque so pulling out to overtake in a headwind was a bit of a pain on the highway.
dmulally said:
There are so many cool after market toys you can do with the NB engine (ITB's, turbo etc) ...
Ditto the Duratec, of course: 300+ bhp superhcarged is straighforward, and Caterhams use it in nat. asp. form up to 260bhp.Not likely to improve your fuel consumption much, though.
If you are doing this from a cost perspective will an engine swap really add up. By the time you consider the cost to change I would doubt a minor change in MPG would make up for it. For example cost up a rear wheel drive sump for a Zetec.
These engines are so cheap they are nearly a consumable item. Additionally they seem to like high revs too. I have driven several Zetec kit cars and they all seem to just give up above 5.5k rpm which spoils things when trying to have a bit of fun.
These engines are so cheap they are nearly a consumable item. Additionally they seem to like high revs too. I have driven several Zetec kit cars and they all seem to just give up above 5.5k rpm which spoils things when trying to have a bit of fun.
Replacing the NB engine with something of similar power and displacement isn't going to buy you anything significant in terms of fuel economy, assuming that you don't want anything new and complex (e.g. direct injection). Definitely not a good justification for the time and expense required to fit a completely different engine.
killerferret666 said:
The MR2 / celica engine 3s-GE or 3S-GTE. Depending on power and space you have (GTE is turbo). I think the non turbo came in varying powers from about 140bhp - 200bhp
In terms of electrics. I found the engine loom / rear loom to its fusebox had everything required past that point and just ignition, battery and alternator wires was required to get it running (5 in total).
Hi killerferret! I'm curious as to why you have suggested the 3SGE for a RWD conversion. Have you done one? I've done this install in my car, initially with a modified T50 box and latterly with a modded IS200 AJ6 6 speed. In terms of electrics. I found the engine loom / rear loom to its fusebox had everything required past that point and just ignition, battery and alternator wires was required to get it running (5 in total).
Getting it under an MX5 bonnet would need ITBs and wouldn't achieve any MPG benefit in any case.
I'm presently building a new engine for my car. Higher comp, better cams, etc. Its not the easiest engine to convert to RWD but I enjoy a challenge.
There is, of course, the RWD 3SGE VVTi engine from the Altezza which comes with a 6 speed box but it is too tall for my car and too tall for an MX5 too, I suspect.
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