Fisher Fury suspension creak

[ChimaeraKev]

Evening one and all,

So I've had the car out the past few days to work and back (20 mile round trip) and I've noticed that the front suspension makes a creaking noise. It's not a knock or bang but more a creak. It's more noticeable when the car is at a standstill and it does it when I rock the car from side to side and also when turning the wheel.

I can take a video and upload it to YouTube if that makes it any easier?

I have sent a couple of feelers out to local garages as I wanted to get the general suspension geometry checked over anyway but wanted to see if I could get a head start on this one!

Cheers!
Kev

[Equus]

Polybushes would be first suspect - it's not unusual for them to creak a bit. Try silicone lubricant spray.

[anonymous-user]

If it's like my Fury and it has the inboard dampers with the rocker arms, check the bushes in those and make sure they're not seized up etc...
Easiest way to tell get someone else to move the steering while you get under the clamshell and listen to various parts.

[Huff]

JimSuperSix said:

If it's like my Fury and it has the inboard dampers with the rocker arms, check the bushes in those and make sure they're not seized up etc...
Easiest way to tell get someone else to move the steering while you get under the clamshell and listen to various parts.

+1 to that; remove wheel, jack the car to totally unload the suspension, pull the long bolt and grease the bushes.

Otherwise Fury & Pheonix are generally built with metlastic bushes (bonded rubber between two concentric steel shells) and these are silent - unless one is giving up, and so a wishbone is actually atrts rubbing against a mount in a fore/aft sense. Use a bright light and investigate carefully.


Fortunately it's all simple stuff, and access is brilliant!

[ChimaeraKev]

Thanks for the tips all, I love these forums!

If I do find it is one of the bushes, will I need to replace just that 1 or should I replace the opposing bush as well? Or should I replace them all?
Obviously next question would be which bushes to get and from where!

Cheers,
Kev

[pigeondave]

If one needs doing replace them all.

You can get them from Steve @ Fury Sports Cars
or you can google metalistic brushes.

Now comes the opening of the can of worms.....

Typically Furys were built with imperial bushes and 12mm holes. This (I've read on fourms) was to allow for some tolerance.

The way this worked was that you installed everything finger tight and dropped the car back on the ground and only then tightened the bolts to clamp the metal centre of the brush.

What many have done is re-drilled / reamed the 12mm holes out to 1/2" and installed 1/2" bolts.

When Chris was at BGH and they had the Fury he also said that 1/2" brushes had a tighter fit with 1/2" bolts than 12mm bushes and 12mm bolts. He then got out one of each and showed me.

The important thing is to always tighten the bolts when the bushes are in their correct position ie wheels on ground, as they do offer a little resistance.
And if you dont you'll probably tear them when the suspension goes into bump.

The squeak is probably from the top rocker pivot bolt as others have said. Ive got a grease nipple in my ones so that i can pump them with grease.

Remember the bushes and top rocker pivot on the metal tube in the middle and not the bolt, the bolt is a clamp bolt to pinch the tube between the two steel plates.

Hope this helps.

[Fury1630]

Agree with all that, but Fisher (& presumably Steve as FSC) supplied a needle roller bearing kit as an option, I have them & have had no problems in 30,000 miles. Much easier to fit too, no messing about with sandpaper wrapped round a bolt.

[pigeondave]

Fury1630 said:

Agree with all that, but Fisher (& presumably Steve as FSC) supplied a needle roller bearing kit as an option, I have them & have had no problems in 30,000 miles. Much easier to fit too, no messing about with sandpaper wrapped round a bolt.

I had the needle roller bearing solution and didn't like it.

You end up with the car sat on only a few (maybe 2) needles. this then causes a depression in the rod going through the bearing, which to me, can't be right.

Also with the new setting out of the tangs for the front rocker the needle roller bearing kit is too short so you can have it.

Tim Hoverd or someone similar was looking at the idea of using Igus top hat bearings this would give a smooth face to the rocker as well as a smooth support which spreads the load over a larger surface anra than just one needle (if you see what I/he means)

[Fury1630]

pigeondave said:

You end up with the car sat on only a few (maybe 2) needles. this then causes a depression in the rod going through the bearing, which to me, can't be right.

Like a wheel bearing then?

[pigeondave]

Fury1630 said:

Like a wheel bearing then?

Similar yes. But wheel bearings go round and round. The rockers stay in one place and are constantly loaded over a small area.

The pressure on the face of a wheel bearing increases to a maximum as it supports the weight and then it decrease as it rolls away.

In the top rocker the same bearing is always taking the load and is wiggled (not rotated) with the suspension movement. What ive seen happen to my one was that the steel shaft that the bearing rests on had two distinct indents where the two bearings were supporting the front of the car.

Yes it works, but (for me) its not the correct use of the item. I was saying that it would be better to spread the load over something which has a larger surface area.

Its like rod ends and how they're used. I dont want to open that can of worms. Im just saying they work even though they're used incorrectly a lot of the time.

I have front lower wishbones rod ended at the chassis end.

[Huff]

+1 to all that.

It's the same reason that needle-roller rockers for ohv engines are rubbish: needle rollers only work for full-rotation and preferably high-speed uses: they are a really poor choice for a limited range of joint movement otherwise, owing to massive local loading forces bearing in a limited arc.