Kit car brake options

Kit car brake options

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Discussion

Jon_dong

Original Poster:

5 posts

85 months

Saturday 21st October 2017
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Hi all,

I picked up my 7 type kit car last week and finally got a go in it. I'm pretty impressed apart from the brakes could be a lot better.

Can anyone suggest any reasonably priced brake sets/kits worth installing to solve the problem?

Any help much appreciated.

Pat

Equus

16,980 posts

108 months

Saturday 21st October 2017
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It might help if you told us which Seven kit it is. Most are either Cortina or Sierra based, but Mk. II Escort, Triumph, Volkswagen Golf, Vauxhall Chevette, etc. are also possibilities.

Are you sure it's not just 'cos you're used to servoed brakes on modern cars, though? It's unusual for the brakes on a Seven to be inadequate for road use, given that the cars are so light, but if you're used to servo brakes, the pedal effort will seem high, and they may feel a little 'dead'.

It's also possible that you have competition pads fitted, which need a bit of heat in them before they start to work (in which case, just swapping them for road pads might help, for road use).

ugg10

681 posts

224 months

Saturday 21st October 2017
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Most sevens are fine with front discs around 240-260mm either single or four pot and drums on the rear are pretty ok, does not need rear discs but some have them fitted.

When you have the car put up on here what brakes it has and what master cylinder(s) it has and I am sure people can help.

dhutch

15,285 posts

204 months

Sunday 22nd October 2017
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Agreed. The Westfield has stock M16 calipers up front, bar stainless pistons, drums on the rear, and while the pedal feel is different it will lock all four in and weather. Second had set of m1144 pads if you have something too track based for your usage.

Daniel

Jon_dong

Original Poster:

5 posts

85 months

Sunday 22nd October 2017
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Sorry guys, it's actually a madgwick 7 style car. Think the donor car is a Sierra

downsman

1,099 posts

163 months

Monday 23rd October 2017
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Nice looking car.

I have a different Seven, but found my brakes lacked bite and didn't inspire confidence. A change of pad material made a huge difference.

If you have standard Sierra brakes, they'll be more than up to the job, just make sure you haven't got any sticking pistons or other problems. The original car was a lot heavier and had a powerful servo, so choosing some grippier pads will give more braking for a set pedal pressure. Other owners are a huge source of information, so if there is a club it's worth joining it smile

EVO575

230 posts

214 months

Monday 23rd October 2017
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I have Sierra brakes on my Tiger Avon just with decent pads.Im very happy with them,no fade and instant bite.


https://youtu.be/M6Ozpe6Bskg

Justin S

3,657 posts

268 months

Monday 23rd October 2017
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Most seven type cars need a bit of pedal pressure to compensate for the lack of brake assistance. I would give the brakes a good fluid flush, as that can make a difference. Also have a look at the front pads for glazing. If they dont get hot, over time they can need some sanding down to clean them up. All cheap and easy things to try before you start changing pads and rebuilding calipers.

dhutch

15,285 posts

204 months

Tuesday 24th October 2017
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Looks nice.

Mine failed its first MOT on the handbrake, stripping down found the slaves where shot to bits and leaking onto the pads, new slaves, fluid change, shoes where all buttons. Then I inspected the fronts and they where also pitted to hell. Worked ok so had obviously just been ignored, but having finished the job with a caliper referbishment from BigRed and said pads and it's been trouble free for years now. Just the occasional fluid change, happy days.

Daniel

Jon_dong

Original Poster:

5 posts

85 months

Tuesday 24th October 2017
quotequote all
EVO575 said:
I have Sierra brakes on my Tiger Avon just with decent pads.Im very happy with them,no fade and instant bite.


https://youtu.be/M6Ozpe6Bskg
Thanks, i'll see what I can find pads wise. Great video as well

Jon_dong

Original Poster:

5 posts

85 months

Tuesday 24th October 2017
quotequote all
Thank you for all your replies guys. I'm booked int eh garage tomorrow for a small oil leak so i'll getr them to have a look

Regards

Pat

Jon_dong

Original Poster:

5 posts

85 months

Tuesday 24th October 2017
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What are the best pads out there for these brakes?

Regards


dhutch

15,285 posts

204 months

Tuesday 24th October 2017
quotequote all
Jon_dong said:
What are the best pads out there for these brakes?
How long is string? If you're using it for road use, avoid anything to race orientated as the performance from cold will be poor which leads to more supprises then ideal.

Some people sware by ebc greenstuff, I have had no issues with the mitex 1144 pads, but slot just use brand name road pads.
Plenty of past thread on here, Locost Builders forum, etc too.

The other thing to check is your tyre pressures, they want be fairly low. Again people will give all sorts of answers, but you want to be around 18-22psi ish rather than mid 30's plus for a heavier tintop road car.

Daniel

CrutyRammers

13,735 posts

205 months

Tuesday 24th October 2017
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As per others - I've got ferrodo Ds2500 on mine, and they're great, and have never let me down on track, but they do need a bit of heat in them. On a pootle on the road they can feel a bit lacking as they don't get very warm. If you're always using it on road, you're probably as well with ordinary road pads.

Paul Drawmer

4,961 posts

274 months

Tuesday 24th October 2017
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I really think you need to do a bit of analysis on what it is about the brakes that isn't right.

Do this on a straight level road where there's no traffic and little camber.

From about 70ish brake hard to a stop a couple of times. I do mean to a stop, and try and do it twice in quick succession. This will warm up the brakes, and if they're not doing anything odd, try it again, but this time see how much effort is required to brake just less than locking up.

Do they actually work OK? ie pull up straight, let you hit them really hard? Is it just that you need to push harder than on another car? In an ideal world you should be able to brake so hard that you can hear front and back tyres complaining just before they squeal. If you hear the fronts doing all the work, braking could be improved by improving the rear brakes. If the rear brakes are doing more work than the front; get the front improved immediately, rear brake bias can be dangerous.

Changing pads at only one end can alter the brake balance and feel, with changing effects between hot and cold brakes.

If you have a car with good front / rear brake balance, and you put bigger front discs on to lower the pedal pressure, you may lower the overall braking performance as the front will be doing all the work, and the rears aren't contributing.

GinG15

501 posts

178 months

Friday 27th October 2017
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like on most kitcars i think the problem is related to the size of master & slave cylinders.

what kind of disc brakes are fitted in front?
what kind of disc brakes are fitted to rear?
what master cylinders are fitted to the bias box?(part number or internal bore size)?
is the bias bbalance setted correctly?


Madgwick cars usually have vauxhall engines...but dont know about the other components....maybe vauxhall too?
steering looks sierra-ish









Edited by GinG15 on Friday 27th October 21:28

crone

1 posts

61 months

Wednesday 23rd October 2019
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Do you still have this?
I built it,

thanks