Westfield - what to check?
Discussion
Buying a kit car is very much like buying any car. Condition is the major factor. Remember some poor idiot spent hours lovingly putting it together so don't be suprised if they are a little defensive.
Look at trye wear, oil leaks, body fit, trim etc. Check the documentation. It should not be listed as a Sierra etc on the V5.
Check cars has been taken in the build. Is it pre or post SVA? Post cars go through a fairly tough test before being registered. Pre-sva ones didn't. That is not to say a post SVA will be better.
Good luck
Paul.B
Look at trye wear, oil leaks, body fit, trim etc. Check the documentation. It should not be listed as a Sierra etc on the V5.
Check cars has been taken in the build. Is it pre or post SVA? Post cars go through a fairly tough test before being registered. Pre-sva ones didn't. That is not to say a post SVA will be better.
Good luck
Paul.B
check the chassis.Look at the front area for any rail distortion.If the chassis is epoxy coated,that will be corrosion free.Check for stars and crazing of the bodywork.This is far more expensive to repair than you think.Check generally for wear and tear.If it looks shabby on the outside,it won't be that good on the inside IYSWIM.Is it a Westfield club members car,as that can give you a better chance of getting a good car.I always looked at the visible front suspension.If the arms are rusty and the uprights and bits are in the same condition,signs of a partially neglected car.look at the steering gaitors too for being holed.As Dern says,(evening Mark) tell us about the spec.Sei or Se and engine choice and can help you further.
Hi,
Besides all the very valid comments above check for "general quality of build". The problem when buying a kitcar is that some are made very well, some are not.
I am convinced that there are cars out there that were put together by builders that were not really knowing what they were doing. If you are buying a car from the builder, try to find out how skilled he is. Look for small things: is the wiring loom tie wrapped to the chassis or are cable clips rivited to the chassis ?? Are the brake lines bended nicely and properly, or are they quickly bended approxemately along the chassis ??
Good luck, you are going to have lots of fun with a Westfield !!
Besides all the very valid comments above check for "general quality of build". The problem when buying a kitcar is that some are made very well, some are not.
I am convinced that there are cars out there that were put together by builders that were not really knowing what they were doing. If you are buying a car from the builder, try to find out how skilled he is. Look for small things: is the wiring loom tie wrapped to the chassis or are cable clips rivited to the chassis ?? Are the brake lines bended nicely and properly, or are they quickly bended approxemately along the chassis ??
Good luck, you are going to have lots of fun with a Westfield !!
The car was recently put in another thread as being for sale...
1998 SE wide - very shiney in Red, it has only done 3,700 dry miles. It comes with 12months MOT.
This is a fast road/race car, which competed sucessfully in the Scottish Sprint Championship in the 2003 season.
It has had a complete engine rebuild since and it has only had road use since I bought it. It has been a very reliable car, as I purchased it from a mate so know its history very well.
The rough spec is:
1700 X-Flow
Dry Sumped
Twin Webber 40's
Racing Clutch
RS2000 Gear box
Spax fully adjustable all round
15" TSW Blade Alloys (done 300 miles & immiculate)
Quaffe LSD
RAC Roll Bar
4 Point race Harneses
Momo Wheel
Westfield Race Seats
Priced to sell, at a very competitive £4,850.
Thanks for all comments so far, basically I have to pay good attention to the entire car including visible and hidden parts and look at general wear and tear, including fluids etc.
Did I get that right?
1998 SE wide - very shiney in Red, it has only done 3,700 dry miles. It comes with 12months MOT.
This is a fast road/race car, which competed sucessfully in the Scottish Sprint Championship in the 2003 season.
It has had a complete engine rebuild since and it has only had road use since I bought it. It has been a very reliable car, as I purchased it from a mate so know its history very well.
The rough spec is:
1700 X-Flow
Dry Sumped
Twin Webber 40's
Racing Clutch
RS2000 Gear box
Spax fully adjustable all round
15" TSW Blade Alloys (done 300 miles & immiculate)
Quaffe LSD
RAC Roll Bar
4 Point race Harneses
Momo Wheel
Westfield Race Seats
Priced to sell, at a very competitive £4,850.
Thanks for all comments so far, basically I have to pay good attention to the entire car including visible and hidden parts and look at general wear and tear, including fluids etc.
Did I get that right?
Do you know who did the rebuild?
Sounds similarish to my old car but with dry-sumping and an LSD - ideal. I have to confess I never really trusted my old xflow not to explode (based on horror stories which could be equally applied to pretty much any engine I guess) but it didn't in the year I had it and provided good performance. Sounded good too. I was always consoled by the fact that the worst case scenario was to stick in a zetec (with a bit of work) if the xflow went bang.
Good luck,
Mark
Sounds similarish to my old car but with dry-sumping and an LSD - ideal. I have to confess I never really trusted my old xflow not to explode (based on horror stories which could be equally applied to pretty much any engine I guess) but it didn't in the year I had it and provided good performance. Sounded good too. I was always consoled by the fact that the worst case scenario was to stick in a zetec (with a bit of work) if the xflow went bang.
Good luck,
Mark
Sorry... eyes open and all that 
My son recently bought a superb Westfield which had been built by the factory in 1998.
The car was in 100% condition and was running superbly until he had an oil leak.
Turns out he had forgotten how low these machines are and grounded over a speed hump. He has just had a bill for a new sump.
Moral of the story - get it up on a ramp and see if the owner had also forgotten the ground clearance.
The car was in 100% condition and was running superbly until he had an oil leak.
Turns out he had forgotten how low these machines are and grounded over a speed hump. He has just had a bill for a new sump.
Moral of the story - get it up on a ramp and see if the owner had also forgotten the ground clearance.
It's a live axle car, check the trailing arm brackets on the chassis. If the car has ever run sticky tyres these can be prone to shearing. Always check them when you have the wheels off and at least once a year.
If you do plan to track it and run sticky tyres, which judging by it's spec you may well be, at the first sign of them letting go reinforce them with a plate. Once done it's unlikely they'll cause you any trouble again.
Otherwise it's just all the usual checks you would do if you were buying an older 2nd hand car.
If you do plan to track it and run sticky tyres, which judging by it's spec you may well be, at the first sign of them letting go reinforce them with a plate. Once done it's unlikely they'll cause you any trouble again.
Otherwise it's just all the usual checks you would do if you were buying an older 2nd hand car.
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