Discussion
Got this today and quite excited to be a Libra owner again, even if there will be a bit of cash and pain before I get to drive it 
It's a factory built 07 Libra with a 1.6 VTEC Honda motor, the running gear needs attention, all 4 corners will be refurbed, new bearings joints bushes whatever it needs and everything blasted and powder coated including the engine cradle. Needs new shocks, going to fit a Passat rad, wheels want powder coating and by the time I've done any bits of repairs etc and seen to some star crazing it'll need spraying.
Also the motor has likely done big miles (62k on car and doner Unknown) so I'm planning on getting a 1.8 b18c bottom end, throw some new bearings and rings gaskets etc at it, use the 1.6 head which I've found out is the same casting as the type R head and some type R cams/springs, get the ecu chipped with the right map. Should be good for 190hp+ then. Probably get a new exhaust made too.
Thankfully, whilst this sounds quite extensive a lot of the work is just hard graft. Car is nice inside and is generally finished off quite well being a factory built.
It's a factory built 07 Libra with a 1.6 VTEC Honda motor, the running gear needs attention, all 4 corners will be refurbed, new bearings joints bushes whatever it needs and everything blasted and powder coated including the engine cradle. Needs new shocks, going to fit a Passat rad, wheels want powder coating and by the time I've done any bits of repairs etc and seen to some star crazing it'll need spraying.
Also the motor has likely done big miles (62k on car and doner Unknown) so I'm planning on getting a 1.8 b18c bottom end, throw some new bearings and rings gaskets etc at it, use the 1.6 head which I've found out is the same casting as the type R head and some type R cams/springs, get the ecu chipped with the right map. Should be good for 190hp+ then. Probably get a new exhaust made too.
Thankfully, whilst this sounds quite extensive a lot of the work is just hard graft. Car is nice inside and is generally finished off quite well being a factory built.
downsman said:
Nice car
Maybe you could post pictures of progress for us. I don't know much about Libres apart from liking the styling.
Will do Maybe you could post pictures of progress for us. I don't know much about Libres apart from liking the styling.
Have found an integra type R bottom end, and valves (type R ones are wasted), also have a full type R inlet mani/TB and cams on the way for my head.
Need to order all new gaskets, bearings, rings and a clutch and that should be everything needed on the engine side of things barring the ECU chipping
Cheers mate
Ordered a load of bits, bearings rings gaskets etc... Integra Type R cams came today, collecting a full short motor on Sunday. Got the wasted valves and dual valve springs too to go in the head so it's all bang on.
Went through the manual and ordered all the bolts required for refitting the wishbones and engine cradle to the tub.
One thing I've been pondering tonight - what is best for protecting the engine cradle and all wishbones/mounts etc...
I was going to powdercoat, but I don't believe it's the best option. It has no real chemical bond to the metal and if chipped will just expose the untreated metal underneath. There could also be some clearance issues when refitting bits.. I've heard some very good things about POR15 and epoxy mastic paint, anyone have experience of these? I like the fact I could do it myself too and have access to a shot blaster.
Ordered a load of bits, bearings rings gaskets etc... Integra Type R cams came today, collecting a full short motor on Sunday. Got the wasted valves and dual valve springs too to go in the head so it's all bang on.
Went through the manual and ordered all the bolts required for refitting the wishbones and engine cradle to the tub.
One thing I've been pondering tonight - what is best for protecting the engine cradle and all wishbones/mounts etc...
I was going to powdercoat, but I don't believe it's the best option. It has no real chemical bond to the metal and if chipped will just expose the untreated metal underneath. There could also be some clearance issues when refitting bits.. I've heard some very good things about POR15 and epoxy mastic paint, anyone have experience of these? I like the fact I could do it myself too and have access to a shot blaster.
330p4 said:
Nice project I have always liked these cars but when I tried one the ride quality was awfull and it made pushing hard on bumpy roads a no no is this normal or was this just poor set up I am used to stiffly sprung cars but this rather put me off
Ian
Depends who built it, they're all different. My old one was fairly compliant. Hopefully this one will be too, nor gone for a mega stiff setup.Ian
330p4 said:
Nice project I have always liked these cars but when I tried one the ride quality was awfull and it made pushing hard on bumpy roads a no no is this normal or was this just poor set up I am used to stiffly sprung cars but this rather put me off
Ian
The rear end of the original (ie NOT the Zcars type) rear suspension was extremely sensitive to set up. There were quite a few cars that had basic flaws in the rear end geometry that had stiff a/r bars and stiff springs in attempts to fix it, when they should have spent more time getting the static toe and camber correct at the rear.Ian
It was always going to be a 'pointy' car with lots of front end grip. A well set up Libra was very similar to a Mk1 Elise in handling, but even though the ride was good, it wasn't as good as the Elise.
Paul Drawmer said:
330p4 said:
Nice project I have always liked these cars but when I tried one the ride quality was awfull and it made pushing hard on bumpy roads a no no is this normal or was this just poor set up I am used to stiffly sprung cars but this rather put me off
Ian
The rear end of the original (ie NOT the Zcars type) rear suspension was extremely sensitive to set up. There were quite a few cars that had basic flaws in the rear end geometry that had stiff a/r bars and stiff springs in attempts to fix it, when they should have spent more time getting the static toe and camber correct at the rear.Ian
It was always going to be a 'pointy' car with lots of front end grip. A well set up Libra was very similar to a Mk1 Elise in handling, but even though the ride was good, it wasn't as good as the Elise.
Your site helped me the other day, ordered all the bits to do the passat rad. It's a good 6 years since I did the last one so it's good to have that info on the net!
I agree with your comments regarding setup, this is getting the standard 250lb front and 300lb rear springs and protech shocks (spoke to gaz and was horrified by the price, especially considering they're steel and no where near as nice as the protechs.) It does have ARBs though unlike my last one so it'll be interesting to see how that affects it.
When it's all up and running I think I'll get it all laser aligned properly. I was half temped to try and add some bracing to the rear wishbone mounts too, but at the same time I'm doing this all with it in mind that I'm not trying to make the car something it's not. With all new bushes, bearings, suspension and properly set up I'm sure it will be more than good enough for the road. The Libra isn't a track car but it does make a fantastic fast road/touring car, and that's all I have planned for it.
Yazza54 said:
I've heard some very good things about POR15 and epoxy mastic paint, anyone have experience of these?
Used POR15 on all my projects including my current one which is the rebuild of my Dax Rush. I stripped the entire chassis back to bare metal and 2 coats of POR15 have been applied. Biggest advantage is it's very durable and if you use the topcoat version it remedies the potential UV issue some people mention.NotNormal said:
Yazza54 said:
I've heard some very good things about POR15 and epoxy mastic paint, anyone have experience of these?
Used POR15 on all my projects including my current one which is the rebuild of my Dax Rush. I stripped the entire chassis back to bare metal and 2 coats of POR15 have been applied. Biggest advantage is it's very durable and if you use the topcoat version it remedies the potential UV issue some people mention.I use brushing and yes it is a bit more long winded but still gives a decent finish as when it dries it smooth's out.
Close up pic below for you
Couple of handy pointers:
- Don't put it on too thick as it will run when drying
- Although touch dry after 6-12 hours it takes a few days to fully harden
- No need to worry about applying in cold and moist condition, it actually sets harder in this environment
- Avoid skin contact and certainly don't let it set on your skin (it seriously does not come off
)
- If you want to re-use the pot, make sure the sealing rim of the pot/lid is completely paint free (or put lid on with cling film or similar barrier) otherwise next time you come to use it the lid is stuck solid as the paint has dried and joined them together.
- Personally I don't bother trying to clean the brushes afterwards, price vs hassle it's just easier to work on the basis of throwing the brush away after use.
- Buying wise, I always get great service from Frosts
Close up pic below for you
Couple of handy pointers:
- Don't put it on too thick as it will run when drying
- Although touch dry after 6-12 hours it takes a few days to fully harden
- No need to worry about applying in cold and moist condition, it actually sets harder in this environment
- Avoid skin contact and certainly don't let it set on your skin (it seriously does not come off
)- If you want to re-use the pot, make sure the sealing rim of the pot/lid is completely paint free (or put lid on with cling film or similar barrier) otherwise next time you come to use it the lid is stuck solid as the paint has dried and joined them together.
- Personally I don't bother trying to clean the brushes afterwards, price vs hassle it's just easier to work on the basis of throwing the brush away after use.
- Buying wise, I always get great service from Frosts
Edited by NotNormal on Thursday 25th February 11:58
NotNormal said:
I use brushing and yes it is a bit more long winded but still gives a decent finish as when it dries it smooth's out.
Close up pic below for you
Couple of handy pointers:
- Don't put it on too thick as it will run when drying
- Although touch dry after 6-12 hours it takes a few days to fully harden
- No need to worry about applying in cold and moist condition, it actually sets harder in this environment
- Avoid skin contact and certainly don't let it set on your skin (it seriously does not come off)
- If you want to re-use the pot, make sure the sealing rim of the pot/lid is completely paint free (or put lid on with cling film or similar barrier) otherwise next time you come to use it the lid is stuck solid as the paint has dried and joined them together.
- Personally I don't bother trying to clean the brushes afterwards, price vs hassle it's just easier to work on the basis of throwing the brush away after use.
- Buying wise, I always get great service from Frosts
Thanks for thatClose up pic below for you
Couple of handy pointers:
- Don't put it on too thick as it will run when drying
- Although touch dry after 6-12 hours it takes a few days to fully harden
- No need to worry about applying in cold and moist condition, it actually sets harder in this environment
- Avoid skin contact and certainly don't let it set on your skin (it seriously does not come off
)- If you want to re-use the pot, make sure the sealing rim of the pot/lid is completely paint free (or put lid on with cling film or similar barrier) otherwise next time you come to use it the lid is stuck solid as the paint has dried and joined them together.
- Personally I don't bother trying to clean the brushes afterwards, price vs hassle it's just easier to work on the basis of throwing the brush away after use.
- Buying wise, I always get great service from Frosts
Edited by NotNormal on Thursday 25th February 11:58
The finish doesn't look bad either, I think the primary goal is to protect everything over aesthetics. I'd be more bothered if it was 7 style or exocet but more bothered about stopping any rust. Such a shame it wasn't kept on top of throughout the years... or just done properly from the factory in the first place.
A full new set of rear wishbones came with the car and I'm going to blast them and re paint even though they look mint just because the factory paint finish was so poor.
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