Best solution to put on a chassis to prevent rust?
Discussion
Hi,
I want to treat my chassis with something to prevent rust and protect it from the sea air at St Andrews.
What is the best solution to use?
I have tried waxol but it does not look very good.
Would hamerite work just as well?
Is there any that would protect it and last for a good 10 years or so between applications?
Thanks William
If the chassis is already fitted, hammerite, then waxoyl over it is about as good as you will get. Hammerite on its own tends to chip and flake off, and will let the rust in eventually.
If it is a bare chassis that has yet to be built up into a car, powder coating or galvanising are favourites.
If it is a bare chassis that has yet to be built up into a car, powder coating or galvanising are favourites.
As Martin says, Hammerite chips easily.
Haven't tried it myself, but Frost sell some black paint they reckon is the dog's danglies for protection against rust. See www.frost.co.uk
Haven't tried it myself, but Frost sell some black paint they reckon is the dog's danglies for protection against rust. See www.frost.co.uk
it mau be expensive but you get what you pay for. Hammmerite is hard (britle) and WILL chip, POR15 is TOUGH and will not chip. It won't even come off very easily when attacked with an angle grinder.
I left some in a plastic beaker for a couple of days(they recommend you pour some off into another container for use, as if you get any on the lip of the lid and replace it you will not get the lid off - I kid you not). It set solid, and I was amazed at how much abuse it could take without sustaining damage. I could bash it with a club hammer and it just bounced off. Very very tough, and once its on, its one for good. Frankly I think with a thick enough coat even if the chassis rotted out from inside the paint would still have structural integrity!! (OK that might be taking it a bit far!)
A few quid extra for that level of protection is a worthwhile investment IMHO.
I left some in a plastic beaker for a couple of days(they recommend you pour some off into another container for use, as if you get any on the lip of the lid and replace it you will not get the lid off - I kid you not). It set solid, and I was amazed at how much abuse it could take without sustaining damage. I could bash it with a club hammer and it just bounced off. Very very tough, and once its on, its one for good. Frankly I think with a thick enough coat even if the chassis rotted out from inside the paint would still have structural integrity!! (OK that might be taking it a bit far!)
A few quid extra for that level of protection is a worthwhile investment IMHO.
So it's that good 
Impressive!
How much do you need to work with a small chassis such as a Caterfield? (Mines not that much bigger), and is it flexible?
What do you do if you have a surface rust already, just slap this stuff on top and forget about it, or grind the rust out and paint?
Impressive! How much do you need to work with a small chassis such as a Caterfield? (Mines not that much bigger), and is it flexible?
What do you do if you have a surface rust already, just slap this stuff on top and forget about it, or grind the rust out and paint?
I've used POr-15 in hte past and it is very good apart from two considerations:
the surface must have a good key (rusty is good as long as you remove the loose stuff). If the surface is too smooth it won't key properly and it will peel off. For smooth surfaces use metalready prep
It is sensitive to UV so overcoat with something else if using on Caterfield...
It goes a very long way as it's very thin, a quart would easily do a 7 chassis...
Rich
the surface must have a good key (rusty is good as long as you remove the loose stuff). If the surface is too smooth it won't key properly and it will peel off. For smooth surfaces use metalready prep
It is sensitive to UV so overcoat with something else if using on Caterfield...
It goes a very long way as it's very thin, a quart would easily do a 7 chassis...
Rich
thanks for that ricola
Just noticed another question like this in General Gassing... I've copied your post across
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=134192&f=23&h=0
Just noticed another question like this in General Gassing... I've copied your post across
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=134192&f=23&h=0
docevi1 said:
What do you do if you have a surface rust already, just slap this stuff on top and forget about it, or grind the rust out and paint?
Frost have a question and answer about how to apply POR-15 on their site.
ricola said:Agreed! I removed the rust physically with wire brushes, scrapers and chemicals. I then used metal ready to etch before applying POR15, and I overcoated with Waxoyl underseal.
I've used POr-15 in hte past and it is very good apart from two considerations:
the surface must have a good key (rusty is good as long as you remove the loose stuff). If the surface is too smooth it won't key properly and it will peel off. For smooth surfaces use metalready prep
It is sensitive to UV so overcoat with something else if using on Caterfield...
It goes a very long way as it's very thin, a quart would easily do a 7 chassis...
Rich
The POR15 doesn't give a good key for overcoating either, but Frosts have something to fix that too!
We use something called ruststop - see www.ruststoponline.co.uk for more details. We are based in Leith, and so have the same probs as you. Fitted this to an E-type that does 25,000 miles per year 2+ years ago, and the underside is still in great shape. A TR7 V8 that does only 5k per year that was ziebarted at the same time is starting to bubble. Contact me if you are interested or have any questions, I still have a few kits left,
cheers
Matt
cheers
Matt
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