broken bolt and drilling when everything else has failed

broken bolt and drilling when everything else has failed

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Jack_and_MLE

Original Poster:

623 posts

246 months

Saturday 4th August 2012
quotequote all
Hello All

I have a high tensile bolt which sheared of
I have tried drilling it out with cobalt drill bits and have failed.
The bolt has broken into the chassis of the car

Can someone one recommend a company who specializes in removing broken bolts around Oxford Didcot?

Cheers

Jack

Jack_and_MLE

Original Poster:

623 posts

246 months

Saturday 4th August 2012
quotequote all
yes correct and body work in the way so could not use heat

Which drill bit did you use? very expensive cobalt?

Jack

f1rob

317 posts

183 months

Saturday 4th August 2012
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What speed did you drill at most people go way too fast,7-900 rpm can work wonders
carbide or carbide tippeds the way to go especially if your drilling has put more heat into the broken bolt

ch427

9,741 posts

240 months

Saturday 4th August 2012
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google spark erosion, you may find one in your area. Someone like:
http://www.sparkeroding.co.uk/

khm

340 posts

208 months

Saturday 4th August 2012
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had a job to do last year to drill out 6 bolts from an old turbo, cobalt wouldn't touch them, got a carbide drill - amazing difference, like drilling mild steel, steady speed lots of rocol
drill was very expensive but did the job - you need a green wheel to sharpen them too

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

168 months

Sunday 5th August 2012
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Slow and steady is the way steat of as small as poss go up in size slowly old engine oil is a brilliant but cheap lube!!

thescamper

920 posts

233 months

Monday 6th August 2012
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What tool are you going to use once you have drilled it?

My advice would be to use one of the snap-on multi spline exractor kits and not the traditional easy out.

I have a kit of these and have not yet had a broken bolt or stud defeat it,

HERE Be a linky

Take a look at page 195 to Page 199.

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

168 months

Monday 6th August 2012
quotequote all
+1 for advise about extractor never known one fail ,had a set ,broke my own rules and lent it out ,never seen tools or friend {?}again they are the best

julian64

14,317 posts

261 months

Monday 6th August 2012
quotequote all
My personal never fail is liquid nitrogen.

I have a supply at work. Can be used in a small spray. nothing has survived more than about thirty seconds. Usually a big bang while spraying and then the bolt can be undone by hand.

Bearings simply fall out.

Jack_and_MLE

Original Poster:

623 posts

246 months

Monday 6th August 2012
quotequote all
The Nitrogen looks cool!

However, I have given it my best shot, spend hours on it and the broken bolt is still it madrage

I've found a local company who should be able to sort it for the same cost as a new drill and drills bits.

Jack

julian64

14,317 posts

261 months

Monday 6th August 2012
quotequote all
If you have a welding system, at least some of the time you don't need access.

Iv'e even done it before with a car battery, although a welding system is preferrable to control the current.

All you do is get an old screwdriver and connect it via a lead to one end of a battery, the fixed bolt to the other. Touch them together and a few sparks later you will have a screwdriver welded to the bolt.

Warning, don't do it between frame and bolt or you will have effectively welded the bolt to the frame!!

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

168 months

Monday 6th August 2012
quotequote all
julian64 said:
If you have a welding system, at least some of the time you don't need access.

Iv'e even done it before with a car battery, although a welding system is preferrable to control the current.

All you do is get an old screwdriver and connect it via a lead to one end of a battery, the fixed bolt to the other. Touch them together and a few sparks later you will have a screwdriver welded to the bolt.

Warning, don't do it between frame and bolt or you will have effectively welded the bolt to the frame!!
That to put it mildly is b-----ks and bloody dangerous too ,do you realy believe that you will get a bolt out that is in tight enough to shear off with a welded screwdriver with mickey mouse s--t weld!!,, dream on!!!!

julian64

14,317 posts

261 months

Monday 6th August 2012
quotequote all
one eyed mick said:
That to put it mildly is b-----ks and bloody dangerous too ,do you realy believe that you will get a bolt out that is in tight enough to shear off with a welded screwdriver with mickey mouse s--t weld!!,, dream on!!!!
As much as I appreciate your input I'm not suggesting anything I haven't already done. P.S. Could you tone down your posts a little as you come across quite angry for some reason.

Life Saab Itch

37,068 posts

195 months

Tuesday 7th August 2012
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one eyed mick said:
That to put it mildly is b-----ks and bloody dangerous too ,do you realy believe that you will get a bolt out that is in tight enough to shear off with a welded screwdriver with mickey mouse s--t weld!!,, dream on!!!!
Nope. Sorry, but that works. I've seen it done with6 12v car batteries linked together. 72 volts will sort the problem. If you're welding a screwdriver to it, its going to be an old one so you won't be worried about whacking a pair of stilsons on it to get the leverage to undo it.

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

168 months

Tuesday 7th August 2012
quotequote all
Sorry about the language , but I still maintain what you sugest is very dangerous not to say stupid ,I ve been on the tools all my life and yes have done some very stupid /dangerous things but to suggest radical action like this on an open forum is alittle scary to say the least. To the op where abouts on what vehicle is the offending bolt ? ,acsess cannot be too bad if you can get in to drill ,a few details please

julian64

14,317 posts

261 months

Tuesday 7th August 2012
quotequote all
Not sure why you would think its dangerous. Assuming there are no volatile substances nearby.

The 12 volt battery isn't capable of electrocuting anyone.

You can control the current by either instituting a resistance or simply time sharing the current flow.

There will of course be a lot of heat generated but that is to be expected.

If you just leave it you will muller the battery, but the battery won't explode so I'm not sure why you consider the whole process too dangerous.

I believe it was quite often used as a poor mans stick welder in long days gone past.

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

168 months

Tuesday 7th August 2012
quotequote all
Battery explosion is poss the main concen --have you not seen one go up?-I can tell you it can get very messy ,the risk is from gas from the batteries? and sparks they really like getting together !!. Iam concerned for peoples safety if you want to live dangerously who am I to to rain on your parade ?

julian64

14,317 posts

261 months

Tuesday 7th August 2012
quotequote all
Okay I understand that, and I agree you need to be careful.

But as I understand batteries though you are very unlikely to get it to explode.

As far as I remember discharging a battery in this way gives you lead sulphate and water from the chemical reaction. No hydrogen is produced. A lot of heat and electrical energy is produced but no explosive gasses. When you think about this if a battery could explode when discharging next to an ignition/heat source they wouldn't be much use for starting cars where they are often discharged quickly and sat next to exhaust systems and fuel rails.

If you were trying to get a battery to explode, it would be much better to do the opposite and charge it while keeping it sealed by blocking its venting.

In this way the charging does the reverse chemical reaction and gives leadoxide/lead and heaps of sulphuric acid from which you will get hydrogen bubbles produced in a localised area which you could explode with an ignition source.

Having said that though your alternator is charging your battery in a normal car as well and cars don't go bang all the time.

I appreciate that it probably isn't the most health and safety way to go about the solution but I don't think its particularly worthy of your darwin award.

If you saw me with the liquid nitrogen, then you'd have a point smile. If you ever have to make the decision as to whether you want a small amount of liquid nitrogen on your hand or a small amount of battery acid, choose the battery acid. Liquid nitrogen hurts, a lot!

Gary-b2qtk

1 posts

12 months

Monday 27th November 2023
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Jack_and_MLE said:
The Nitrogen looks cool!

However, I have given it my best shot, spend hours on it and the broken bolt is still it madrage

I've found a local company who should be able to sort it for the same cost as a new drill and drills bits.

Jack
Hi, what was the local company you found?

mickrick

3,705 posts

180 months

Monday 1st January
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Get a decent welder to weld a nut on the stud. A good welder will be able to build weld up on the stud, even if it's bellow the chassis plate.
We have a tame Lloyds certified welder at work, and I haven't seen him beat yet. The heat from the weld will free the stud. He's got M6 out for me in the past. If you try drilling and go off centre, it's game over. If you try and use an easy out and break it, you're definitely screwed, if you'll excuse the pun smile