Icing and auto drop side windows?
Discussion
Never had a car before where frameless side glass drops when the door is opened. Works fine, except on icy mornings.
Especially as some on here are from Scandinavia, are there any tricks/ideas to stop ice/frost jamming the window, when the door is opened, and (possibly?) stressing the mechanism?
Suggestions like "use a garage" are not helpful............
Thanks All.
Especially as some on here are from Scandinavia, are there any tricks/ideas to stop ice/frost jamming the window, when the door is opened, and (possibly?) stressing the mechanism?
Suggestions like "use a garage" are not helpful............
Thanks All.I'm interested in the response as my Porsche 911 (997) is a nightmare. A little frost and the window won't lower meaning you can usually open the door but not shut it. Some days I've driven for miles with the window poking out of the frame as I just can't defrost it!! In fact, the car is a nightmare in the cold full stop, steams up like a b
d too (and no it isn't damp inside). Rant over. Feel better now 
d too (and no it isn't damp inside). Rant over. Feel better now LGC-Adams said:
Never had a car before where frameless side glass drops when the door is opened. Works fine, except on icy mornings.
Especially as some on here are from Scandinavia, are there any tricks/ideas to stop ice/frost jamming the window, when the door is opened, and (possibly?) stressing the mechanism?
Suggestions like "use a garage" are not helpful............ Thanks All.
If you have to park in the road then I think you will have a problem. However you don't need much shelter from the frost to make a big difference. Just parking next to a fence, or better still the wall of the house is enough with the sort of weather we have where I live. We have had -3 the last couple of days. I would have thought a hair drier would have done the trick and would be needed in really cold places - but I've never tried it. One snag is that the car doesn't have dedicated side window demisting vents so you need to point the fresh air vents to the side if you want the side windows to be cleared. Fortunately the max demist setting of the aircon seems to work pretty well.Especially as some on here are from Scandinavia, are there any tricks/ideas to stop ice/frost jamming the window, when the door is opened, and (possibly?) stressing the mechanism?
Suggestions like "use a garage" are not helpful............
Thanks All.Be interested to see what the Scandinavians do.
Lubricate the window seals with Gummi Fledge.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nextzett-Gummi-Pflege-S...
Running luke warm water around the window edges while unlocking helps on the really cold mornings.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nextzett-Gummi-Pflege-S...
Running luke warm water around the window edges while unlocking helps on the really cold mornings.
cuprabob said:
Lubricate the window seals with Gummi Fledge.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nextzett-Gummi-Pflege-S...
Running luke warm water around the window edges while unlocking helps on the really cold mornings.
The Wurth product is the proper one. I think these re-labeled ones are water down versions of it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nextzett-Gummi-Pflege-S...
Running luke warm water around the window edges while unlocking helps on the really cold mornings.
Glassman said:
cuprabob said:
Lubricate the window seals with Gummi Fledge.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nextzett-Gummi-Pflege-S...
Running luke warm water around the window edges while unlocking helps on the really cold mornings.
The Wurth product is the proper one. I think these re-labeled ones are water down versions of it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nextzett-Gummi-Pflege-S...
Running luke warm water around the window edges while unlocking helps on the really cold mornings.
Coming from Finland I have some experience in coping with winter conditions. However it's been a long time since I've owned a car with frameless windows. I've had two open-top cars with frameless windows a long time ago which I've used as my daily drivers for six winters in total. That was an interesting experience.
The frameless windows might be problematic in below zero degrees celcius temperatures. The tricks that locals use here include using electrical interior heaters which are excellent in any car in cold conditions. This is probably not a viable solution to people in UK.
Using some kind of lubricant on the door seals is one thing that can be used to prevent problems. Some say that silicon based stuff is the best while others prefer non-silicon based solutions. I'm not familiar with the product which cuprabob linked here so I can't say how good or bad stuff that is.
One potential problem is ice on the seal between the lower part of the window and door. This might prevent the window lowering.
If ice has already formed in potentially problematic areas you can try the following:
- Use credit card or something like that to scrape the ice away.
- Melt the ice with hairdryer or using plastic bag filled with warm water etc.
[Edit] One more thing: bcr5784's advice is also very solid. Think about how you park the car. It can make a big difference if the car is parked next to a fence or some other structure. If possible park the drivers side next to /close to fence or something like that if possible. That might make a big difference in terms how much the window area freezes during the night.
The frameless windows might be problematic in below zero degrees celcius temperatures. The tricks that locals use here include using electrical interior heaters which are excellent in any car in cold conditions. This is probably not a viable solution to people in UK.
Using some kind of lubricant on the door seals is one thing that can be used to prevent problems. Some say that silicon based stuff is the best while others prefer non-silicon based solutions. I'm not familiar with the product which cuprabob linked here so I can't say how good or bad stuff that is.
One potential problem is ice on the seal between the lower part of the window and door. This might prevent the window lowering.
If ice has already formed in potentially problematic areas you can try the following:
- Use credit card or something like that to scrape the ice away.
- Melt the ice with hairdryer or using plastic bag filled with warm water etc.
[Edit] One more thing: bcr5784's advice is also very solid. Think about how you park the car. It can make a big difference if the car is parked next to a fence or some other structure. If possible park the drivers side next to /close to fence or something like that if possible. That might make a big difference in terms how much the window area freezes during the night.
Edited by Portti on Friday 7th January 18:55
I would agree with the use of a silicone grease.
Having driven Honda s2000s for the last 20-years, a once (or twice) a year coating of the rubber seals was an essential part of ownership to keep the door and soft-top rubbers flexible.
Honda recommended the use of 'Shin-Etsu silicone grease', but similar should be fine, and saw me through UK and (much colder) German alpine winters. Fortunately the Honda had a brilliant heater which made those winters bearable - the A110's is like a candle in comparison.
Only a VERY light covering was needed - too much and you'll be cursing the grease smears on the windows and your clothes. As an illustration, the tube I bought 20-years ago is still half-full. The easiest way to apply was with fingers, but be sure to wear gloves to avoid the effort/pain of cleaning it off your skin.
Having driven Honda s2000s for the last 20-years, a once (or twice) a year coating of the rubber seals was an essential part of ownership to keep the door and soft-top rubbers flexible.
Honda recommended the use of 'Shin-Etsu silicone grease', but similar should be fine, and saw me through UK and (much colder) German alpine winters. Fortunately the Honda had a brilliant heater which made those winters bearable - the A110's is like a candle in comparison.
Only a VERY light covering was needed - too much and you'll be cursing the grease smears on the windows and your clothes. As an illustration, the tube I bought 20-years ago is still half-full. The easiest way to apply was with fingers, but be sure to wear gloves to avoid the effort/pain of cleaning it off your skin.
Well bks. I think I've just blown a fuse on my Drivers window. I read this the other day, ordered some silicone type stuff but forgot to put it on last night, then I at least pre scraped the drivers side door, but I think the mechanic was more frozen or over stressed as it now won't budge at all.
So can't close the door or (want to) alarm the car. Going to have to get this fixed ASAP this morning but pretty irritated with myself for forgetting to use the damn stuff last night and for the car being fragile as I did at least pre-scrape the windows
ks. I think I've just blown a fuse on my Drivers window. I read this the other day, ordered some silicone type stuff but forgot to put it on last night, then I at least pre scraped the drivers side door, but I think the mechanic was more frozen or over stressed as it now won't budge at all.So can't close the door or (want to) alarm the car. Going to have to get this fixed ASAP this morning but pretty irritated with myself for forgetting to use the damn stuff last night and for the car being fragile as I did at least pre-scrape the windows
Mannginger said:
Well bks. I think I've just blown a fuse on my Drivers window. I read this the other day, ordered some silicone type stuff but forgot to put it on last night, then I at least pre scraped the drivers side door, but I think the mechanic was more frozen or over stressed as it now won't budge at all.
So can't close the door or (want to) alarm the car. Going to have to get this fixed ASAP this morning but pretty irritated with myself for forgetting to use the damn stuff last night and for the car being fragile as I did at least pre-scrape the windows
Check the manual, there might be a spare fuse in the fuse box (or at least one you can swap for the time being)ks. I think I've just blown a fuse on my Drivers window. I read this the other day, ordered some silicone type stuff but forgot to put it on last night, then I at least pre scraped the drivers side door, but I think the mechanic was more frozen or over stressed as it now won't budge at all.So can't close the door or (want to) alarm the car. Going to have to get this fixed ASAP this morning but pretty irritated with myself for forgetting to use the damn stuff last night and for the car being fragile as I did at least pre-scrape the windows
OK Phew. After another 15 minutes of running the window has decided to work again so clearly not a blown fuse. Must have been well stuck inside the door as there was literally no reaction / wiggle from it.
Your post has made me realize that:
1. I don't know where my emergency tyre inflator is (Seemingly that's where the fuse tweezers are)
2. I can't even find the bloody fuse panel! I'm clearly blind as couldn't see it in the access panel next tot he steering wheel?
Anyway, at least the car is locked and alarmed etc again and the window does seem OK so immediate issue resolved, I just need to figure out the rest when I've got a bit more time / physical wiggle room to look around the car a bit more from a maintenance perspective
Your post has made me realize that:
1. I don't know where my emergency tyre inflator is (Seemingly that's where the fuse tweezers are)
2. I can't even find the bloody fuse panel! I'm clearly blind as couldn't see it in the access panel next tot he steering wheel?
Anyway, at least the car is locked and alarmed etc again and the window does seem OK so immediate issue resolved, I just need to figure out the rest when I've got a bit more time / physical wiggle room to look around the car a bit more from a maintenance perspective
Be aware, that the owner's manual instructions (at least in my March 2021 issue (Oct 2021 build) are wrong and omit important information.
Owner's Manual, section 5.24 states: "unclip the flap A on the driver's side"
On a RHD (UK) vehicle, the fuse panel is behind the lower dash panel on the passenger/near-side.
Also, you should NOT just pull the panel off. There are two hook shaped protrusions on the back of the panel, at the top edge, that will be snapped off if you do so.
Panel removal is easiest by first opening the passenger door - less risk of scratching/damage. Then gently pull the panel away from the fixings at the bottom, working upwards. At the top edge pull it away by A MAXIMUM OF 10mm, then slide the panel left, towards the open door, and then pull it towards you.
There is no obvious reason for the hooked protrusions. They seem to serve no useful purpose, other than to indicate the panel has been removed by someone not knowing how to do so, but do aid alignment when refitting.
Illustration taken from Alpine's 'parking aids install instructions'. Note these are for LHD, reverse the sideways movement for RHD (UK) cars)
Owner's Manual, section 5.24 states: "unclip the flap A on the driver's side"
On a RHD (UK) vehicle, the fuse panel is behind the lower dash panel on the passenger/near-side.
Also, you should NOT just pull the panel off. There are two hook shaped protrusions on the back of the panel, at the top edge, that will be snapped off if you do so.
Panel removal is easiest by first opening the passenger door - less risk of scratching/damage. Then gently pull the panel away from the fixings at the bottom, working upwards. At the top edge pull it away by A MAXIMUM OF 10mm, then slide the panel left, towards the open door, and then pull it towards you.
There is no obvious reason for the hooked protrusions. They seem to serve no useful purpose, other than to indicate the panel has been removed by someone not knowing how to do so, but do aid alignment when refitting.
Illustration taken from Alpine's 'parking aids install instructions'. Note these are for LHD, reverse the sideways movement for RHD (UK) cars)
Edited by astage on Thursday 20th January 10:21
Be aware, that the owner's manual instructions (at least in my March 2021 issue (Oct 2021 build) are wrong and omit important information.
Owner's Manual, section 5.24 states: "unclip the flap A on the driver's side"
On a RHD (UK) vehicle, the fuse panel is behind the lower dash panel on the passenger/near-side.
Also, you should NOT just pull the panel off. There are two hook shaped protrusions on the back of the panel, at the top edge, that will be snapped off if you do so.
Panel removal is easiest by first opening the passenger door - less risk of scratching/damage. Then gently pull the panel away from the fixings at the bottom, working upwards. At the top edge pull it away by A MAXIMUM OF 10mm, then slide the panel left, towards the open door, and then pull it towards you.
There is no obvious reason for the hooked protrusions. They seem to serve no useful purpose, other than to indicate the panel has been removed by someone not knowing how to do so, but do aid alignment when refitting.
Illustration taken from Alpine's 'parking aids install instructions'. Note these are for LHD, reverse the sideways movement for RHD (UK) cars)
Owner's Manual, section 5.24 states: "unclip the flap A on the driver's side"
On a RHD (UK) vehicle, the fuse panel is behind the lower dash panel on the passenger/near-side.
Also, you should NOT just pull the panel off. There are two hook shaped protrusions on the back of the panel, at the top edge, that will be snapped off if you do so.
Panel removal is easiest by first opening the passenger door - less risk of scratching/damage. Then gently pull the panel away from the fixings at the bottom, working upwards. At the top edge pull it away by A MAXIMUM OF 10mm, then slide the panel left, towards the open door, and then pull it towards you.
There is no obvious reason for the hooked protrusions. They seem to serve no useful purpose, other than to indicate the panel has been removed by someone not knowing how to do so, but do aid alignment when refitting.
Illustration taken from Alpine's 'parking aids install instructions'. Note these are for LHD, reverse the sideways movement for RHD (UK) cars)
Edited by astage on Thursday 20th January 10:21
Mannginger said:
OK Phew. After another 15 minutes of running the window has decided to work again so clearly not a blown fuse. Must have been well stuck inside the door as there was literally no reaction / wiggle from it.
The owner's manual, section: "Electric Windows 2/2", on page 3.12 does indicate:"The one-touch electric window is equipped with heat protection: if you press the switch for the window more than sixteen consecutive times it goes into protection mode (locking the window).
You can:
– use the electric window switch briefly and with intervals of approximately 30 seconds;
– with the engine running, the window will be unlocked after approximately 20 minutes of inaction on the electric window switch."
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