New vehicle - running in.
Discussion
Just taken delivery and I’m following the recommendations from the manual for running in. These days engines are already ‘run in’ as such and this is more a ‘bedding in’ exercise, unlike the old days where you HAD to run in otherwise you were in trouble.
What is everyone doing? My old school engine building and general paranoia leads me to think that a 600 mile oil and filter change (and possibly gear fluid) might be a good idea… or am I just too paranoid? Do I trust Alpine and ignore an ‘initial service’. Ariel have a 500 mile service for vtec powered Nomads and Atoms, so it’s not like every modern engine is good for 12k straight out of the box.
What is everyone doing? My old school engine building and general paranoia leads me to think that a 600 mile oil and filter change (and possibly gear fluid) might be a good idea… or am I just too paranoid? Do I trust Alpine and ignore an ‘initial service’. Ariel have a 500 mile service for vtec powered Nomads and Atoms, so it’s not like every modern engine is good for 12k straight out of the box.
Edited by Coilover on Friday 26th November 08:23
I picked mine up with 16 miles on it, immediately put 150 miles on it (and a very nice lunch) the same day, then the following week did 400 miles over 3 days on a little break in Northumberland. I have followed the guidance so didn't extend over 3500 rpm, and I hope putting on those early miles in fairly long drives avoided a lot of early mile cold stop/starts. I'm now just beyond 600 miles but haven't extended beyond 4-4500 but thats mainly due to not being out in it much due to work.
I did wonder how cautious Alpine are being as the engine isn't that exotic and is known to be robust in other applications, but going steady for the first few trips out didn't seem to me to be much of a burden as a just in case precaution. Hadn't thought about early oil changes - nobody has suggested that but it was common in years past.
I did wonder how cautious Alpine are being as the engine isn't that exotic and is known to be robust in other applications, but going steady for the first few trips out didn't seem to me to be much of a burden as a just in case precaution. Hadn't thought about early oil changes - nobody has suggested that but it was common in years past.
From new I had her in automatic and sports. Did 600 miles under 3500 rpm (majority of which were on a road trip so mix of roads). Then a further 400 miles bringing the RPM up a bit more gradually before finally ticking over 1000 miles and letting her go full flow.
She is finally starting to loosen up a bit now (think I'm on c2500 miles) but it was very tight to start I have to say so di think there is merit in a run-in period
She is finally starting to loosen up a bit now (think I'm on c2500 miles) but it was very tight to start I have to say so di think there is merit in a run-in period
I did the advised 620 miles / 1000km under 3500rpm, and using the dash readout, no more than 50% throttle.
After that, up to 75% throttle and 4-5000 for a couple of hundred miles or so, then full welly around 1000 miles IIRC.
I did get the oil changed at 1500. Completely elective, just something I always told myself I'd do if I ever ran in a brand new engine.
After that, up to 75% throttle and 4-5000 for a couple of hundred miles or so, then full welly around 1000 miles IIRC.
I did get the oil changed at 1500. Completely elective, just something I always told myself I'd do if I ever ran in a brand new engine.
Hoofty said:
I did the advised 620 miles / 1000km under 3500rpm, and using the dash readout, no more than 50% throttle.
After that, up to 75% throttle and 4-5000 for a couple of hundred miles or so, then full welly around 1000 miles IIRC.
I did get the oil changed at 1500. Completely elective, just something I always told myself I'd do if I ever ran in a brand new engine.
Yes I did the same, but no oil change due to modern oils & tolerances, it's very frisky engine now at 2k miles After that, up to 75% throttle and 4-5000 for a couple of hundred miles or so, then full welly around 1000 miles IIRC.
I did get the oil changed at 1500. Completely elective, just something I always told myself I'd do if I ever ran in a brand new engine.
Huge variation in Forum opinions
I know several high-level engine builders for race or endurance or road cars (and bikes). The engine and transmission spec and intended use leads to their varying advice; so does Sir want max power very soon or wait a little longer for 100k+ miles without a rebuild?! Also there are many build spec variables of course, and regarding oil changes motorbikes still use run-in oil due mainly to their tight tolerances for allowing very high rpms.
So with a new engine I follow the manual which is designed to protect the car from numpty errors, plus the main extra advice I've been given for bikes and car engines which I'm sure many here already know, or can add to.
Advice was; always warm up thoroughly on the road with 15mins normal driving then use the recommended revs for the mileage and often accelerate promptly using up to half throttle, swap gears frequently, quite often but only on a light throttle briefly use more revs than the manual suggests to bed in piston rings, and never use much throttle from lower revs which is especially crucial with the extra torque of a turbo engine, even when run-in.
Many years ago, after rebuilds the old ’Running In, please pass’ was displayed in the back window.
1986: Bought MG Maestro EFI.
Run in: 60mph max for 600 / 1000 miles... avoid over revving.
(Very frustrating... but did it)
1990: Calibra
Questioned run in....Just told, to basically go & enjoy yourself.
1986: Bought MG Maestro EFI.
Run in: 60mph max for 600 / 1000 miles... avoid over revving.
(Very frustrating... but did it)
1990: Calibra
Questioned run in....Just told, to basically go & enjoy yourself.
footsoldier said:
Colllect from dealer, warm everything up, take it easy until the first roundabout, then nail it.
30 years of experience there….
An Italian Italian-engine builder I know said to me30 years of experience there….
“If you run an engine in slowly you get a slow engine”
I straddled the official advice and the Italian advice!! My engine is nicely run in and seems much more eager than when new.
This macho stuff about just jump in and thrash it is cobblers. Just drive sensibly for the first 1,000 miles or so.
Labouring an engine at low rpm (like standing on the pedals of a push-bike) does far more harm than giving it a few revs but it's silly to go hunting the red line straight out of the showroom.
Manufacturing tolerances are much better than they used to be but they're still not perfect every time in any form of mass production.
Labouring an engine at low rpm (like standing on the pedals of a push-bike) does far more harm than giving it a few revs but it's silly to go hunting the red line straight out of the showroom.
Manufacturing tolerances are much better than they used to be but they're still not perfect every time in any form of mass production.
K2iss said:
I have the telemetry on when starting a trip, and I’ll take it super easy while not up to temp.
I also found in sport mode, it’s best to switch to manual to keep the revs under control, but revert to auto as soon as in traffic to avoid labouring the engine.
In all modes the car changes down when the revs get too low. Can't say for sure whether it is any more likely to labour in manual than auto - have you found that to be the case? Unlike my Cayman (in auto) I have never heard the car labour even briefly.I also found in sport mode, it’s best to switch to manual to keep the revs under control, but revert to auto as soon as in traffic to avoid labouring the engine.
Gassing Station | Alpine | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff