MR2 Spyder

[ZackM]

I want to buy a MR2 Spyder. I hear that a little oil burning for the pre-facelift cars is normal? You just need to be on top of the oil topping and it should be ok? I know post-facelift are a safer bet. But they are rare and around here silly priced. I found a very nice pre-facelift, no rust, everything seems clean, lower mileage. Thanks.

[bearman68]

Go for it. Great cars, and good fun to drive.
Rear subframe has been known to rust, and my radiator was leaking, eventually causing loss of the coolant. So buy it with your eyes open, and I'm sure it will be fine. I mean, it's got an Avensis engine in it, what could go wrong?

[ZackM]

bearman68 said:

Go for it. Great cars, and good fun to drive.
Rear subframe has been known to rust, and my radiator was leaking, eventually causing loss of the coolant. So buy it with your eyes open, and I'm sure it will be fine. I mean, it's got an Avensis engine in it, what could go wrong?

Thanks. Like I said I found a really nice one. No rust whatsoever. Car seems like never saw winter. You can even see the paint on some of the under parts. I couldn't make photos because it's so low. But I saw no rust on subframe or anywhere else.


The only thing is, it's letting out some smoke puff when you hit the gas hard. I was told by other MR2 spyder owners this is not a big deal and I just need to stay on top of the oil levels. And that most of them do that.

I asked the seller to start the car and pump the gas a bit. It was a cold start. Gray smoke puffs when it hits the right revs. Hit the gas hard, short smoke puff shoots out. He said he thinks it's because the car had been sitting for a while. He's selling because he has no time to drive it anymore. I could see it had been a while since he last drove as there was a rust coat on the discs. But can that explain the smoke? We went for a drive, I think maybe like 5-10 mins tops. When we got back, after we talked for a few mins, I asked him to start the car again and pump the gas. Again, at the hard gas pedal push, gray smoke puff shot out. I mean when you really step on it hard.

But apart from this the car is a very solid example. No rust that I could see underneath or on body. It has 65000 miles on the clock. 2000 YM. It's a factory hardtop model, so it has AC, and of course a hardtop. Price is good. Question is if the puffs are a deal breaker.

Edited by ZackM on Thursday 11th May 08:27

[bearman68]

It's not impossible to put a new engine in if it came to that. They are prone to worn bores on this model year. A replacement engine is not off the cards cost wise, so if you like it, buy it. You're never going to lose much money, and the upside is quite large.

[ZackM]

bearman68 said:

It's not impossible to put a new engine in if it came to that. They are prone to worn bores on this model year. A replacement engine is not off the cards cost wise, so if you like it, buy it. You're never going to lose much money, and the upside is quite large.

Thanks. But do you agree most of them do that? And that if I stay on top of the oil levels it will last? This will be a weekend car only. So only driven weekends and only spring/summer. I have another car for daily.

[bearman68]

ZackM said:

Thanks. But do you agree most of them do that? And that if I stay on top of the oil levels it will last? This will be a weekend car only. So only driven weekends and only spring/summer. I have another car for daily.

I can't tell you this. Mine was using oil and water, and came to a sticky end, because the water leak was the rad, and I didn't change it until the engine went bang. So I changed the engine.
Part of my thinking in buying an MR2 was that it was a fun convertible with excellent handling, reasonable acceleration, and a cheap option. I considered a Boxter, but I was put off by the difficulty, and risk of the IMS bearing. And of course the massive cost of fixing it if this did happen. My thinking was that if the MR2 self destructed, then parts were cheap and easy to find and fit. And so it proved. After my engine went bang, I found a low mileage Avensis engine from 2006, and fitted that. And now it runs fine. The worst possible scenario, and it was fixed with no big shakes.

So it's not possible to say if the engine or the car will last: - the couple of issues are known (pre cats, oil burning, sub frame), so if you like it, go and buy it. Like any car that's 20 years old or more, there is a risk. But the risk is quite small, and the upsides are quite high.

It's a sweet little car, and they handle so well. Th brakes are excellent, and it will donut all day long if you want it to. It's not expensive to run. And it's got a removeable roof. What's not to like?

[ZackM]

bearman68 said:

ZackM said:

Thanks. But do you agree most of them do that? And that if I stay on top of the oil levels it will last? This will be a weekend car only. So only driven weekends and only spring/summer. I have another car for daily.

I can't tell you this. Mine was using oil and water, and came to a sticky end, because the water leak was the rad, and I didn't change it until the engine went bang. So I changed the engine.
Part of my thinking in buying an MR2 was that it was a fun convertible with excellent handling, reasonable acceleration, and a cheap option. I considered a Boxter, but I was put off by the difficulty, and risk of the IMS bearing. And of course the massive cost of fixing it if this did happen. My thinking was that if the MR2 self destructed, then parts were cheap and easy to find and fit. And so it proved. After my engine went bang, I found a low mileage Avensis engine from 2006, and fitted that. And now it runs fine. The worst possible scenario, and it was fixed with no big shakes.

So it's not possible to say if the engine or the car will last: - the couple of issues are known (pre cats, oil burning, sub frame), so if you like it, go and buy it. Like any car that's 20 years old or more, there is a risk. But the risk is quite small, and the upsides are quite high.

It's a sweet little car, and they handle so well. Th brakes are excellent, and it will donut all day long if you want it to. It's not expensive to run. And it's got a removeable roof. What's not to like?

Thanks. I saw on a US MR2 spyder forum the recommendation to buy this: https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/toyota-...

Seems to be the new and improved facelift design, which is better. But I'm not sure this is just the original Toyota part of if that site makes a kit out of it, adding other bits to make it work. But apparently buying this block you could use all the rest of your original pre-facelift engine and end up with the better facelift piston design. Have your heard of this option?

I googled the Toyota part number 11400-22122 listed on the site and it's available from other sources. But like I said, I can't say if it will come with everything the monkywrenchracing comes with. Because if it does, and I can indeed buy this and use the rest of the original engine, I could potentially order it from my local Toyota dealer.

[ucb]

My 2001 uses oil but no smoke on acceleration or throttle.
The timing chain tensioner seal is leaking on mine so I will have to change that before saying the oil use is inherent in the engine but the 1zz is a heavy, oil-using engine by reputation. The FL cars did reduce this issue but not completely exclude it.
One thing to note is that if that car is using oil, the pre-cats on the standard exhaust manifold will be breaking down and may well cause engine failure as shards find their way into the cylindes
There are a multitude of engine swaps you can go for with these and they are great to drive.

Get yourself onto www.mr2roc.org.uk which is a great resource with fantastic owners. Theres an extensive buyers guide on there too.
The one in the pictures looks very clean.

[ZackM]

ucb said:

My 2001 uses oil but no smoke on acceleration or throttle.
The timing chain tensioner seal is leaking on mine so I will have to change that before saying the oil use is inherent in the engine but the 1zz is a heavy, oil-using engine by reputation. The FL cars did reduce this issue but not completely exclude it.
One thing to note is that if that car is using oil, the pre-cats on the standard exhaust manifold will be breaking down and may well cause engine failure as shards find their way into the cylindes
There are a multitude of engine swaps you can go for with these and they are great to drive.

Get yourself onto www.mr2roc.org.uk which is a great resource with fantastic owners. Theres an extensive buyers guide on there too.
The one in the pictures looks very clean.

Thanks. That link doesn't work though.

A swap is out of question, as it's illegal here, unfortunately. Would love a 2ZZ.

The precats braking down is exactly what I'm worried about. I mean, I will decat it as soon as I have the car, if it still has the original precats. But my worry is that it's either already too late, or it will be made worse by the drive back, which is about 105 miles. The seller offered to bring the car back to me. I asked him to make sure to top the oil up. But this doesn't put me at anymore easy. Although I saw some 1ZZ burning oil on YT, where the smoke is basically always there. Whereas this is only when the gas pedal is hit really hard. So maybe it's not that bad yet?

I just priced the short block replacement,(part number 11400-22061 ) which is supposed to have the redesigned facelift pistons. Here it costs about 3900 Euros! Not cheap. More than half the price I'm paying for the whole car and this is without installation. The next cheaper car is 4K more expensive and there is no guarantee that doesn't have problems. Although it's in a better color and slightly higher mileage at 5000 more miles. If this car holds for a bit if I keep on top of the oil levels, I'm ok. But if I need to replace the engine right away, it seems I will be well over the difference of 4K for the more expensive car. But like I said, there is no guarantee the more expensive car has no problems either. Or rust!

I found used engines from the Corola Verso, Corola and Avensis. But they seem to make less power. But I guess the block etc is same and would fit? But is an used engine even worth it? Who's to say it has no problems if the 1ZZ is so problematic? But it costs less than half the price of the short block replacement.

One thing I found interesting is that the short block replacement is the same part number for a 2000 MR2 or 2004. I guess they are all new piston design and made to correct the problem.

[TroubledSoul]

ZackM said:

Thanks. I saw on a US MR2 spyder forum the recommendation to buy this: https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/toyota-...

Seems to be the new and improved facelift design, which is better. But I'm not sure this is just the original Toyota part of if that site makes a kit out of it, adding other bits to make it work. But apparently buying this block you could use all the rest of your original pre-facelift engine and end up with the better facelift piston design. Have your heard of this option?

I googled the Toyota part number 11400-22122 listed on the site and it's available from other sources. But like I said, I can't say if it will come with everything the monkywrenchracing comes with. Because if it does, and I can indeed buy this and use the rest of the original engine, I could potentially order it from my local Toyota dealer.

Pointless. Just buy a used 2nd hand engine from after 2003 for a few hundred quid. You can get the engine out in an afternoon fairly easily if you have a hoist.

Of course, if it did go bang you could put a 2ZZ in....

Word of warning with Monkey Wrench; they seem to charge an absolute fortune for shipping anything to the UK...

[ZackM]

TroubledSoul said:

ZackM said:

Thanks. I saw on a US MR2 spyder forum the recommendation to buy this: https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/toyota-...

Seems to be the new and improved facelift design, which is better. But I'm not sure this is just the original Toyota part of if that site makes a kit out of it, adding other bits to make it work. But apparently buying this block you could use all the rest of your original pre-facelift engine and end up with the better facelift piston design. Have your heard of this option?

I googled the Toyota part number 11400-22122 listed on the site and it's available from other sources. But like I said, I can't say if it will come with everything the monkywrenchracing comes with. Because if it does, and I can indeed buy this and use the rest of the original engine, I could potentially order it from my local Toyota dealer.

Pointless. Just buy a used 2nd hand engine from after 2003 for a few hundred quid. You can get the engine out in an afternoon fairly easily if you have a hoist.

Of course, if it did go bang you could put a 2ZZ in....

Word of warning with Monkey Wrench; they seem to charge an absolute fortune for shipping anything to the UK...

Thanks. Like I said, around here a swap is illegal. Otherwise I would drop a 2ZZ.

I couldn't find any used facelift MR2 engines here. I did find Corola and Avensis though. Can those be made to work? I guess the facelift MR2 must be very rare in LHD. I've been living in Europe.

As for getting the engine out myself. Never did that. Not sure it's something I would want to do.

Edited by ZackM on Monday 24th April 10:35

[ucb]

https://www.mr2roc.org
Should work now

[ZackM]

ucb said:

https://www.mr2roc.org
Should work now

Thanks. I think I tried to sign up twice. They say they had to approve and I would get an email and I never did.

[bearman68]

If your worried about using an Avensis engine - don't be. It works a treat. I have a 2006 engine in a 2000 car. It's fine. It's the bloody pre cats that are troublesome. Mine have been out for some time.

[Shifter1]

bearman68 said:

If your worried about using an Avensis engine - don't be. It works a treat. I have a 2006 engine in a 2000 car. It's fine. It's the bloody pre cats that are troublesome. Mine have been out for some time.

But the power is different right? So there are some differences. You use only the block etc from the Avensis and the rest from the MR2 fits fine?

[ZackM]

Shifter1 said:

bearman68 said:

If your worried about using an Avensis engine - don't be. It works a treat. I have a 2006 engine in a 2000 car. It's fine. It's the bloody pre cats that are troublesome. Mine have been out for some time.

But the power is different right? So there are some differences. You use only the block etc from the Avensis and the rest from the MR2 fits fine?

Yes, I'm wondering the same. MR2 makes more power.