Discussion
RayDonovan said:
I'm in a similar position.
As someone else mentioned, there's loads coming off lease in 2025 which I'd expect to depress prices further.
I don't think a £30k car now is poor value (especially when you tot up the savings across running costs).
Well 2025 you also have the Juniper Model Y refresh, whatever that ends up being. So long as the BIK is low there will always be a high degree of fleet/lease use.As someone else mentioned, there's loads coming off lease in 2025 which I'd expect to depress prices further.
I don't think a £30k car now is poor value (especially when you tot up the savings across running costs).
The cost saving covers even the cost of a loan to bridge it, even with relatively high rates. Tempting indeed.
James-gbg1e said:
RayDonovan said:
I'm in a similar position.
As someone else mentioned, there's loads coming off lease in 2025 which I'd expect to depress prices further.
I don't think a £30k car now is poor value (especially when you tot up the savings across running costs).
Well 2025 you also have the Juniper Model Y refresh, whatever that ends up being. So long as the BIK is low there will always be a high degree of fleet/lease use.As someone else mentioned, there's loads coming off lease in 2025 which I'd expect to depress prices further.
I don't think a £30k car now is poor value (especially when you tot up the savings across running costs).
The cost saving covers even the cost of a loan to bridge it, even with relatively high rates. Tempting indeed.
Mine will be funded with a cash allowance from work.
What I will say is that the lower end of the MY market doesn't appear to be moving that quickly (£30k). Given it's the entry point into this model, I'm surprised.
James-gbg1e said:
sjg said:
The main depreciation worry is that very few available secondhand now is holding prices up but it’s a big seller and there will be loads coming off lease in the next year or two. The early ones are meant to be harder ride and no load cover.
There’s still a good contract hire offer and now 0% on PCP and HP for new so worth comparing to that.
The Tesla finance offers (£399 with 4k down or whatever it is) isn't attractive to me. If I went down the new route my company have a salary sacrifice scheme with Tusker, I can get a LR model for something like £560pm which is no deposit and includes insurance, tyres, tax and maintenance etcThere’s still a good contract hire offer and now 0% on PCP and HP for new so worth comparing to that.
But, truth be told I'd rather sell my C43 for 20k ish, put 10k in and own an in warranty car that reasonably over the 4-5 years I'd plan to keep it won't cost me anything more than tyres.
Buying outright will probably still cost you £10k in depreciation and £5k in insurance with the potential for a big bill if you get unlucky with a battery or motor vs. £15-20k for 3/4 years of salary sacrifice in a RWD (and £30k invested producing maybe £5k-10k over 3/4 years) with guaranteed no additional expenses....it's not as far apart as you might imagine.
If you're looking to make a change purely for financial reasons then the C43 will probably depreciate less than a new or used MY.
The model Y is fantastic but both cars are different animals. So make sure your happy with the MY for any potential savings.
I cant see 22 MY being obsolete in 5-6 years. A 5 year old Tesla is similar in tech and performance to a new one.
The model Y is fantastic but both cars are different animals. So make sure your happy with the MY for any potential savings.
I cant see 22 MY being obsolete in 5-6 years. A 5 year old Tesla is similar in tech and performance to a new one.
Boring efficiency post - but currently getting almost 5m/kWh out of our long range. Over 170 miles since we last charged and still not used half the battery. Admittedly this is not all 70mph runs - it's a mix of motorway, A roads and school runs, and the motorway efficiency has been helped by some 50 mph road works zones, but still remarkable for such a big car. 250wh/m is the average since December which is more representative of faster speeds, but still...! 
Mouse Rat said:
If you're looking to make a change purely for financial reasons then the C43 will probably depreciate less than a new or used MY.
The model Y is fantastic but both cars are different animals. So make sure your happy with the MY for any potential savings.
I cant see 22 MY being obsolete in 5-6 years. A 5 year old Tesla is similar in tech and performance to a new one.
Tesla change the media control unit processors and screen about every 4 years, a 2022 MY got the current Ryzen but I suspect that will be updated in 1-2 years, the M3 Highland has a newer brighter screen. Autopilot hardware also changes every 3 years, a 2022 MY is already out of date and there’s another generation expected next year.The model Y is fantastic but both cars are different animals. So make sure your happy with the MY for any potential savings.
I cant see 22 MY being obsolete in 5-6 years. A 5 year old Tesla is similar in tech and performance to a new one.
Performance wise, I suspect the battery and motors won’t change much, and if the M3 highland is to go by tt might even get worse on future models
Heat pumps were added 4 years ago which made a significant improvement in efficiency
Obviously the cars will still be driveable but new features are often hardware dependent, we’ve seen dashcam and sentry mode, one foot driving, and the latest graphics all only on the later cars at the time of release. A lot has changed in the last 5 years in the tech space of the car, even if the batteries and motors have been largely unchanged for years except the odd iteration like the Plaid motors and the highland rear motor. The MS and MX still use the same battery cells they came out with in 2016.
Edited by Gone fishing on Thursday 18th July 08:49
RayDonovan said:
I'm in a similar position.
As someone else mentioned, there's loads coming off lease in 2025 which I'd expect to depress prices further.
I don't think a £30k car now is poor value (especially when you tot up the savings across running costs).
I think this is when my V6 Touareg gets sold.As someone else mentioned, there's loads coming off lease in 2025 which I'd expect to depress prices further.
I don't think a £30k car now is poor value (especially when you tot up the savings across running costs).
A Y would join our M3
Grapevine226 said:
Boring efficiency post - but currently getting almost 5m/kWh out of our long range. Over 170 miles since we last charged and still not used half the battery. Admittedly this is not all 70mph runs - it's a mix of motorway, A roads and school runs, and the motorway efficiency has been helped by some 50 mph road works zones, but still remarkable for such a big car. 250wh/m is the average since December which is more representative of faster speeds, but still...! 
Very good really, I like the 2010 liter capacity hatch area.
Its enormous.
Grapevine226 said:
Boring efficiency post - but currently getting almost 5m/kWh out of our long range. Over 170 miles since we last charged and still not used half the battery. Admittedly this is not all 70mph runs - it's a mix of motorway, A roads and school runs, and the motorway efficiency has been helped by some 50 mph road works zones, but still remarkable for such a big car. 250wh/m is the average since December which is more representative of faster speeds, but still...! 
I always thought that with "fuel" being so cheap, I'd drive it like I stole it everywhere, but instead I find myself watching the Wh/m figure to see what I can get it down to 
My RWD is at 255Wh/m over 11k miles. Most local-ish journeys right now seem to be between 180-220 with the warmer weather

Hello. I'll be taking the White Whale to France in a few weeks time.
Is it clever enough to detect location and make the necessary headlight adjustments (it has matrix lights), or do I need stickers?
Any other tips for taking it abroad, please (e.g. premium connectivity needed for European maps, or not)?
Is it clever enough to detect location and make the necessary headlight adjustments (it has matrix lights), or do I need stickers?
Any other tips for taking it abroad, please (e.g. premium connectivity needed for European maps, or not)?
Still Mulling said:
Hello. I'll be taking the White Whale to France in a few weeks time.
Is it clever enough to detect location and make the necessary headlight adjustments (it has matrix lights), or do I need stickers?
Any other tips for taking it abroad, please (e.g. premium connectivity needed for European maps, or not)?
You don’t need to worry about the car when abroad, it sorts everything out for you. The sat nav and connectivity will work fine although you may find it takes a short while (3-4 miles) to work out where you are so I’d work out where you’re heading as soon as you get to the port/off the train just in case. Is it clever enough to detect location and make the necessary headlight adjustments (it has matrix lights), or do I need stickers?
Any other tips for taking it abroad, please (e.g. premium connectivity needed for European maps, or not)?
There are various regulations across Europe for all cars and I picked up a £3 car bulb pack even though not one of them would work in the car, just in case I got stopped. Hiigh box jackets in the car for everyone is another one and not a stupid idea anyway. if you’re in France a lot then it may be worth getting the crit’air sticker for a few euro.
Supercharging just works as well.
Still Mulling said:
Any other tips for taking it abroad, please (e.g. premium connectivity needed for European maps, or not)?
Despite having driven across France every year for 40 years or so, I still like to put a little visible reminder to drive on the right! It's very easy, once you're off the motorways, to forget... pulling out of a parking spot (for example). A small arrow on the screen, or something to remind you, is worth doing.NDA said:
Despite having driven across France every year for 40 years or so, I still like to put a little visible reminder to drive on the right! It's very easy, once you're off the motorways, to forget... pulling out of a parking spot (for example). A small arrow on the screen, or something to remind you, is worth doing.
Nice, thanks NDA. NDA said:
Despite having driven across France every year for 40 years or so, I still like to put a little visible reminder to drive on the right! It's very easy, once you're off the motorways, to forget... pulling out of a parking spot (for example). A small arrow on the screen, or something to remind you, is worth doing.

It gets confusing when there's no-one around.
I remember on top gear with their "silly gifts from the petrol station" segment, they had something that plugged into the 12v socket, as you turn on the ignition it audibly said "remember to drive on the left". They were laughing with it of course, but it did exactly what you said.
Had a rental/hire car last week - a Nissan Rogue. Decently torquey 3-cyl turbo motor, but between turbo lag, the CVT, and wonky throttle mapping, it was very tough to make smooth progress, especially in stop and go driving.
What a contrast to the Model Ys I’ve also rented.
Sure, the Nissan rode smoother but there’s no scenario in which I wouldn’t prefer the Tesla.
What a contrast to the Model Ys I’ve also rented.
Sure, the Nissan rode smoother but there’s no scenario in which I wouldn’t prefer the Tesla.
Anyone else having issues with their MY rear hatch not fully closing / latching with the soft close? Only happens on one side, the Nearside.
Its being doing it for ages and resolved by either (a) light push on the nearside quarter of the boot, or (b) if in the car and have not realised and the boing boing is setting off, a pot hole / cub jump enough to tap it down
Noticed also that it not powering to full height, stopping maybe 2 inches before full stroke.
Just needs callibrating? or something else? (no crash damage etc )
Whilst the obvious answer is 'Go to Service' - it is miles away and a ballache -
Its being doing it for ages and resolved by either (a) light push on the nearside quarter of the boot, or (b) if in the car and have not realised and the boing boing is setting off, a pot hole / cub jump enough to tap it down

Noticed also that it not powering to full height, stopping maybe 2 inches before full stroke.
Just needs callibrating? or something else? (no crash damage etc )
Whilst the obvious answer is 'Go to Service' - it is miles away and a ballache -
PushedDover said:
Anyone else having issues with their MY rear hatch not fully closing / latching with the soft close? Only happens on one side, the Nearside.
Its being doing it for ages and resolved by either (a) light push on the nearside quarter of the boot, or (b) if in the car and have not realised and the boing boing is setting off, a pot hole / cub jump enough to tap it down
Noticed also that it not powering to full height, stopping maybe 2 inches before full stroke.
Just needs callibrating? or something else? (no crash damage etc )
Whilst the obvious answer is 'Go to Service' - it is miles away and a ballache -
I would book it in anyway and chances are a Ranger will come out to see you. If not, then just cancel appointment and rebook at your convenience.Its being doing it for ages and resolved by either (a) light push on the nearside quarter of the boot, or (b) if in the car and have not realised and the boing boing is setting off, a pot hole / cub jump enough to tap it down

Noticed also that it not powering to full height, stopping maybe 2 inches before full stroke.
Just needs callibrating? or something else? (no crash damage etc )
Whilst the obvious answer is 'Go to Service' - it is miles away and a ballache -
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