Discussion
Car is currently "out of the box" spec. Going in tomorrow for some warrenty work so I may have the "track" pads fitted and possibly the brake mods as well.
Then just looking at some more "track" orientated tyres. Was at the Gold track driving Donington day and almost everyone in the top group was running either full slicks or "cup type" tyres. Noble still held it's own though! Coming down the back straight at 130 with the brake warning light coming on wasn't good though!
Then just looking at some more "track" orientated tyres. Was at the Gold track driving Donington day and almost everyone in the top group was running either full slicks or "cup type" tyres. Noble still held it's own though! Coming down the back straight at 130 with the brake warning light coming on wasn't good though!
Avon ZZR's seem to be very, very good but very soft so I'm not convinced they will last long on road (see Paul Cundys report in the mailing list archives), the Yokos also sound like they improve grip levels massively (not to the levels of the Avons from what I've heard) and I think they'll last longer as they are harder than the Avons (see Kevin Jones post on the nobleownersclub forum - ask Jools for access if you don't yet have it)
If the break fluid level warning light is coming on, could be caused by the pads wearing, the less pad, the more the break calliper pistons need to travel, means use more fluid.
Also sounds about right to use a set of pads in 2.5 to 3 k miles if you really push hard and a track day to boot.
I believe the only difference between track day pads and road pads is the way they are made, i.e., lots of heat applied to track day pads to get rid of the gasses, this then eliminates a lot of the break fade.
Only a novice so please, no one shout at me if the above is incorrect.
Also sounds about right to use a set of pads in 2.5 to 3 k miles if you really push hard and a track day to boot.
I believe the only difference between track day pads and road pads is the way they are made, i.e., lots of heat applied to track day pads to get rid of the gasses, this then eliminates a lot of the break fade.
Only a novice so please, no one shout at me if the above is incorrect.
Warning light was coming on every time the brake pedal was pressed. Checked fluid and pads, fluid seemed ok but pads were very warn. Luckily I'd already booked the car in for tomorrow for some warrenty work.....will get them to address the issue and fit some other pads/fluid etc.
It's not until you get these things onto the track that you really get to appreciate the skill/time put into making it handle/flow as well as it does. The car simply spits out everything you throw at it and just asks for more!
It's not until you get these things onto the track that you really get to appreciate the skill/time put into making it handle/flow as well as it does. The car simply spits out everything you throw at it and just asks for more!
After extensive testing, we have selected Pirelli P-Zero Corsas (the race-orientated ones) for the M400. However, this does have different dampers and spring settings, which will also affect the dynamics of the car.
The ZZR's are great in many respects (sidewall stiffness and steering feel) but fall way behind the Corsas when it comes to absolute grip.
I still rate the SO-3s on the standard car. Bags of feel in the dry, and cannot be beaten in the wet by anything that I've tried.
The ZZR's are great in many respects (sidewall stiffness and steering feel) but fall way behind the Corsas when it comes to absolute grip.
I still rate the SO-3s on the standard car. Bags of feel in the dry, and cannot be beaten in the wet by anything that I've tried.
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