fitting uprated fuel pump
Discussion
ANY ADVICE ??? Was hopein the garage thats fitting the roush exhaust for me where going to fit it for me but just picked the car up and they havnt had time to do. I have got a remap booked for tuesday so really got to get it in. I got the pump and wiring etc surely its not that difficult to fit is it ???
noble jez said:
Trevor is doing it for me on tuesday after hes finished a full days work at Roush so sure he wont want to be messing around with my fuel pump for half the night
ask very nicely, he might be able to sort something out, not a lot of point putting it on the rollers with the old pump still on it.NobleJez, it really isn't a big job.
Take the nearside wheel off, and unscrew/remove the wheel arch (only 6 screws) and there is the fuel pump.
A couple of cable ties are all that hold it in place. When you take off the fuel in hose, have a bucket ready. Point the hose up as soon as it's free or you'll have a petrol bath. It's worth having next to no fuel in the car before you start.
Disconnect the fuel pump wires. These two wires are used to switch the new supplied relay. There are two new cables from the relay down to the fuel pump. Fit this relay somewhere local. Mine is attached to one of the chassis members above the pump.
reattach the two hoses to the new pump, cable tie in place. Now the tricky bit.
You will need to get under the car and run a supply using the cable supplied, from the battery to the relay. It has an inline fuse.
A few things to concider.
The new pump is noisy. It cavitates. I have reduced this on mine by mounting it at about 30degs with the exit higher than incoming fuel.
I have also filled the arch with insulating/lagging to reduce noise and put a louvered hole about 150mm sq in the wheel arch to help cooling.
These can all be done later after your mapping.
You will find that the cooler the pump, the quieter it is.
If you know what you are looking at, it's an hours work. Maybe 2 if your a bit green.
Take the nearside wheel off, and unscrew/remove the wheel arch (only 6 screws) and there is the fuel pump.
A couple of cable ties are all that hold it in place. When you take off the fuel in hose, have a bucket ready. Point the hose up as soon as it's free or you'll have a petrol bath. It's worth having next to no fuel in the car before you start.
Disconnect the fuel pump wires. These two wires are used to switch the new supplied relay. There are two new cables from the relay down to the fuel pump. Fit this relay somewhere local. Mine is attached to one of the chassis members above the pump.
reattach the two hoses to the new pump, cable tie in place. Now the tricky bit.
You will need to get under the car and run a supply using the cable supplied, from the battery to the relay. It has an inline fuse.
A few things to concider.
The new pump is noisy. It cavitates. I have reduced this on mine by mounting it at about 30degs with the exit higher than incoming fuel.
I have also filled the arch with insulating/lagging to reduce noise and put a louvered hole about 150mm sq in the wheel arch to help cooling.
These can all be done later after your mapping.
You will find that the cooler the pump, the quieter it is.
If you know what you are looking at, it's an hours work. Maybe 2 if your a bit green.
Edited by MadMacMcMad on Sunday 29th June 10:17
MadMacMcMad said:
It cavitates. I have reduced this on mine by mounting it at about 30degs with the exit higher than incoming fuel.
I thought cavitation was more to do with fuel temp., supply line size, supply line pressure etc, so why does changing the angle of the pump make any difference??
Yeah right 
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